. 



V i/> 









V 






** v ^ 


















,0 0. 












^ , ^ 



V 5 ^ 



- 



8 I \ _<N 






o X 


















A* </> 












,0o 



<-> 












^ ^ -V :l ''>'\ 




^ ^ :: \.%fe ; /' 











v^ <t 



.& 



























& ^ 



- 




c c 













l* v ^ 



* v 



•'■' 



*y ^ 









,v ^ 







THE 



NEW SYSTEM 

OF 

EDUCATING HORSES; 



INCLUDING INSTRUCTIONS ON 



FEEDING, WATERING, STABLING, SHOEING, ETC. 

WITH 

TREATMENT FOR DISEASES. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



INCLUDING MANY VALUABLE RECIPES 



NOT BEFORE PUBLISHED. 



Author of the New System. 



BY D MA ONER 



TWELFTH EDITION ; RE-WRITTEN, WITH NEW ILLUSTRATIONS. 



' CO A// 






BOSTON: 
FRANKLIN PRESS : RAND, AVERY, & CO. 

1877. 

It 



r -T2v^7 



9 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1877, 
By D. MAGNER, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



Special Notice. — If you want a copy of this book, or wish to 
inquire about other business, address 

D. MAGNER, 

Care Rand, Avery, & Co., 

117 Franklin Street, Boston, Mass. 

I make this my mail point, and all mail sent here for me will be 

forwarded to me every week or two. If you fail to get a reply in two 

or three weeks, write again. I am professionally engaged in the 

country, and the letter may be lost or delayed in forwarding. 

D. MAGNER. 



en 
w 

OS 

r— 
x. 

UJ 

<: 
cc 

< 
S5 




PEEFACE. 



BY REV. W. H. H. MURRAY. 



There are eleven million horses in the United States, 
and not one man in a million who knows how to educate 
them to the highest degree of usefulness. We say educate; 
for the horse is an animal of high and spirited organiza- 
tion, endowed by his Creator with capabilities and faculties 
which sufficiently resemble man's to come under the same 
general law of education and government. Primarily, the 
word educate means to lead out or lead up; and it is by this 
process of leading out and leading up a child's faculties 
that the child becomes a useful man, and it is by a like 
process that a colt becomes a useful horse. Now teachers, 
like poets, are born, not made. Only a few are gifted to 
see into and see through any form of highly organized 
life, discern its capacities, note the interior tendencies 
which produce habits, and discover the method of develop- 
ing the innate forces until they reach their noblest ex- 
pression, and then apply the true and sufficient guidance 
and government. The few who have this gift are teachers 
indeed, and next to the mothers of the world deserve the 
world's applause, as foremost among its benefactors. 

Next to child training and government comes horse 
training and government ; and which is the least under- 
stood it were hard to say. Boys and colts, so much alike 
in friskiness and stubbornness, both are misunderstood 



VI PREFACE. 

and abused in equal ratio. The boys are shaken and 
whipped, and colts are yanked, kicked, and pounded. 
That high-spirited or slow-witted boys become good men, 
and high-spirited or dull colts make serviceable horses, I 
conceive is due to the grace of God more than to man's 
agency, — that fine grace, I mean, spread abroad through 
and existing in all his creatures, which operates in re- 
generating continually, making the good better, and pre- 
venting those whose circumstances forbid their becoming 
good from becoming absolutely bad. 

The author of this little book is known to me as one of 
the gifted ones of the earth, because he is gifted to 
discern the nature of animals, and educate them for man's 
service. The possession of this gift suggested his mission, 
and well has he followed it, and by it been educated him- 
self to a degree rarely, if ever, attained by man before. 
I doubt if there be on the globe his equal in knowledge 
as to the best method of training horses. Through this 
volume he seeks to give the public the benefit of his 
experience. I bespeak for it the careful perusal of the 
curious and of those especially whose judgment and heart 
alike prompt them to seek for and promulgate knowledge, 
which, being popularized, would make the people more 
humane and horses more serviceable. 

W. H. H. Murray, 

Murray's Stock Farm, Guilford, Conn. 



PRELIMINARY HINTS. 



GENERAL CONDITIONS AND PRINCIPLES. 

I have explained and illustrated the principles of my 
treatment before the class. I would here call your atten- 
tion to conditions which underlie success in the applica- 
tion of those principles. 

Horses are not all alike. In size, intelligence, and dis- 
position, they show great extremes of character. The 
horse has also a certain way of reasoning : he is moved to 
be bad or good by the impressions made upon his nervous 
system, and the side of the intelligence acted upon, and 
the intensity or not of the impressions. If I can, by an 
impression of only a few moments, so excite a horse that I 
can spoil him, and form a habit which has a controlling 
influence for life in fixing the character, it is evident the 
true key of success in either preventing or breaking up 
such an impression or habit, is to make a stronger impres- 
sion upon the opposite side of the nervous system in a 
negative manner ; simply holding and enlarging upon that 
advantage, until it becomes the primary and controlling 
impression upon the reason of the animal. To make this 
idea clearer, I would add that all animal functions and 
physical manifestations are of a positive and negative char- 
acter. Through these manifestations we have the charac- 
ter according to the influence brought to bear upon it ; for 
example, hate is the inverse action of love, and love is the 
inverse action of hate. A lady is sitting in a car holding a 
child she loves ; a rough man comes in, and tramples upon 
the infant ; the woman's detestation of the man will be 
exactly in proportion to the love she bears the child. 
The most deadly hatreds are those excited from the 
intimacy and confidence of family and social relations, 
as proved by experience. Every organ of feeling can 



2 GENERAL CONDITIONS AND PRINCIPLES. 

be acted upon in both ways. Now, in breaking a bad horse 
I simply act inversely to a previously deranged organism. 
In breaking the colt, I aim first to overcome all inclina- 
tion to resist any demands made upon him; second, to 
overcome all impressions of fear ; third, when a bad char- 
acter or habit is formed, to counteract that impression, not 
only directly but as quickly as possible. These conditions 
I have shown my principles accomplish in the most perfect 
manner. Here we are compelled to view the various rela- 
tions of adaptation to our wants in the lower animals in 
general, as well as the natural conditions of our supremacy 
to them, — that of superior intelligence ; because man has 




Fiery, excitable horse, of much courage. 

the power to see and understand more than any or all of 
them, and thereby see how to teach and control them for 
use, — in a higher sense having all the functions of this 
variety of animal nature blended in himself. In under- 
standing his own nature, he is able to see and understand 
each of theirs ; and, to get a correct conception of principles 
which should govern in their subjection, we must see by 
what principle can the corresponding functions in our 
nature be influenced and controlled most easily. Here, 
then, we are naturally brought to the study of physiologi- 
cal laws or conditions, as manifested in the head, body, 
and disposition, showing natural divisions. The camel, 



ADAPTATION FOR SPECIAL WANTS. 3 

gazelle, goat, tender, sensitive, and docile ; the hog, bear, 
and mule, the sulky and positive ; the cat or feline, that 
becomes reckless and aggressive by excitement. 

ADAPTATION FOR SPECIAL WANTS. 

I would here call attention to the wonderful adaptation 

OF THE VARIOUS CLASSES of the DOMESTIC ANIMALS to the 

wants and requirements of the people in different sections 
and locations of the world among whom we find them. In 
the extreme north, where no other domestic animal could 
live, we find a dog of peculiar nature, adapted to the wants 
of the Esquimaux, as a beast of burden, fisherman, hunter, 
&c, and subsisting on the scantiest fare of fish. A little far- 
ther south, the Laplanders have the reindeer, which not 
only lives and thrives with ease on the scanty fare of the 
moss peculiar to that region, but supplies the people with 
subsistence in the way of milk, butter, and cheese. He 
travels with ease and rapidity long distances, drawing a 
heavy sledge over the frozen regions, easily guided and 
controlled by the Laplander as he sits behind. The skin 
makes the best of clothing, and is fabricated into various 
necessary uses ; while the flesh is indispensable for food. 
The Peruvians have the llama, or alpaca, which, accus- 
tomed to climb the mountains, carries heavy burdens over 
the Andes, and furnishes them with milk for their children 
and wool for their clothing, as well as flesh for food. The 
people of the desert have the camel or dromedary for 
crossing the arid, sandy plains : not only will he carry a 
heavy burden patiently, but carries within himself a sup- 
ply of water to last him for a week. So, as a servant, the 
horse, as the most valuable of all the domestic animals, is 
singularly well adapted, by the modifications of his structure 
and disposition, for the various wants of man. For quick, 
active exertion, we have the lithe, firm, enduring racer, 
capable of running with the fleetness of the wind. For 
ploughing, and drawing heavy loads, large size, square 
shoulders, patient, gentle disposition, willing to exert him- 
self to the utmost ; but in a slow gait, the opposite of the 
quick, nervous, impulsive thoroughbred, with the form 
and conformation of the greyhound. The different breeds 
or families, we see, run into illimitable modifications, which 
show a wonderful adaptation for our special wants. 



4 EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 

EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OP CHARACTER. 

Physiology comprehends the whole body, — the depth of 
lung, circulation of the blood, texture of the tissues, and 
every thing down to the molecular structure of the animal. 
Physiognomy is the outside expression of different parts 
of the head, as shown in the eye, ear, nostrils, and general 
measurement of the features. Every part must correspond 
with every other part of the body, and, finally, the influence 
of the training, to arrive at a correct conclusion ; else, by 
being mere partialists, or looking only at isolated points, 
there is danger of arriving at a wrong conclusion, very 
wide of the mark. One man, for example, takes the ear 
as his standpoint, and concludes that horses having ears 
of the same shape have similar characters. Thus he con- 
cludes, that if a horse with long ears has kicked, and 
broken a wagon, you had better look out for every horse 
with long ears, because they will do the same. Another 
studies the eye, and judges all horses by that organ ; 
another, the nostrils ; others, the breadth and size between 
the ears, &c. In studying horses, it is not only necessary 
to study the head as an index to their characters, but we 
must examine every part of them, as every part of the 
body bears the mark and impress of the character. 

We speak of certain temperaments. By this we mean, 

that, in every horse, certain 
traits of character, certain 
qualities of intelligence and 
body, predominate. We 
have three distinct tempera- 
ments, — Lymphatic, San- 
guine, and Nervous. We 
might claim several other 
divisions ; but it would serve 
only to confuse the mind, 
without giving any additional 
clearness. We do not often 
find either of the tempera- 



ments existing alone, but 
usually combined to a greater 
(No.i.) An intelligent, gentle disposi- or less degree in the same 

tion. Is quick to learn, not nervous • , rr»i c *i 

or irritable, a natural pet. animal. The most perfectly- 




EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 




balanced characters are when the three temperaments exist 
in equal proportions. 

The Lymphatic Tempera- 
ment, or class, is characterized 
by large bones and muscles, 
small brain, coarse grain and 
expression, with slow, heavy 
movements. There is more 
strength than action, or there 
is not spirit enough, except- 
ing for a short time after rest 
and idleness. An unbroken 
colt of this temperament may 
act sulky and awkward, if 
maddened and confused, he 
will lop his ears, and act like a 
mule or cow. However bad 
such a colt may act at first, 
he will, with a little time and ( N °-. 

disposition, not so active and spir- 
ited as No. 1; will bear a great deal 
of abuse, yet quite positive when 
excited. 

patience, work easily and 
safely ; for, as soon as he 
learns to obey the bit readily, 
all that is necessary to do is 
to put him in harness by the 
side of a gentle horse, and he 
will work without trouble. It 
is a trifling matter to make 
such a colt gentle; but it is 
sometimes a serious thing to 
make him do any thing if 
(No. 3.) starte, one of Mr. Robert warmed up or maddened. He 

Bonner's famous trotters. This rnav p-trpri tVirnwhimc^lf rl™*™ 

head was sketched from life by Mr. maV even ^rOW Uimselt down, 

Frank Beard, for tbe writer, and is without Caring to get UD ; but, 

intended to represent the finest i *• j n • j • • 

type of equine character. Avery when his dull mind IS given 

intelligent, fine-grained nature ; time to act, he will WOrk like 

perfectly gentle and manageable, . ' . _,, . , 

yet capable of the greatest endur- any gentle COlt. This horse 

ance and courage. makes the patientj willing 

worker. If whipped or abused, he seems to forget it, and 
is seldom a balker. 




EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 




(No. 4.) A nervous, sensitive disposition ; will not 
bear the whip or abuse. 



The Sanguine Temperament is characterized by strong 

circulation and 
great blood-making 
powers; the chest 
is deep, giving 
plenty of freedom 
for the lungs to act ; 
the digestion is 
strong, giving ca- 
pacity for making 
blood rapidly, as 
well as oxygenating 
it ; they have conse- 
quently afirm,dense 
organization, with 
quick, strong ac- 
tion, and great en- 
durance; the head 
is broad between 
the eyes; the eyes 
are large, clear, and 
very prominent, showing much white ; the lids are smooth 
and clear ; the ears are large, not very wide apart ; the nos- 
trils are large and clean cut. This temperament is quick 
to learn mischief, 
and take advantage 
of bad treatment by 
resenting and fight- 
ing the efforts to be 
subjected to con- 
trol. He will drive 
the timid man out 
of his stall, and 
show a will of his 
own that is trouble- 
some, if not care- 
fully handled. If 
the blacksmith is 
not careful in hand- 
ling his feet, he will 
be likely to get kicked across the shop. 




(No. 5.) A flighty, nervous, excitable disposition, 
easily spoiled by careless, abusive treatment. 



Pounding and 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 




kicking only make him worse. His resistance is surpris- 
ing, for he is usually only warming into his fight when an 
ordinary horse would submit from fatigue. Among this class 
we find the worst runaways, kickers, and the hardest pullers 
on the bit. As balkers, they will have their own way or 
fight, refusing to go, if even subjected to the trial of burn- 
ing straw under the body. When roused to a fight their 
eyes will blaze like 
coals of fire, the lips 
curl, the ears lop 
backward, indicat- 
ing willoi the most 
desperate order. 
Whatever he does, 
he does with the 
greatest courage. 
The colt of this 
temperament is 
quick to take ad- 
vantage of any 

Carelessness O r (No. 6.) A sulky, treacherous disposition, showing 

w^aL-n^cc in hie great endurance and courage. If a kicker, a very 

wcdKUC^ in nib bad, determined one, will contest every point; 

Control. He is but when treated skilfully and kindly, suscepti- 

liable without warn- ble of being very safe and clever ' 

ing to kick the wag- 
on and run away. 

Once excited, and 
learninghis strength, 
he is a restless, im- 
pulsive brute, liable 
to do more damage 
in a few moments 
than he is worth. 
If a stallion, that 
has become vicious, 
he will be a coura- 
geous fighter, and a 
dangerous horse to 
fool with. Dexter, 

(No. 7.) A good representative of a bad, treach- L a n t e r n , La d y 

erous disposition. Will show his temper Thome, Flora Tem- 

when sweaty and warmed up by being sulky , r^lrlcmirh MaiH 

and persevering in his resistance. P 1 ^, LrOldSmun iViaid, 




EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 




and the majority of the great trotters, including some of 

the most enduring 
roadsters, are of this 
temperament. Yet it 
is one of the seemingly- 
strange contradictions 
of nature, which I have 
noticed and found true 
in the horse, that this 
class, when managed 
skilfully and kindly, 
are among the very 
best and safest horses 
that can be found ; 
making fine, reliable 
workers, gentle even 
for a woman to use : as 
the sharpest and bright- 
est boys, when exposed 
to bad influence, be- 
come, as it were, em- 
bodiments of deviltry, 
hard to prevent or over- 
come. The Press horse 
of Gowanda, N.Y., the 
Omnibus horse of Buf- 
falo, N.Y., the Malone 
horse of Cleveland, O., Wild Pete of Petroleum Centre, 
Pa., the Wilkins horse of New York City, and the Hillman 
horse of Portland, Me., — and in fact all the most vicious 
horses that I have handled, — have been of this tempera- 
ment or a strong modification of it. The change it is 
possible to make in the character of horses of this class, 
when energetically and skilfully treated, is often really 
wonderful. Wild Pete, a nine-year-old horse, as his name 
implies, was so fearfully wild, savage, and unmanageable 
as to be utterly worthless. After an hour's treatment by 
me in a field (such a horse could not be broken in a barn), 
he was perfectly gentle, safe even for a woman or child to 
drive anywhere, and was used and let afterwards as a family 
horse. I will refer to these and other horses more particu- 
larly in another part of this chapter. 



(No. 8.) The Hettrick Horse. This head 
was sketchei by Mr. Beard for the writer 
from life, and represents the most danger- 
ous, striking, biting, kicking horse handled 
by him in New York city. It was impossi- 
ble, with safety, to touch with the hand 
any part of this' horse's body. After about 
forty minutes' treatment this horse was 
perfectly safe for any one to drive or 
handle The sketch was made five weeks 
after treatment, when he was then driven 
daily before a hack. 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 



9 



The Nervous Temperament is characterized by large 
brain, fine sensitive nerves, small stomach, and feeble diges- 
tive powers ; the head is large and well cut in every part ; 
the eyes are large, clear, 
and sensitive ; the ears 
are small and firm ; the 
head is short from eyes 
to ears ; the nostrils are 
large and thin ; there is 
no inclination to put on 
flesh ; the hair is short 
and fine. He is a spirited, 
energetic driver, does not 
bear the whip, and is 
easily made to overdo 
his strength. In a livery 
it will not do to let such 
a horse to every one, for 
a gentle, careful hand 
and voice must guide 
him. 




(No. 9.) A good sketch of an excitable dis- 
position; when cool is quick and nervous ; 
when wanned up is sulky and reckless. 
The horse that has the hang-on pluck. 




(No. 10.) A less active disposition than No. 
9, but, when frightened or excited, a very 
positive one. 



These temperaments 
balance and modify each 
other to a certain extent, 
making the characters 
in accordance with the 
temperaments predomi- 
nating. As we see a 
predominance of any 
peculiarity of feature 
and structure, we will 
see, when under ex- 
citement, a striking 
correspondence of dis- 
position and character. 
For example, a small 
round eye, set well back 
in the side of the head ; 
lids heavy, long from 
eyes to ears; ears long 
and flabby, set wide 



10 EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 



apart ; forehead narrow ; a rounding nose, small nostrils, — 

and you are reminded 
of the sulkishness and 
treachery of the hog or 
mule. Whatever he 
does, when mad, is with 
the surly recklessness 
of this disposition. 
Such a horse will give 
no warning of what he 
will do : he will stand 
as if half asleep, appa- 
rently unmindful of 
your presence. The 
ears are thrown back, 
the eyes partly closed ; 
but the expression of 
the eye, when noted, 
will reveal cause for 
danger, for what he 




(No. 11.) A horse of no spirit or action ; will 
work in gently from the start. Is a gentle, 
willing worker. 



does is with the 
quickness and 
treachery of a 
snake. If black, 
gray, or sorrel, and 
a kicker, he will be 
found exception a- 
bly bad: ordinary 
treatment by the 
old methods of 
throwing, &c, will 
be likely to make 
such a horse a sour, 
dangerous brute. 
The opposite ex- 
treme is shown by 
a large eye, set well 
out in the corner 
of the head; the 
lids thin ; the forehead broad and full, short from eye to ear \ 
short or fine-pointed ear •> narrow between ears ; large nos- 




(No. 12.) A regular barn-yard lunk-head, 
colt, will act sullen and stupid. 



As a 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 11 

trils, — and you have a horse that is sensitive and impulsive, 
will not bear the whip, naturally gentle, but will not submit 
to abuse, because sensitive and excitable, and reminds one of 
the sheep. Such a horse can be won by kindness, if treated 
carefully, to do most any thing. Now, if we put more white 
in the eye, set it farther back in the side of the head, in- 
crease the length from eye to ear, make the ears heavier 
and longer, round the ends, and set them wider apart, you 
will have the naturally sensitive disposition, easily man- 
aged when treated kindly, but, excited or maddened, will 
show an under current of the most positive will and cour- 
age in extreme, reminding of the reckless bull-dog nature. 
With a large brain, heavy ears, but rather wide apart ; eyes 
large, showing much white; eye-lids thick — a strong, 
powerful organization ; in repose, quiet, but excited, quick, 
and dangerous, a sort of wildish, snorting expression and ac- 
tion, and you are reminded of the feline or cat nature. This 
is the horse that when bad is a reckless fighter. If black, 
gray, or a dirty white, heavy, hanging under lip and large 
nostrils, you have the devil if you ever found one in horse 
form. The whole action reminds of the quick, reckless, 
treacherous cat-nature, quiet in repose, but the fury of des- 
peration when excited and warmed up. If much white in 
the eye, long inner corners, sneakish, sullen expression, you 
are sure to have a horse of the dirtiest, meanest nature, 
but one of the most wonderful endurance, — one that when 
spoiled, warned to resistance, you will have a horse that 
will resist all the ordinary methods of treatment. 

Let me here give you a little special advice, though I 
shall call special attention to this matter in another part of 
this w r ork. When you suspect having this kind of character, 
do not be alarmed, keep cool, and prepare carefully for 
every emergency. When ready, push rapidly, using one 
method of subjection after another, making every point 
thoroughly. The whole key is, to work so quickly as to 
make your point before the horse warms into a fight. This 
is one of the important points of real success, and, in par- 
ticular cases, a point you cannot safely neglect. This was 
the key to my subduing so easily Wild Pete, and all this 
class of reckless, desperate fellows. If I only have a good 
yard or field, I make short work as I can of such. Many 



12 EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 

a time have I astonished myself even by my success in the 
subjection of horses of noted vicious characters in this 
way. I have frequently been able to gain complete con- 
trol of notedly-vicious horses in less than thirty minutes, so 
they would be gentle to drive in harness, and submit to 
being handled with perfect safety and ease in less than 
twenty minutes ; a little kind treatment, and care in 
driving and handling, being all that was necessary to make 
them entirely safe afterwards for any one to use. But you 
must always handle horses that are really bad and danger- 
ous out in the field or yard, where there is good sod and 
no stones. It adds to the difficulty and danger greatly to 
be confined to a barn, as I am frequently ; and in an or- 
dinary barn, with a crowd of people around, it is very diffi- 
cult and embarrassing. The change I can make in the 
characters of colts and vicious, kicking horses, in illustrating 
my principles, seems wonderful to the class. The most suc- 
cessful horse-breakers are surprised to see how quickly and 
easily we can drive even a bad, kicking, runaway colt without 
breeching, letting the shafts come against the quarters, with- 
out showing any fear, or kicking. Of course, the great point 
is being able, as I can, to get absolute control of the nervous 
system ; which I can do with entire safety, so that I can 
neutralize and restrain the action of the will as desired. Of 
the many thousands of horses in my varied career which I 
have reformed, I will here refer to a few of the most noted. 
The Press horse, referred to in my paper, was an eight- 
year-old sorrel, with large brain, deep chest, — a very 
strong, courageous animal, — owned by Bill Press of 
Gowanda, N.Y. This horse, in breaking, became fright- 
ened, kicked, and ran away, and became one of the most 
furious, desperate beasts ever known in that country. 
Every effort having failed to break him ; and it being deemed 
impossible to do any thing with him, Press brought him to 
Buffalo, twenty-four miles distant, where I happened to be 
at the time. The horse was so wild and dangerous, that, 
as the owner said, " ten men could not either put him or 
hold him in shafts." There was a good deal of curiosity 
excited to see if such a horse could be broken. I sub- 
jected him to first and second methods of subjections, 
pushing with rapidity. In fifteen minutes I had the horse 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 13 

under complete control, hitching up and driving him 
gently. The lesson was repeated twice, the last being out 
of doors. He was sold in Buffalo, and remained perfectly- 
gentle, entirely safe for any one to drive or handle. The 
Buffalo Omnibus Company's horse was a still more re- 
markable case. This horse was ten years old, a large 
blood bay, large, clear brain, finely-balanced organization, 
but a horse of decided courage, developing a remarkably 
vicious character. It was reported that he killed one man, 
and nearly killed several others, and became so dangerous, 
that it was decided to kill him. He stood in his stall for 
three months ; and, during that time, no one had dared to 
enter it. The task of shooting him was put off from day 
to day. Mr. Ford, the agent, on my personal application, 
said I could have him, but I must take my own chances 
with him ; that he would be sure to kill me, &c, if he could 
get at me. I advertised this horse extensively at the time 
(summer of 1870), and made a large class, when I handled 
him. I subjected this horse to the second method, imme- 
diately following with the first ; and in fifteen minutes the 
horse was completely safe and gentle to handle. In a 
week he was brought back for trial, and he was perfectly 
gentle. He was used afterwards with entire safety. The 
subjection of this horse was regarded as a great feat, and 
was one of the best of my life. It was remarkable on 
account of the radical change, in so short a time, in the 
horse. The following editorial notice, and letter months 
after from the superintendent of the stable, will show the 
importance of his subjection: — 

From Buffalo (N\ Y.) " Commercial Advertiser.'* 

Horse that killed One Man, and injured Several 
Others. — We yesterday afternoon visited the amphitheatre of 
Prof. Magner, the noted horse-tamer, on Carroll Street. We found 
there a large number of our most prominent citizens and horse- 
owners ; and all manifested the greatest interest in the doings of the 
professor. 

After the exhibition with his wonderful ponies, a horse belonging 
to the Omnibus Company — a most vicious brute, with a habit of 
biting, and striking with his fore-feet, from which those in charge have 
not been able to remove the collar or bridle for over three months — 
was brought for treatment. We understand, by the way, that this 
horse (a large and powerful bay) once killed a man by biting, and 



14 EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 

trampling him under foot, and recently bit the hand almost off the 
person having him in charge. In twenty minutes, in the presence 
of between two and three hundred persons, Prof. Magner reduced this 
brute to perfect subjection, so that the groom and himself harnessed 
and unharnessed him, put their hands in his mouth, and handled him 
in every shape with perfect impunity, the formerly furious beast being 
as docile as a kitten. It was a wonderful exhibition, as we can bear 
testimony. 

Three months after the above experiment, Mr. Ford, the 
agent, wrote me the following letter : — 

Buffalo, Dec. 21, 1869. 
Prof. Magner. 

Dear Sir, — I consider myself in duty bound to write you respect- 
ing our once-vicious horse, " Man-Eater " as we called him. I have 
often said, " What a good thing it was we did not shoot him ! " He was 
taken out of the stable twice for that purpose, when I, on both occa- 
sions, interceded in his behalf. He is now one of our best horses, as 
docile as a lamb. We work him double and single, as required. All 
this was caused from your few minutes' tuition. 

Believe me, yours very truly, 

M. FORD, Agent, 
Buffalo Omnibus Company. 

In the fall of 1869 I was in the oil-regions of Pennsyl- 
vania. When in Titusville my attention was called to a 
remarkably wild horse in Petroleum Centre, owned by a 
livery-keeper, named Smawley. This horse was known by 
the name of Wild Pete, nine years old, a strong bay pony, 
weighing about nine hundred pounds. This horse was en- 
tirely wild, every effort that could be made to break him 
having failed. He could not even be harnessed, and was 
really worthless. When I went to this place Wild Pete 
was thrown upon me as a menace ; and the difficulty was, I 
had no place there where I could handle such a horse with 
success and safety. I induced Mr. Smawley to lead him up 
to Titusville, seven miles distant, where I proposed taking 
the horse in hand out on the trotting-park. After one 
hour's effort I had the hitherto Wild Pete completely gentle. 
I drove him back to the city, and that evening to Petroleum 
Centre.) and he has been since then as gentle and safe a 
carriage-horse as any in the stable, and has been, in fact, 
used as a family carriage-horse. 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 15 

In the winter of '70 and '71 I went to Cleveland, Ohio. 
I was received by the citizens with so much prejudice, that 
I could not do any thing. There was owned in the city a 
well-bred rangy, gray gelding, called the Malone Horse, 
which was known to be the most desperate, kicking runaway 
ever known in the West. Being a promising trotter, every 
effort by the best trainers to break him had failed. To drive 
this horse gently would be a great card ; but I could not get 
him for the experiment without purchasing. I got him 
by paying a large price, knowing I could break him, and sell 
him when gentle at what I paid, which I did ; and not only 
made this horse entirely gentle in less than an hour, but I 
trained him in a few hours to drive without reins, and did 
drive him the next day on the square at 1 2 o'clock, m. : 
showing this hitherto desperate horse to be one of the 
gentlest in the city ; creating thereby so great a sensation 
that I made a class of over two hundred that afternoon, and 
was the sensation of the city for several weeks, as seen by 
the following extracts from the press of the city of that 
date : — 

From the Cleveland (O.) Leader, February, 1870. 

"But the great sensation of the evening was yet to come, for which 
all were anxious, as many present knew the vicious nature of the beast 
to be subdued : in fact, there were one or two present who had had 
good cause to ever remember the great runaway and kicker known as 
the 'Malone Horse.' He is a gray gelding, perhaps sixteen hands 
high, of great beauty and strength, and a will and determination rarely 
found in a purely American breed of horses. His owner hesitated at 
the last moment to give his consent to the application of the system. 
Mr. Magner was determined to break down all opposition by a feat of 
skill, and at once resolved to buy this horse for a subject. He deter- 
mined to have a subject, asked the price of the horse, which was 
announced to be $500. ' I'll take him,' said the professor, and at once 
handed over the amount. 

" At this stage of the proceedings the excitement was intense, and 
many speculations were indulged in as to who would prove the victor, 
the man or the horse. In less than twenty minutes from the time that 
Prof. Magner laid his hands upon his subject, the horse was as 
gentle as a lamb, and as easily controlled as the most reliable family 
horse." 

From Cleveland Leader. 

"A Serious Accident. — While Prof. Magner was driving along 
the street, following after the ' Arlington ' band-wagon, people would 
call out to him, ' I say, Mister, yer holdback straps are gone ! yer'll 
have a runaway if yer don't look out.' And while crossing the rail- 



16 EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 

road track on Ontario Street, to avoid the jam of teams, &c, the rear 
wheels of his buggy were struck by a passing street-car ; the axle-tree 
so bent that one of the wheels would not revolve, and the driver, 
buggy, and all precipitated forward on to the horse, which three days 
ago a dozen men could not have held under such circumstances, but 
with no bad results further than stated. The horse did not seem 
alarmed, and bravely stood while the wreck was cleared away from 
the track, without so much as an offer to kick, fully proving the 
thoroughness of Magner's system." 



In the fall of 1873 I was in Mansfield, O. In all my 
experience I was never met with such prejudice and hos- 
tility as in this town. There was a company of business 
men there, represented by McVay, Jolly, & Co., who went 
to Kentucky, and bought of L. L. Dorsey, the noted breeder 
of Gold Dust stock, three young mares and a stallion, for the 
purpose of breeding trotting-stock. One of the mares was 
a sorrel, three years old, and so noted and dangerous a 
kicker at this age, that she was purchased at a greatly re- 
duced price in consequence. Being a fine colt, with a right 
to trot fast, every effort was made to break her. The most 
skilled horse-breakers were employed ; and when seven 
years old, when I was there, she was given up as worthless, 
and considered the meanest and most treacherous kicker in 
that country. She would squeal and kick when the barn- 
door was opened ; and it was out of the question to go into 
her stall safely, and no one attempted to do so for years. 
To have a little fun with me, and " take the starch out of 
me," as Mr. McVay afterwards stated, the owners told their 
trainer to join my class and bring the mare, not supposing 
such a mare could be broken ; and being too mean to breed 
from, she was regarded as worthless, and they did not care 
if she was abused and injured. All sorts of rigging and 
treatment had been tried upon the mare to no purpose : 
she was hampered in every possible manner, including the 
most severe whippings, through all of which she had fought 
successfully. She was of a sorrel color, seven years old, of a 
medium size, extremely strong, fine texture of body : though 
abused most fearfully, she did not show the least blemish 
or injury ; altogether she was a perfect model of great 
vitality and endurance. The eye was of medium size, 
well back in the side of the head, heavy eye-lids, forehead 



EXTREMES AND MODIFICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 17 

narrow, very long from eyes to ears, ears long, wide apart 
and thrown back and out. The nose was a little rounding, 
nostrils large, heavy under lip. She was one of the best 
types I ever saw of the cool, cunning, reckless fighter. In 
about forty minutes I had her under complete control, 
driving her in the street, to the surprise of every one, per- 
fectly gentle. McVay met me in Newark, O., about a month 

afterwards. Said he, " Magner, by G , my mare is 

broke, and is to-day the safest and best mare in Richland 
County. I use her for my family driving. Going down 
hill a while ago, with my children in with me, the breeching 
broke, letting the shafts upon her heels. She never moved 
or kicked, or offered to : the change is wonderful, and all 
the result of what you did with her." But he never said, 
" Thank you," or gave me a dollar, though I had added 
hundreds of dollars to the value of the mare. After sub- 
jecting the mare to treatment before the class, and driving 
her in the street, I ordered the trainer to treat her kindly, 
test her thoroughly, and if necessary repeat the lesson until 
he was sure of success. In any event he must treat her 
with great kindness, to take no needless chances of failure. 
He did not find it necessary to repeat the treatment, simply 
drove her a few hours daily, and the reformation was com- 
plete. 

When in New- York City Mr. Hettrick, who kept a livery 
stable, corner Thirtieth Street and Sixth Avenue, bought on 
Twenty-fourth Street a remarkably vicious Western horse, 
for a mere trifle, on account of his vicious character. This 
horse was a large, high-headed sorrel : he was so very wild 
and dangerous that I found it impossible, even when tied by 
the halter to the centre-pole of the canvas, to touch any part 
of his body. He would strike and kick as desperately as 
any wild, vicious horse from the plains. Re would snort, 
strike, and kick at any one who went near him. It was with 
great difficulty that I could get my hands upon him safely ; 
but once able to get to him, I had him under complete control 
in thirty minutes, and he was perfectly gentle afterwards to 
drive to carriage or hack. As a good type of bad-looking 
head and disposition, I give an accurate sketch of this 
horse's head, taken five weeks after being broken and used 
to a hack daily. I will refer to but one more interesting 



18 NOTED HORSES. — HILLMAN HORSE. 

case, because of recent occurrence, — the Hill man horse, of 
Portland, Me. This horse could not be handled at all. 
He would kill, if he could, any one going near him. A 
grand-son of Gen. Knox, known as one of the best trot- 
ting sires in New England, and one of the finest formed 
colts in Maine, every effort was made to break him. He 
would bite, strike, and kick ; he had the eye and expression 
of a bull-dog, and was known throughout the State as the 
most dangerous horse ever known in New England or in 
this country. He stood for nine months in a building, 
without any hope of ever being broken, unless I could do 
it. Yet I was able to bring this horse under the most 
complete control in less than thirty minutes, so that others 
could handle and drive him afterwards with entire safety. 



UOTED HORSES.— HILLMAN HORSE. 

The following from the Portland " Argus " and " Press," of 
that date, will give a good idea of the desperate character 
of this horse, the importance of the feat of his subjection, 
and the success of the experiment. 

Prom the Portland (Me.) Argus, Friday, June 23, 1876. 

Yesterday morning Prof. D. Magner, whose skill as a tamer of vicious 
horses is almost proverbial, accompanied by a number of well-known 
gentlemen, left this city and rode out to the residence of Rev. A. P. 
Hillman, to try his skill at subduing Mr. Hillman's stallion "Jet," 
which has the reputation of being the most uncontrollable and the 
most savage dispositioned stallion in this State. 

On arriving at Mr. Hillman's quite a number of the neighbors were 
found gathered about the stable, anxious to see the handsome but 
vicious "Jet " led forth from the box-stall in which he had been kept 
ever since last September. The stall in which " Jet " has been kept 
in close confinement for nearly nine months past, is so arranged that 
his food and water can be given him without any chance for the fierce 
brute to fix his glittering teeth into his feeder's arm or shoulder, or 
strike him with his feet. 

When Magner first entered the stall, the demon in the brute 
showed itself inthe»most striking manner by frantic efforts to seize 
him with his teeth, rushing around his narrow quarters like a caged 
tiger, while the red flash of his wild eyes would have deterred many 
strong men from approaching him. A large number of people in- 
terested in horses, including nearly every physician in the city, were 
assembled at this place, on the stallion's arrival. 

At ten o'clock, the time appointed for the trial, Prof. Magner 



EXACTING EXPERIMENTS. 19 

cleared the place of all spectators, excepting those holding tickets of 
invitation from the committee having charge. 

Of course the peculiar method, by which in a wonderfully brief 
time, the most savage stallion in the State was so completely con- 
quered that he was harnessed to a carriage and driven by the Profes- 
sor around the enclosed yard, fast or slow, as suited, as well aS 
backing, stopping instantly at the word " whoa," besides various other 
things, all proving that the demon had been, temporarily at least, 
exorcised, cannot be stated, but it was surely done. 

The savage brute, after undergoing Magner's course of treatment, 
would allow himself to be petted and caressed by any one present, 
without the least manifestations of ill temper. 

' From the Portland (Me.) Press. 

The announcement that the well-known Hillman horse was to be 
trained at the South-street stable, drew a large crowd yesterday morn- 
ing, as this horse is known to be one of the worst cases on record, 
Some few gentlemen, including representatives of the morning papers, 
took carriages, and drove out to the residence of Rev. A. P. Hillman, 
near the Reform School, to see Prof. Magner in his first attempt to 
handle the animal. In this condition " Jet " was led from the stall for 
the first time in eight months. The line of march was taken up for the 
city, a man on either side holding by the cords attached to him. All 
the residents on the way were" in waiting to see the wonderful horse 
pass ; and on reaching the city a large crowd followed the horse and 
his trainer to the stable. 

The stable was thronged on the arrival ; and after giving the horse 
a slight rest, Prof. Magner commenced upon him. We cannot give 
the method of treatment : suffice it to say, he worked on the horse just 
twenty-five minutes, when the striking, dangerous horse was as mild 
as a lamb. He was turned loose, and wandered about among the 
horsemen as though he was an old truck-horse. The trainer jumped 
upon his back, and afterwards harnessed him to a wagon, and drove 
about without the least strap to keep the wagon from striking his 
heels. 

" The rear of the procession was brought up by the recently tamed 
Hillman stallion. In all the noise and confusion, he went along as 
gentle as an old family horse." — Portland Advertiser, July 5. 

The Famous Hillman Horse in the Procession. 

"Last, but not least, was Prof. Magner, driving the Hillman stal- 
lion. This was the interesting part of the procession, considering 
that the horse which he was now driving as gently as any family horse 
was a few weeks ago considered wholly unmanageable." — Portland 
Press, July 6. 

EXACTING EXPERIMENTS. 

I could refer to a large number of remarkable cases, 
showing the power and value of my treatment, in reform- 



20 EXACTING EXPERIMENTS. 

ing and making entirely gentle, horses that had defied for 
years the greatest efforts of the best horse-breakers. It is 
a matter of almost daily occurrence, in making experiments 
before the class, to hitch up and drive in harness gently, 
in from ten to twenty minutes, horses that either never had 
been in harness, or had been so badly frightened, and 
made to kick, as to be entirely unmanageable. The average 
of such, are, in fact, so easily made gentle by my treatment, 
that we take in hand before the class, daily, several of the 
most vicious colts and horses that can be produced ; and 
without exception, make the worst of them to drive in har- 
ness without offering to kick, though the shafts strike the 
quarters freely, showing the most perfect control. It is no 
exaggeration, or egotism, to assert that such results are 
beyond all comparison the greatest of the present or any 
former age, in the art of training and reforming horses. 

I give the widest latitude for experiments ; and it is sel- 
dom a horse or colt is found of a character so vicious, that 
I am not able to control and drive him gently in from ten 
to twenty minutes. 

There is a point I would here call your attention to. It 
is that horses that have the reputation of being bad, and 
are really vicious and dangerous, are not always, by any 
means, the most difficult to break or require the most time 
and care. The most skill and the most effort will often be 
demanded in the management of cases that are not known 
to be bad or vicious. 

It is the cool, almost calculating fighter; the mare that 
seems gentle in all places but one, and then she is, perhaps, 
lightning itself in contesting the efforts ; perhaps it is the 
balker, that will resist only at one point, at all others a 
pleasant worker. While the average of these minor habits 
yield readily to treatment, — a matter, perhaps, of a few 
minutes' work, — you may find cases that will call for as 
much or more real skill and effort to break up than is ne- 
cessary to break horses regarded and known to be very bad. 
If you find one of these give-and-take, treacherous cases, 
you must make your point clear and sure ; make your fight 
quick and decisive if you can, and always in the position 
and place of resistance. 



EXPERIENCE AND CONFIDENCE. 21 

EXPERIENCE AND CONFIDENCE NOT TO BE DE- 
PENDED UPON. 

When about leaving New York, a well-known gentleman, 
a personal friend, requested that I would remain a day and 
show a horse-breaker, a man who attended all the horse- 
taming schools in that city, a naturally good fellow, but crude 
in his ideas, how to manage a trotting mare he had just 
purchased. She was high-toned, eager, courageous, and 
plucky, and had been subjected to severe treatment, but 
she would resent the drudgery of any heavy pulling or rough 
handling, and was acting badly. This man worked her, 
and insisted upon hitching her to a heavy express wagon. 
That is just what you should not do with this mare, I 
insisted, and you will only spoil her by persisting in doing 
so. I obtained a light sulky, walked her gently at first, 
then let her out on a trot, and soon could let her out as I 
pleased, under any excitement, without trouble. The mare 
only needed working up slowly and carefully, and with, 
perhaps, a few touches at the right time and place, would 
have worked in nicely ; but worked as she had been, and 
by such a man, I should regard it almost a miracle to make 
her work successfully without breaking down her constitu- 
tion, or spoiling her. 

A three-year-old thorough-bred colt, of a very high- 
strung, bad disposition, was presented in New York to be 
driven in harness. I subjected the colt to treatment, and 
soon had her in harness \ she knew nothing of the bit or 
rein. Being overworked and limited in time, I told a man 
who had been with me for years and worked well, to hitch 
up and drive this colt gently, and by all means not to 
excite her, — to take his time, work her slowly ; that on any 
account he must not excite her. But treating her as he 
would a common colt, and getting her mad, she resisted 
the most severe and abusive treatment, which he, by losing 
his temper, inflicted in his effort to drive her. The conse- 
quence was, the colt was not fit to be seen or handled for 
two weeks. The owner generously overlooked the mat- 
ter ; and when over the effects of the abuse, in twenty 
minutes I was able to drive her as I desired, gently, and 
did so successfully in the presence of her owner, without 
the least excitement or trouble. 



22 A PECULIAR CASE. 

I refer to these cases, to show that assumed experience 
is not all that is demanded. Behind all this, patient, 
sound judgment is necessary in working horses of a sensi- 
tive but courageous character. 

A PECULIAR CASE. 
In my long experience, I have had many peculiar 
phases of equine nature to deal with ; to one or two of a 
very unusual type of resistance I will here allude. In 
the winter and spring of 1868, I made a campaign in Mis- 
sissippi, at a place north of Pickens Station. I had a 
large class and only one subject, a sleepy-looking, nine- 
year-old sorrel, of medium size, half mustang and half 
thoroughbred. He worked nicely until put in harness, 
where he kicked with all the desperation of a maniac. It 
was a cool, sullen, desperate struggle : beyond all compar- 
ison the worst I ever had found. I could not drive the 
horse in the time I advertised, without his kicking, and 
offered to give each his money back, but they would not 
let me off in that way. They said, " We want you to drive 
that horse, as you advertised." I did every thing possible 
to break him, but it was all a complete failure ; he would 
kick in defiance of all I could do. I worked all day upon 
the horse, and when night came could not see that I had 
made the least headway toward success. He would kick 
in the same cool, terrible manner : when held too closely, 
he would settle down on his belly like a hog, and sulk. 
(Did not have passive treatment then, which would have 
controlled this case easily.) I did all that human skill 
could do, and it was a complete failure ; and, with the state 
of public feeling shown, I felt my life would be endangered 
if I failed to subdue the brute. The next morning I felt 
sore and tired. After breakfast I went out and found the 
horse looking and feeling as well as ever ; and, to look at 
him in the stall, he seemed as gentle as any family horse : 
his mouth only showed the effects of the struggle ; for that 
was pretty sore from the use of the breaking-bit, which I 
used then in a much less effective form than I do now. I 
put on the harness, and a gentle, sharp pull made him 
give to the bit freely. My blood was up, and I sent that 
horse back against the reach of an old lumber wagon 



A PECULIAR CASE. 23 

which happened to be near. The first the horse knew, I had 
him back between the wheels, and his hindquarters against 
the reach, which came well above the gambrels. The fel- 
low tried to kick at least fifty times ; but with the soreness 
of the mouth and the power of the bit, I was able to keep 
him so tight against the reach, that he could not kick over. 
Finding himself mastered, he gave a sort of shiver, and 
my success was complete, for he could not be made to 
kick afterwards. He was completely docile. A week 
after I drove him on the square at Carlton, thirty miles 
from there. He proved absolutely gentle and safe, and I 
was voted " all right." I did not know then, what I have 
learned since, that the point of success in subjection of 
these cold-blooded fellows is by one or two sharp lessons, 
to make them sore and sensitive, when they will work 
easily : no matter how reckless and sulky they act at 
first, when they get cool, after a sharp lesson or two, they 
will work in nicely. 

When in Buffalo, N.Y., a horse was brought in that 
would run away. He had been gentle : but, getting ex- 
cited, learned to resist all control of the mouth. Power- 
reins and bits of thje most savage character were alike 
unavailing. When warmed up, he would run against the 
bit and get away, regardless of the pulling of several men 
on the reins. Under canvas the horse submitted to the 
breaking-bit readily ; but when I took him out of doors, as 
I suspected, he was regardless of all restraint, lunging 
against the bit desperately. But having taken every ne- 
cessary precaution for safety, I commenced back again, 
getting good control on a walk. I gained little by little, 
until I could let him out on a sharp trot, and bring him 
back easily, requiring an hour's work. Next day I knew 
would be the test of deciding the contest. Never before 
did I find such savage, cool resistance ; and my only re- 
source was to take time and intensify my impression upon 
the mouth, which was my only reliable resource to make the 
horse safe. Next morning I found the horse, after warm- 
ing up, to be fearfully wilful and reckless. I forced him 
again carefully, repeating the same routine of working up 
from a walk to a fast trot and run until there was no in- 
clination to continue the contest, — finally exciting him all 



24 SULKY COLTS. 

I could, until there was no inclination to pull or resist the 
bit. This time I worked faithfully several hours to make 
my point, but was completely successful. This horse was 
of a nervous-sanguine temperament, a bright bay, medium- 
sized eyes, forehead rather narrow, long from eyes to ears, 
a good deal of white in the eye ; as a colt was gentle, 
broke in easily (so reported), trotted quite fast ; from the 
ambition and excitement of warming up in driving, pulled 
so hard as to get away, and afterwards became perfectly 
regardless of all control of the bit. Now I am able to 
make horses of this habit, with rare exceptions, entirely 
safe and gentle in from thirty minutes to an hour. The 
point was simply to hang on, and repeat. 

SULKY COLTS. 

There is another type of extreme, usually colts, I fre- 
quently find, which are apparently very bad, and which I 
hate above almost any other horse to handle before a 
class ; and yet they are always sure to work in safely and 
nicely by taking time and repeating the lesson. The colt 
that will at first act nervous and excitable, when warmed 
up will show a surly, mulish disposition, perhaps has 
learned to throw himself down. I will refer to the best 
case of the kind we had during the past year. When at a 
little point in Maine, called Exeter, in September, 1876, 
a four-year-old sorrel colt, of medium size, was brought 
forward by the owner, who proposed joining the class if I 
would handle the colt. The colt seemed very nervous; 
was led by a big rope halter. The skin was torn in sev- 
eral places on the hips and legs. When harnessed the 
colt would lunge, and throw himself over backwards : he 
would kick fearfully when an effort was made to handle 
the feet, or shoe him. Bound to shoe him at all hazards, 
they put him in an ox-frame, fastening him securely ; but 
he 'struggled so violently that it was found necessary to 
let the brute go without being shod. Both hocks were en- 
larged, showing blood spavins, from the strain and reck- 
lessness of his struggles. He would break his halter, or 
pull himself down recklessly, when hitched. The colt, in 
a word, was entirely unmanageable, and really worthless, 
having resisted every effort to break him. I described in 



SULKY COLTS. 25 

detail the exact type of the character, and how he would 
act under excitement, or not. There was no other horse 
to illustrate principles with ; and it was a matter of curi- 
osity to see if the colt would act as I predicted. There is 
no great difficulty in making colts of this nature gentle ; 
but, as they warm up, they become so sullen and reckless 
that they will not do any thing, paying no regard to the 
sharpest cut of a whip, or of other means of producing 
pain. The ears will lop out and back, like a hog's ; the 
legs are spread ; the eyes are sullen in expression ; the 
whole impulse is one of surly desperation, lunging against 
or upon any thing, refusing to be led, and throwing him- 
self down. It is never safe or prudent to handle such a 
horse before a class, as they think it is a fault of the 
treatment that the colt should act so sullen. The majority 
of people cannot see any difference in horses. They are 
expecting, any way, to see a horse give right up to treat- 
ment, and are disappointed if there is any apparent want 
of success. No matter how bad a large-brained, nervous- 
tempered colt, he will submit readily to treatment, and 
drive with entire freedom : but the cool sulkers at first 
will not do any thing ; and it would seem as if they could 
not be made to work gently, yet with a little care, when they 
get cool, they always work in safely and surely. But the 
class can never, though good horsemen, see this, and are 
liable to find fault, and expose me to great embarrassment. 
In this case, after an hour's effort, it was only with the 
greatest difficulty the colt could be made to move or drive 
in harness, and the owner was disappointed because I 
would not guarantee that he could be hitched up to a car- 
riage and driven home, and be gentle afterwards. Two 
days after this the colt was hitched up and driven gently to 
a point seventeen miles away, where I was at the time giv- 
ing an exhibition ; was driven in the crowd without breech- 
ing, entirely gentle, and proving gentle, was sold a week 
after for a good price. If a colt or horse develops any of 
these extremes of resistance, you are not by any means to 
be discouraged, or think you must fail. Go to work more 
cautiously and thoroughly : do not be in a hurry ; make 
the most of every point gained. Take your time ; for time 
you must have to get the blood cool, so that you can 



26 INSANITY. 

appeal to the intelligence, and act with success upon the 
better part of the nature ; and you must succeed. 

I never drive a horse, or advise driving one, while he is 
touchy, and liable to try to resist control. I aim to make 
the foundation first of the most perfect docility, so that if 
the breeching should break and let the wagon come 
against the quarters, or any other unusual cause of fear 
occur, to have the horse under such perfect control, that 
he will submit to command without showing fear or excite- 
ment. If I cannot do this safely after one treatment, I re- 
peat it, and test the horse until I can. This point of being 
patient, careful, and thorough, is what is wanted. When I 
took in hand the famous Malone horse of Cleveland, I 
was not satisfied to stop when the horse drove gently : 
I subjected him to the most thorough and exacting trials 
to prove his docility." It was because of this thoroughness 
of treatment, which did not in all require more than an 
hour's time, that I was able to insure his entire safety. 

At one time a passing street-car ran into my wagon, 
and crushed it against the quarters. At another, when 
trotting rapidly, one of the clips connecting the shaft to 
the axle broke. The horse stopped instantly at command, 
without showing the least inclination to kick or run away, — 
one of the most exciting trials a horse could be subjected 
to. The object should be to make the horse really safe; 
and it is the highest proof of skill to do this without ac- 
cident or failure. 

nsrsAJsriTY. 

Another point for consideration is, that the horse is 
liable to be insane, or of having the nervous system broken 
down, and that such causes of derangement are traceable 
to definite sources. To a superficial observer, all horses 
that look alike appear the same to them ; and they are sur- 
prised and vexed if they find a horse that does not seem 
to yield to the most severe and persistent treatment, espe- 
cially treatment that greatly excites the nervous system. 
There is, in the first place, a possibility of hereditary 
causes. Like produces like, is a fixed law of nature, 
from which there is no deviation. But nature may be so 
disturbed and deranged in her actions, as to prevent, if 



BE THOROUGH. 27 

not destroy life. If a stallion, though gentle, is whipped 
and made vicious, the result is likely to be seen in the 
bad disposition of his colts. If a mare subjected to a great 
shock of fear, or other marked causes of disturbing the 
action of the nervous system, the effect of it is likely to be 
strongly shown in the character of the colt, by its being 
unusually nervous and excitable. A shock of fear may be 
made so great as to cause a horse to die in his tracks. I 
could refer to a number of horses dropping dead from the 
fear of a train of cars or an engine coming upon them sud- 
denly. I would call your special attention to the points 
of fear under that head, which I would ask you to read 
carefully. 

BE THOROUGH. 

A timid man, who shows want of confidence in himself, 
is not adapted to the task of having much to do with 
vicious horses. In reality it requires not only the most 
accurate judgment, but the greatest firmness and deter- 
mination, to excel in the control of horses. If a horse is so 
bad, courageous, and determined that he beats every one, 
of course it is no easy or trifling job to break such a 
horse, and do it well, without injuring him, and one, too, 
that does not infrequently involve great danger. Suppose 
there is danger, and you fail once or twice : that is nothing 
to be discouraged at. This is the kind of trial, when you 
succeed, that proves you are better than common men. 
One of the great points of success is, you should not fail to 
understand your treatment correctly, and just how to carry 
it to a successful end. Mere power is not so much the 
point, as acting most skilfully upon the brain to win the 
full co-operation of the animal's understanding and better 
nature to your aid. At all events, you must be careful 
and patient, taking time, and repeating until you are sure 
of success. Every time you fail you will learn something ; 
and if you will persevere, as I have, guided by my instruc- 
tion, which makes success in overcoming these possible 
difficulties simple and easy, it will be your own fault if 
you are not equally successful. Candidly, whatever I 
have of skill or ability in the control of horses over oth- 
ers has been all learned by failures. I have persever- 



28 COURAGE. 

ance. I tried and kept trying, regardless of failures, 
doing as well as I could ; and in this way succeeded. 
The ability to write these pages, such as I have been able 
to make them, has been learned only by perseverance. 
This is the quality of true success. It is the quality that 
tests and determines most truly the strength of the char- 
acter, and should never be forgotten as a primary and 
necessary condition of overcoming great difficulties ; and 
the greater the difficulty, the greater and more gratifying 
the success. It will not do to be fool-hardy or venture- 
some, when danger can by a little extra time and care be 
guarded against. 

COURAGE. 

But a nervous, timid feeling, which the horse can in the 
least detect, should not be shown in the language or ac- 
tions. I would not advise taking the chance of driving 
or riding behind a horse that is nervous and dangerous, 
liable to kick, lunge ahead against the bit, and get away, 
because you do not feel afraid, and would not have any 
one think you cowardly. Think nothing about this. First, 
remember, no man, nor even several men, can hold a horse 
that has learned to take the bit and run away. The point 
is, have you sure control of the horse, should he try to 
resist you? If you have not, do not put your strength 
against his, and expose yourself to trouble and failure, as 
well as make the horse worse by the experiment. You 
must be cool, and gain yourself a sure, safe position of 
control by the proper subjective treatment. It is your 
own fault if you fail ; and if you fail it will be because 
you do not get control enough of the horse before you 
put him to this trial. I see how you are likely to be 
mixed, by asking how is it possible for you to drive any 
colt or horse, then, in fifteen or twenty minutes. That is 
not the point. I am compelled often to take next to des- 
perate chances ; and, in addition, I know almost to a cer- 
tainty, as soon as I see a horse, what he is, and what I 
can do with him in a given time ; consequently I make no 
mistakes, and succeed. Should I find a horse I could not 
safely control in that time, I do not chance the trial; 
I persist or repeat the first course, until I know I have 



GREAT VALUE OF THIS KNOWLEDGE. 29 

absolute control. A mustang, or really bad stallion, or 
a horse of a vicious mustang nature, is not prevented 
from attacking or kicking a man, because he may show 
courage. Stallions and horses of an intelligent, aggres- 
sive, wide-awake character, are very sharp in their percep- 
tions, and rely very much on the bullying plan of fighting 
back, and are easily disconcerted by a sharp, confident ex- 
pression of word or action. The point is, to trust yourself 
as far as you can do so safely. 

A short time ago a young horse was brought in for me 
to try treatment upon before the class. This horse was 
never handled or harnessed, and I saw at once he was a 
very dangerous, bad brute. I called special attention to 
his dangerous character ; yet, to a casual observer, he did 
not seem more dangerous than an ordinary unbroken colt. 
The owner, with much confidence, questioned my judg- 
ment ; said he never had any trouble with him, and could 
handle the colt safely. He was about going forward to 
put his hand upon the colt, saying, he " was not afraid of 
any horse." I said, " Hold on, sir : you do not see your 
danger. I do, and will prove it to you ; and then, if you 
think best to go near the horse, you can do so ; but I warn 
you, it will be at the hazard of your life." At the same 
moment, I touched the horse as gently and carefully as I 
could with the end of a pole, when he sprang into the air 
at the instant, kicking and striking at me in the most fear- 
ful manner, showing his extremely dangerous character. 
The man turned pale, saying he would not have believed 
it possible that the colt could be so vicious. " Why," 
said he, turning to me, " he might have killed me." After 
that I had plenty of room, and no volunteers to assist ; 
yet, in less than fifteen minutes I had the colt entirely 
gentle. If you cannot see and read the horse's intentions 
clearly, and feel that you are safe, the best way is to go 
slow, feel your way, and be thorough. 

GREAT VALUE OF THIS KNOWLEDGE. 
In accomplishing easily and with certainty an end that 
has so large and direct an influence upon the prosperity 
and happiness of all classes of society as my system 
of educating horses enables, the correct dissemination of 
it is of the greatest importance and value. 



30 GREAT VALUE OF THIS KNOWLEDGE. 

The horse is in such general use, in connection with the 
great difficulty experienced in making him docile and safe 
as a servant for the various purposes of the farm and 
family, and the many accidents caused by the use of 
horses that are in consequence unavoidably unsafe. In 
addition, the great anxiety, danger, and loss experienced 
from such causes, make a knowledge of principles by 
which all those difficulties are easily overcome and pre- 
vented, a source of the broadest humanity and value to 
all classes of society. First, it saves at least nine-tenths 
of time necessarily employed by*the old system, which is 
seen to be so defective. Second, with the great advan- 
tage of time it enables absolute security, as well as cer- 
tainty, of making the most vicious colts and horses gentle 
and obedient to control. Third, it removes all those 
causes of annoyance and danger resulting from the old 
methods of breaking horses. Fourth, it enables reforming 
easily, horses that have been given up as worthless or 
unsafe for use. Fifth, it adds largely to the value of 
horses. Sixth, it secures the greatest possible kindness 
in the education and use of horses. 

It is the work of months, and often of years, to break a 
colt, and even at that a large proportion of the best by 
nature are but little better than mere impulsive, danger- 
ous machines, ready at the least little derangement of har- 
ness or other cause of fear and excitement, to kick or run 
away. The consequence is, an unavoidable accident, the 
smashing of wagon and harness, the horse likely to be 
completely spoiled and made worthless, and the possible 
serious injury to or loss of life. 

There is nothing the farmer fears more than the task of 
breaking colts, because, while he realizes the difficulty and 
danger attending it, he has no remedy beyond that of 
being careful and patient, and the whip and club law. He 
does as well as he can, or employs some ignorant horse- 
breaker who cannot do any better. The majority of so- 
called horse-breakers, from ignorance, violate the simplest 
laws of addressing the animal's nature and reason. It is 
a struggle of the merest brute force, that results so often 
in injuring and spoiling the best colts, by nature, in break- 
ing. There is no lack of authority telling how to con- 



GREAT VALUE OF THIS KNOWLEDGE. 31 

struct a steam-engine, and run it, or make a machine by 
which grain and other farm products can be planted and 
gathered most economically and easily, — in every line 
and channel of husbandry, scientific and mechanical, there 
is no lack of the most exact rules of guidance. But in 
this of the principles and laws of educating horses, so that 
the difficulties and causes of annoyance in their manage- 
ment are removed, and there is certainty of success in 
securing their obedience and docility, there is no recog- 
nized authority or hardly a line of reliable guidance, 
because not known. 

When I advertise and assert I can control and drive, 
with but very few exceptions, any kicking, runaway colt or 
horse, in from ten to twenty minutes, and make such so 
gentle that he will not kick or resist control, though the 
shafts should strike his quarters, or attempt to run away 
though subjected to extreme causes of fear and excite- 
ment, to which but few horses that are considered well 
broke would submit, and perform other feats of control 
equally great in the subjection of vicious horses, the most 
intelligent horsemen and farmers shake their heads, and 
regard the assumption with the most positive unbelief. 
Yet I prove nothing is simpler or easier to do ; that an 
ordinary boy or man, who has a little nerve, and is patient, 
can control the worst of horses without any difficulty wor- 
thy the name. When I have good subjects to illustrate 
properly the effects of my principles, I give such convin- 
cing proofs of all this that there cannot be any question 
about it. Now, I only prove how easy it is to make 
horses of even a very vicious nature, safe and gentle, when 
treated in a sensible, reasonable manner. 

When this simple truth is opened clearly to the mind, 
then, and not till then, are the real humanity and value of 
my instruction fully appreciated. The surprise, too, is 
great, that a horse can be made docile and obedient so 
easily, quickly, and surely, without any severity that is at 
all dangerous, and that every step of success in the subjec- 
tion and control of the most vicious horses is held and 
fixed by kindness. 



32 MORAL BEARING. 

MORAL BEARING. 

In its true sense, there is no duty which appeals more 
forcibly to the better faculties of the mind, than tiis of 
the scientific education and subjection of horses. We 
have to study the principles of addressing and controlling 
the animal's reason most successfully. We are not only 
able to see the necessity and value of restraining and con- 
trolling our own bad impulses of feeling, but of being gov- 
erned by the higher faculties of reason, to win success. It 
is seen that to be hasty and passionate, to be excited by 
drink, or other causes, to whip and abuse the horse, while 
it does not show or teach any thing that is desired to be 
done, is not only a direct cause of exciting the animal's 
fear and bad nature, and thereby of being spoiled, but is a 
cause of the greatest abuse. Now, making a horse stub- 
born and unmanageable, will naturally make a man mad 
and reckless, and thereby trouble is only increased, which 
defeats success ; while, guided by right principles, and ac- 
cording to the laws of the case, we are all the time elevat- 
ing the better side, and restraining the worst side, of our 
nature. We are at once not only able to remove and over- 
come all the main causes of annoyance and failures by this 
knowledge, but it serves to bring in all ways to view most 
clearly the light of self-examination which stimulates 
thought, as well as sweetens and elevates the feelings to 
a greater exertion for success. 

Will you be patient ? Will you try to be guided by the 
principles and laws which I have shown to be so simple, 
yet so far-reaching and valuable, that have cost me so 
many years' experiment and persistent labor to learn? 
Will you bring into play the courage and will, the discrimi- 
nation and care, which is necessary and characteristic of all 
true and great success ? If you will try faithfully to bring 
out the ingenuity and strength of your nature, in doing 
this, success is sure. If you will not, you must expect to 
fail. 



THE COLT. 



The first point to consider is, what is the disposition 
and character of the colt ? Is he very young, entirely wild, 
very large, strong, and dangerous, or a wild, nervous, 
timid one ? Is the colt " way-wised " to the halter, or other- 
wise wild ? The first point with me is, what have I to 
deal with. This point considered, I go to work, taking the 
most direct and simple course of treatment. The first 
condition is safety to self ; second, safety to the colt from 
any physical injury ; third, what will the case require, to 
enable his perfect docility ? It is but a trifling matter to 
make an average unbroken colt, of a nervous, intelligent 
character, so gentle as to submit to being led by the 
halter, gentle to handle and drive with perfect safety in 
shafts, in fifteen or twenty minutes. Just as soon as he 
can be made to guide to the bit and reins, he will drive, 
even without breeching, allowing the cross-piece of the 
shafts to come against his quarters, the reins under the 
tail, etc., without showing the least fear or resistance from 
such causes. Even colts of quite a bad character, we do 
all this with, in illustrating principles before the class, daily, 
and regard it no feat to do in fifteen to twenty and thirty 
minutes. As before stated, as soon as the colt can be 
taught to rein, and submit to the control of the bit, almost 
so soon he can be hitched up and driven without breech- 
ing. The real point to be considered in the training of 
the colt is, how soon can you get a good manageable 
mouth? While this is the point I look at, back of it is one 
that cannot be safely neglected, since it is at the founda- 
tion of your ultimate success ; namely, making the colt 
absolutely gentle. He must not be afraid of any thing 
upon, over, or against him • to have the feet taken up and 
pounded upon ; to submit to the shafts or any thing else 

33 



34 THE COLT. 

striking the quarters or legs without fear, etc. Doing this 
thoroughly and well, is the first true step of success ; this 
accomplished, you are ready to go on with the training, 
but not before. This is the defective, weak point, that 
seems so difficult to do ; the failure of which has been, 
and is, the great stumbling-block of difficulty to trainers 
and horsemen. They cannot see or understand why a 
horse, after months, perhaps years, of good character, 
should, without warning, at some trifling cause of derange- 
ment in the harness or wagon, cause the most violent fear 
and resistance, which he will not afterward forget. These 
are the complaints repeated many times daily to me, by 
good-thinking farmers and self-styled horsemen, who, of 
course, in their own estimation, know all about a horse. A 
horse reasons only from the impressions of experience ; and 
this is his weak point, and the key of managing him suc- 
cessfully. The farmer knows his cow will not submit to be 
milked but on the right side ; she may have been milked 
for years successfully, yet to attempt some morning to 
milk her on the other side, would be almost sure to excite 
her to kick and run away ; she was broken or trained to 
be milked only on one side, and remains unbroken so far 
as the other side goes. 

The principle is precisely the same with horses in rea- 
soning ; consequently, making one part of the body gentle, 
does not, by any means, in a horse of spirit and sensibility, 
make the opposite part so. Now, the forward part of the 
body, from necessity, is accustomed to be handled, but 
seldom the hind quarters ; and unless the sensibility and 
fear of the hind parts and flanks are thoroughly overcome, 
to do which properly at the start is indispensable, there 
is sure to be trouble and danger of accident from any of 
these common causes of derangement, exciting the fear, 
which is liable to occur at any time in their use. It 
is not always possible to guard against the breeching- 
strap or something else breaking or giving out, that would 
cause the shafts to come against the quarters ; and the 
horse, not understanding what it means, is in consequence 
frightened, and the result is an unavoidable accident, 
perhaps serious loss. All this I accomplish in the most 
thorough manner, by treatment that makes the most 



THE COLT. 



35 



powerful horses completely safe in the hands of an ordi- 
nary man in a few minutes, without the least danger or 
abuse. I subject the colt simply to the second method of 
subjection, after which, as soon as he will lead promptly, 
which I make him do easily with the war-bridle, I put on 
the harness with breaking-bit, to which there is soon 
complete obedience; and in ten or fifteen minutes, an 
ordinary good colt that had never been harnessed, possibly 
not haltered, will act as gently as any old horse. 

If a strong, wild, dangerous colt, you must proceed 
cautiously. The first step is to turn him into a small yard 




Haltering the Colt. 

or barn, where there is no chance to run very far, or break 
away : it would alarm him too much to try to catch and 
hold him to put on the halter, and besides, there is danger 
of being hurt. This difficulty you can easily overcome as 
follows : Get a light pole, ten or twelve feet in length, or 
as much longer as you can use to advantage, if the colt is 
very wild or dangerous, and drive two nails into it, about 
eight inches apart, the first about an inch from the end, 
with the heads bent a little outward from each other. 
Take a common rope halter, with a running noose, pull 



Ob THE COLT. 

the part which slips through the noose back about two 
feet, and hang the part that goes over the head upon the 
nails on the end of your pole nicely, keeping hold of the 
hitching part, which must be as long as your pole. Your 
halter is now so spread and hung upon the stick as to be 
easily put on to the head. If the colt is not excited or 
frightened, as you extend the halter towards him he will 
reach out his nose to smell and examine it ; and while he 
is gratifying his curiosity in this way, you can bring the 
slack part under his jaw and raise the pole high enough 
to bring the halter over and back of the ears, when, by 
turning the stick half way round, the halter will drop from 
it upon the head. This will frighten the colt a little, and 
cause him to run from you ; but this will only cause the 
slack part passing back of the jaw to be pulled up, and 
the halter will be securely adjusted. The moment the 
colt finds the halter pull upon him, he will be likely to try 
to pull away. The larger your room, or enclosure, the 
more he will be encouraged to pull away. On this account, 
if the colt is bad, be careful to give yourself the advan- 
tage of a small room or carriage-house, which will be free 
from pegs or nails in the wall that would be likely to cause 
injury. By all means avoid a barn with stalls, for the colt 
will try to run into the stalls for protection. After the 
halter is on, you had better next aim to overcome the 
sharp edge of his wildness and confidence by subjecting 
him to the second method of subjection. If he is young, 
two or three years old, with long ears, round, small eyes, 
and a sulky, impulsive action, you must proceed care- 
fully, for he will fight you savagely at every point. Don't 
try to lead him, or jerk upon him, as he may lunge and 
throw himself, but, as gently as you can, catch the hair of 
the tail with the right hand, holding the halter well up 
near the head with the left, and, as quickly as you can, 
turn him around two, three, or four times ; this will make 
him dizzy, and enable you to carry out easily and safely 
the second method of subjection. Without this little advan- 
tage of partially confusing the mind in this manner, and 
going directly to forcing by the second course of subjection, 
he might lunge and throw himself over backwards and 
break his neck. This you must be careful to guard against. 



MUST OVERCOME HIS FEAR. 37 

Instantly tie the halter into the tail, a little long, and at 
starting touch the nose lightly with the whip. After once 
starting, the rest will be easy. To be thorough, reverse ; 
but while helpless, and his mind is unable to act, accustom 
him to be touched, as you please, around the hind parts, 
— in fact, every part of his body, — until perfectly regard- 
less of being handled or touched with a pole. Be very 
thorough. The colt should be made completely docile, 
to be ridden and handled as you desire. Rub and touch 
the hind parts and legs until there is no scringing or 
regard for being touched. Now, untie the halter, and see 
that he submits to all this while free. As I before inti- 
mated, I would recommend that making one part of the 
body gentle to be touched and handled, does not make 
the rest of the body gentle. All parts of the body must 
be treated in the same careful, thorough manner, and on 
both sides alike. This is the law of the horse's reasoning, 
which is shown in a great variety of ways ; consequently 
one-half or two-thirds of the body may be gentle, while 
the rest of it may be unbroken, or the horse will resent 
having it handled or touched. 

MUST OVERCOME HIS PEAR. 

We see this shown in a horse that has been, perhaps, 
worked for years, and is supposed to be well broken ; but 
let the whiffletree or cross-piece touch his quarters, it is 
likely to be the signal to jump and kick, and show as 
much fear and repugnance of being touched as if never 
trained. If, in the first place, this part of the body had 
been carefully and thoroughly accustomed to have the 
pressure of the cross-piece or the shafts brought against 
it, there would be no fear or resistance to any thing strik- 
ing or coming against the hind parts. 

It is on this account that the first experience of the colt 
should be made right, in proving to him conclusively, that 
he must submit to be handled with the greatest freedom. 
It is because I have learned to create this thorough foun- 
dation for preventing being frightened and made nervous 
by any possible cause of fear, that I am able so easily and 
quickly to drive and control any colt in a few minutes, 
when attached to shafts, without breeching. - With this 



38 MUST OVERCOME HIS FEAR. 

point made, you are ready to take the next step of mak> 
ing him lead to the halter. This is a point in which the 
colt will be likely to give you much opposition, resisting 
every step with great stubbornness ; so you must prepare 
yourself for some hard work. The main point is to keep 
cool ; for however stubborn and reckless the animal may 
act, when he gets over the excitement, and is cool, he will 
always work in nicely, and, once yielding, gives no oppo- 
sition afterwards. So the point is simply perseverance, 
and not pushing too fast ; for the warmer the colt gets, the 
more stubborn and reckless he will act. 

First put on the war-bridle, which has been shown to 
you, and is described in another chapter under that head. 
As it is much easier to make a horse follow sideways than 
straight ahead, for greater ease of working, I would advise 
making this point first. To do this, use this form : large 
kind of loop around the neck ; the cord extending through 
the mouth, back over the part around the neck should be 
used. It gives great power sideways, but should not be 
used on the colt any other way. If you pull back too 
much, and the colt is sensitive, there is danger of being 
thrown over back. If you pull ahead, it acts directly 
upon the mouth as a powerful check, and defeats your 
object. It has been used with great pretension by many 
as a means of bitting colts. The purchase from the back 
of the neck to the jaw is too short : it is liable to injure 
the mouth, and must be used with great care, if at all, for 
this purpose. It is, on the whole, bad treatment, and very 
objectionable in the hands of a rough, thoughtless man. 
Stand opposite the shoulder, about five or six feet away, 
and give a sharp, quick jerk toward you, and instantly 
slacken up, and repeat, at slow intervals, always slacking 
instantly after each pull. A. quick, nervous, well-bred colt 
would yield very quickly to this, coming to you and follow- 
ing freely after a few pulls; but those of small, round 
eyes, heavy eye-lids, long, heavy ears, are liable to be 
fearfully stubborn. When warmed up, they will always, 
if possible, pull into a corner, run into a stall, and try to 
do almost any thing but yield the point. When thoroughly 
wanned up, they will either stand with ears lopped, legs 
spread, and head down, or lunge recklessly away. If the 



KINDNESS. 39 

colt becomes very warm, the better way is to stop, and let 
him get cool. While thoroughly warm, it is next to 
impossible to make him do any thing ; yet such will always 
work in easily when cool, and especially after a sharp les- 
son. Your best course is, then, if the colt warms up, and 
becomes thoroughly stubborn, to stop, and let him become 
entirely cool, when you are to go on as before in the same 
manner. To your surprise he may now give up in a few 
minutes, and is so perfectly broke that he will follow you 
anywhere, without being touched. As soon as he gets the 
idea of coming to you, encourage him by kindness. 

KINDNESS. 

Stop at once, caress the horse, give a little oats, apple, 
or any thing else of which he is fond, until there is perfect 
obedience. 

There is great sleight in using the war-bridle, and it is 
mainly in the quickness of the pull ; but in that little pull 
all the power in your body must be concentrated, like the 
crack of a whip. Never hang on after the pull ; let the 
cord go instantly back slack ; neither should the cord be 
allowed by chance to keep drawn tight upon the jaw, as it- 
destroys the sensibility of the mouth, and, in a great meas- 
ure, makes your work harder. If you are not careful, you 
will blister and skin your hands. You do not feel or know 
any thing about this, while excited and warm, as you are 
liable to become. To guard against the trouble, have 
gloves on your hands. Sometimes a colt will come side- 
ways well enough, but will not come ahead. In this case 
change the form of war-bridle ; put the small loop around 
the jaw ; pass the cord over the head where the halter 
rests, and down through the loop the end forms around 
the jaw. Stand about six or eight feet ahead of the horse, 
a little sideways, and, as before, give a quick, sharp pull, 
repeating slowly. However stubborn the colt, he will in a 
few minutes come promptly, and, once yielding, will follow 
anywhere. The power and value of the war-bridle, when 
properly used, are beyond estimate for breaking a horse to 
lead. It is invaluable, because it will break any colt or 
horse, no matter how bad, to lead as desired, freely ; and 
it does it so quickly and easily that it is, beyond all com- 



40 KINDNESS. 

parison, the best means known for the purpose. It does 
not injure the horse ; its success in all cases is complete. 
There is, however, a great point in the skill of using it 
right. 

I will here explain to you how you can make almost any 
colt lead easily by the use of a common rope halter. It 
of course does not give the power of the war-bridle, and is 
not to be compared with it ; but, being available and sim- 
ple, I will include it. The halter should fit well on the 
head ; the nose-piece should not be too tight or too low. 
If too tight, you will greatly lessen its power upon the 
head ; if too low, it presses upon the nostrils, and prevents 
breathing. Neither should the rope be more than three- 
fourths of an inch in size. If you have a rope-halter, see 
that the slipping-noose part is made fast by a single knot, 
leaving the nose part large enough, so that it will not press 
tightly upon the jaw. If you neglect this little point, 
when you pull upon the halter, this nose-piece around and 
back of the jaw draws tight and hurts : it tends directly 
to setting the colt back ; and once pressing tightly upon 
his head, he is likely to pull most recklessly to get away. 
This is the reason a colt hitched by a rope-halter is liable, 
without any apparent cause, to get in the habit of pulling 
on the halter. This you will avoid by tying into a knot, 
as above described. Now stand opposite the shoulder, 
and give a sharp, quick pull, and let loose instantly. You 
will of course pull the head towards you ; and, if the body 
is brought around towards you, you have made quite a 
point. If the colt attempts to run back or runs ahead, 
give him slack rope; simply repeat, until he will come 
around towards you without pulling. Now get on the 
opposite side, and repeat the same tactics until he will 
come that way freely ; and at each movement of coming 
to you, reward him with a little apple, or any thing which 
he likes. Now gradually pull as before, but a little more 
and more on a line with the body, until he will follow 
readily without being pulled upon. If you stand in front 
of a green colt, and pull slowly and heavily upon him, he 
will gradually, but firmly, pull against you, and will be 
likely to rear up, and throw himself over backwards, or 
throw himself down. Tie him by the head, and he will 



KINDNESS. 



41 



pull most desperately. This slow pulling is what is to be 
avoided; and the habit is established of yielding to the 
slightest pressure of the halter. It is also a point in show- 
ing that a colt should not, as is common, be hitched at 
first in this way. There is a natural tendency in the colt 
to pull when tied by the head, which this making to yield 
by the course above described almost wholly overcomes, 
but is not to be relied upon. 

Hitch the colt for a few times as follows, and he 




Hitching the Colt so that he cannot injure himself, or learn to pull. 



will never learn the habit. Provide yourself with a small 
rope, not over one-half an inch in diameter, one that 
cannot be broken, — a hemp one is the best, — twenty- 
eight feet long ; double this, and put the end forming a 
loop under the tail, bring forward over the back, twisting 
two or three times, and tie both in a double knot, below 
the neck in front of the shoulders ; now pass the cords 
forward through the ring in the manger, and back to the 
ring in the halter back of the jaw. If you wish to be 
very particular, wind the part of the rope under the tail 
with a piece of rag to prevent making the tail sore. The 
moment the colt attempts to pull, he is disconcerted and 
disabled, and comes ahead, from the pull upon the tail, in 
surprise. There is pressure upon the head to which he 
becomes accustomed ; and all inclination to pulling is pre- 
vented and overcome, and prevents all possibility of being 
injured. The younger the colt and the colder-blooded, 



42 



KINDNESS. 



the more inclined to resist the restraint of -the halter, con* 
sequently the more difficult to make yield to the halter, or 
to hold by the head. When once broken, however, they 
are honest and reliable afterwards. When the colt is 
gentle to handle, and leads nicely, your work is more than 
half done. The course I usually pursue is this : If the 
colt will bear it, I put on the harness at once, after making 
him gentle and teaching him to lead, passing the reins 
shaft-bearers, which enables keeping him 




First lesson in driving the Colt with reins. 

from turning around. (See cut.) If the reins are through 
the turrets, it will be difficult to keep him from doing this. I 
drive him around gently, not attempting to stop or back until 
he gets the idea, will turn right and left promptly, and sub- 
mit to the control of the bit, which he soon learns. This 
should be done in a yard or field, where you have room, 
and nothing to annoy. If, however, the colt is warm, and 
does not work in easily and promptly, do not attempt to 
drive him in harness ; treat him kindly as you can, and 
put him in good quarters ; repeat this lesson the next day, 
and he will usually work well in a short time. Any way, 
repeat, and test him hard on this point of being touched 
and handled around the hind parts, until you know he 
will with certainty bear any thing in the way of pole or 
shaft against his quarters, &c, without resistance or fear. 
A good many are so short-sighted and thoughtless, as to 
think a colt should behave and act as gentle as an old 



BITTING. i 43 

horse after being once handled, especially if he works 
in well. If I subject a colt, no matter how bad a one, to 
treatment, when I bring him under complete control, they 
think that is all that it is necessary to do ; that he must 
stay so, or the treatment is good for nothing. 

All horses are not alike in disposition or intelligence, as 
I have shown in the first part; and the point is to insure 
absolute certainty of success. If one bucket of water 
will not put a fire out, the point is to throw on more, and 
put on enough until sure every smouldering spark is extin- 
guished. This is precisely the rule in making the colt 
gentle. You are acting upon a certain side of the nervous 
system : if one lesson does not make the impression 
strong enough to accomplish your purpose, repeat until 
you do. If the colt is warming up too much, or you find 
that he is at all doubtful, upon trial next day, repeat 
the lesson until you know the colt is gentle, and shows no 
fear under any excitement. You are now ready for the 
next step, of getting sufficient control upon the mouth to 
guide and restrain the horse as you desire, in harness. For 
quick, sharp work in doing this, the breaking-bit is indis- 
pensable ; but the great power of this bit is a reason for 
using it with caution in the control of a green colt. If 
you once get the mouth too tender and free to the bit, it is 
difficult, in many cases, to get the mouth hard, so that there 
is a strong pressure of the jaw against it in driving. Then 
a horse with a tender mouth is liable to rein back too 
freely when pulled upon : this trouble you may cause by 
using the breaking-bit too freely at the start. You must 
aim to make a good, firm mouth, yet one that is like a 
steel spring to your control of the reins. If you have a 
valuable colt and wish to work slowly and carefully, I 
would advise the following course : 

BITTING. 

The mouth, in the first place, should be made accustomed 
to the bit ; then, by gradually shortening the check-rein, the 
mouth is made to submit to restraint. To do this, put on 
a common bridle, with a smooth snaffle-bit, without reins, 
and allow him to go as he pleases, in a yard or field, for 
half an hour or more, which may be repeated once or 



44 



BITTING. 



twice, to make the mouth accustomed to and hardened to 
the bit. Next put on a surcingle, with check and side 
reins, buckling the reins at first so long as to bring but 
little restraint upon the mouth. After being on thirty or 
forty minutes, take it off. At each repetition, buckle the 
reins a little shorter, until the head is brought up and 
back freely to the check. 

It seems needless to introduce details of a bitting har- 
ness. Any simple construction of the ordinary kind will 
answer very well, and the style is so generally understood 




A simple, safe way of bitting the Golt. 

that a description here is unnecessary ; the object being 
to bring such restraint upon the bit that the head will 
be held up and back most naturally and easily, without 
giving it freedom, except in the direction of the reins. 
Care should be taken to have the throat-latch so loose, 
that there will be no pressure of it upon the throat when 
checked up. The gag-runners should be well up near the 
ears. Care must be taken not to bring too much restraint 
upon the bit by buckling the reins so short, at first, as to 
endanger causing the colt to throw himself over back- 



BITTING. 45 

wards and break his neck. It is bad policy to keep a colt 
checked up too long at a time, as it becomes tiresome, 
which would cause a resting of the head upon the bit, and 
thus form the disagreeable habit of lugging. If, however, 
the colt should fight the restraint of the bit or check, it 
should be left on till the fit exhausts itself, and he shows a 
disposition to submit to its restraint. 

Short lessons at first, and gradually keeping on longer 
as the mouth becomes hardened by the bit and the colt 
will bear it without fatigue, is the best course. 

You are now ready for the next step of teaching, to 
rein right and left, stop, back, &c. * 

Put on the harness-reins through shaft-lugs, and see 
how the colt works : if too stiff or stubborn to the bit, 
put in the breaking-bit. Give him a lesson with it. One 
lesson of a few minutes is usually enough. Be sure you 
do not do too much, so as not to get the mouth too tender. 
This is a point you must be careful to avoid. If he resists 
the pull of the reins either way, drill on that point until 
he turns easily and promptly as desired. Next, teach him 
to stand. This is not usually difficult to do, yet in some 
cases requires much care and patience to do well. While 
driving on a moderate walk, speak " whoa," in a natural 
tone of voice, and immediately after give a sharp little 
jerk with the reins. This will cause the horse to stop, 
but usually he will start on again. Repeat the command, 
and pull, and continue repeating, until the colt learns to 
stand. Do not let him go back. Appreciate obedience 
by a caress and kind treatment. Give a little something 
of which he is fond. Remember that now you are creating 
habits that will, if well established, last for life, and the 
safest course is to go slow. You cannot certainly do harm 
by this course ; for no matter how awkward, if patient and 
careful, it will compensate for much want of skill. It will 
also give the colt something of a chance to learn what to 
do. 

Your next object should be to drive the colt in shafts. 
A four-wheeled wagon is not the thing to drive in at first, 
because so bad to turn with ; and before this is attempted 
you must know the colt will rein freely and reliably. A 
little care will guard you from possible trouble, and the 



46 THE HARNESS SHOULD BE CAREFULLY FITTED. 

true point of success is to make no failures, to make every 
step sure, and when you get your horse driving, he will be 
as safe and gentle as any old trained horse. To make 
this point safely and easily, I devised poles for the purpose 
(cut of which see). It answers the purpose perfectly, and 
costs but little. 

Get two poles about twelve to fourteen feet in length, 
common saplings, about two inches in diameter. Lay 
them down in the form of shafts, the small ends forward, 
six feet six to eight inches from the forward ends ; lay on 
another piece of pole, same size, and long enough to ex- 
tend beyond the others a few inches. Tie on with cords 




Driving the Colt in poles. 

or straps. Hitch the colt into these poles, attaching the 
tugs to the cross-piece by tying with cord, or any other 
way you please, and drive around until there is perfect 
submission to them, guiding promptly to the reins, and 
submitting to the poles striking the flanks or heels without 
exciting the least fear. Just as soon as he reins well, you 
are all right. 



THE HARNESS SHOULD BE CAREFULLY PITTED. 

As to after-work I can say but little. The first point 
to which I would call your special attention is the fitting 
of the harness. It should in every respect fit well, and 
should not be drawn too tight anywhere. 



THE HARNESS SHOULD BE CAREFULLY FITTED. 47 

See that the bridle fits well, that the cheek-pieces are 
long enough to let the bit rest naturally and easily in the 
mouth ; that the throat-latch is not so tight that when the 
head is pulled up it does not press against the throat. 
Let every part fit easily and naturally. Buckling too tight 
anywhere not only annoys, but obstructs the circulation. 
Drive on a walk, or moderate trot, at first. Be careful 
about backing. If you get too much back, there is danger 
of the colt learning, when confused, to run back or come 
back too freely. This must not on any condition be 
encouraged or permitted. 

You should be careful about driving so much as to cause 
fatigue ; neither should the colt be required to draw heavy 
loads until he is hardened, and has learned to use his 
strength. If he shows action, and you wish to teach him 
to trot, go slow. 

After learning to walk well, let him trot a little, gradually 
letting him out faster and a little farther, as smooth pieces 
of road give opportunity; restrict these little outbursts 
of speed at first to the limits of a few rods. Let him 
dash out a short distance, then gradually slacken to a 
walk, speaking kindly and encouragingly. After a while, 
let him out again, pushing, perhaps, a little faster and 
farther, being careful not to crowd to breaking. It must 
not be expected because your colt is perhaps a good 
mover, that he will be a. fast trotter. But if he does show 
a loose open gait, do not by any means spoil him by 
attempting too much at first. There is usually too much 
anxiety to try a colt's speed and bottom ; and he is often 
pushed, overdone, and spoiled perhaps, before his powers 
are half developed. 

A colt must not be crowded too much at the start. He 
cannot be expected to drive like an old horse, without 
experience and practice. He must grow into the position, 
as it were ; and a reasonable patience and effort is neces- 
sary to insure this. The great trouble with most people, 
in training colts, is, they attempt too much ; and doing too 
much now is liable to spoil all. 



48 DRIVING DOUBLE. 

DRIVING DOUBLE. 

It is generally the custom to drive the colt at first in 
double harness by the side of a gentle horse accustomed 
to harness. The colt should be put on the off side. The 
whip should be held over the old horse, to keep him up to 
the movements of the colt in starting, but the gait should 
be kept moderate. 

After driving well on the off side, the colt should be re- 
versed to the near side, there being less danger of becoming 
frightened from getting into or out of the wagon, or of 
seeing things while being passed to or from the wagon, by 
being more from view on the off side ; therefore, to lessen 
the probabilities of being frightened, it is preferable at 
first. 

Let the driving be moderate and the load light, and by 
all means, if the colt is of a sensitive or nervous tempera- 
ment, the greatest mildness must be observed. Loud 
"yelling" or cracking of the whip should not be per- 
mitted. 

BACKING. 

After learning to drive well, teach the idea of backing 
by pulling on the reins steadily, and saying " back." If 
there is resistance, give a quick, sharp, raking pull, which 
will move the colt by the pain and force of the bit back- 
ward, repeating until there is prompt obedience. If there 
is much resistance, put on breaking-bit, which will soon 
secure obedience ; but under any circumstances do not 
make the colt back too freely, especially if the mouth is 
sensitive. If there is much resistance to backing, and the 
colt warms up, the best way is to stop until cool. Repeat 
lesson, and the colt will soon back freely. Be careful not 
to force to back too freely. A little too much disposition 
to back is sometimes hard to overcome. Aim to get just 
enough and stop. 

RIDING. 

If the colt is not of a very bad character, there will be 
no resistance to being ridden, after the first lesson of 
subjection. If there is, attach a short strap or a piece of 
rope to the off forefoot, throwing the other end over the 
back. Take a short hold of this strap with the right 




RIDING. 49 

hand, while the left grasps the near rein of the bridle 
firmly. As the head is pulled around, the horse is made 
to step sidewise, and the instant the foot is relaxed it is 
held up by the restraint of the right hand on the strap, 
which is instantly drawn upon. The colt is now on three 
legs, and unable to resist. 
Jump lightly on the back, 
press the feet against the bel- 
ly and flanks. As there is 
submission, release the foot, 
taking a firm hold of the 
reins, which should be held 
short. Move the colt for- 
ward, and if there is an indi- 
cation of resistance, pull upon 
the strap and reins, which will 
disable and disconcert the Disabling the Colt with a foot- 

, - - , . . strap to be mounted. 

horse from further opposition 

to being rode. If the colt will not move forward, request 
an assistant to lead him by the head for a short time. So 
long as there is any indication of resistance, keep on the 
strap. One thorough lesson is usually sufficient, though 
some colts may require a repetition of the lesson. 

When it is desired to mount, let the left hand rest 
lightly on the mane, a little forward of the withers, holding 
the reins between the thumb and fingers. Throw the 
right hand lightly on the back, the body close to the horse. 
Now spring lightly upward and forward. The instant of 
doing so, let the right hand glide forward until the elbow 
strikes the backbone, when the weight of the body is to be 
instantly balanced upon the right arm, which will give 
sufficient strength to make the spring continuous, and the 
body is easily brought into a sitting posture. This is a 
slight undertaking, and a little practice will give the ability 
to mount the highest horses with apparently wonderful 
ease. To mount on a saddle, stand by the side, a little 
back of the stirrup, the face towards the horse's head. 
Take a short hold of the reins between the fingers, grasp- 
ing into the mane at the same time, put the left foot into 
the stirrup, throw the right hand over the saddle and press 
it against the off side, throwing the weight of the body on 



50 HANDLING THE FEET. 

the left foot, and you can lift yourself into the saddle 
easily. 

HANDLING THE FEET. 

All this should be done when the colt is first subjected 
to treatment. If the feet are then taken up and handled, 
there will be no after trouble. If of an ordinary good dis- 
position, this can be done without resorting to special 
means. Stand well up to the shoulder, put the left hand 
on the shoulder, pressing forward gently, which will relax 
the muscles controlling the leg, with the right hand in- 
stantly grasp the foot below the fetlock and lift it up, 
remove the left hand, and bring it under the foot to aid the 
right hand. To handle the hind feet, let the right hand 
glide gently from the shoulders back to the hip. At the 
instant it passes the point of the hip, bring the left hand 
forward upon the hip. While doing this, the right hand is 
being glided down the leg gently, until it strikes the fet- 
lock, when the left hand should be pressed firmly against 
the body at the point stated, which will relax the limb, and 
the foot can be easily brought up by the right ; the left is 
lowered, and passed down the limb on the back part of 
the fetlock. Or the foot can be raised and lowered a few 
times with the right hand, while the left balances the body 
by pressing against the hip until there is perfect submis- 
sion. 

If there is resistance, take up the forefoot, request an 
assistant to hold it up for you, while he at the same time 
holds the colt by the halter or bridle. Tie the end of a 
rope or strap around the hind foot, above the fetlock, at 
the instant of doing which let the hand glide along to the 
opposite part, until six or eight feet from the foot. At 
the same time request the forward foot to be let loose, the 
assistant holding by the halter. Now pull upon the strap, 
which will bring the foot forward, and, at the instant of 
attempting to kick, let go, and so repeat until the foot is 
submitted to the restraint of strap. Then slip behind and 
pull the foot back, and, as before, yielding at each effort to 
kick, let go, until the foot is submitted freely. Now take 
the foot from the control of the strap to the hand, and 
handle gently. 

If there is very determined resistance, tie the end of 



HANDLING THE FEET. 51 

your long strap around the neck, near the shoulders, pass 
the other end back between the forelegs, around the hind 
foot, but under the strap around the neck, and draw up on 
it, at the same time holding him by the bridle or halter. 
The colt may be frightened, and jump to get clear of the 
restraint. Should he act very much frightened, slack up 
on the strap until the foot is almost back to its natural 
position. Then, as he will bear, again pull a little shorter, 
at the same time pulling him round in a circle by the head, 
until he ceases struggling to get the foot loose. You may 
now pull the foot farther foward, and hold it as before, 
until he will stand quietly. Now step back a little, and 
pass the hand down the hind leg. Slap the hand upon 
the leg a little, until there is no resistance ; then take it in 
the hands. If there is no resistance, undo the end of the 
strap and allow the foot a little more freedom; at the 
same time, while holding the foot by the strap, pass the 
hand from the hip down the leg, quietly, rubbing and ca- 
ressing until able to take it in the hands. 

Handle the opposite leg in the same manner, until 
there is perfect submission. Should the colt resist having 
the feet handled with much determination, or prove very 
vicious, use the double hitch, or go back to the regular 
subjective treatment. Those of a wildish, mustang dis- 
position are the most obstinate : there is once in a while 
one of this class that will call for pretty thorough and pa- 
tient treatment to make gentle. They are not only so 
plucky, but so strong and enduring, that they are disposed 
to resist control of the feet at all hazards. It is of great 
importance that colts are treated with great kindness : 
giving apples, a little oats, &c, after submitting the feet, 
or being otherwise handled, as the real cause of trouble is 
fear ; and a little flattery in this way has a powerful effect 
in winning the confidence, and thus of winning obedience. 
All this is now so easily done when necessary by the ordi- 
nary subjective course, that it seems needless to dwell on 
minor conditions and details : you must bear in mind that 
bad cases call for a little work and patience, and that you 
must be not only thorough, but prudent, to be successful. 



PREVENTING AND OVERCOMING FEAR. 



If you start right, there is but little trouble in making a 
colt or horse entirely indifferent to any of the ordinary 
causes of fear. The main point is not to force the object 
or sound too quickly or suddenly upon the attention when 
you touch the quarters, and let the shafts upon the hind 
parts, as explained at the commencement, on page 37. He 
was first so disabled, and the reason so thrown out of 
balance, that all this could be done with perfect success in 
a few minutes. If, however, the colt is of a quick, nervous 
character, but little force is necessary, simply bringing the 
objects to notice as slowly as you can. Whatever is very 
unusual attracts the attention quickest. If you happened 
to drive by a house on a road not much travelled, every 
one in the house would crowd to the window to see you. 
In a city a crowd may pass without notice, because of 
common and familiar occurrence. Horses used around a 
depot, in the midst of moving trains, for a short time, will 
soon cease to notice the noise and excitement of the en- 
gines and cars ; while a horse not accustomed to them, 
when driven unexpectedly near them, would be excited to 
great fear of them. I was present once when four horses, 
entirely unaccustomed to the noise of a band, were at- 
tached to a band-wagon : the first note and tap of the 
drum excited them almost beyond control. I directed the 
band to get ten rods behind and commence playing very 
lightly, gradually coming nearer and playing stronger 
until they came up to the wagon. I now had them get in, 
and directed them to commence as lightly as they could, 
and gradually increase. In ten minutes the band could 
play with entire freedom, without the horses caring any 
thing for the noise and excitement. If the band had 
struck into playing quickly and unexpectedly, as usual, at 



PREVENTING AND OVERCOMING FEAR. 53 

first, the horses would have been frightened beyond all con- 
trol, and spoiled. The principle is the same with any thing 
else. The point is not to throw the mind off its balance 
by exciting it so suddenly and strongly as to be unable 
to obtain an understanding of the nature and character 
of the object or sound. Let so much only be brought to 
notice as there is ability to understand, gradually repeat- 
ing as may be necessary. It is fear that causes the colt 
to kick, and resist being touched ; consequently we have a 
great many colts that are afraid of shafts, and will kick if 
touched around the quarters or belly. I have shown how 
easy it is to make such gentle, and so safe that they will 
not resist the cross-piece and whiffletrees coming against 
the quarters. Now, all this I do, with some rare excep- 
tions, by putting the horse in a condition to overcome 
this fear, which I can easily do, and the cause of the 
whole trouble is overcome as if by magic. Doing this 
as it should be, as I teach, removes all the danger and 
trouble from this cause, and enables doing in a few min- 
utes what is the cause of so much danger and trouble, 
including the great loss of time, by the common system of 
breaking. 

The thing to be accomplished is to overcome all fear of 
being touched, or of any noise from behind, until we are 
able to make and hold this point by the ordinary control 
of the reins and bit. We see it is almost sheer madness 
to attempt making bad colts safe in harness ; for it is seen 
if the quarters of such are suddenly and unexpectedly 
touched by the shafts, or even the touching of a strap, it 
is* likely to cause so much fear and sense of danger as to 
excite the animal to run and kick beyond all control. 
The fears once excited in this way, we have the habit es- 
tablished of the wagon and harness being thereafter a 
cause of the greatest terror. The principle is the same 
with a robe, umbrella, blanket, or any thing else. The 
trouble is owing to being forced to notice so quickly and 
unexpectedly, that the innocent character of the object 
could not be understood. It is not a little wonder- 
ful, too, how intense an aversion of an object may be 
created by an almost instantaneous impression. When 
in Cleveland, O., a horse owned by Dr. Keegan was 



54 PREVENTING AND OVERCOMING FEAR. 

brought in for treatment, reported to be afraid of a blan- 
ket : this horse did not have a blanket upon him for seven 
years, and he would act furiously vicious the moment 
shown one. All this was caused by a gust of wind rais- 
ing a blanket from his back, that had been thrown upon 
him while standing in the < street, and falling under his 
belly, and frightening him greatly. This horse would 
squeal, strike, and kick, and his eyes blazed like balls of 
of fire, when shown a blanket. It was only by great care 
and effort that I was able to make him submit to be 
touched with one, and submit to be covered with it. A 
horse brought me in Green castle, Penn., years ago, was so 
much afraid of a robe, that he would get away, or kill any 
one, if he could, who would bring a robe near him. With a 
robe behind me, and only showing one corner of it, though 
distant from me fifty feet, the horse was completely frantic, 
and I believe would have died from the shock, if treated 
too precipitately. By careful, energetic treatment, I was 
able in less than an hour to make my success complete, 
the horse becoming entirely indifferent to it. It was re- 
garded a great feat. This was one of my little episodes 
of trial, the horse acting fearfully wild and bad before the 
class, and at first I made no apparent progress in making 
him submit to the robe being brought near him. The 
owner and every member of the class said, " There was no 
use, that the horse could not be broken."- Their perfidy 
of purpose, too, was so m nifest, to break me down if 
they could, that I was roused to vindicate myself at all 
hazards. To the owner, on the instant, I pledged in 
cash the value of the horse as assurance that he would 
not be injured. To the class I said, If I do not succeed, 
and perfectly, I will pay every man back the money he 
paid me. I demand silence and time as my right, with- 
out favor. I went to work as if for life, and succeeded. 
But it was a close call. Nothing short of sharp, heroic 
work would do ; and by careful work I made the reforma- 
tion perfect. The owner led his horse home with a robe 
over his back and neck ; the horse as indifferent to it as 
if never afraid of it. They all declared it the most won- 
derful performance ever seen of the kind. Every man, 
if necessary, would have fought for me ; and every man 



PREVENTING AND OVERCOMING FEAR. 55 

followed me to the next town the day following. That 
was many years ago, and was one of the many little epi- 
sodes of trial to which I have been subjected in my long 
experience, but which were necessary to give me whatever 
of success I am now able to exhibit. The Petroleum 
horse, Wild Pete, referred to on page 14, was moved in 
his viciousness almost wholly by fear : he was so wild and 
afraid of any thing touching him, that with one leg tied 
up, and with the control of the war-bridle, a means of 
the greatest possible power upon the head, when I touched 
the hind quarters lightly with the lash of a long whip he 
was so frightened that he sprang into the air, and got 
away from me, running fully a half a mile, at every jump 
kicking in the most fearful manner ; yet one lesson of an 
hour completely broke up all this fear, and left the horse 
as gentle, safe, and manageable for any one to drive and 
use as could be desired. 

The Press horse, broken by me in Buffalo, N.Y., re- 
ferred to on p. 12, was moved wholly by fear. Any thing 
like the shafts of a wagon was an object of terror to him. 
A year before this horse was treated by me, four of the 
best horsemen of Gowanda, N.Y., who had taken lessons 
in that place a short time before, of a travelling horse- 
tamer, so called, determined to apply the treatment to 
the Press horse. They clubbed together to get the neces- 
sary rigging used by this man, which was, by the way, quite 
complicated and expensive, but indispensable. They 
led the horse a mile out of town, worked hard half a day 
upon him, all ending in the horse getting away, and going 
flying into town with ropes and rigging hanging about him. 
It was a disastrous failure ; and I need not add that horse- 
taming was at a discount, and a term of derision in that 
town. When, the next morning, after being subjected to 
treatment by me, I drove this horse in the street (three of 
these men — Mr. Vosburg, a liveryman and a really good 
horseman, being one of them — were stopping at Brown's 
Hotel, it being race-week in Buffalo ; and all the horsemen 
in that section of country were in the city), they were 
more than astonished. They desired me to unhitch the 
horse, rattle the shafts, all of which I did, even driving 
him without breeching, the horse acting as gentle and 



56 PREVENTING AND OVERCOMING FEAR. 

quiet as any old thoroughly-trained horse could. They 
said that beat them ; that they could not see how on earth 
I could, in so short a time, make so complete a change in 
him ; that he was the most fearful horse they had ever 
seen ; and that they could not believe it possible that he 
could be made so gentle and safe. But there was the 
simple fact ; Press and all were there ; it was the same 
horse brought into the city the day before, and was 
treated by me in the presence of a class of over a hun- 
dred. Such feats as these are what startle a people ; and 
I need not add that this, with other feats of control, gave 
me great success in that section of the country at the 
time. 

Nearly every kicking, runaway colt and horse is moved 
by fear ; and I refer at this length to the cases above 
mentioned, to show the practicability of breaking such 
horses, and making them safe when right principles gov- 
ern the efforts. I would state here that an impression of 
fear may be made so intense as to destroy life, or shatter 
the nervous system to a degree that partially or wholly 
destroys the reason. This possibility you cannot over- 
look. When a man tells me his horse is afraid of an 
object, I tell him, if bad, I must see the horse, to learn 
how much, if any, the nervous system has been deranged. 
The expression of the eye, when a little excited, will enable 
determining this. I am now referring to what is possible, 
not what is to be expected in cases of average kicking 
runaway scrapes, or ordinary fear of a robe, umbrellas, 
and other objects of this nature. One or two sharp lessons 
ought to overcome these difficulties. All impressions, it is 
supposed, are made upon a series of concentric nerves in 
the brain, called ganglia, which retain or throw off impres- 
sions by reflex action. Success gives confidence ; failure 
and injury, an undue sensibility to fear. If the cars come 
upon you suddenly and frighten your horse, causing a run- 
away scrape, the sudden and close proximity of a train of 
cars afterwards would cause anxiety while driving even a 
gentle horse. But the horse reasons from the effect upon 
his nervous system and the side of his reason acted 
directly upon. He may be in a position of danger, but 
not knowing it is indifferent ; while that which seems dan- 



DETAILS. 57 

gerous may throw him into a panic of fear, though not 
touched. Now, the point is, to make the horse able to 
see and understand that the object, whatever it is, is 
harmless ; but he must be fully convinced of this from all 
sides of his understanding. And here, certain- conditions 
and principles of treatment must necessarily govern the 
efforts, or there will be possibility of failure. 

DETAILS. 

The first great difficulty here, if the case is bad, is to 
be able to control the horse as desired, so that you can 
reason the matter with him. I would remind here that 
the most dangerous cases are those that are usually gentle 
until the object or cause, whatever it is, is brought to 
notice, when terror makes the horse both strike and kick 
with the fury of desperation. Such horses must be made 
to yield perfectly to control. The second method of sub- 
jection seems to accomplish this end best. The action of 
the mind is almost suspended ; and the horse is at once 
rendered helpless, when you can safely reach him with the 
object. You should in all cases treat the horse out of 
doors, and, as nearly as you can, in the very position of 
resistance. No matter how apparently gentle a horse 
may become by treatment in a barn or building, when he 
is taken out of doors he seems to forget it all, making 
serious disappointment and possible trouble. He must 
be treated outside of the barn or building where he sees 
the object in use, and where you can be free from all 
causes of excitement. Again, you must not on any 
account overlook the value of kindness and encourage- 
ment in the treatment for fear. If, for example, afraid of 
a robe, when you are able to bring it to the head and over 
the body, give a little apple, oats, or any thing else of 
which fond, to attract the mind, and associate with it sin- 
cerity and kindness. 

A ROBE. 

While held under careful restraint, let the robe be 
brought up gently to the horse's nose. After smelling and 
feeling of it in his own way until satisfied, rub it gently 
against the head, neck and body, the way the hair lies, as 



58 AN UMBRELLA OR PARASOL. 

he will bear. Then stand off a little, and throw it across 
the back, over the neck and head, gradually stepping 
farther, until you can throw the robe upon him as you 
please. 

Should you do any thing in the barn, you must repeat 
the same out of doors. You must also make him see and 
feel the robe behind, before, and on each side. Should 
he be at all dangerous, subject him to the second or first 
course of subjection ; and once under control, go on as 
before described in familiarizing the understanding to it. 
Very often, all you need to do is to take the horse by the 
halter, work slowly and gently, and you can soon throw 
it upon him as you please, safely. Repeat the lesson, 
always rewarding and encouraging with little presents. 
Sometimes the horse seems to be afraid of the smell, and 
will not become reconciled to it. In that case take a bit 
of the robe, tie it around the bit, and put it in the mouth 
for awhile, and this feeling will soon disappear. 

AN UMBRELLA OB PABASOL. 

While holding the horse by the halter or bridle, as may 
be necessary, bring the umbrella to his nose, gently rub it 
against the head, neck and body, as he will bear, spread- 
ing it a little, repeating the process of rubbing, and so 
continue, gaining little by little, until you can raise the 
umbrella over the head, and pass it around the body as 
you please, without exciting fear or resistance. 

SOUND OF A GUN. 
First, commence by snapping caps a short distance from 
the horse, gradually, as he will bear, approaching nearer, 
until you can snap caps while the gun is resting upon the 
back, over the head, etc. Then put in a little powder, 
and at each repetition increase the charge, until you can 
fire off a heavy load without exciting fear. 

BAILBOAD CARS. 

Let the horse see them at rest, then gradually lead or 
drive him up to them, even to smelling them with his 
nose. Now, as you have an opportunity, drive around 
while they are moving, working up nearer as you can, and 



TOP WAGON. 59 

at the same time turning him around so that he can see 
and hear them from different directions. This lesson 
should be often repeated, being careful not to crowd be- 
yond what will be borne easily, until they cease to attract 
his serious attention. 

A horse once really frightened, must be taken out of 
doors, and brought under thorough subjection by the first 
and second courses of subjection. Get good control of 
the mouth, make every point sure, and now drive around 
as before described. 

TOP WAGON. 

If necessary, use second and third courses of subjec- 
tion. Next, see that you have perfect control of the 
mouth with the bit ; now with an umbrella, commence 
gradually at the nose, and work slowly, shutting and open- 
ing it, going on each side alike, at the same time, giving 
apples or any thing of which he is fond. From behind, re- 
peat, first passing the umbrella gradually back over the hips 
from the shoulders, and finally getting behind, when you 
are to take the reins, starting and stopping, raising slowly, 
lowering, closing and opening the umbrella. Make this 
the object of quite a thorough, careful lesson. Now hitch 
to a wagon, with top down, or partially so. Be sure you 
have power enough to hold the horse with the bit while 
standing. Commence again in the same gradual manner, 
and work back. Do not by any means attempt to drive 
right off, and raise the umbrella or top suddenly on the 
road : if you do, you will undo your work. Be very cau- 
tious about this : a little care and time now, is what will 
do your work. If the horse is nervous, get out and to his 
head, over and over, working back as before. Remember 
the fear is really in connection with the wagon, and this 
is the difficulty to be overcome. The umbrella is the top 
to his imagination ; reconcile him to this carefully. You 
can also raise and lower the top, and let him smell and 
see it on every side, before being put in the shafts. Re- 
member it is an entirely new thing to him ; when he is 
backed into the shafts, and this is the end you are working 
for, to reach his mind to be convinced upon ; move a 
little, while the umbrella is over your head : stop and 



60 USING BLINDERS. 

start, over and over, until he does not mind it; now 
quietly put down the umbrella and raise the top two-thirds, 
and lower it, if you can, gently. Move slowly as you can, 
or even come down to standing again ; he will be much 
less afraid while standing, than when in motion ; so work 
up to speed slowly, until the top can be kept up. You 
should for a few times, before being hitched, let him see 
and smell of the top, and hitch in very gently. 

I break all horses without blinders, forcing obedience as 
I desire. I make success sure. But when a strong, wilful 
or nervous horse is once greatly frightened at a top, it is 
sometimes a serious matter. I take into consideration the 
fact that many who attend my lectures are timid, and will 
not try to do much with a bad horse of this nature ; so I 
have thought it advisable to give this slow patient course of 
treatment. If I have a bad horse of this kind, I take him 
out in the orchard or field, and subject him to first and 
second courses of subjection rapidly. I put on harness and 
under the bridle the double draw-hitch, and in ten or 
fifteen minutes take the starch out of him ; then I drive 
around, depending upon the bit, and at once put him into 
shafts, and force him up until perfectly obedient : this 
makes it simple. If you are timid and careful, take your 
time, and work sure. A few hours' time is nothing, while 
the safety of a good horse is a great object. I would say 
here, if you do not make the horse positively safe, it is 
better and cheaper for you to shoot him, than take the 
chances of exposing yourself to accidents by driving him. 
His place is before the plough or other farm-work that 
does not endanger life. 

USING BLINDERS. 

A lazy horse will drive better with blinders than with- 
out. If the whip is raised be will spring ahead violently, 
but when he sees it put down, will drop back again. Blind- 
ers should be used on such. A horse with a large, coarse- 
looking head will look better with blinders, as they conceal 
the effects of such a head. A spirited, intelligent horse 
will be more courageous and drives steadier without blind- 
ers, when he can see things around him plainly. Blinders 
are often badly fitted and liable to do harm to the eyes. 



EXCITING OBJECTS WHILE DRIVING. 61 

If used, they should not come too near the eyes. If the 
horse will drive better by concealing the wagon, let them 
be wide enough, or far enough above the eyes, to prevent 
seeing over them. 

OBJECTS EXCITING PEAK WHILE BIDING OB 
DBIVING. 

Should the horse show fear of a stone or stump, or 
any thing of the kind, he will naturally stop, and stare at 
the object in an excited manner. Should the cause of 
fear be great and sudden, he may attempt to turn round 
and run away. This is to be guarded against, by sitting 
well forward on the seat, and taking a short hold of the 
reins, at the same time speaking calmly and encouragingly 
to the horse. 

Speak encouragingly to the horse, but keep a close 
watch upon his actions. In a short time his alarm will be 
lessened. Then drive nearer, as he will bear, exercising 
the same patience and care. At each step nearer, the 
horse will show renewed fear. Keep pushing, a little at a 
time, as the horse will bear, until you can drive up to the 
object, or by it, and you not only leave no bad impression 
upon the mind, but gradually overcome the disposition to 
become frightened. 

Sometimes a horse will dislike a wheelbarrow, baby- 
wagon, turkeys, &c. ; but the treatment is the same. When 
the excitement is not so great as to endanger successful 
resistance, and the horse is disposed to "play off, or 
soldier," it may be advisable to apply the whip a little 
sharply, but this is to be avoided when it is seen the 
resistance is wholly caused by fear, and is not from laziness. 

Some horses, while driven to carriages, will not bear the 
noise and excitement of other horses being driven up 
behind. This is principally on account of the horse's ina- 
bility to see and understand the cause of the excitement, 
or it may be owing to the fault of the driver. Some one 
drives up rapidly behind, perhaps wishes to " go by," 
and then the colt is hallooed at and whipped up to 
prevent such a result. This may be repeated a few times ; 
and the consequence is, if a spirited horse, the habit is 
learned of rushing ahead to avoid the punishment expected 



62 OBJECTS MUST BE SEEN FROM DIFFERENT POSITIONS. 

under such circumstances ; and very often, too, a horse is 
forced into this habit by being run into from behind. 

MUST SEE THE OBJECT PROM DIFFERENT POSITIONS. 

It is one of the peculiarities of the horse to understand 
and be reconciled to an object or cause of excitement only 
from the position and circumstances brought to his notice. 
This seems to be on account of the horse's reasoning powers 
being so limited as to be unable to retain the same under- 
standing of the object beyond the position from which it 
was seen. 

Every progressive change of position requires almost the 
same care and patience as that preceding. For example : if 
in teaching a horse to submit to an umbrella, if it were 
shown only from the near side, upon carrying it to the off 
side, it would inspire nearly as much fear as at first from the 
near side, or there may be an aversion to some particular 
object ; or resistance may be inspired only under certain cir- 
cumstances. You may succeed in getting a colt gentle to 
be rode from the near side, but an attempt to mount him 
from the off side would make him resist. 

If a horse is afraid of an umbrella while in harness, he 
may be taught to care nothing about it out of harness ; but 
if not taught to feel and understand its character in harness, 
he would be apt to be as much frightened at it in that posi- 
tion as if he knew nothing about it. 

This seems to puzzle many well-meaning men, and is often 
the cause of much disappointment. 

A horse that is afraid of an umbrella is brought forward 
to illustrate the management of such habits. In a short 
time the horse will bear the umbrella over and around him 
in any manner, without seeming to care any thing about it. 
The owner is pleased with the belief that his horse is broken ; 
when in harness at some future time, he raises an umbrella 
behind the animal, and is astonished to find him almost as 
bad as ever, and he is disappointed. But when it is seen, in 
the first place, that it is often necessary to repeat the treat- 
ment, to expect the animal to be broken of the habit 
by a single indirect lesson, only tends to defeat success. 
For the inability to control the horse, and force upon him 
the object of aversion, may cause trouble, since the least 



OBJECTS MUST BE SEEN FROM DIFFERENT POSITIONS. 63 

sense of freedom tends to increase fear of the object. Now, 
the efforts of the owner to control the horse directly, in a 
position of great disadvantage, may produce this result ; and 
then, from an ignorance of the cause of failure, he believes it 
is impossible to overcome the habit. 

The lesson must be repeated, as long as may be necessary 
to the end of perfect success, or the horse, once excited, is 
liable to drift back to being almost as bad as before. 



KICKING IN HARNESS. 



Kicking, in the first place, is the natural outgrowth of 
the old system of breaking horses, which depends wholly 
for success upon the wearing-in process. No effort at all 
is made to show the horse the nature and character of 
what is behind him. He is put in harness, and driven. 
If nothing occurs to excite his fears and resistance, he is 
likely to work in gently, but if a horse of spirit, if any 
thing touches his quarters, or any thing unusual occurs to 
excite him, the habit is excited. As kicking is the horse's 
principal means of defence when caused by fear, and the 
horse is a courageous, determined fellow, there is great 
persistence in the habit. 

In the first place, if we touch a colt anywhere in the 
flanks or quarters, and the animal kicks, repeat the irrita- 
tion and kicking will soon become a confirmed habit. If 
a mare is irritated by touching, or pricking her in the 
flanks, she will soon by repetition become so nervous and 
sensitive that she will squeal and make water when so 
touched. A good, quiet nature can by this kind of bad 
treatment and abuse be soon transformed into a squealing 
kicker, ever ready to kick or fight at the least indication 
of having any thing pointed toward her, or touched on the 
quarters. Pull a line under a colt's tail until he kicks ; 
repeat the trick a few times, and you have a horse that will 
surely kick if the rein is caught under the tail. Here, 
then, we see in principle the cause of kicking in harness, 
and the true policy of preventing it. Now, the colt is 
pricked and frightened to kick in the harness by chance 
causes. The rein is caught under the tail by chance, 
which excites fear and kicking. The tug touches the 
quarters or the whifiietree, or cross-piece, from some cause, 
usually the breaking of the harness, or some other disar- 

64 



KICKING IN HARNESS. * 65 

rangement, and a naturally gentle driving colt is taken una* 
wares, the result of which is, he is frightened, and kicks. 
The heels coming in contact with the shafts or whiffletree 
increases this fear : the result of it all is, the horse is ex- 
citable and dangerous in that position, possibly so con- 
firmed in kicking as to make him entirely unsafe after- 
wards in harness. 

I wish to call your special attention to these facts and 
from them shape your plans of treatment. You notice, in 
the first place, that I base my success on the breaking and 
driving of colts so successfully to my getting at the very 
root of this trouble at the commencement ; that my very 
first step with the colt is to overcome all this possible 
fear of being touched, or of any thing striking or coming 
against the quarters. If a colt has learned to kick in 
harness, I aim to overcome the fear and inclination of 
the horse to kick, by a counteracting impression upon the 
mind, and the whole difficulty becomes simple and easy to 
control. If a horse is confirmed in the habit, as before, I 
aim, as the true condition of my success, to remove the 
cause by counteracting the habit as strongly as I can, the 
whole point being, after the horse is once checked and 
the habit is under control, that every step is made secure, 
in preventing a repetition of it, until the horse will not, 
and, even under great aggravation, cannot be excited to 
kick. Now the intensity of the habit or not, and the 
temperament of the horse, must determine the treatment, 
and how much to do. It is certain any thing short of 
being thorough is liable to result in failure ; hence, if you 
cannot by simple means check and overcome the habit, 
to be safe, then go back to indirect means, holding and 
forcing obedience. The colder or more sulky the nature, 
in some cases, the more your success must depend upon 
the reacting sensibility of the nervous system. 

In breaking the colt, all that is necessary to do is to 
overcome the impression of fear, and all inclination to 
kick is at once removed. In colts of an ordinary good 
character we can do this easily by the control of the 
double draw-hitch and touching a pole against the quar- 
ters. If wild, strong and bad, this would not be sufficient. 
The second course of subjection will enable easy control, 



66 KICKING IN HARNESS. 

with rare exceptions, in ten to fifteen minutes ; while colts 
that do not. yield to this must be subjected to passive 
treatment and the bit, which, if advisable, may be sup- 
plemented with the foot-strap, over draw-check, power- 
reins or kicking-straps. We will presume the horse is an 
ordinary six or eight year old colt ; is a nervous, excitable 
kicker ; is all right ; but is afraid of the noise of the 
wagon, especially so if any thing touches him. First, 
take him out in the yard ; and if you are a handy fellow, 
and the horse will bear it, try the first method of subjec- 
tion. Do not expect you can succeed by it, but it is a 
strong help, and makes the next more impressive ; throw 
and roll him a dozen times ; be careful in doing this to be 
on a well-sodded piece of ground. An ordinary horse 
would now yield to the bit readily : however, do not be 
over-sanguine ; your aim is to be sure. Immediately fol- 
low with the second course, and do not be at all timid. 
Make the lesson thorough. In the meantime, as for the 
colt described in a previous chapter, pole the quarters until 
there is no fear or resistance to being touched anywhere 
between or around the legs, or under the tail. Now put 
on the harness, and in nine cases out of ten you can 
carry out your control easily with the breaking-bit. Make 
the horse feel the full extent of your power upon the 
mouth, which will disconcert him greatly. Now pole him 
as before. A good way is to tie the hair of the tail into 
a knot, and run the pole through the hair above it, so that 
the pole will strike the quarters where the whiffletree or 
cross-piece does. Let the pole be pressed against the 
quarters, as if by chance, repeating until there is no fear 
of it. You should have an assistant to do this, while you 
hold the reins. Now make the horse move at the same 
time the pole is allowed to strike the quarters, until there 
is no fear of it and it is borne safely. 

If you are a farmer, and you wish to work sure, if the 
horse is at all doubtful, do not chance driving before a 
wagon with poor, brittle shafts, or to a good carriage; 
because there is a possible danger of the horse kicking 
when attached to it, which would be likely to damage or 
break it, causing serious loss. Better go sure at a little 
extra trouble. Fix up a pole-rig, as before described, to 



KICKING IN HARNESS. 



67 




A good sketch of a nervous, irritable kicker. 



drive the green colt in. One little point about the pole- 
rig. The poles will not be likely to go through the tugs ; 
and, if they would, they would be too low. Attach a piece 
of rope, or a strap, to the 
saddle, tying to the tur- 
rets, improvising loops 
at the ends for the poles 
to run through, but short 
enough so that the cross- 
piece will come upon the 
quarters at the point 
where the cross-piece 
of the shaft comes. The 
whole thing is a tempo- 
rary affair : you can tie 
the tugs with a piece of 
cord to the cross-piece. 

You are now ready to make the step of driving in shafts, 
which is, as before explained, usually a point of risk with or- 
dinary shafts. If the horse should kick, he cannot do any 
damage. Usually the horse will drive nicely. You are 
now to test your subject thoroughly, backing him against 
the cross-piece, turning right or left, having the poles 
come heavily against the legs, &c. Drive until cool, and 
proved to be thoroughly safe. If not, repeat the les- 
son. We will suppose the kicker to be a strong, reckless 
fighter, of the worst kind. There are two classes: the 

horse of great activity and 
endurance; and the strong, 
tough, hardy, but cool 
fighter. If you have a 
black, dull iron-gray or 
sorrel, and sometimes a 
bay with large eyes, with 
much white, the lids thick, 
and long from eyes to ears, 

and ears rather long, a 
A good sketch of a bad fighter. deep ^^ a ^^ bon ^ 

muscular animal, you have a kicker of the worst kind. It is 
hazardous for you to get him very warm or sweaty, as then 
he will become really desperate, while his determination 




68 KICKING IN HARNESS. 

and courage are so great that it is difficult to make a point 
upon him before producing this condition. Yet, some- 
times, horses that are of a very bad character will work in 
very easily, remaining frequently, after one lesson, perfectly 
gentle. The point is to work sure and quick. The course 
I now pursue is to feel carefully to see if I can apply pas- 
sive treatment safely : if I can, I apply it quickly, with 
about all the power I can. If you can make this point 
without trouble, the rest is easy. If the horse kicks hard 
when the quarters or legs are touched with a pole, it is 
nothing : he will soon quit that, and stand quietly to be 
poled and touched as you please. The best way is now 
to bring up your pole-rig (if you have one, and, if you have 
not, make one), so that the cross-piece will come against 
the quarters, and keep doing so until you see no cringing 
or indication of kicking ; now gradually remove your pres- 
sure as you can safely, and, at the last, turn the cord 
quickly into the double hitch, and hold your point with it. 
Follow up as before, touching the cross-piece against the 
quarters, and as the horse gives up let up on him, at the 
same time encouraging by kind treatment. Have a little 
oats, apples, sugar, and salt, or something else of which 
the horse is fond, and give him a little as he does well. 
Now put on the harness, and carry control to the mouth 
direct with the breaking-bit. First drive around with the 
harness until you feel that you have the horse well in 
hand. Now attach to the poles, driving and testing hard, 
in all cases making the horse submit perfectly to the con- 
trol of the lines, though the shafts or poles strike the heels. 
No matter how well the horse works, try him carefully 
next day, and try him thoroughly, before you take the 
chance of putting him before a buggy. As a general rule, 
one or two sharp lessons will make a horse work safely. 
At least half the kickers taken in hand to illustrate princi- 
ples before the class remain thoroughly broken of this 
habit, and can be driven afterwards safely. But the way 
a horse works in and yields to control must determine 
how much to do. When I have a good place, I some- 
times, if I find the subject a bad one, subject the case, 
first, to first and second methods, because easily applied, 
and make a powerful impression : I now, if I think advisa- 



LARGE CRUPPER. 69 

ble, follow up with passive treatment. The second or 
cold, sulky class must be treated with the third method, or 
passive treatment. This class of kickers, though appear- 
ing to be very bad, usually yield easily to this treatment. 
If you subject them to the first and second methods you 
will be likely to fail, for you cannot always make sufficient 
impression upon the nervous system of such to control 
and hold them under subjection as you desire. When 
they warm up they become sulky and reckless. But when 
this excitement passes off, and the nervous system becomes 
cool, this temperament will invariably work in safety, 
making a very gentle, reliable horse. I could refer to a 
large number of remarkable cases proving this rule. The 
Hettrick horse of New York, the Hillman horse of Port- 
land, with many noted horses, prove this. I often excite 
suspicion by stating that a horse that had shown a very 
sulky, bad character, after giving up, would be found next 
day, when cool, to be perfectly gentle. 

There are many horses that will drive all right until 
irritated by some chance cause. One horse is all right, 
but will kick if the rein is caught under the tail ; 
while another is all right if his head is under good con- 
trol. If the rein irritates, and is the only cause of annoy- 
ance, you can easily overcome the whole difficulty as 
follows : — 

LARGE CRUPPER, 

Take the crupper, and wind the part that comes under 
the tail with a strip of flannel 
until it is about two inches 
in diameter. If the tail is 
stiff and likely to chafe, cover 
this flannel with a piece of 
chamois-skin. The proper 
course is to put on the crup- 
per, and leave it on night and 
day for a week, and, when 
driving, for some time after- 
wards. This crupper is so large, that the line coming 
below it cannot be felt or held ; while leaving it on a few 
days and nights wears out the undue sensibility of the 
part. If the horse is nervous and sensitive, and needs to 




70 



THE OVERDRAW CHECK. 



be simply held in check, either of the following methods 
can be used. 

THE OVERDRAW CHECK 

will now work well. But care must be taken to apply it 
rightly, or there will be cause for disappointment in its use. 
The object is now to simply disable the horse from his 
purpose at the least attempt to kick, which we can easily 
do, especially while in single harness. The best way to 
do this is as follows : — 

Get a small steel bit, and hang it loosely above the 
driving-bit in the bridle. Put the bridle on the head : 




Overdraw check for kickers. 

now provide yourself with a fine, strong piece of hemp or 
cotton cord, about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, 
and sixteen feet in length. Put the centre of this cord 
back of the ears, run the ends back through the rings of 
the small bit and through the gag-runners, which should 
be close up to the ears. (See cut) Pass them now 
through the turrets and back through a ring, which must 
be attached as far back upon the crupper as possible, and 
attach the ends to the shafts on each side of the hips. At 
first this check should be drawn short, to bring the head 
as high as the horse can bear. The head is now not only 
high, but the least effort to kick will draw the check 



THE OVERDRAW CHECK. 71 

tighter, and consequently pull the head up in proportion, 
thereby preventing the horse from doing any mischief. 
As there is manifested less disposition to kick, give more 
freedom to the head. When the animal proves safe, 
change, and use the common check-rein, at first rather 
short. A nicely rounded strap may be used, instead of 
the cord. It requires very careful and thorough treat- 
ment to reform a slow, reckless kicker, especially if the 
nervous system is much weakened in this direction. _ Or, 
use the check-purchase upon the reins direct, by either 
letting the cords extend to the wagon, instead of being 




Simple Overdraw Check, to prevent turning round, or to kick if touched 
with reins. 

passed over the hips and tied to the shafts ; or attach this 
check by buckles to each of the reins, forward of the sad- 
dle. By this arrangement, when you pull heavily, you 
pull on this check in the same proportion that you do 
upon the jaw. The consequence is, a powerful lever pur- 
chase on the head, up and back. You can regulate your 
control by buckling this overdraw part longer or shorter 
to the reins ; or you can have your overdraw ordinarily 
long, and have two strong pieces of elastic connecting the 
reins with the bit, so that when you pull hard the elastics 
would give enough to bring full purchase on the overdraw. 
The following very simple form of overdraw will be 



72 THE OVERDRAW CHECK. 

found very valuable, because so simple and easily made. 
If you have a good piece of cord, such as I use, or any 
small but strong cord, you can make a rig in a few min- 
utes, that enables you to drive a pretty bad horse with 
entire ease. First, take a cord eighteen to twenty feet in 
length. Put the centre on top of the head under the 
bridle, about ten or twelve inches from this centre ; 
double and knot about two inches from this centre, and 
we have now two check or gag runners which will come 
up near the ears. Resting the centre of the cord on top 
of the head, pass each end down and through the mouth, 
then up and through the loops before named, then back 




A cheap, simple means of driving a runaway kicker. 

through the turrets to the wagon, same as reins. The 
higher the loops for gag-runners, the more purchase up 
and back. Any way you get great power upon the 
mouth and head ; or, you can, instead of crossing the 
cords through the mouth, run them through the rings of 
the bit, and bring back up and through the loop on same 
side. 

This gives all the power and control of the best flat reins, 
without the expense. You can use a bit if you wish, bypass- 
ing cord through the ring on each side and back again to 
the gag-runner. Let the bridle be made to fit the head 
closely. Between the ears, a little inside of each, have a 
little loop, sewed on large enough to pass through two 



KICKING-STRAPS. 



73 



small straps. Now attach to ordinary light check-straps a 
small steel bit, which is to be 
independent of the driving- 
bit ; pass them through the 
loops above described, on top 
of the bridle and back to the 
check-hook in the saddle; 
make a little tight, and you 
have a powerful check, which 
will keep an ordinary sen- 
sitive horse helpless, and en- 
able driving many kickers 
with entire safety. During 
my early career I used the 
ordinary 

KICKING STRAPS 




Showing how to make a cheap rig, 
with a small rope, to drive a 
runaway kicker. 



with much success. At this 
time they were the principal 
means of reliance for break- 
ing kickers. I include here 
a cut of them. 

Have made four straps, like common hames straps ; two 
long enough to buckle around the hind-legs above the 
gambrels, and two a little shorter, so as to be in propor- 
tion, to buckle around just below the gambrel. The 
straps should be an inch and a quarter wide, good thick 

leather, and the buckles 
should be heavy. Now 
have made two D's just 
twice as long as the straps 
are wide. This D should 
have the straight part a 
little rounding, and the 
corners not quite to a 
sharp point. Put a long 
and a short strap on each 
D, and buckle them 
around the 4iind-legs of 
the horse • the long strap 
above and the short one below the gambrel, bringing 




The old kicking-straps to break a bad 
kicker. 



74 



THE FOOT-STRAP. 



the D in front of the leg. These we designate kicking- 

STRAPS. 

Put a strong, well-fitting rope halter on the head, tie a 
strong two-inch ring on the end of the hitching part, 
which should be of a length to extend between the fore- 
legs, over and just back of the belly-band. Then take a 
piece of strong manila rope, long enough to extend from 
the ring on the end of the halter back to each hind-leg. 
Pass the end of this through the ring to the centre, and 
tie each end carefully into the D's on the straps, the 
whole so arranged in length that the horse can travel 
easily and naturally. Now, as soon as the horse kicks, 

the most severe punish- 
ment must result upon 
the nose. Sometimes, in- 
stead of being around the 
gambrels (as in cut), I put 
them above the ankle at 
.first, and when the horse 
gets afraid to kick and 
will drive easier, attach 
to the legs higher up. 
Attach one end of a 
strap or rope around the 
fore-leg below the fetlock ; 
pass the other end back 
over the belly-band of the harness and back to the seat, 
where it can be held as a rein in the hand. 

THE FOOT-STKAP. 

This is a valuable means of control : it enables carry- 
ing out in the easiest and most practical manner, and with 
perfect safety, what Rarey tried to do by tying up the fore- 
leg, which deprived the horse of ability to travel ; and a 
really bad kicker will balance on one leg when so tied, 
and kick, whereas by pulling the leg from under him on 
the instant there is shown a purpose to kick, the horse is 
thrown off his balance, disabled, and disconcerted, so that 
he can neither kick nor run ; and this can be done on the 
very instant of resistance, since the leg can be controlled 
at will from the seat. It is especially valuable on a doubt- 




THE FOOT-STRAP. 75 

ful, reckless, runaway colt. Attach another such strap to 
the other foot, and you have the most powerful horse 
helpless. I rarely use the foot-strap or overdraw checks 
now, as they are only palliative compared to the principle 
of bringing the horse under direct control by the proper 
course of subjection, and carrying out that control by the 
bit. It is only when the horse has no mouth, and is just 
cunning and treacherous enough to be watching for ad- 
vantage and then liable to kick, that I would use a check 
or overdraw. The foot-strap may be found frequently of 
decided advantage in driving a colt the first time to a 
wagon or carriage, when you desire safety in guarding 
against a possible chance of resisting your control. I do 
all this now by getting the horse under quick and sure 
control ; and when I hitch up a horse I have him safe. 

The question is asked, How long will the horse stay 
broke, and what would you do to break a horse of kick- 
ing ? Here you give us quite a variety of treatment. In 
the first place, if you have a bad horse to break, calculate 
to take a half-day at least for the job. Then go to work 
carefully and thoroughly ; believe you are doing well to 
succeed in the time named, and you will be encouraged 
and gratified when you find your success complete in an 
hour or two. If a horse is a wildish, fresh, courageous 
kicker, and the habit has been excited by fear, or natural 
meanness of disposition, then by all means the regular 
course of subjection is the surest, easiest, and best, since 
it overcomes directly the cause of the whole trouble ; when 
by driving and using the horse kindly, observing to test 
him carefully the next day, and if found at all sensitive, 
or not fully up to the standard of being entirely gentle, 
not attempting to jump or resist in any way when the 
cross-piece comes against the quarters, &c, make that 
point by all means before you go farther or attempt more. 
The point is to fix the character so that it is safe ; and if 
the first lesson does not do this, do no more until you can. 
There is no need at all to make a failure : it is so easy to 
do, and only requires being careful and thorough to suc- 
ceed, that there can be no excuse for the want of perfect 
success. If the horse is a savage kicker, one that 
kicks because he has learned to do it, and is one of 



76 THE FOOT-STRAP. 

courage and bottom, you have frequently a horse that re- 
quires very careful, thorough treatment. If of a nervous- 
sanguine temperament, something like No. 78 or 79 on 
pages 74-75, take a thorough course : subject rapidly to first, 
second, and third methods ; either perhaps would do ; the 
third, or passive treatment would, in most cases, without 
trouble, but the point is to make as profound an impres- 
sion and as sure one as you can without giving any chance 
for pull-backs. Stop all inclination to kick before you 
attempt to harness and drive. Usually there will be a 
struggle to fight you back when you attempt this, but you 
must be ready to force this point at all hazards, if neces- 
sary going back again to give your subjective course ; but 
remember you cannot very well repeat passive treatment, as 
the mouth will be usually so sore as not to admit of it. Do 
all you can with the first and second. If, in driving, the 
horse sulks, and will not go ahead against the bit, which is 
frequently the case, put on the double draw-hitch, and fol- 
low up with single hitch ahead, as for a double balker, 
until you make the point easily. You may now in some 
cases use the foot-strap, though I do not find it necessary, 
holding your point of forcing to yield to the shafts strik- 
ing the quarters ; making this point, hold it at all hazards. 
When the horse will get cool, he will work decidedly 
better ; work carefully ; make all you can by kindness. 
The moment a horse yields to me, I treat him with the 
greatest kindness, rewarding him with presents of some- 
thing of which he is fond. If the tail is the sensitive 
part, then put a large crupper under it, as given in another 
part of this chapter. If a horse that drives all right, but 
at times is liable to kick, most cases will submit easily to 
either form of overdraw-check. Do not, if you can pos- 
sibly avoid it, handle horses in the presence of specta- 
tors : get them out of the way at all hazards. A sensi- 
tive woman should on no account be anywhere near you : 
nothing will touch their feelings so keenly as seeming 
abuse to a horse. Do not let any one see you, if in your 
power to prevent it, until your success is sure. Treat the 
horse now with great kindness ; clean and feed him, but 
keep to work, testing and holding your point until cool ; 
then your success will be surprising and most gratifying 



KICKING WHILE HARNESSING. 77 

to all. Another point I would urge, before closing this 
chapter : make up your mind, at all hazards, that you will 
not get mad yourself. The moment you give way to this 
sort of feeling, you are throwing away your strongest and 
best hold ; and besides, as I have shown you, it is the 
best point of your success to keep positive control of 
yourself. 

KICKING WHILE TT A "FINESSING. 

Put on the war-bridle (small loop), and work up with it 
sharply right and left a few times, then pull down tight, 
and tie into a half hitch. While holding the cord in the 
left hand, step back, and pass the hand from the shoulders 
to the hind parts gently. If this is borne, take the har- 
ness in the right hand, and work it back gently over the 
back. As this is borne, untie the cord, and tie down, so 
as to give the mouth a little more freedom. Now go back, 
and handle as before, being careful to be gentle : if there 
is resistance, punish sharply, tie down short again, and 
put the harness on. When there is submission, untie, 
then work back as before : at the least indication of re- 
sistance, tremble on the cord until the horse will bear the 
harness, while free from restraint. 

KICKING WHILE GROOMING. 

Some horses are so thin-skinned, that they can scarce- 
ly bear a currycomb on the flanks or legs, and when 
excited by rough treatment and too severe use of the curry- 
comb, are easily made vicious to handle or groom. Put 
on the war-bridle, and after working up with it, hold 
tightly, and with the left hand use the currycomb on the 
back, gradually working to the sensitive part : as there is 
submission, give a little more freedom to the mouth, and 
work back lightly. If the horse seems unable to bear the 
currycomb, use the brush instead, and that, if necessary, 
lightly. Work lightly and indirectly to the sensitive part, 
at the same time speaking gently. It is almost impossible 
to overcome this habit, if there is not gentleness and kind 
treatment 

The currycomb is used too much by most grooms. A 
sharp-toothed, brass currycomb must not be used, on a thin- 



78 KICKING WHILE SHOEING. 

skinned horse : use a brush. I should want a horse to 
kick a man out of the stall, who would use a currycomb 
with needless severity, or be otherwise needlessly harsh. 

KICKING WHILE SHOEING. 

If at the start the colt were subjected to the simple 
course of subjection, and the feet handled and taken up 
gently, there would be no trouble whatever. Nothing 
is done until the colt is taken to the shop to be shod, 
when, possibly excited by fear, and the rude efforts of 
the smith to shoe him, he will learn to kick and fight with 
energy. The moment you take a horse's foot, and he 
learns he can kick you away, it is not safe for you to try 
to control him by main strength ; for if a strong, coura- 
geous horse, he is not only liable to injure you, but defy 
your efforts. We once in a while get horses of this char- 
acter that are wholly unmanageable ; frequently old horses 
that are so bad they never have been shod. 

Any ordinary case will yield readily to the war-bridle. 
If this will not do, try the double hitch ; but few will resist 
this ; and it will do the work so quickly and safely, that, 
so far as it goes, it is unrivalled. If this fails, then subject 
to passive treatment. In the mean time, attach a rope or 
strap around the hind leg, and with it, pull the leg back 
and keep pulling it, so long as the horse will kick and re- 
sist. When the foot is given back freely, then pull it 
forward until submissive. Take it now with the hand. 
As there is submission, let up. At the last, use the dou- 
ble hitch or war-bridle, which will give you all the control 
you need. Each foot must be treated alike. We control 
the worst horses before the class, by this treatment, in 
from five to twenty minutes. Any ordinary colt or horse 
will stand to be shod gently by blindfolding, or tying a 
blanket over the head, so that the horse cannot see. 

KICKING IN STALL. 

This is one of those habits that require care and judg- 
ment to guard against danger. Let the horse know, by 
some signal or command, of your presence and intention to 
approach. Many horses of the gentlest character would 
kick if approached suddenly and unexpectedly ; and again, 



KICKING IN STALL. 79 

many horses that are gentle, but a little peevish, will not 
bear being approached without a little care in attracting 
attention. The motion of the ears and lips, and expres- 
sion of the eye, will always notify of danger. And here 
let me warn the reader, that, however careful he may be 
in not going too near the horse, there must not be a 
semblance of fear shown in language or actions. The 
command must be low and positive, indicating power. If 
the horse will not move round and seem to be distracted 
from a positive intention, stand still, or walk off, carelessly 
whistling, in such a way that the horse does not see that 
you feel defeated. 

If you have his attention, repeat the words "get around, 
or over," with a positiveness that must be obeyed, looking 
at the eye as if you could and would overcome all opposi- 
tion. When you see the horse shrink from your gaze, glide 
up to the shoulder, before the mind can be made to act, 
and the next instant let the left hand be passed along the 
neck and down the head to the nose-piece of the halter, 
and you are safe, as the horse cannot now kick, strike, or 
bite you. I have repeatedly got to the shoulder of horses 
in this way, that would kick and strike the stall just after 
I passed, yet not be struck : it is a feat, however, that 
must not be attempted unless necessary. In going out, 
the rule is the same. Pull the head towards you, looking 
at the eye sternly ; this will throw the quarters from you, 
and at the instant you let go, glide out, and you are safe. 

If the horse is vicious and dangerous, he should be 
subjected to the regular treatment until there will be no 
trouble ; or, put on the war-bridle. Lead the animal into 
the stall, then step back opposite the hips and say, " Get 
around." If there is not prompt obedience, give a sharp 
jerk, which will throw the hind part from you. Repeat 
this, and in a short time the horse will learn to step around 
promptly when commanded, and allow being approached. 
If the horse is persistent, leave the cord on, the small 
loop being left larger and passed through the rings of the 
halter. As you now step out, retain the cord in the hand 
and hang or tie the end to a nail on the post, leaving 
sufficient length to permit the horse entire freedom to the 
halter. Now, when you desire to go into the stall, if the 



80 KICKING IN STALL. 

horse does not step around when commanded, untie or 
unhook the end of the cord, and give a jerk upon it, which 
will bring the animal to his senses. Leaving this on a few 
days, caressing and giving presents of sugar, apples, or 
any thing of which the horse is fond, will soon not only 
break up the confidence, but so enlist the attention that 
your approach will be looked for, and invited, by stepping 
around, and endeavoring to reach toward you for the 
present. 

I would here observe that there are very many men who 
are not fit to have any thing to do with a sensitive, well- 
bred horse. They are either so coarse and harsh as to 
excite resentment and hate, or so dull and ignorant that 
they can not or will not see that they must both conceal 
fear and avoid danger. They will not do either. They 
abuse and show so much fear- as both to excite and en- 
courage resistance ; and, without the genius or tact to cor- 
rect the cause of mischief, they attribute all the trouble to 
the natural viciousness of the animal. 

Sensitive horses should not be teased in the stall, or 
while cleaning, by pinching, pricking, or whipping, to 
"show off," as the term is. Gentlemen who own fine 
horses should be very particular about this ; and a man 
who would in any way persist in such treatment should 
be kicked out of the stable. 



BALKING. 



This habit is the outgrowth of ignorance and bad treat- 
ment. It is also, when attempted to be done by the ordinary 
system of rough, exciting force, seemingly one of the most 
difficult habits to break up. The moment you go to whip- 
ping and pounding a horse, as is usually done, you not only 
irritate to greater resistance, but blunt the sensibilities to 
such a degree, that in a short time the greatest abuse may be 
inflicted without having any more seeming effect than to 
make the horse more stubborn. When a horse finds you 
cannot make him go, he will balk at the least cause 01 
annoyance, or want of it. While in harness you should not, 
by any means, commence your tactics by treatment which 
forces you to defeat, and makes the horse worse. 

WHAT KIND TREATMENT AND A LITTLE PATIENT MANAGE- 
MENT DID. AN INCIDENT OF EARLY EXPERIENCE. 

When but a little more than a boy, I acquired a great 
passion for trading horses, frequently trading five or six 
times a week. In this way I got on my hands from a sharp 
horse -jockey, a pony mare, nine years old, that was known 
as the most stubborn and reckless balker ever known in the 
country. She had been through the hands of the best horse- 
men in the country, but, proving wholly unmanageable, the 
owner would trade her off as quickly as possible. When I 
got her, the man who traded her to me, laughed and said 
he "guessed I had something this time that would 
stick me; that if I could drive her I could beat any 
living horseman; that every possible means had been 
tried to break her, and she beat them all." I said in reply, 
that I did not anticipate any real trouble in making hei 
work for me. I looked the mare over carefully, and made 

81 



82 BALKING. 

up my mind that she was a bad one ; still, I did not have 
the most remote idea that I could not make her work, yet 
I did not know just how I could do it. I have one quality 
of nature, and it is about all that I could ever feel nature did 
for me — it is that of great perseverance. Indeed, whatever 
my success, it is all the simple growth of great perseverance. 
First, I improvised a cart and harness. I next went into an 
orchard, and filled my pockets with the best apples I could 
find. I now pulled the cart, leading the mare into a by- 
road, took part of the apples and cut them into small pieces ; 
next I provided myself with a switch, and, with harness on, 
led the mare to the top of the hill ; standing at her shoulder, 
I tapped her on the hip with the switch until she started, at 
the same time saying, " get up ! " After going a few feet, I 
called out, " whoa ! " holding by the rein to do so. Imme- 
diately I gave a little apple, then I repeated this operation, 
but gradually going a little farther back each time, but care- 
fully rewarding, for each movement of going ahead, with 
some apple. This I repeated until I could stand behind and 
she would do the same, but carefully rewarding her obedi- 
ence. This little point established, I now led her back to 
the hill-top, and attached her to the cart. Again, I com- 
menced as before, first standing at the shoulder, and going 
a little farther back and carefully rewarding at each succes- 
sive step of obedience, until I could, as before, stand behind 
and make the start and stop at command, but always care- 
fully rewarding, but not giving but little of the apple at a 
time. I soon got on the axletree, and repeated as before ; 
then with the seat, letting her go each time a little farther, 
until I could go for some distance. Gradually I repeated 
this up the hill. Next day, at first, I worked cautiously, 
until I got her attention, and from the start she responded 
to every command. In a few hours I could stop and start 
her at will in a buggy, and she would work gently and 
promptly as required anywhere. Now this was but a little 
common-sense in the way of management. This sort ot 
tact is always to mingle with your treatment of the balker. 
An ordinary young horse, of good disposition, can usually be 
made to go on by a little patience and tact in winning and 
humoring him to go, if possible not to let the horse feel or 
know that he has balked. You should be careful about 



BALKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 83 

removing, so far as you can, any cause of needless irritation. 
Perhaps the collar fits badly, or the shoulders are sore. If the 
horse is compelled to pull hard, either from being too heavily 
loaded, the steepness of the hill, or the depth of the mud, 
be very careful to aid all you can by not letting him pull 
so far, or so much at a time, that he gets tired out and 
blown. Second, stop him where he can start the load most 
easily, resting often. Encourage all you can, coming to the 
head and speaking kindly, rubbing the nose, &c. ; in this way 
you can get a horse that is not over-steady and honest to 
pull heavily and faithfully, that an effort to rush through 
under the whip would soon make balk badly. If a horse in 
a single team balks, first let him stand a while, ease up on 
the collar, fix the bridle, or gently take him by the head, 
always breaking the force of the load by turning a little 
sideways. Any means of disconcerting the horse will fre- 
quently enable making your point. Any of the ordinary 
tricks of twisting the tongue, putting cobbles in the ears and 
dirt in the mouth, really amount to little or nothing. For a 
simple trick that is perfectly harmless, blindfolding is about 
the best way of making your point. This will disconcert 
so much that he will move on all right. If in double har- 
ness, get to the heads, turn them to the right or left, and with 
a little tact you can usually get the horse to go on; this 
may do when a horse has merely learned to balk. Every 
time you fail to let such have their own way, and often 
when you do, they will balk in defiance of any amount of 
kindness and good management. To break up the habit, 
you must be able to force the horse from his position, then 
win the better nature into co-operation, and you can break 
any horse, old or young, of the habit easily. 

BALKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 

This is to the horseman a most perplexing and difficult 
balker to manage. There is no chance to get at him to 
make him work. The whip is the usual remedy, which will 
only make matters worse ; yet nothing is easier to do than to 
make this class of balkers come to terms, if you will only go 
to work properly. 

Various ways are available. First, after being harnessed, 
put on the war-bridle, with part over the neck up. to the ears. 



84 BALKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 

If you have no gloves on, get a broomstick or any ordinary 
piece of round pole, about six or eight feet from the head, 
wind the cord around your stick so that it will not slip, stand 
quartering, and give a quick, energetic jerk, gradually re- 
peating until the horse will come forward promptly without 
any pulling. This point must be made, and some horses will 
fight it quite hard for some little time. Usually it is submit- 
ted to in five to ten minutes. Be careful that the cord is 
under the bridle, not over it, on top of the head. Now 
splice a piece of good stiff sapling on the end of your 
wagon-tongue, so that the pole will be extended in length 
about three feet beyond its ordinary length, and bore 
a hole in the end. You are now ready to make the next 
step : hitch up the horse to the wagon as usual ; tie your 
war-bridle cord to the end of the pole, by passing through 
the hole and tying firmly, giving length to allow of entire 
freedom, so long as the horse will do his part. Tie back the 
whifiietree of the gentle horse. If he will not go when com- 
manded, start up the gentle horse quickly : this brings the 
wagon and pole ahead, and the first the horse knows he is 
jerked off his feet, and obliged to start and keep going. 
After going a short distance, stop ; then say "get up," start- 
ing the gentle horse quickly, which will bring the other off 
his feet again. About the third time he will be glad to go 
when the other does, and you have him all right. Test him 
hard, so that there is no inclination to fight back. A little 
more complicated way is the following, which is better, and is 
more especially adapted for balking before the plough : Put 
on the war-bridle as before, and shown in the class instruc- 
tion, and pull ahead, following up carefully and thoroughly, 
until the horse will come ahead freely. Next get a good 
stiff pole, about twelve feet in length, bore a three-quarter- 
inch hole, three or four inches from each end. The length 
of the pole, you see, must be adapted to the length of the 
horse and tongue. Lay this pole over that of the wagon, 
the end over that of the true horse's whiffletree, and tie 
firmly on top with a piece of cord. Now step forward, and 
tie a piece of small rope from one hame-ring to the other, of 
the horses, under the pole, so as to be just taut when in 
position. Pass another piece of the same sized cord around 
the pole, and tie it into the true horse's hame-ring short 



BALKING IN DOUBLE HARNESS. 85 

enough to hold the pole in the centre. Or you can get 
a ring that will slip over the pole easily, and from it extend a 
cord or strap to each hame-ring, and run the pole through 
this ring which will hold it in place. Tie the cord on the 
head now to the pole through the hole at the end, and leav- 
ing it just long enough to give freedom, so long as the horses 
keep even ; but as soon as there is refusal to go, the strength 
of the true horse is brought by the pole on the head, which 
will compel going ahead. (See cut.) Start and stop the 
horses until obedience is secured. This pole may be left on 
an hour to half a day as desired. 

The horse should not be required at first to use much 
strength in drawing. Let this be required gradually, as th'"ire 




Pole applied to balker, as shown when attached to the off horse. 

is obedience and willingness inspired to work. It is a grave 
fault to try to make the horse work immediately. This must 
not be attempted. First, create a willingness to start when 
commanded, then gradually increase the load until it be- 
comes habitual to draw when commanded. I forgot to men- 
tion that when the purchase is obtained by extending the 
wagon-tongue, at first let the wagon be empty. As you make 
the horse go as desired, then gradually put in load. Either 
of these methods, when applied properly, will break a horse 
of the habit. It gives all the advantage needed, and only a 
little care is necessary in carrying out the principle and prac- 
tice to break any horse easily of balking. 



8Q A SIMPLER WAY. 

A SIMPLER WAY. 

Sometimes a horse will respond to the following means 
readily. Young horses, of a nervous temperament, will be 
most likely to submit surest and easiest. Take a small but 
strong cord, same as I use for war-bridle if obtainable, about 
twenty-two feet in length ; double it, and place the centre 
under the balky horse's tail, same as a crupper ; twist the cords 
two or three times, and bring them forward, through the tur- 
ret and across to the hame-ringof the gentle horse, or extend 
forward, and tie to the end of the wagon-tongue. Tie back 
the gentle horse's end of the double tie. Now the purchase 
is directly under the tail, which will make some young horses 
work all right in a few minutes ; but others, of an old and 
stubborn character, are likely not to submit to it. If colts 
are made gentle as I direct by the second method of sub- 
jection, there would be no inclination to balk, double or 
single. 

BALKING SINGLE. 

This is more difficult to overcome, but by no means im- 
possible, even when extremely bad, to break up easily. We 
have the right principle, and can carry our control to any ex- 
treme desired, making success certain with reasonable effort. 
If I desire to be particular, I hitch up the horse as if to make 
a journey, making no effort to break him ; but I am ready for 
this point when the time comes. I let the horse go anywhere 
he will, if I can get him to go at all, until I get him into 
some back street or field. Now is my time ; for I caution 
you, it does no good, as a rule, to work a balker in a barn, 
and then expect he will drive all right out of doors. You 
will usually find him as stubborn as ever. Secondly, you 
must not try to break the horse in the presence of people, 
and be very particular to be where ladies cannot see you. If 
the horse balks with you in a public place or street, get him 
out of it as easily and with as little excitement as you can. 
I urge this upon you strongly : wait until you have privacy 
and time to make your success sure and practical, without 
annoying the feelings of others. Arriving at such a place as 
you wish to subject the horse to treatment, make him balk. 
Unhitch him, and tie up the tugs and reins carefully ; put on 
a halter, and submit him to the second method of subjection, 



BALKING SINGLE. 87 

reversing once or twice. Make this point thoroughly. 
Now put on the double hitch, and make the next point 
thoroughly, of making the horse lead without an impulse of 
resistance. Then turn the cord into the simple form of war- 
bridle, and pull ahead as for double balking, or to lead until 
that point is well made : be very careful that the cord is 
under the bridle. Now tie the cord into the turret, and drive 
around by the reins, making the horse start and stop as de- 
sired, and for which reward liberally. You are simply, all the 
time, only preparing for the real tug of battle, by weakening 
the horse's confidence sufficiently to be able to force him 
over the point of resistance when hitched, and thoroughly 
overcome all inclination of repeating the habit. It is easy 
enough to make the horse go and work quite well for the 
present ; but the real point to be made is to get up so thor- 
ough a re-action in the mind, that there will be no inclination 
to balk afterwards. So when you hitch to the wagon, work 
as gently as you can, at first feel your way, stopping and 
starting with all the delicacy and encouragement you would 
do without the resource of power. 

If you have made previous work thorough, the horse will be 
likely to work in nicely. If so, work slowly and gently, with the 
utmost kindness, until he is cool and entirely over the excite- 
ment. It is, however, often the case the horse will resist with 
great stubborness when you hitch him to shafts. Try the simple 
form of war-bridle first : it will usually make the horse yield 
the point ; but if he fights it hard, increase your power by 
using the double hitch, which will rarely fail. If, however, the 
horse is a stubborn, plucky brute, unhitch, and go back at 
once to the second course of subjection, now occasionally 
giving a keen cut of the whip across the tip of the nose, 
which will hurt intensely. Follow up again as before, hitch- 
ing up and driving : when there is prompt obedience, reward 
with the kindest treatment. You should always carefully 
test the horse once or twice the next day, and see there is no 
intention left to repeat the resistance. If all horses were alike 
I could give a definite rule ; but, as they are not, we must 
simply harmonize the efforts to the case. Ordinary cases 
yield readily to one sharp lesson. The second method of 
subjection is by all odds the most reliable and valuable means 
of breaking single balkers. This treatment, -properly ap- 



88 WILL NOT STAND. IF CHECKED WILL BALK. 

plied, will remove all inclination in the colt to balk or kick. 
No other principle, yet discovered, is so humane, simple and 
practical. Combined with other treatment referred to, it 
will enable perfect success in every case. 

"WILL NOT STAND. — IF STOPPED, WILL BALK. 

This is also the result of the old defective treatment, that 
does not give any thing for removing inclination to the habit. 
It is a habit that is entirely the result of ignorant and bad 
management. A horse would just as soon stand as do any 
thing else, when shown properly ; but when the colt is 
allowed to go as he pleases, and learns to pull against the 
bit, pulling him back to stand only makes him restless and 
eager to go, and is very likely to make him mad, and, if not 
allowed to go, he may balk. Some horses will learn this habit 
very quickly, and, once started in it, are very persistent. It 
is a habit, however, brought easily under control. If the 
horse has a good stiff mouth, and pulls ahead upon the bit, 
a few minutes' lesson with the breaking-bit will usually make 
him stand kindly. If this will not do, subject him to a 
second course of subjection. Next, put on harness with 
breaking-bit, and in a peremptory manner force him to stand : 
if he lunges ahead, set him back on his heels, which you can 
easily do with this bit. But it is equally important that you 
make the horse start as promptly. If you are too positive in 
your control of the mouth with the bit, the horse may now 
balk ; and this is the point to be next overcome. Try the 
whip first, by giving him one or two keen cuts around the 
hind legs, up near the body. Simply stop and start until 
there is prompt obedience. One lesson of this kind will 
control all common cases, but it is possible your subject 
will balk squarely and in the most positive manner ; then try 
the double draw hitch and war-bridle, as before explained, 
in another part of this chapter, until there is prompt obedi- 
ence. It is rarely this will not enable perfect success in a 
few minutes : it will in every case if used properly. If an 
exceptionably bad case, the regular course, as for single balk- 
ing, may be used. If the horse is of a high-strung, irritable 
disposition, — one of those that seem to work in easily, yet is 
restless and irritable, — it is possible you must work slowly and 
carefully, especially so if sensitive to the whip. The course 



WILL NOT STAND. IF CHECKED WILL BALK. 89 

I would take is this ; and if you are at all careful and handy, 
you will succeed easily. First put on the double draw, and 
lift the horse a few times out of his tracks. This will be a 
new idea of your power, for this is fearfully powerful in its 
way. Once yielding to you, turn this into the simple straight 
war-bridle, and lift him ahead until he comes promptly. You 
have now made a good start : now put on the harness, and 
with the reins stop and start him. If he gets mad, and will 
not start, lift him with the war-bridle. As soon as he yields, 
caress, and reward him with some apple, sugar, and salt, 
or something else. Drill him on this point as follows : 
start him a little, command " Whoa ! " and stop him ; step 
forward, caress, speak kindly, and give something. Go back, 
starting him moderately, letting him go a little farther, stop- 
ping and rewarding as before, until there is prompt obedi- 
ence, and the mind is thoroughly fixed on the idea of the 
reward for obedience. All this will require but twenty, thirty, 
or forty minutes at the most. Head your wagon towards the 
barn or wall, but some distance away, and hitch in the horse, 
being very careful that the reins are in the turrets. As soon 
as geared in, go to the nose, right in front, caress a little, at 
the same time give a little something of which he is fond. In 
this way hold the attention a minute or two, then walk ahead 
slowly, and say " Come : " the horse will instinctively fol- 
low. After going a few feet, stop him, reward again, stand- 
ing a little while, but carefully holding the attention. After 
a few movements of this kind, gradually at each repetition 
get back to the shoulder side, and finally into the wagon, 
and, as you repeat, now get in and out of the wagon, mak- 
ing more stir and noise, but each time going forward, when 
the horse will stand rewarding him. Get in and out this 
way, and gradually winning the horse's attention from dis- 
obedience; hitch and unhitch him, getting in and out of 
the wagon until you can put him in shafts ; pick up the 
reins, and make all the fuss you please, and he will wait for 
the command to go, before starting. Great care should be 
used about hitting a sensitive horse with a whip the instant 
you get in. In this way some horses will learn very quickly 
to become impatient and restless. If I could see the horse 
and the man, I could tell exactly the treatment most advisa- 
ble. I would advise you, if you are a timid and not very 



90 RUNNING BACK. 

strong man, who would avoid any thing like abuse or a 
fight with the horse, to take this course. You will be sur- 
prised at your success ; but it may take you several hours to 
do it. Then be careful for a few times, hitching, taking a 
few moments in stopping and starting as before, and re- 
warding ; then gradually let the horse out to his work. There 
is a great deal in this sort of natural tact ; and I would ask, 
What are a few hours' or a half-day's time spent in this 
way, compared to the gratification and success the effort 
accomplishes ? 

RUNNING BACK. 

If, in training the colt, you make him back too freely when 
pulled upon, you are liable to have this habit learned, which 
is a very bad one, because so much beyond control. It is 
on this account I repeatedly warn not to try to back the 
colt until he learns to go ahead and sideways, and does it 
well, and be careful not to get the colt's mouth too sensi- 
tive. No matter how stubbornly a colt may resist the bit, or 
how hard the mouth, there will be no difficulty of making it 
as sensitive as you please with the breaking-bit. If, for 
example, you were to force the colt to back while warm, and 
after a desperate struggle, you will find that next day the 
colt will be too light on the bit. Make him go back now, 
freely, a few times, and the habit is established ; or if restless, 
and you pull back sharply, making the colt to run back, if 
you are not careful, it will become an established habit. 

To break up this habit, there must be established a 
thorough fear of the whip, so as to induce going ahead when 
commanded. Put on harness, and tie the tugs into the rings 
of the breeching rather short. Drive around with the reins, 
giving a sharp cut, with a good bow-whip, around the legs 
once in a while, if not prompt. As the horse learns to 
spring ahead when commanded, pull a little on the lines, 
gradually repeating until he will pull quite hard on the bit 
to go ahead. Make this as thorough as possible. In driv- 
ing, repeat this, going ahead promptly, whipping up sharply 
once in a while, if necessary. 

The main point is to create a thorough fear of going back. 
Now, attach to wagon, and gradually work up with whip. 
The foot-strap may be put on, if there is any possible danger 
of the horse running back when hitched. 



RUNNING AWAY. 91 

The course I take is this : with the harness on, and refus- 
ing to go ahead, or after running back when pulled upon, I 
put on the war-bridle, as for double balker, and I lift him 
ahead ; and he gives up all inclination to try again to resist. 
I follow up now, using the whip around the hind legs once 
in a while keenly ; the main point being to be thorough ; at 
first, if thought advisable for security, using the foot-strap 
when attached to a wagon. This is a habit we break up very 
easily. Once the inclination is overcome, the horse is usually 
safe. 

running away. -will not back. -pulling on 

ONE REIN. 

This habit is the result of the present defective system of 
breaking horses. Nothing is done to overcome the nervous 
sensibility and fear of the colt or horse. He is simply put 
in harness. There is no certain control of the mouth by the 
bit. Something goes wrong, which excites the fears, and 
away the horse goes, in defiance of any restraint upon the 
mouth with reins and bit, as a reckless horse can run away 
in defiance of the united pulling of several men on the bit. 
It is an important part of our programme not to make a 
failure, or expose to injury or loss ; to be able to measure 
the difficulty of the case, and make no guess-work in its 
control, is the first condition. An ordinary case will, of 
course, yield readily to a firm, strong hand and sharp bit ; 
but all this is only palliative, and far from sufficient when a 
horse is decidedly bad, and learns to rush against the bit. 
The main point of my success in the management of this 
habit is in going to work indirectly at the cause ; and here I 
am most thorough. But I do not stop here : I culminate 
my treatment upon the mouth ; and after once taking the 
point in hand, never leave it, let the time be short or long, 
repeating, if necessary, until the mouth is perfectly plastic to 
the gentlest restraint of the bit. Thus I can and do make 
a radical reform, and it is the only way it can be done 
practically. The first step I aim for in training the colt, is 
to make him as gentle as any old, well-broken horse ; the 
next, to get perfect control of the mouth. I am, in conse- 
quence, able to do easily and surely what is very difficult, if 
not impossible to, by the ordinary system of bitting and 



92 PULLING ON ONE REIN. 

training, and leave the horse perfectly gentle and free from 
inclination to resist control afterwards. If it is fear of being 
touched, or of any thing behind, that causes the horse to 
run away, that sensibility should, as far as possible, be at 
first overcome. The average of such horses have been 
frightened by the breeching, or something, giving way ; and 
the fear excited by the unusual contact makes the horse 
afterwards partially or wholly unmanageable. If it is fear 
of the wagon, resort to first or second methods of subjec- 
tion, or both ; and, as this habit is often combined with that 
of kicking, the cause of the excitement must be removed, the 
same as in kicking ; so that you can take either of the meth- 
ods of subjection, as you may find advisable. Having made 
this point, next get the mouth under control with the break- 
ing-bit. Experience teaches me that the surest and best 
way is to overcome all tendency of pulling against the bit, 
on the same principle we remove all tendency in the horse 
to kick by overcoming the sensibility of the part ; here the 
difficulty being that of pulling against the bit so hard that 
the horse cannot be held. The true principle of success is 
to combat the resistance directly, until it is entirely over- 
come, and there is perfect obedience to the slightest restraint 
of the reins. Neither is this difficult to do : on the contrary, 
they yield to this treatment so readily that I can bring the 
average of such under perfect control in fifteen to twenty 
minutes, so that they will, at the word, stop instantly. This 
was the secret of my driving the Malone horse, Wild Pete, 
and other noted horses, so easily, referred to in the first chap- 
ter. I frequently get horses that cannot be made to back, 
resisting even the pulling of six or eight men on the reins ; 
yet, after a little effort, on this principle, properly directed, 
they will soon learn to back freely as required, to the lightest 
pressure of the bit on the mouth. The principle is the 
same in breaking up the habit of 

PULLING ON ONE REIN. -"WILL NOT BACK. — TURN- 
ING AROUND. 

Overcome the resistance on the side pulled against by 
pulling on that side sharply, until resistance ceases, and the 
habit becomes easy to break up. Whatever we do, we must 
ultimately depend upon our control of the mouth. If this is 



PULLING ON ONE REIN. 93 

defective, our work is at least but half done, and the usua\ 
result is some form of resistance to the bit. The breaking- 
bit gives a sure and easy means of obtaining control of the 
mouth, and thus of avoiding as well as breaking up these 
mouth habits, so difficult to reach by other means. After 
subjecting the horse to treatment until not afraid of having 
quarters, &c, touched, put on the harness, with breaking-bit 
in the bridle ; run the reins back through the shaft lugs ; 
get behind and take a firm hold of the reins ; give a quick, 
but slightly raking pull, whether the horse gives or not. 
After a short interval repeat, pulling harder, or not, accord- 
ing to the resistance of the horse. In this way follow up 
until the horse will give freely to the bit. Now move the 
horse forward on a moderate walk ; call " Whoa ! " sharply, 
and, if he does not stop, bring the weight of the body upon 
the mouth as before, with a sharp, quick, raking jerk, which 
must, if possible, be strong enough to stop and throw the 
horse back. After a short interval, repeat this movement, 
stopping gradually, and letting out the horse faster, until you 
can let out on a fast trot, and run or stop instantly at com- 
mand. All this should be done out in the yard or field. You 
can tell by the prompt and easy submission of the horse 
when it will do to make the next step of driving to wagon : 
when you do commence again, back and work up, holding 
your point of control up to the fastest gait. The slower the 
horse moves, the more easy your control; the faster, the 
less. So your policy should be to take advantage of every 
point in your favor, which lessens resistance and increases 
your power to the end of perfect success. Unless you 
know you have the horse perfectly in hand, you should not 
let him out to a fast gait, and then try to hold or stop him. 
If you do, and fail to stop him as you desire, the horse will 
gain courage by the resistance, and be likely to run away with 
you, or try to do so. There are a great many who think, be- 
cause they are strong, they can hold any horse : give them 
only a good hold of the reins, and they are not afraid to 
drive any horse. If you are of this mind, your confidence is 
based upon ignorance and inexperience ; and you are worse 
than a fool for taking chances so much against you, and 
which do not in any way prove skill. No one man, or 
even four men, can hold, by a dead pull, even with the 



94 PULLING ON ONE REIN. 

power of the breaking-bit, a horse of decided courage and 
nerve, that has learned to lunge savagely against the bit, 
from fear or other cause. It is not unusual for the writer to 
have horses brought forward, of this character, that at first 
would pull, on a walk on the barn floor, against the entire 
strength of from four to eight and ten men.* 

If given the advantage of motion, such horses could carry 
along almost any weight thrown upon the mouth from a 
wagon. I admit there is no great difficulty in holding any 
common horse, even with an ordinary bit ; but I am referring 
to horses that have resisted, and would run away in defiance 
of, any bit or control of any rigging in use upon the head. 
I frequently have horses offered for treatment before the 
class that had overdraw checks and reins, and the most 
powerful bits used upon horses, that would run away at the 
drop of a hat, in harness, regardless of any restraint by such 
means upon the mouth ; yet it is upon such that I have and 
do make my greatest hits of success, and I never found one 
I could not make so gentle as to submit to be driven as I 
pleased, under excitement or not, with entire safety. I will 
refer here to a few exceptionally bad cases. In Memphis, 
Tenn., a large white horse, owned by a coal-dealer named 
Watson, had run away several times in succession. A mule 
and horse drover from Alabama, who openly bragged that 
he could drive any living runaway horse, after the greatest 
deliberation and care, made the experiment. The bad char- 
acter of the horse, in connection with the great pretension of 
the man, who had the advantage of being large and power- 
ful in build, made the case interesting. The horse ran from 
the first jump, the man having no control whatever over 
him, resulting in almost fatal injuries to the man ; the horse 
smashing the wagon, and clearing himself from all encum- 
brance. The next and last attempt to drive him was by a 
mule-drover from Mississippi. He knew he could drive the 
horse : he, in fact, claimed to be invincible. This time the 
man was thrown, an arm broken, and almost fatally injured ; 
the horse running into the Mississippi River, and was res- 

* Twice during the past winter ordinary sized horses, noted runaways, treated 
before the class, pulled at first against the united strength of ten men, on a walk, 
with such desperation as to pull themselves down upon the belly on the floor, yet 
were broken so thoroughly that they were afterwards perfectly safe. 



PULLING ON ONE REIN. 95 

cued from drowning with great difficulty. Both men were 
still in the city, confined from the effects of their injuries, 
when I went there. It was well understood that no man 
could drive this horse ; and no man in that country could be 
induced to try the experiment again, for love or money, so 
bad was the reputation of the horse. I brought this horse 
under such complete subjection in an hour, that I did every 
thing with him that could be done in the open street, to show 
his perfect docility ; allowing him to trot off up the street, 
ten rods away, and make him stop instantly at command. 
Gen. Forrest, Gen. Rucker, Capt. Forrest, and others com- 
bined to break me down. They believed I had given the 
horse medicine, or something else. The horse was put 
under lock and key for a week, when I was commanded to 
drive him : I did so, with perfect success, proving the horse 
perfectly safe. The success of the trial was so great as to 
win for me the voluntary indorsement of the gentlemen 
named, including other leading citizens, who became mem- 
bers of my class in that city. In Garrettsville, O., was 
owned a nine-year-old horse by a livery man, named J. R. 
Gates, that would run away in harness any way they could 
fix him, and was wholly unmanageable. After one lesson, 
of not more than thirty to forty minutes' time, he could be 
driven, perfectly gentle, and after standing two weeks without 
doing any thing more with him (for upon trial I found him 
safe), he was driven to wagon by me down the main street 
of that village, controlling the horse by word, while ten rods 
behind. He was sold as a family driving-horse to a gentle- 
man in Pittsburg, Penn., and has remained perfectly gentle. 
Wild Pete, the Smawley horse of Petroleum Centre, Penn., 
referred to on page 14, was another remarkable case. 
This horse was actually wild and desperate. It was an utter 
impossibility to drive him, or hold him in harness. This 
horse was generally known, and all laughed at the idea of 
breaking or driving him. I made the public declaration 
that I would drive him, perfectly gentle, in an hour ; and I 
made the statement good by not only doing it, but broke 
him in the time so thoroughly that he has been used as a 
family driving-horse since, and he has proved absolutely safe. 
When in Toledo, O., I broke a five-year-old colt, owned by 
J. P. Collins, proprietor of the track there, in one lesson of 



96 CAUTION. 

forty minutes, that was entirely unmanageable in harness. 
Mr. Collins, as a last resort, with the purpose of driving him 
at all hazards, tied the horse back to another by his side, 
and even then the reckless young brute succeeded in getting 
away. I could multiply these exceptional cases by the hun- 
dred, if I desired : indeed, almost every day or two, colts 
and horses are brought forward to be handled before the 
class, that cannot be driven in harness, — horses that have 
been spoiled, or that had never been put in harness ; and 
with some only exceptional cases I have no trouble in driving, 
even without breeching, in fifteen to thirty minutes. The 
point to be attained is, to weaken the resistance, and get per- 
fect hold of the mouth, making it perfectly flexible to the 
restraint of the bit. If the horse is cold-blooded and decid- 
edly courageous, you are, at first, likely to experience great 
opposition ; for in proportion as the horse is warmed up, 
he will be likely to fight your effort to control him with an 
insane fury that makes him seem regardless of any thing you 
may do. This is not unusual if the horse is a very bad one, 
and has been successful in resisting the bit. Have no fear 
of the result. Keep cool ; follow up one point after another 
until there is complete submission, and your success will be 
sure. The course I take is this : if the horse becomes warm 
and reckless, to stop until cool, when I go to work as before ; 
you gain a great advantage by letting the horse get cool, as 
he is now, from the effects of the previous lesson, keenly sus- 
ceptible to pain, and can usually be rushed over the point of 
contest before he gets warm again. The sensibilities are so 
blunted, when thoroughly mad and warmed up, that it is dif- 
ficult to make the horse yield when greatly excited ; but, 
however stubborn, letting the horse get cool and then repeat- 
ing the lesson will insure success. I will say here, that I 
never in all my experience had any serious injury result to 
the mouth by any seeming severity. If I find the horse is 
of a strong, reckless, positive character, I go to work very 
carefully, giving myself time to repeat the lesson. 

CAUTION. 

I would caution here not to push colts by fighting them 
too hard with the breaking-bit. But we will suppose the 
colt is but partly broken, — has a strong, heavy mouth. If 



TURNING AROUND. 97 

he becomes warm and resists desperately, and you push 
through until he yields, you will be likely to find the 
mouth so tender, the day following, that he will not bear 
at all against the bit. It is this yielding to restraint, by act- 
ing persistently upon the mouth with a certain form of bit, 
that enables me to break and control all peculiarities of re- 
sistance to the mouth so easily ; and the ability to break 
of pulling on one rein, refusing to back, and of running 
away, may all really be classed under one head, because 
broken by the same principles of treatment. The horses 
referred to on a previous page were each broken by one 
lesson. I have had, however, many cases I could not con- 
trol without repeating treatment, once or twice, and in 
two cases — noted horses — repeated three times; but 
my ultimate success was complete. I think it proper, be- 
fore closing this chapter, to include a description of other 
means of great value for the control of runaway horses, — 
means by which we can restrain and control kickers, by 
direct power to force the head up and back, and will work 
equally well on the runaway. Here I would call attention 
to the different forms of reins, given in the chapter on 
kicking. Either form gives great power over runaway 
horses, and in many cases of lugging, or pulling against 
the bit, work admirably. The foot-strap, overdraw-check, 
or power-reins, will enable the easy control of any ordi- 
nary runaway horses. The power-rein, or purchase, as 
shown by the cord illustration, which can be modified, if 
desired, by using reins with corresponding construction, 
to give the pulling power upon the head, can be substi- 
tuted. But, as I have stated before, I discard all these 
means now in my practice. 

TURNING AROUND. 

This is another habit that results from defective mouth- 
training. With some exceptions, the habit is controlled 
easily ; simply using the breaking-bit is all that is neces- 
sary, or working the mouth with it until the head is turned 
freely to the control of the bit. Pull, and repeat, against 
the hard side of the mouth, until the head will be turned, 
when pulled, freely. One of the simplest and most effi- 
cient, is the following, illustrated by cut. Provide your- 



98 WILL NOT BACK. 

self with an ordinary steel bit, such as are ordinarily used 
for the overdraw-check : to this bit is attached two small 
straps, which are passed up over the head and through a 
small loop just above each ear, on .the top of the bridle, 
extending back as ordinary check-reins, and connected 
with the saddle-Hook. To make this check more effective, 
a small strap should pass from one ring of the bit to the 
other, across over the nose, and be just tight enough to 
keep the bit in place. With head well checked up, which 
this form of overdraw enables, the horse will drive, as de- 



To prevent turning round. 

sired, freely. The four-ring bit will sometimes work well 
in this habit. There are also forms of bit in use that get 
the desired purchase sideways upon the jaw, that work 
well. 

"WILL WOT BACK. 

Put on the harness with breaking-bit on bridle. Pass 
the reins back through the shaft-bearers. Get behind the 
horse, holding the reins firmly in the hands. Now give a 
sharp, raking pull back, and repeat slowly until the horse 
will back freely. If a colt is sulky and stubborn, and 
warms up much before you make your point, simply let 
him rest until cool, when you can usually make your point 
easily. The breaking-bit excels all other means for mak- 
ing a horse back. Be careful not to do too much, as the 






PULLING ON THE HALTER. 99 

mouth once made tender, and the horse made to back too 
freely, you do a serious mischief it is not easy to remedy. 
Taking a little extra time, and working carefully enables 
you to determine with more accuracy just how much to do. 
A colt that will act decidedly stubborn, if forced to yield 
while warm, will be likely next day to have the mouth too 
tender. The best way, in training the colt, is to work him 
up a little. Stop, even though the colt will not back. Next 
day the mouth will be sensitive, and will back easily and 
just as freely as desired, without abuse or danger of spoil- 
ing the mouth. 

PULLING ON THE HALTEB. 

If a green colt is tied by the head to a post, and if the 
halter is a rope, one that draws tightly across the nose, — 
when pulled upon, the colt will be almost sure to pull back 




Pulling on the halter. 

the moment pressure is felt upon the head. Should the 
halter give way to the strain, the colt will try with great per- 
sistence to pull when so hitched afterwards. Try to pull a 
colt ahead before being broken to lead, and he will naturally 
run back, refusing to lead. This should indicate that a colt 
should not be hitched by the head with any kind of a halter, 
and given a chance to learn to pull. There is great danger, 
in the first place, of seriously injuring the colt by pulling, as 
he is likely to do, upon his head. Secondly, if the halter 
gives, the habit of halter-pulling is established. The colt 



100 PULLING ON THE HALTER. 

should never be hitched with a rough rope halter ; for when 
pulled upon, it hurts, and this hurting frightens, and makes a 
horse pull the harder. If at first a rope was drawn across 
the stall, so as to come against the hind parts when the colt 
would try to go back, leaving the halter so long, when tied, 
that but little if any strain could come upon it before the 
rope across the stall would be felt, in a short time the horse 
would become accustomed to being hitched, and stand gen- 
tly without trouble. By the following plan you can hitch a 
colt with entire safety, and cannot cause harm, though hitched 
by the head. 

Provide yourself with a half-inch cord, of good hemp 
material if you can get it, about twenty-six feet in length. 
Double it, and put the centre under the tail, like a crupper ; 
bring forward over the back, twisting both around each other 
two or three times ; draw forward around the neck in front 
of the shoulders into a knot ; now pass both cords forward 
through the ring in the manger or post ; rein back, and tie 
into the halter, back of the jaw. If the horse now pulls, it is 
true he is tied by the head ; but he disables and disconcerts 
himself by pulling directly against the hind parts, which not 
only disables him so that he cannot pull, but makes him on 
the instant go ahead. Be sure there is no possibility of any 
thing giving way or breaking ; for if, when the horse pulls, 
which he may do at first with a sort of lunge, should he suc- 
ceed in breaking loose, you are giving yourself away. This 
you must, at all hazards, guard against. If a colt, all you 
need to do is to hitch this way for a few times ; if a bad hal- 
ter-puller, you must do more. Provide yourself with a good 
bow- whip, and the instant the horse sets back to pull, put 
Mhe whip into his nose for all you are worth until he comes 
ahead. You need not be afraid of hurting ; so long as there 
is the least inclination to pull, punish keenly. No matter 
how well a horse behaves, the best course is to hitch so for a 
few days. Hitch first where the horse pulls the hardest. Of 
course you cannot do any thing with a whip while hitched in 
a stall, and must get as good substitute as you can. The 
main point is to force the horse out of the habit on the in- 
stant. Every precaution must be taken against breaking loose. 
Leave nothing to chance that will possibly cause this. Running 
the rope through a small ring, or a square-edged staple, or a 



PULLING ON THE BRIDLE. 101 

weak manger, or the rope being of bad material, and weak, 
— all these little matters must be looked at carefully, and 
every possible defect remedied before the trial is made. 
Again, see that you have a whip that is not too long and 
limber at the end : it should be rather short, of good buck- 
skin, that you can hit with within an inch of any point you 
desire. The intense keenness of the shock of pain you are 
able to produce at the first onset of pulling, is really the key 
of success here. One lesson will break ordinary horses of 
this habit ; but if the horse is bad, and at all doubtful, be as 
thorough as you can, and hitch for a few days as above. 

PULLING ON THE BRIDLE. 

See that the head part of the bridle is made very strong ; 
provide yourself with a small but strong cord, which may be 
doubled, or a strap, if sufficiently strong, will do. Have, if 
you can, a long but sharp snaffle-bit in the bridle. Pass the 
end of the rope or strap through the rein-ring of the bit, 
across back of the jaw, and attach to the off one of the bit ; 
now, when the horse pulls, the bit is doubled across the jaw, 
which hurts intensely, and the horse will soon stand without 
attejnpting to pull ; or you can pass the rope or strap through 
the near ring of the bit, up over the head, right up near the 
bridle, down on the opposite side, through the ring of the bit, 
and tie or buckle a little below the nose, or near the near 
ring, or knot both together at this point, and hitch both as 
with a halter. 



BITING AND STRIKING. 



There are many habits, which, to break up successfully, 
requires not only good judgment, but a cool determination. 
Biting and striking are among the most dangerous, for the 
least want of watchfulness will often encourage the horse 
to become aggressive. Hence the necessity of being able 
to see the intention at a glance, and disconcert the mind 
from its purpose before being fully developed. Biters and 
strikers are usually stallions, which are both cautious and 
courageous. They are of two classes : those that are 
merely irritable, and liable to bite when not watched, and 
those that cannot be approached or handled at all with 
safety. If the subject belongs to the first class, either method 
of subjection, and use of the war-bridle or double^draw, jtvill 
give perfect control in a few minutes ; if the second, and he is 
a stallion, you have a horse that is possibly of the most dan- 
gerous character, — one that, to make a single mistake in his 
management, would be fatal. The Hettrick horse of New 
York, referred to on page 17, was a remarkable subject of 
this character : though a gelding, he was so vicious that he 
would bite, strike, or kick at any one as soon as within his 
reach. It was entirely impossible, by the greatest delicacy 
of management, to touch him with the tip of the finger, with- 
out serious injury. The Hillman horse of Portland, referred 
to on page 18, was another remarkable case, — a stallion as 
cunning and treacherous as a vicious bull-dog. The Wilkins 
horse, handled by me as a special test trial before Mr. Rob- 
ert Bonner, in his stable in New York City, was a striker and 
kicker of the most dangerous character. I was bound to 
win Mr. Bonner, and Mr. Bonner would have nothing short 
of the successful control of horses he knew all others failed 
to break. The Wilkins horse was selected as the worst 
known in the city. A very little abuse will spoil a certain 
102 



BITING AND STRIKING. 103 

class of stallions very quickly, no matter how gentle previ- 
ously ; and, once started, they are most fearful. In approach- 
ing afterwards, speak sharply " get round," or any signal that 
will attract attention. Let the left hand be put on the shoul- 
der (near side), glide it up the neck to the head, then down 
to the nose-piece of the halter. If there is an attempt to 
bite now, the hand is carried up before the head and held 
out of reach, while you can keep the head from you with 
greatest ease. 

An old horse subject to this habit must be watched closely. 
So long as there is disposition to bite, the horse must not be 
regarded safe. Carelessness and timidity, especially if sub- 
jected to harsh treatment, may be regarded as the primary 
cause. I have known horses to become inveterate biters by 
being whipped once or twice. 

A gentleman informed me lately that a horse he formerly 
owned became terribly vicious by being struck once with a 
whip in the stall. He was, up to that time, as gentle as any 
horse could be. Mr. Roberts's horse, a notice of which I 
give from the " Utica Herald," had been of a very docile 
character. A rough, drunken groom, who was employed to 
take care of him, by irritating and abusing the horse got 
him vicious. Mr. Roberts now took him in hand. One day, 
while in harness, the horse acted a little stubborn and vicious. 
Mr. Roberts struck him with the whip, when instantly the 
horse struck and bit him, knocking him senseless under his 
feet, and would have killed him if not driven off by two 
men, who happened at the time to be close by. He had run in 
his stall seven months, and would jump at any one with the 
ferocity of a desperate dog. As was stated, I took him in 
hand and made him gentle in less than twenty minutes, and 
he remained of a good character afterwards. If the horse 
is young and thoroughly treated, there will be but little 
trouble in reforming him. If old and bad, there is no hope 
of success, unless very carefully handled. If the horse is 
dangerous and bad, subject him to first, second, or third 
treatment. Either may do ; but unless you are thorough, and 
make complete success, your effort will be likely to prove a 
failure. The main point is to work quick and thorough, 
making your point. If a stallion, you must always be on 
your guard. Appeal to the better nature, and win his conn- 



104 BITING AND STRIKING. 

dence as fully as you can by kind treatment. The war-bridle 
will have no permanent effect : you must go back to first prin- 
ciples, and make as telling an impression as you can ; then 
follow up with simple means, an example of which I will 
refer to here. Years ago I bought a fine Gifford Morgan 
horse in Gowanda, N.Y. This horse was exceptionally 
clever, never offering to nip or bite ; he was of a sorrel color, 
medium-sized, spirited, nine years old ; the eyes were large, 
with a trace of brown color; the eyelids with white 
enough to show great temper; the forehead was wide, 
but not full. I trained this horse to drive without reins, to 
do which requires the severe use of the whip, and a great 
deal of it ; yet, by careful treatment afterwards, I succeeded 
in training him without exciting his ill-will : it was a nice feat 
of training, but I did it successfully. In consequence of 
ill-health, I sold the horse with others in Bath, N.Y., to Fred 
Arned, who was a hotel-keeper, and liable at times to be influ- 
enced by liquor, who without any provocation whipped the 
horse in his stall. Happening ne?r at the time, I warned 
the man he must not on any account repeat it ; that to do so 
would make the horse so desperately vicious that he would 
be worthless to him ; but to go at once and get some good 
apples and give them to him, thus winning him out of the ex- 
citement. The man was stubborn, and would not do it. 
In a few days the whipping was repeated ; and the conse- 
quence was, afterwards, that horse would kill any one if he 
could who would go near him : he would jump for a man, 
and grate his teeth with desperation. Now Arned came to 
me in humility, saying the horse was truly ruined, and that 
he would do any thing I would require, if I would break the 
horse for him. It was with the greatest difficulty that I was 
able to get the horse out of his stall. A more desperate 
brute I never saw. His eyes were like coals of fire. I sub- 
jected rapidly to the first and second treatments, and suc- 
ceeded in about thirty minutes in making him submit to me 
completely. He now seemed to know me, and submitted to 
my control as gently as ever. I led the horse to his stall, 
gave him apples, and talked to him, caressing him for fully 
twenty minutes, leaving him calm and gentle. I now em- 
ployed a patient and careful man to take charge of the 
horse, directed him to get a peck of good apples, go into his 



BITING AND STRIKING. 105 

stall, occasionally give an apple, and treat him with the utmost 
kindness ; at the same time I cautioned the owner on no ac- 
count must he show himself to the horse or go near him until 
I permitted it, or was present. The horse continued now per- 
fectly gentle, and in two weeks I thought it best to let him see 
Arned : the horse knew him instantly, and was immediately 
roused with anger, though the man stood at the door of the 
stall. The horse proved gentle to any one but his owner : he 
could never feel safe near him. Four years afterward, when I 
revisited, that part of the country, I found the horse owned 
in Merchantsville, in the same county. The owner could 
take him out by the halter and play with him ; his wife could 
drive and handle him with perfect safety as a family horse. 
I took him into the street, and played with him as of old, and 
he knew me perfectly. The owner told me he was all right 
in every way ; but, said he, " Let him see a bald-headed man 
that is drunk, and he will kill him if he can. His whole 
nature will be excited with madness, yet he is perfectly gentle 
for others to handle or use." This horse was a cribber when 
I bought him, and was broken completely of this habit by 
the treatment given in this book. 

There is one point" I would call your attention to here. 
If a stallion of intelligence, and of some age, or even 
a grown colt that had been fooled with much, you must 
have your wits about you, when near him : no matter how 
pleasant he looks, you must never approach or go near 
him except when your eyes are upon his ; and, if you have 
any nerve or will-power, show it all in your 'expression 
and actions. You must never, on any account, when near 
a stallion's head, turn your back to him. A horse of this 
character, that is quite manageable and considered safe, is 
even then liable to bite sharply, and do what you are not to 
expect from a horse that has not learned his power. If the 
horse is of a sulky, stubborn nature, heavy eyelids, and 
much white in the eye, and long from eyes to ears, he will 
not give any warning of his intention. He will stand 
sullen, with ears a little back, and eyes partly closed. 
The Hillman horse, referred to, was of this type. He 
would not make a move until within reach, and then he 
would spring upon a man like a bull-dog. A horse with 
large clear eyes, full forehead, and pointed ears will show 



106 BITING AND STRIKING. 

his intentions clearly, and will always warn you off with 
energy. This horse is really the least dangerous, as a 
barking dog makes most fuss in showing himself. When 
approaching a kicking, biting horse in the stall, don't show 
the least want of confidence in yourself, or exhibit the 
least indication of fear, while you should not be fool- 
hardy. You must here, at all times, show decided nerve 
and courage. As you get near the stall, if possible, 
catch the horse's eye, and say, "Get around, sir," in a 
commanding manner : stand still, looking firmly into the 
eye ; for he is measuring you, and now is the critical 
moment of his learning what you are. If you have will 
and nerve in you, concentrate it now in your looks and 
actions, as if you would crush him. Say, " Get around, 
sir," getting as near as you can, but not near enough to 
get kicked. If the horse moves around, and looks from 
you, you can, if careful, approach him safely. As you get 
to the end of the stall, with your eyes still upon him, 
make a quick, gliding spring to the shoulder, and without 
waiting for him to recover himself, run the hand up the 
neck to the head and down to the nose-piece of the halter 
or bit, and grasp it firmly. You are now safe. But as you 
value your life, be gentle and firm in your actions. When 
you wish to go out, pull the head after you as far as you 
can, and the instant you let go, glide out beyond reach. 
If the horse will not move, and looks at you sullenly, don't 
you chance going near him : there is too much danger. 
He would 'crush you before you could do any thing to 
prevent. I will not attempt to dictate the course you are 
to pursue to get to him : too much depends upon circum- 
stances, and I do not wish to indulge in too many details. 
You must use your judgment, but take no chances you 
can with a little time and care avoid. Subject the horse 
to either or all modes of direct subjection. It is here that 
the value of skill is shown by quick, keen, smooth work, 
that leaves nothing undone, yet, without apparently doing 
much, brings about a complete change in the animal's 
character. Many and many a time, with a prejudiced class 
behind me, who would seem glad of my defeat, I have 
taken almost desperate chances, and barely succeeded. 
My advice is, do not be foolhardy. Let your courage be 



JUMPING OUT OF SHAFTS WHEN UNHITCHED. 107 

shown by the prudence of skill that brings sure success. 
No matter how well the horse acts, you must go around 
and handle him as if expecting every instant that he 
would go for you. The moment he submits to your con- 
trol, treat him with the utmost kindness, and follow up this 
policy, but be ever ready to check sharply any inclination 
to viciousness. An old horse, that is in the habit of biting 
while standing in the street, should be muzzled. No 
matter how well he may act, do not trust him : it is the 
safest course. 

JUMPING OUT OP SHAPTS "WHEN UNHITCHED. 
This is easily overcome. Put on the breaking-bit, and 
the instant the horse attempts to jump out, set him back 
sharply a few times. I frequently break horses of this 
habit, that are considered quite bad, in five or ten minutes, 
so that they will stand quietly to be hitched and unhitched 
as desired. If, however, the horse is decidedly bad, sub- 
ject to second course of subjection, and control, by the bit, 
to stand as desired, then hitch and unhitch until success- 
ful. It is prudent, in bad cases, to repeat the lesson once 
or twice. 

PULLING ON THE BIT. 

This is sometimes a very annoying habit, though in most 
cases it is eas- 
ily managed. 
If a horse has 
a dull, strong 
mouth, put in 
the breaking- 
bit, and give a 
sharp lesson 
with it. If the 
horse is strong 
and reckless, 
use it to drive 
afewdays,and 
the mouth will 
be as light and 

gentle to COn- (No.l.) Four-ring bit, adjusted. 

trol as you 

could desire. If a nervous-tempered horse, of a naturally 





108 PULLING ON THE BIT. 

gentle and moderate disposition, but when warmed up and 
sweaty pulls hard, try, first, as the simplest treatment, 
winding the bit with flannel or cloth. This will work 
nicely on some horses of fine organization ; try next a 
rubber bit. If these fail, try next the four-ring bit, which 
has a peculiar effect in the control of* this habit : it works 
finely on these nervous-tempered, excitable pullers. 

Take an ordinary snaffle-bit, or have a bit made by a 

smith, as in cut No. 2. 
Bend one of the rings 
into the form of a link, 
slip over it two rings 
about an inch and a 
half each in diameter, straighten back the ring to its origi- 
nal form, and you have a common snaffle-bit, with two 
small rings on the mouth-piece. Buckle into a common 
bridle. Get made next two straps, — one two feet in length 
and three-quarters of an inch wide, made like a hame- 
strap ; the other about three feet in length, narrower and 
lighter. Run the short strap through both rings, and 
buckle double, in the form of a nose-piece, buckling just 
long enough to fit around the nose closely. Bring the 
long strap around the short one at the centre, pass up and 
through a little loop left in the bridle, between the ears 
and buckle, just short enough to let the nose-piece come 
straight across the nose. It will now be found, by stand- 
ing in front of the horse, putting both thumbs through the 
rings, and giving a little jerk down and backwards, that 
the head will be thrown up and back easily. The strap 
across the nose will act as a fulcrum, when the rings on 
the end of the bit are pulled upon, the two inside rings 
slide towards the centre, forcing the joint upwards against 
the roof of the mouth, which causes so much pain, that 
the horse will not try to resist, after being pulled upon a 
few times. It overcomes pulling on one rein, or throwing 
the nose upon the breast. The effect of this bit on some 
horses is very great. It does not cut or make the mouth 
sore, and is valuable on horses that pull hard when 
warmed up. 

This four-ring bit has been pushed by many parties, as 
a great feature for running away, kicking, &c, and claimed 



CRIBBING. 



109 




to be patented. Instead of rings, straps of iron, fitted to 
slide on the bit and attach the 
strap to, were used and patented. 
These straps, pressing upon the 
cheeks, made them sore, and con- 
sequently objectionable ; instead 
of a strap across the nose, which 
is indispensable to make the con- 
trol of the bit effective, an over- 
draw check was used upon the 
straps, passing up from the bit 
over the head, a slide was placed, 
and by this means the fulcrum of 
purchase across the nose became 
weak and imperfect, because this 
slide, slipping back in the least, 
which it was liable to do, relaxed 
the draw across the nose, and 
thus destroyed the end to be at- 
tained by its compression against Cut of ^(J 8 ^^ be put on 
the roof of the mouth. I give it 

as it should be used ; it is especially adapted for nervous- 
tempered pullers, and will seem to be just the thing on some 
horses for driving, while on others it may prove a failure. 

CKIBBING. 

I treat cribbing successfully as a habit. There may be 
constitutionally predisposing; causes but it is certain, 
whatever the pretensions of anyone, I have never been 
given any proof of ability to break up the habit with medi- 
cine. Horses will not crib on any thing that is lower than 
the knees. Hence the treatment of tearing away the 
manger, and feeding on the floor, or in a basket. Some- 
times sawing between the teeth will stop the habit, by 
making the teeth sore, but is not worthy of serious con- 
sideration. 

There is but one practical plan of breaking up this 
habit, and the success of that will depend very much 
upon the skill displayed in making the adjustment. 

The act of cribbing causes great contraction of the 
muscles of the neck j and the larynx, in consequence, is 



110 CRIBBING. 

forced down much beyond its natural position. This, then, 
is the key, through which we can reach and control the 
habit successfully. Have the throat-latch of the halter 
hang on a line with the top of the head to the junction 
of the neck with the head. Take a piece of strap (good 
firm leather), about five inches in length, and as wide as 
the throat-latch. Drive ten-ounce tacks in a row along 
the centre of this strap, half an inch apart. File the 
points sharp, and of equal length. Lay this strap on the 
inside of the throat-latch where it crosses the larynx, wind 
a piece of waxed thread around both, at the centre and 
ends of the short strap. Buckle the throat-latch just long 
enough, so that it will not touch the neck when eating or 
drinking, but will press sharply at the least attempt to 
crib. The result is, that at every attempt to crib, the 
tacks will stick into the neck, which will hurt and discon- 
cert the horse from doing so. 

The point of success will depend upon the perfection 
and care with which this is kept adjusted. If there is 
large muscular development on the neck, or thick-necked, 
the strap must be buckled shorter than when the neck is 
well cut out, as it is termed. Make the reproof severe at 
first. Then keep it so as to touch sharply when a repeti- 
tion is attempted. If the throat-latch is not on a line with 
the top of the head, the tacks will rest against and cut the 
jaw, a little below the junction of the head with the neck. 
If this is kept on a few days or weeks, and then put on 
carelessly, or taken off, there is likely to be a failure ; for 
if the horse finds he can crib once after this is put on, 
without hurting himself, he will be encouraged to repeat 
the effort, and will punish himself severely to do so. But 
if punished at first, and this kept where it will hurt keenly 
at the least attempt to crib, and left on a few weeks, you 
ought to be successful. It will not do to buckle a strap 
around the neck. The adjustment must be made to the 
strap of the halter, and the halter must fit nicely to the 
head. To do this, it must be made like a bridle, with 
brow-piece, so that it will not shift or move on the head. 
I have no trouble now with the habit. A common boy 
broke five in succession, a few years ago : he became 
careless and failed on the sixth. There is, once in a while, 



GETTING CAST IN STALL. 



Ill 



an old horse, of determined character, that will crib in 
defiance of this or any thing else. Such cases are, however, 
fortunately rare. A young, nervous-tempered horse will 
yield readily to this treatment ; but few horses will at- 
tempt to crib while wearing a muzzle. 

GETTING CAST IN STALL. 

Drive a staple into a beam or the floor directly over 
the horse's head, as he stands in the stall, to which attach 
a strap or piece of small rope, of sufficient length to 
extend within fifteen inches of the floor. Before retiring 
for the night, attach the other end of the cord or strap to 
the top of the halter, making it just long enough to allow 
the horse to put his nose to the floor. Being now unable 
to get the top of his head to the floor, he is prevented 
from rolling. By giving the horse a large stall, he will 
rarely get cast, and this is really most practical. 

PUTTING THE TONGUE OUT OP THE MOUTH. 

If the tongue is put out over the bit, the object is to pre- 
vent this, and 
the habit will 
cease. To do 
this, have fit- 
ted a piece of 
thin sheet- 
iron, about 
two and a half 
inches wide 
and five inch- 
es long, with 
theendsmade 
rounding, and 
theedgesfiled ^ 

smooth. Drill two small holes, about half an inch apart, 
near each edge, at the centre. Fasten it through these 
holes, on top of the bit, with a piece of small annealed wire. 
Shorten the cheek pieces of the bridle, so that the bit is 
drawn well up in the mouth. This piece of iron is now over 
the tongue, making it impossible for the horse to get the 
tongue over the bit. A simple and sure way of doing this is 




112 



PUTTING THE TONGUE OUT OF THE MOUTH. 




to have the smith make a mouth-piece, as represented in the 
cut below, which is seen to be bent up, and comes so high in 
the mouth that the horse cannot get the tongue over : this 
works perfectly and is not inconvenient to drive with. It 

should be bent 
up at least 2 1 
to 3 inches and 
come well out 
to the cheek- 
pieces and filed 
smoothly to 
prevent cut- 
ting or chafing 
the mouth. 
The tongue is 
sometimes, but 
not often, put 

out under the bit. The following treatment will work well : 
Get three middling sized bullets, and hammer them out to 
about an inch and a half in length. Drill a little hole 
through the end of each. Tie one to the centre of the bit 
by a little piece of wire through the joint. Attach the others 
to the bit about an inch from the centre (one on each side), 
so as to play 
loosely. (See 
cut.) 

When this 
bit is now in 
the mouth, 
these extra 
arrangements 
will so dis- 
concert the 
horse that in 
his struggles 
to get them 
out of the way, 

he will forget to put the tongue out. The next best way 
is to buckle a strap around the nose so that the mouth can- 
not be opened. This, of course, prevents the tongue being 
put out ; and, kept in a few days successfully, the habit of do- 
ing so will be completely broken up. 




PAWING IN THE STALL. 113 

PAWING IN THE STALL. 

Get a piece of trace-chain, about ten inches in length ; 
run a short strap through one of the end links, and buckle it 
around the foot above the fetlock ; or a piece of light chain 
can be fastened to a small block, and attached to the foot in 
the same manner. When the horse attempts to paw, the clog 
or chain rattles against th efoot, and prevents a repetition 
of the practice ; or muffle the foot with a double thickness of 
blanket, the horse will not paw, and if he does will not make 
a noise. 

KICKING THE STALL. 

The same treatment used for preventing pawing may be 
used ; or a piece of plank may be attached across the stall 
over the hips about an inch higher than the hips. At each 
effort to kick now, the hind part will strike this plank, and 
prevent ability to do so. If the kicking is with one foot 
against the side of stall, attach some brush to the side of the 
stall, or hang it down loosely over the part kicked at. 

If you have a valuable horse subject to this habit, give him 
a large stall, or have fitted a clog, with a strap or chain to it, 
which attach to the leg with a strap buckled around it. 

KICKING COWS. 

Put on the war-bridle (large loop) around the neck, and 
pull a few times, right and left ; then attempt to milk. At 
the least resistance, punish sharply, repeating as may be ne- 
cessary until the cow learns to stand quietly, and becomes 
afraid to kick. 

Sometimes the teats are sore, and the pain caused by milk- 
ing is very severe. 

Take Gonlard's extract 2 oz., sulphate zinc 2 oz., lard 2 oz., 
and rub upon the parts a few times. This is a favorite rem- 
edy among dairymen for sore teats, cake in the bag, &c. 
This prescription I know to have been sold for fifteen dol- 
lars, and is prized by dairymen in Northern New York, where 
the medicine is sold as a specialty for their use. One lesson 
will usually break a cow or heifer of kicking. Make your 
point thorough when you try at all, and you will succeed 
easily. 



114 



THE WAR-BRIDLE. HOW TO MAKE IT. 





THE WAR-BRIDLE. — HOW TO MAKE IT. 
First get a cord of the very best hemp or flax, made in the 

very best manner, twisted hard, about three-eighths to half 

an inch in diameter, and twenty-one feet in length. The 

smaller, if suf- 
ficiently strong 
so as not to 
break, the bet- 
ter. Tie each 
end into a sin- 
gle hard knot. 

I will, of course, here give but the simple form of making 

and using it. We use this in two ways under the simple 

head of 

war-bridle; 

one to get 

purchase 

sideways ; 

the other 

tOgetpOW- The war-bridle. 

er directly ahead. (See cuts.) To make the large loop 
form, make a tie about twenty inches from the end, more 

or less, according to 

the size of the neck 

to be put around. 

Pass the end around 

theneckupon which 

it is to be used,about 

twelve to fifteen 

inches from the 

head, and have the 

tie last made come 

just short enough 

that when the end 

knot is passed 

through it and 

drawn tight it will 

form a loop that will 

fit around this part Sma11 loop - 
of the neck. Now pass the left hand back between the neck 
and cord, catch the part hanging down, pull it back towards 





Large loop. 



JUMPING OVER FENCES. 115 

the mouth, and pass over the lower jaw, drawing tight enough 
to keep it in place. Catch the end of the cord now in your 
hand, and stand opposite the shoulder ; give a sharp, quick 
pull and you will find you have great power upon the head. 
This form should only be used sideways. It is finely 
.adapted for making a colt follow sideways ; it is good on a 
stallion, as you have purchase in such a way that you can 
keep him from you ; it is very useful for many purposes ; it 
will break a cow of kicking, while milking, in a few minutes. 
Second form : make a tie about ten or eleven inches from the 
head. Pass the end knot through it, and draw moderately 
tight : you want the loop in this form just large enough to pass 
over the lower jaw easily ; it should not be at all tight. Now 
pass the other end over the neck, and down through this loop 
around the jaw, draw down, bring the part over the neck up 
to the ears : now stand in front of the head, a little sideways, 
about six or eight feet away, and give a quick but strong pull 
towards you. and you will get a wonderful power upon the 
head. When this simple means is used skilfully, its effect is 
wonderful. There is a great sleight in using it : indeed, 
though I have used it twenty years, I feel as if I had just 
learned how to use it properly. I modify its application in 
a great many ways, making it entirely a new thing, which has 
been shown carefully to the class. The war-bridle is adapted 
only for making a colt or horse lead. It does easily here 
what nothing else will ; it is not adapted for controlling or 
breaking bad, vicious horses ; its use properly comes under 
the head of minor or palliative treatment. The cord for the 
war-bridle I have is made expressly for my use : it is the 
only cord I could find that is sufficiently strong, smooth, and 
elastic; it will stand all the strain that a man can subject it to. 

JUMPING OVER FENCES. 

Most every dairyman knows that a cow or ox will not 
attempt to jump over a fence, pull it down, or run, while a 
piece of board is placed over the forehead, attached to the 
horns in front of the eyes ; this simple means will usually 
work well upon cattle, but will not do upon a horse, because 
it gives too much freedom to see over the nose. As soon 
as you do this, he will be so disconcerted that he will not 
attempt to jump or meddle with a fence, and but rarely will 



116 



THE BODY FETTERS. 




attempt to run in a pasture. This we accomplish perfectly 
by the means here given, which is cheap and easily ad- 
justed. 

If a horse or mule, put on a halter that fits well to the 

I. ~ head, — a five-ring halter is best. Next find 

f\ /I J a piece of thin leather (an old boot-leg will 
I nSRM \ 1 do), about as long as the head, and from 
four to five inches wider than the head is 
at the eyes. Form it same as in cut, with 
a string attached at each corner. Attach 
the upper corners by the strings to the hal- 
ter, where the brow-piece is attached to 
the cheek-piece. Tie the cords attached 
to the lower corners back of the jaw (being 
careful to leave freedom enough for the 
jaws to act when eating). Let the ends 
now pass over the throat-latch, and make 
fast. The horse is simply disabled from 

The Jumper before looking ahead. He can look sidewise and 
back, but cannot look ahead or over the 

nose forward, which will disconcert sufficiently to prevent 

the animal not only jumping, but throwing the fence down. 

If an ox or cow, attach the upper 

corners to the horns, and pass the 

strings around the neck instead of 

over the throat-latch. I find that 

cows will not attempt to jump after 

this has been used two or three 

weeks. With horses and mules it 

must be used a much longer time, 

in some cases for months. The 

leather should be at least four inches The Jumper adjusted ' 

wider than the head at the eyes, but five or more will be much 

better. This will bring the leather outside of the eyes when 

on, from two to three inches, and around the side of the face, 

to prevent working over the nose. 

THE BODY FETTERS. 
Another good way is to buckle a surcingle around the 
body where the saddle of the harness rests ; just back of 
each leg an inch and a half ring should be attached to the 




THE SHORT HOBBLE. 117 

surcingle, very strongly. From the rings, buckle an inch 
and a half strap around each arm, just short enough to pre- 
vent the legs being brought forward far enough to move 
freely, but not to enable jumping a fence. It works very 
nicely on some horses, but cannot be relied on in all cases. 

THE SHORT HOBBLE. 

A very good method of disabling a horse in a pasture, 
where he can be under special surveillance, is having two 
little straps that will buckle around the fore-legs above the 
fetlock. To these straps should be attached rings, and con- 
necting with these rings a piece of chain, rope, or strap, of 
twelve to fifteen, or even more inches long ; the shorter, the 
less liable to move : if very short, the horse will stand without 
moving ; but left long enough, he will move sufficiently to 
eat, but not to run. A horse should not be left indefinitely 
with such a fetter on. 

THE SIDE FETTERS. 

In Europe a common method of hobbling horses is a 
piece of small chain, from two feet six inches to three feet in 
length, which has attached to each end a round, hollow ring, 
so hasped that it fits easily and securely around the feet above 
the hoof. These are put on the hind and fore feet of one 
side, compelling the horse, when he moves, to take both 
those legs up at a time. This is effectual ; but in rough, stumpy 
fields it is not safe to confine the legs, and should be used 
with caution. The common poke is objectionable, because 
it spoils the mane, and is liable to excoriate the neck. If 
you do use this means, and especially on colts that run in 
back pastures, see by all means that the poke is well fitted, 
so that it will not chafe ; and if you can, even at a little 
trouble and expense, wind the top part and half-way down 
the neck, on each side, with a piece of sheepskin, which 
will protect the mane and prevent soreness. I have seen 
horses have fearful sores upon the neck, from the carrying of 
a rough yoke. The jumper first given, all things considered, 
is the best in an open pasture : it gives the horse perfect 
freedom, and cannot injure in any way. 



GENERAL ADVICE. 



You should first take a general look at the horse you de- 
sire to treat, and get as good an understanding as you can of 
the disposition and character. Keep in mind next that the 
horse does not know what you want to do with him, and that 
he is, in his possible resistance, only acting out the natural 
impulses of his nature for protection. His impression is that 
you are an enemy. You must prove to him that you are a 
protector and friend. Imagine yourself in his place, and how 
you would act if hurt, abused, and frightened, and that you 
could not understand what was said to you. Do not, as 
many seem to do, jump at the conclusion that a horse must 
know what you say to him, and that if he does not obey you, 
you will make him do so, with the whip or something else. 
What would you think of a teacher, who, without trying to 
explain and simplify the lesson so that it could be compre- 
hended, should punish and abuse for not doing what the 
child could not understand? Imagine the colt a child of 
another form. Now, the worst thing you can do is to 
get the child afraid and confused; for then, while depriv- 
ing of conditions reasonably necessary to learn, the bad part 
of the nature is excited by fear and hostility, which, at the very 
start, must throw the mind and feelings all out of harmonious 
action to work well. When confused and excited, the colt, 
or grown horse, acts in the same way. Now, you must aim 
to guard as much as you can against this sort of confusion 
and excitement when you take a horse in hand. You must 
see plainly that a nervous, sensitive horse cannot be handled 
as roughly as, or bear the excitement that, a cold-blooded one 
will. A quick, nervous, excitable colt, for example, would 
be likely to be ruined by a few cuts of the whip, or doing 
any thing that would greatly excite the fears. This class 
must be handled delicately, firmly, and patiently. 
118 



GENERAL ADVICE. 119 

To show the importance of keeping the subject free from 
excitement, and of touching just right, I will refer to a marked 
case during last season. A fine Knox colt, a stallion four 
years old, was owned by Mr. Stevens, a sharp horseman in 
Lancaster, N.H. This colt was wonderfully nervous, but a 
very fine, intelligent one. Wishing to take every possible 
care, regardless of expense, to have the colt broken well, 
Mr. Stevens employed a horse-breaker of good reputa- 
tion, forty miles away from there, to break the colt for 
him. Before going to Lancaster, I visited the town where 
this horse-trainer lived. He told me about the trouble he 
had with the colt ; that he had him there six weeks, and did 
every thing with him he could think of; that he was a devil, 
lunging and throwing himself, doing every thing mean. Citi- 
zens told me the man had abused the colt so much, they had 
to arrest him for cruelty. After keeping the colt six weeks, 
and doing all he could to break him, he was compelled to 
send him home to the owner, unbroken ; and he said to me, 
" When you go to Lancaster you will get him to handle." 

Some weeks after, when forming a class in Lancaster, 
Mr S. was pointed out to me : he kept away from me, an 
indifferent spectator. I was a little provoked at his in- 
difference, and, walking up to him, urged him to give me 
his personal attention. He told me candidly that he had 
no confidence whatever in me ; that he had seen all the 
horse-trainers, &c. ; that he knew all he wanted to know 
about it j told me about his colt, and that he did not know 
what to do with him. I said to him, " Bring your colt here 
immediately, and I will tell you in two minutes just what 
I can do with him. I think I know what the trouble is, 
and I will put you in the way of breaking him without any 
trouble." The colt was brought forward for inspection. 
I found him a remarkably intelligent but sensitive fellow. 
I informed the owner on the instant that I could drive 
him gently in harness, in fifteen minutes, and that in an 
hour he would be as gentle as an old horse. He said he 
could not believe any human power could do it ; that it 
was impossible. The man was fearfully incredulous and 
hostile : he believed me, he said, either a humbug of the 
worst kind, or wonderfully skilful ; and he could not tell 
which. Now, there was no trouble at ull in controlling 



120 GENERAL ADVICE. 

this colt, and driving him in the time named. He was 
driven in the street the next day, perfectly gentle. A week 
afterwards Mr. Stevens informed me that he was all right ; 
and when he saw the colt driven gently, he laughed, say- 
ing he gave it up ; that it seemed incredible that I could 
do it. The point of surprise to him, as to all others, is, that 
such horses will submit so easily and quickly. Had I 
excited this horse in the least, it would have been impos- 
sible for me to put him in shafts safely : instead, I held 
him by passive treatment until I got his confidence, and 
could reason with him, when he worked in smoothly and 
as easily as any colt I ever handled, driving him without 
breeching, and allowing the cross-piece to come against 
the quarters, &c. Now, a cold-blooded horse would bear 
a great deal of exciting force and work in all right, while 
any treatment that would irritate the other would precipi- 
tate the most reckless into resistance ; hence the trouble. 

A very nervous, high-strung balker, for example, a horse 
that will not stand, and if not given his own way is irrita- 
ble and ugly, but otherwise a gentle worker. You must 
work upon such slowly and carefully ; passive treatment, 
followed by double hitch and war-bridle : the main point 
is to exhibit all the power you can, avoiding excitement, 
and afterwards working gently, going over your ground 
slowly, constantly winning and flattering by rewards of 
apple, &c. This temperament, when trained in balk- 
ing, or will not stand, sets and fixes very slowly in new 
habits : they are impulsive, inclined to the habit when 
irritated and excited. A condition of great success is 
guarding against this, and winning the better nature into 
harmony with your efforts: consequently you must go 
slowly, making what you want done habitual by practice 
and kindness, until you are confident the horse will con- 
tinue obedient. If it is to stand after a sharp lesson, to 
show your power, go to the head, give apples or something 
else of which fond, stopping and starting, and rewarding 
carefully at each repetition, going farther and farther back, 
until you can get in and out of the wagon, and hold your 
point by the attention and confidence you have inspired. 
You will remember that hitting and jerking a delicate 
horse of this kind would undo very quickly a great deal of 



THE SULKY CHARACTERISTICS. 121 

good work. This class of disposition make willing, indus- 
trious workers, and must have a gentle hand and cool 
head to direct them. Nervous, excitable runaways, horses 
spoiled perhaps by the wagon striking the heels, or being 
upset, you must not fail to be very thorough with. Go over 
your primaiy treatment several times, if necessary, to 
make your foundation thorough, so that there is no fear of 
the shafts striking the quarters, the rein being put under 
the tail, &c; that in hitching or unhitching, you can, with- 
out exciting any fear or resistance, run the shafts between 
the legs or against the belly and quarters. After you do 
it by this course of subjection, you must follow up on the 
winning plan. Fill your pockets with apples, and win the 
confidence of the horse completely, by rewarding with an 
occasional piece or two, but all this time industriously 
putting your shafts in every way against and around the 
legs, and drive without breeching. All this should not 
require over an hour to do in the most thorough manner. 
Next day, you must, as it were, partially repeat this lesson, 
until the confidence of the animal is fully restored. It is 
no feat to drive the average of these colts, no matter how 
excitable, in twenty to thirty minutes : a little kind treat- 
ment afterwards completely setting the character. I do it 
without trouble before my class, almost daily. 

the sulky; chabactebisttcs. 
We have now the opposite extreme, which is equally ex- 
ceptional. The nervous temper will always work in quickly 
and smoothly when treated skilfully and kindly ; not so the 
bull-dog nature. When well stirred into a fight, they are the 
most disagreeable of all horses to handle ; for they do not 
seem to be willing to do any thing without coercion. The 
point here is, if you find the horse sullenly reckless, and you 
have pushed all you think it is prudent to do, though the 
horse will seem as bad as ever, stop until he becomes com- 
pletely cool and over the excitement: go to work now 
carefully, and the subject will usually work in as easily as 
any ordinary colt. A horse, for example, that will not back, 
and will throw himself down, no matter how stubborn he 
acts, will, when cool, work in without much difficulty. In 
some rare cases, the horse may warm up to as hard a resist- 



122 THE SULKY CHARACTERISTICS. 

ance as at first ; but repetition will in all cases give success. 
You simply must take more time, and hang on. There are 
many horses I make it a point, if possible, to get as sore 
and sensitive, muscularly, as I can, before I think of pushing 
for the point of breaking up the habit, when I know I can 
succeed. Whereas, to attempt to do so at first, without the 
advantage of increased sensibility, would be most annoying 
and difficult. There are horses of great endurance, not 
fleshy, and showing a cat-like wildness. They are bad; 
but I make them yield easily as soon as I make the points 
of perfect obedience. I set the character by kind, winning 
treatment. Trust nothing to chance you can provide 
against. Be careful and thorough : this is often more than 
half the secret of success. Try to see, at all times, that you 
must trust to and be guided by your head, and that as soon 
as you get mad, or lose control of yourself, you are throwing 
away the strongest points of your real strength. There is 
nothing made by this, — every thing to lose. So, if you are 
hasty-tempered and passionate, make up your mind at all 
hazards to keep master of yourself. This will be a great 
point accomplished. Do not talk much to a horse you are 
breaking, and do not be yelling at the top of your voice 
what you have to say. A good disciplinarian never says 
much, but is right to the point, and is exact in command. 
Continual talking will soon make a horse indifferent to com- 
mand. Then, a horse can hear as well as you can, and 
there is no need of talking above an ordinary tone of voice. 
But be exact in requiring obedience to every command. 
Another point I would call your special attention to : you 
cannot be wholly guided and governed by arbitrary rules. 
The keen perception and broad comprehension of principles 
that can see what to do and how much to do to harmonize 
with the temperament, intelligence, and habit, are a quality 
that must be in the man, and are as necessary for success as 
the use of right principles. This quality must be, as it 
were, merged with nicety into the other; and it is here 
you exalt the study and performance of this duty to an 
exact science. You may ask what is the real key of my suc- 
cess. I know with great accuracy the disposition and char- 
acter of a horse the instant brought before me, and I know 
just what treatment to apply with most success, and I know 



THE SULKY CHARACTERISTICS. 123 

how much must be done to make success sure. You must 
be, as it were, to be more than ordinarily successful, full of 
the subject : all its conditions and phases must be clear to 
the mind. Then you will not make mistakes. Never get 
discouraged by failure. Keep success always before your 
mind. 

It was by defeats and failures I was led to study tempera- 
ments, and forced to adopt new principles of subjection, 
which I was in time able to combine into a system which 
covers every condition of difficulty. This knowledge I have 
tried faithfully to impart to you; and your success must 
depend in a great measure upon your prudence and the 
thoroughness of your efforts in applying them. It is only 
when you rise above the average scale of effort, that achieve- 
ment is commendable and worthy of honor. You must put 
thought, tempered with patience and purpose, into your 
efforts. There must be sobriety and conviction of responsi- 
bility, that will make you see and feel your highest and truest 
interest to yourself demands rising above influences which 
lower and destroy self-respect and manhood. There is no 
enemy so dangerous as intemperance. The generosity and 
warm-heartedness of horsemen leads to this ; and just so 
far as you yield yourself to it, you are planting the seeds of 
derangement and injury upon your nature from which you 
must experience keen misfortune. 



TROTTING. 

A good walking gait should be the foundation of the 
training. Continue this walking lesson until the colt is 
thoroughly gentle and submissive, and has learned to walk 
with energy. Now gradually let out on a moderate trot, 
holding up often, gradually letting out a little faster, as the 
strength and education will bear, but never so as to cause 
fatigue. Those muscles that are brought most into use are 
most largely developed, and bear in mind also that a coll 
has neither the strength or bottom of an old horse, to beai 
either much exertion, or to be pushed in his gait, and can 
not at once act the part of a fast going well trained horse. 



124 TROTTING. 

Let this jogging be continued, gradually as there is ambi- 
tion and the road is smooth and descending; but let out 
only so fast, or to the point that the gait is held even and 
square ; and at first should be pushed only a short distance, 
after which pull back to a walk and speak encouragingly. 
This is to be repeated, gradually going a little faster, but 
never to the point of exhaustion, always encouraging with 
a kind word or two after doing well. I would here caution 
against hitching the colt to a heavy wagon or sulky. The 
weight must be reduced as much as possible, and the better 
to facilitate the object, always let the bursts of speed be on 
a smooth, slightly descending piece of road. By this pre- 
caution you will remove all drag, and the horse is able to 
use all his powers to the best possible advantage. 

This careful driving and gradually teaching the animal to 
push forward when commanded is to be continued, but 
however promising, the risk should not be hazarded of 
trotting a race, or a long distance, before the system is 
thoroughly matured and hardened to bear prolonged exer- 
tion. The gait of many fine trotters is ruined by too much 
haste and harshness in training. A horse has not his growth 
until five years old, and should not be put to severe work 
before six or seven years old. It is proved by experience 
that much greater age is necessary to attain great speed. 
Flora Temple made her fastest time of two minutes nineteen 
and three-quarter seconds, when she was fifteen years old, 
at Kalamazoo. Dexter is constantly increasing his speed, 
we are informed, by age and practice; and so it will be 
found with all the best trotters. They were grown into 
great speed by careful, persevering work, by which the 
system is highly developed, the muscles are strengthened 
and hardened, and useless foul matter that would obstruct 
the free action of the heart and lungs, and increase the 
weight, is removed. 

Should the horse break when pushed in his gait, he should 
not be pulled up too suddenly, which would slacken his 
speed. Rather encourage him to go faster, and by gently 
and firmly pulling right and left bring him to the trot. The 
horse has now no disposition to resist control, and he must 
be taught to rely upon with confidence, as well as yield 
submission to the control and restraint of the bit. 



TO FORCE ON THE TROT, 125 

TO FORCE ON THE TROT. 

There are many promising steppers that will break and 
run, and will not come down to work again, when much 
excited ; and unless there is power to prevent such a habit 
and force on the trot, the horse cannot be relied upon in a 
race, at perhaps the very instant pushing is necessary. 
There is not power to do this by the bit, and consequently 
horses that step freely in private become foolish and unre- 
liable when urged in company with other horses. There is 
but one way of overcoming this trouble, and that is by the 
use of the following means, the conception of which has 
been original with myself, and brought to the notice of 
trainers by me for several years, and has proved in skillful 
hands a valuable adjunct, to the end of making flighty, ner- 
vous horses come down to fast, reliable going. 

Have made first four straps 
long enough to go around the 
hind legs above the hocks, 
and from three quarters to an 
inch wide. Obtain next two 
D's or rings, in size to admit 
two each of these straps 
to be run through. Step 
in front of each hind leg and 
buckle these straps around 
the leg, one above and one 

. . °' , . . . Cure for Breaking. 

below the gambrel, the ring 

or D in front, bringing the straps to an acute angle. Put 
on the head a light well-fitting halter. Attach a strap to 
this, which must be in part double to regulate the angle, 
and must be long enough to extend from the head to the 
back edge of the girt. On the end is to be attached a 
small, nice, easy running pulley, fitted to run a half-inch 
cord. The strap is to pass back from the halter, between 
the legs, over the belly-band, just back of which must come 
this pulley. Take next a piece of firm, hard cotton or hemp 
cord, from three-eighths to half an inch in size. Run it 
through the pulley to the center, and tie the ends into the 
D's or rings attached to the hind legs; the whole to be so 
regulated in length that the horse can walk or trot easily. 
This is similar to the kicking straps described on page 78. 




126 TO FORCE ON THE TROT. 

(See cut.) One leg going forward to the degiee that the 
opposite one goes back, brings no restraint on the cord or 
head, but the instant both feet go back as in the act of 
running, the cord is shortened, the head is drawn back, and 
the horse is taught that he is helpless. He soon learns this 
and becomes afraid to break, though subjected to any rea- 
sonable excitement. With this "rig" on, move the horse 
on a walk until accustomed to it, which will usually require 
but a very short time. Then let out on a moderate trot, 
and when thoroughly accustomed to it pushing to a fast 
gait. This must be repeated. In fact this arrangement 
should be kept on until the horse is made reliable. Should 
be driven and thoroughly practiced with other horses, and 
excitement made as if in a race. Of course all this requires 
ingenuity, patience and care. 

This will work best on some horses by attaching to the 
collar, or around the neck. The restraint is simply more 
positive by this change. 

One gentleman in Ohio, two years since, came one 
hundred and fifty miles to get this treatment of me, and in 
three months afterwards he informed me that he had since 
sold a mare for fifteen hundred dollars which he had bought 
for three hundred and seventy-five dollars. She would 
break when in the least excited, and could be made nothing 
of, though a fast stepper. He bought her, made the experi- 
ment, and in less than a month had her down fine, and 
could hold her under the whip regardless of yelling and the 
excitement of competing horses. This gentleman informed 
me he then had a horse that promised equally good results 
by this treatment. 



To make a pacing horse trot, the cords are crossed from the hind leg on one 
side to the fore leg on the other. Can make a pacing horse trot in a few 
minutes. 



BREEDING. 



12: 



BBEEDIJSG. 




Intelligent and Gentle. 



One of the primary points 
of success is to start right, 
and in no respect is this 
more essential than in breed- 
ing. The law of like pro- 
ducing like is inexorable ; 
consequently it is seen that 
to raise good horses, good 
horses must be bred from. 
Many farmers who are other- 
wise keenly alive to their 
interest, are singularly 
thoughtless and imprudent 
in this. If a mare is broken 
down and unfit for labor, no 
matter how coarse, badly 
formed, or what the evidence 
of constitutional unsoundness, she is reserved to breed from. 
Again the cheapest horse, no matter how coarse if sleek 
and fat, is selected and employed to breed from. The most 
ignorant farmer is particular to select the largest and soun- 
dest potatoes, the cleanest wheat and oats, for seed, etc. 
He has learned this is 
true economy. Yet 
there seems to be the 
most utter disregard 
of this law of pru- 
dence in the breed- 
ing of horses and 
farm stock in general. 
During my long ex- 
perience before the 
public, I have en- 
deavored to impress 
upon farmers, when 
I could, that this sort 
of economy is like 
paying a quarter for a 

chicken, and giving a d u 11 and Treacherous 

dollar to have it taken home. 




128 



BREEDING. 



It costs just as much to raise a poor, coarse blooded colt, 
as a fine blooded one. The cost of feeding and care is 
really the same, the only difference in cost being in that of 
the use of the horse. The first will possibly sell when five 
years old and trained to harness, for from a hundred 
to a hundred and fifty dollars. The other is worth 
from three hundred to a thousand, and possibly more. 
The first will scarcely sell for the cost of feeding and 
care. The second ensures a large profit, and this for 
a little additional first cost. And then the satisfaction of 
having fine valuable animals, that can go along if necessary, 

able to do any kind 
of work easily, and 
saleable for a larger 
price, is a source of 
no ordinary pleasure 
and encouragement, 
if from no other 
feeling than that of 
contributing so 
largely to increased 
economy and wealth. 
The fact is, breeding 
from poor, unsound 
horses is so much a 
detriment, that it 
would be a damage 
to any one to be 
compelled to breed from such stock, if given for the purpose. 




Naturally Sensitive and Shy. 



IN RUSSIA, PRUSSIA AND AUSTRIA, 

the breeding of horses is controlled by the governments, 
each one having large breeding establishments, where those 
wishing, can procure sound stallions, devoid of all heredi- 
tary diseases. Each stallion is furnished with a certificate 
from the government. No other stallions are allowed to 
serve mares, under a penalty. The result is, that you will 
scarcely find an unsound horse, except by accidents, etc. 
Hereditary diseases, such as ophthalma, roaring, rupture, 
spavin, ringbone, curby hock, spongy feet, etc., scarcely 
known. It would be a source of undoubted economy and 
benefit to the breeders, if the legislature of each State would 



BREEDING. 129 

enact such laws, by appointing competent inspectors to 
grant licenses to those free from blemish or hereditary dis- 
eases or unsoundness. 

A few years' breeding, under such restrictions, would 
materially increase the value of horses in each State, and 
thus be a real blessing to owners and the country. 

In selecting a stallion, look first carefully at his head. The 
nostrils should be large and well defined ; eyes, that they 
are full, bright, and clear ; good breadth between the eyes ; 
the ears lively and rather short and tapering, and the head 
high between the ears; next, that the throat shows no en- 
largements of the glands, showing a disposition to be a 
whistler or roarer; next, the shoulder should be oblique, 
strong and high; then the fore leg, see that it is not tied in 
(as it is termed) under the knee, for such are liable to 
spring; then the feet should be of good size, sufficient 
depth to be strong in the quarters; spongy and flat feet 
should be rejected; next, the loin should be strong, the 
back should be well coupled, quarters broad from point to 
point of hips, and running nearly straight out to root of 
tail ; stifle should stand low and well out ; hocks broad and 
strong; no puffs or wind galls, as it indicates weakness. 
As a colt from such a horse at an early age, may show indi- 
cations of blood spavin or thorough pin, look at the inside 
of the hock, an enlargement at the point of what is called 
a jack spavin or curb, enlargement on the back of the leg ; 
next, at the foot, that there is no enlargement at the edge 
of the hoof, known as ringbone ; weak eyes, or blindness, 
poll evil, fistula of withers, or in fact any cause of unsound- 
ness should discard a stallion. I need not remind that the 
mare should be selected with the same care. Heaves, 
broken wind, and marked contraction of the feet should 
discard a horse, and I would by all means discard a bad 
tempered one. The horse should be in good health or con- 
dition. This implies that he has been subjected to moder- 
ate but regular exercise during the season. A horse that is 
driven hard and hurried from place to place, perhaps over- 
heated and made to cover from two to four or five mares a 
day, should be regarded as unsafe, and the colt liable to 
lack vitality. 

To be successful in breeding any particular variety of 
horses requires first decision as to the purpose for which 



130 THE MARE. 

intended. To be particular requires first, intention as to 
purpose for which intended. If heavy draft horses, evenly 
trotting roadsters, or ponies are required, select both dam 
and sire with special reference to the kind of stock wanted. 
If the mare is light boned or defective, select a heavier 
boned horse, one that possesses the contrast of greater 
strength or better points in that respect. But to ensure 
much certainty of what you would have, the mare and 
horse should be as nearly the type desired as possible, 
though not related. I would be very particular about dis- 
position and intelligence. The head should be broad 
between the eyes, muzzle small, short or middling short 
from eyes to ears. The smaller and rounder the eyes, the 
more positive will be the temper. (See cuts.) To have a 
horse sensitive, intelligent, courageous, and naturally docile, 
there must be large brain, the eye must be large, standing 
well out, and mild in expression. 

Of course it is understood that bad treatment will 

SPOIL THE BEST TEMPERED HORSES, AND GOOD TREATMENT 
WILL MAKE GOOD SAFE ANIMALS OF THE WORST. 

THE MARE. 

The mare is said to go with foal eleven months or three 
hundred days ; but it is not uncommon for mares to have 
fully developed foals in much less time, and in many 
instances mares have been known to go four or five weeks 
beyond this time. Time should be so arranged in putting 
mares, that the colts will come at a time when there is some 
grass, as the mare will do better not to be confined to dry 
feed. The virgin mare, or one that has not had a colt, for 
one season, must be put when she is found in season. The 
mare that has had a colt will be found in season, and should 
be put on the eighth or ninth day after foaling ; some prefer 
the eighth, others the eleventh. Good judges claim that it 
is dangerous to go beyond the tenth, as the mare is apt to 
come off her heat soon after, and if allowed to go to a later 
period, the sucking of the colt is likely to reduce the mare 
too much to allow conception to take place, and thus a 
year's service of the breeder is lost. 

After putting a mare, the days for trial are the ninth after 
service, the seventh after this, the fifth after this again. 



STAELING. 131 

Some commence again, commencing with the ninth day 
and follow up as before, making forty-two days. Twenty- 
one days being the period elapsing between a mare's going 
out of heat, and coming in again, making her periodical 
term thirty days. Twenty-one days is claimed to be suffi- 
cient to prove a mare. 

The mare and colt should be well fed, and protected 
from storms. The theory of working a mare hard, and 
half starving the colt, is the poorest kind of economy, 
since the mare needs generous feed and rest, to renew her 
strength and make her milk, by which of course the colt is 
nourished and made to grow. When size and strength will 
indicate that it is time to wean, which is usually in five or 
six months, put the colt in a quiet pasture, away from the 
mare, where it should be closely looked after. A little 
oats, (better if bruised,) should be given daily. 

The conclusion of careful breeders is, that it is much 
better for a colt to run in pasture, than to be confined in a 
stable. If the colt is intended for farm use, castration may 
be performed when six months old ; if, however, the withers 
are light, it should be postponed until the head and neck 
fills up to the degree required, and this may require from 
one to two years, or even more. If the head is large and 
heavy, early castration is advisable. Colts should be gen- 
erously fed, and protected from the inclemency of the 
weather in winter. They should be treated gently. May 
be broken early to harness, if treated gently and with care. 
This, however, is hazardous, as there is danger of over- 
driving young colts if they are driven at all. Many seem 
to take pride in trials to which they subject two or three 
year old colts. It is not what they can do, but what they 
ought "to be required to do. 

STABLING. 

Pure air is not only an absolute essential in securing and 
retaining the perfect health of horses, but is the cheapest 
and most easily available. The stable should be so located 
and constructed as to enable this most perfectly, as well as 
afford the greatest convenience and comfort, thus ensuring 
health and economy. It should be built on a dry, airy 
location, facing the south, large enough to give ample 



132 STABLING. 

loom, warm and well lighted, yet well ventilated. The 
stalls should be at least five feet wide for work horses, and 
if fine horses that are worked but little, they should be 
large enough to enable stepping around freely. If there is 
room, a box stall is the best, but it should not be close. 
The door, at least, should be made of slats, and a window 
above the head, so arranged that it can be thrown open to 
give light and ventilation. The door should be large, to 
preclude injury by striking the sides or hips against the 
posts, and there should be a reasonably large yard, which 
should be well fenced. If a manger and rack of the com- 
mon form across the stall is used, I would suggest an im- 
provement upon that in general use. 

First. It should be so constructed that the horse cannot 
waste the feed while eating, yet should not be very high — 
the top about three and a half feet from the floor. 

The rack, instead of sloping out over the head of the 
horse, should stand straight, or perpendicular, which will 
prevent hay seed and dust from falling upon the horse's 
head, and enable catching and pulling the hay more easily 
from the rack, and the back so inclined forward that the 
hay will all the time be in the horse's reach. The bottom 
should be open like the front, so that the dust can drop 
through to the floor. 

The best form of manger I have seen, both for conve- 
nience, safety and health, is that so constructed that there 
is an alley in front of the head. The place for hay is a 
sort of box, on one side of which is a feed box, which 
should be large enough to prevent throwing the feed out 
while eating. The hitching ring should be on the off or 
farther side, to prevent the strap being caught by the foot. 
The manger should be about on a level with the shoulders. 
The nearer the horse is made to imitate his position when 
eating in the field the better. But this is not admissible in 
the construction of the manger, since the horse would 
waste the feed. This form of feeding box and manger is 
cleaner. There is not that temptation to give more hay at 
a time than the horse may need. The manger can be 
reached easily and safely; in feeding the hay is easily 
thrown upon the floor, where it can be easily shaken up 
and thrown fresh and palatable to the horse. It obviates 
the usual temptation of a receptacle under the manger, is 



STABLING. 133 

which to pack, during the day, a lot of poisonous bedding, 
and finally there is the best of ventilation, as the air can 
freely circulate in front of the manger. Every stable should 
have a sort of chimney, or opening at the top, to allow of 
the bad air to pass out freely. The windows should be so 
placed as to admit light enough that the ordinary work of 
the stable can be done without opening the doors, which 
should have shutters to enable darkening the stable if ne- 
cessary, when flies are troublesome, or to permit sleep in 
the day time, which is often necessary. The walls, if any, 
in front should not be whitewashed, as is often done, as 
pure white would injure the eyes. The color should be 
made neutral by adding some brown or other coloring mat- 
ter. A cellar stable, unless so constructed as to enable at 
all times the most perfect ventilation, is dangerous; yet one 
of the best stables I have seen was what would be termed a 
cellar stable, which was simply a series of box mangers 
running across the whole size of the building, with a pas- 
sage-way running lengthwise through the centre, thus giving 
free access to each range from the end, from which was a 
run-way to the floor above ; but there was a series of little 
open grates around the entire room near the ceiling, which 
gave perfect ventilation. A special point I would call at- 
tention to, viz. : not having, on any condion, a stall so 
constructed as to have a stone or brick wall on one side, or 
have the naked wall form one side of a stall. The temper- 
ature of one side is so much lower than that of the other, 
that derangement of the circulation must result, causing 
cold and injury that is often the cause of spoiling a valuable 
horse. If a stall is so located, line the wall with dank. 
The construction of farmer's stables is generally bad, the 
stalls being too narrow and short, the hay rack too high, 
and the top part standing too far forward over the head. 
In many cases they are but little better than a close dark 
box, without any adequate means of ventilation wtien the 
doors are closed, and if they are open there is usually so 
much draft of air as to cause cold, just as those occurrying 
a close, warm room are made to feel keenly anv smiden 
current of cold air that may be admitted into the room by 
too suddenly throwing the doors open while warm The 
sudden influx of cold air would check perspi.ration and ^Inse 
the pores of the skin, thereby endangering some acute fai nc 
of inflammation. 



134 FEEDING. 

Again, the stables are usually built over a cellar, which is 
perhaps half rilled with water and manure that throws up- 
ward through the floor a deadly miasma that lays the found- 
ation of disease. The rack is crammed with hay, the dust 
and dirt of which is forced against the horse's nose. The 
manger is half filled with filth and trash. The bedding, 
thoroughly impregnated with ammonia, is rolled under 
the manger in the morning, to saturate and poison the hay 
above it in the rack, or such other food as may be given the 
animal. The usual bad ventilation and high temperature 
of cellar stables make too great and violent a change in the 
temperature when taken in or out, and the consequence will 
be cold cough, with great disposition to attacks of pneu- 
monia, or lung fever. Humanity and true self interest 
should prompt to looking to these errors being corrected in 
the construction of the horse's places of living, and as these 
ends can be attained without any extra expense worthy of 
consideration that is necessary for the construction of a 
poor one, it is a duty which is a really suicidal policy to 
neglect. 

I would suggest, in conclusion, that the flooring of stalls 
or a stable should never be made of hard wood, such as 
oak, ash, chestnut, etc., as it wears smooth and endangers 
slipping and injury of the horse in getting up. The best 
wood for flooring is elm, spruce, hard pine, hemlock, or 
any wood that will wear rough and prevent slipping. 

FEEDING. 

Hay, corn fodder, oats and corn, constitute the principal 
food of horses in this country. Hay and oats in the North- 
ern States, fodder and corn in the South. The food should 
be in quality and quantity to impart strength, vitality and 
elasticity, and this requires some discrimination and care, 
as the food should be harmonized both to the condition, 
and the severity of the labor to which the horse is sub- 
jected. As a rule, the stomach should not be distended 
with food when prolonged, energetic effort is desired, as the 
heart and lungs would thereby be much impeded in their 
action, and congestion and rupturing of or enlarging of the 
air cells of the lungs may result. This is to be especially 
guarded against in the feeding of hay. Greedy eaters car 



FEEDING. 135 

and will gorge themselves by eating so much hay as to be 
unfit for active labor, and is usually shown to result in 
heaves or broken wind. Heaves are always found in the 
teamsters' or carters' stables, where there is no care in feed- 
ing. This disease is always found among horses of the 
above class, but never found among racing horses, from the 
fact that the utmost prudence and care is used in selecting 
the food, and feeding in smaller quantities, or in adapting 
the food more perfectly to the wants of the system. 

It has been demonstrated beyond doubt that the reason 
horses improve so much in wind by eating prairie hay is, 
that it is so coarse that horses cannot eat it fast enough to 
overload the stomach. The quantity of hay should be 
carefully regulated, and never as much given as the horse 
will eat if at all voracious. The majority of owners pack a 
large rack full, allowing either liberty to eat too much, or 
making it unpalatable and unhealthy, by being breathed 
upon. From eight to ten pounds is about the average 
quantity for an ordinary roadster to be allowed in twenty- 
four hours, more or less, according to size, the kind of 
work, and the quantity of grain given. Dusty or mouldy 
hay should not be fed, as it is liable to produce various forms 
of disease. 

All food should be clean, and in quality perfect. Hay is 
most perfect when it is about a year old. Horses would 
perhaps prefer earlier, but it is neither so wholesome nor so 
nutritious, and may purge. When it is a year old it should 
retain much of its green color and agreeable smell.* The 
blades of corn pulled and cured in the summer are unques- 
tionably much better than hay. I should certainly prefer 
this kind of fodder to any kind of hay, for fine horses. It 
is strange that it is not prized more highly in the North. 

Oats make more muscle than corn. Corn makes fat and 
warmth. Hence, the colder the weather, the more corn 
may be given, and the harder the work, the more oats. 
Oats should be a year old, heavy, dry and sweet. New 
oats will weigh from ten to fifteen per cent, more than old 
ones; but the difference is principally water. New oats are 
said to be more difficult to digest, and when in considerable 

* Note 1. — In packing or stacking hay. salt should he slightly sprinkled 
through it so as to detroy insects. It also aids in preserving it bright, and makai 
it more palatable and healthy for the horse. 



136 FEEDING. 

quantity are apt to cause flatulency and derangement of the 
stomach and bowels. The same may be said of corn. If not 
sound and dry, it may be regarded even much more dan- 
gerous than oats, and should not be fed. Doing so will be 
at the hazard of the consequences above mentioned. 

The quantity of oats given daily may vary from eight to 
sixteen quarts. If the horse is large, and the work is severe, 
a little more may be given. Corn should be fed in the ear, 
and like oats must be regulated in quantity to the size and 
labor of the animal ; from five to twelve good sized ears are 
a feed. I give a larger proportion of feed at night, and less 
in the morning and noon. There is ample time for diges- 
tion during the night. There is not during the day, if the 
labor is severe. Experience proves that some mildly cooling 
laxative food should be occasionally given. A bran mash, 
made by pouring boiling water on eight or ten quarts of 
wheat bran, covered over until cool and fed at night, from 
once to three times a week, is the finest and best. 

Carrots are a good laxative and alterative before frost, 
but are too cold and constipating during cold weather. They 
may be fed in October, November and December, but in 
the Northern States not later. (I am governed by the 
judgment of one of the best veterinary surgeons in the 
United States, based upon careful and critical observation 
of effects on a large number of horses, on this point.) I 
feed Irish potatoes, from one to three quarts, with the usual 
quantity of grain, from two to three or four times a week, 
and would recommend their use. Think their value cannot 
be over-estimated. Feeding a small quantity of roots and 
giving bran mashes, keeps the bowels open and the system 
in a uniform, healthy condition. Without them constipa- 
tion is probable, and this is one of the primary causes of 
diarrhoea, colic, or inflammation of the bowels. If it is 
desired to make a horse fat in a short time, feed corn meal 
and shorts, with cut straw, to which add a pint of cheap 
molasses. Nothing like this for recruiting and filling up a 
horse that is out of sorts or poor. If the horse eats too fast, 
put a few round stones in the feed box. He must now pick 
the food from among the stones, and thus he is compelled 
to eat slowly. 

If the horse is exhausted, or when sufficient time cannot 
be allowed for him to eat and partially digest a full meal, 



WATERING. 137 

he may be greatly refreshed by a draught of warm gruel, 01 
in summer, of cold water containing a small quantity of 
meal. To give some idea of the routine of feeding and 
watering when great care is necessary, I include the system 
of feeding and watering Mr. Bonner's famous trotting horse, 
Dexter: 

" At six every morning, Dexter has all the water he wants, 
and two quarts of oats. After eating, he is ' walked ' for 
half an hour or more, then cleaned off, and at nine has two 
quarts more of oats. If no drive is on the card for after- 
noon, he is given a half to three-quarters of an hour of 
gentle exercise. At one o'clock he has oats again, as before, 
limited to two quarts. 

" From three to four, he is driven twelve to fifteen miles; 
after which he is cleaned off and rubbed thoroughly dry. 

" He has a bare swallow of water on returning from the 
drive, but is allowed free access to his only feed of hay, of 
which he consumes from five to six pounds. 

"If the drive has been a particularly sharp one, he is 
treated as soon as he gets in, to a quart or two of oat meal 
gruel; and when thoroughly cooled, has half a pail of 
water and three quarts of oats, with two quarts of bran 
moistened with hot water. 

" Before any specially hard day's work or trial of his 
speed, his allowance of water is still more reduced." 

•WATERING. 

If a large quantity of cold water is taken into the stomach 
while the system is agitated and sensitive, by the circulation 
being so increased as to open the pores of the skin freely, 
it is liable to so chill the stomach as to derange the circula- 
tion and close the pores of the skin, and thus excite some 
one of the common alimentary derangements of colic or 
inflammation of the bowels. Hard water, especially cold 
well water, is more liable to cause mischief in this way than 
soft water. Hard water will derange some horses, so much 
as to show an almost immediate effect of causing the hair to 
look rough or stare, the appetite deranged, if not indeed 
preceded by colic or inflammation of the bowels; also, 
horses that are raised and worked in the country, where the 
water is strongly impregnated with lime, are troubled a 



138 WATERING. 

good deal with intestinal calculi, *. e., stone in the bladder. 
Hence soft water should be given, if convenient; and if 
well water, especially while warm, it should either have the 
chill taken off or be given very sparingly. 

The best time to water is about half an hour before feed- 
ing. While driving, the rule should be little and often. 
None, or only a swallow or two, should be given at the 
close of a drive, until cool. If very warm, the horse should 
be walked moderately where there is not a current of air to 
strike him, from ten to thirty minutes, as may be found 
necessary. If, then, any danger is apprehended, the chill 
should be taken off the water if very cold and given sparingly 
a few swallows at a time. The common custom is to give 
about a half bucket of water. The safest course would be 
to give less and repeat. The rule should be, for ordinary 
use, to give small quantities often during the day, and the 
animal to pursue his journey or labor immediately after. If 
allowed to stand, the system may be chilled. The absor- 
bents are closed, which is the common cause of Laminitis 
or Founder, although this disease may not develop itself 
until twelve or twenty-four hours afterwards, and any cause 
which will chill the system — either cold winds or cold 
water — while the animal is warm, will be almost sure to 
produce the above disease. 



SHOEING HORSES. 



Trimming the hoof. — Form of shoe. — How to cure 

THE WORST CASES OF CONTRACTION. NEW TREATMENT. 

HOW TO CURE ANY CASE OF QUARTER-CRACK AND 

KEEP THE HORSE AT WORK. HOW TO SHOE A STIFF OR 

SORE FOOTED HORSE, SO THAT HE WILL GO BETTER, &C. 



The damage and loss to the people of the country from 

bad shoeing and ignorance of the 

principles of keeping the feet in 

health is almost incalculable. But 

few good horses at maturity do 

not show marked contraction of 
the feet, with 
some one of the 
difficulties arising 
therefrom, of 
corns, thickening 
of the lateral car- 
tilages, quarter- 
crack, thin weak 
heels, and other 
causes of soreness 
and lameness in 
the feet; all trace- 
able to bad shoe- 
ing or ignorance 
of the nature and 
requirements of 

Vof the the foot in shoeing 
bones of the foot, that are naturally the best, and exception- 
ally valuable on account of their great do- 
cility and safety, that are the greatest sufferers from this 
cause. 139 





(No. 1.) 
7 Metacarpal or shank bone. 
11 Sesamoid bones. 
12-13 The great pastern. 
14^15 Little pastern or coronary 
bone. 
16 Coffin bone. 



It is the horses, too, 



140 



SHOEING HORSES. 



In the horse's foot we have one of the most perfect pieces 
of mechanism imaginable, for strength and 
great mobility of action. The bones are 
united, bandaged, and supported in the 
most perfect manner by the tendinous 
structure, through and between which is a 
network of nerves and blood-vessels ; over 
and surrounding this we have the hoof, a 
strong covering of compressible horn, which 
grows down, like the nails on the fingers, 
from the coronary ring under the hair, as 
fast as it would 
wear off on a grass- 
ing surface. This 
hoof, or horny cov- 
ering, comprises 
three natural divi- 
sions, each having 
a peculiarity of 
structure adapted to the require- 
ments of the location. 

The upright wall is 

about three-sixteenths 

of an inch at the heel, 

to three - eighths or 

more of an inch thick 

at the toe. The sole, 

which extends from the 

bars to the point of the 

frog, in an arched form, 




(No. 3.) 

Back view of the 

bones of the foot. 





(No. 4.) 
A side view of some of the car 
tilages supporting the joints. 
c Interosseous, &c. 
t tn t K ' ee Articular ligaments. 

' o Outer cartilage belonging to 
the coffm-bone. 
p The inner cartilage belong- 
ing to the coffin-bone. 



upright 
wall and 
unites with 

it firmly, forms a strong elastic arch, 
that gives the most perfect support 
to the pedal bone. The part com- 
ing immediately under the centre 
and back part is called the frog, 
which is of a peculiar spongy, elas- 
tic structure, and fills up all the space between the heels : ex- 



(No. 5.) 

Side view of the tendons of the 

foot. 



SHOEING HORSES. 



141 



tending forward to the centre of the foot is a continuation of 
the upright shell, which is bent forward, and imperceptibly 
runs into the sole at the point of the frog, and is called the 
bars. The spaces between the bars and frog are called 
commisures, which are peculiarly sharp but strong arches, 
that commence abruptly at the heel, uniting the bars to the 
frog, and running out imperceptibly to the level of the sole 
at the point of the frog. 

These clefts, with the soft, yielding character of the frog, 
give a singularly perfect means of com- 
pressible elasticity and security to the quar- 
ters; and with the soft, spongy frog be- 
tween the heels, the best possible means of 
protecting the bones and tendons of the 
heel from being bruised or injured by con- 
cussion against the ground. The wall or 
upright part is in structure like a bundle of 
hairs or splinters of whalebone glued to- 
gether ; the outside surface being hard and 
bony, while the inside surface runs into a 
soft, yielding, but muscular structure that 
unites it to that of the coffin-bone. This 
is intended to be worn away at the bottom 
as it grows. If it is not worn off, it will ex- 
tend down below the sole, preserving its 
own relation of thickness and form, and 
must be cut away with a knife or other 
means. It is to this wall of horn that the 
shoe is fitted and united. The sole and 
frog scale, and break off, in proportion to the increase of 
growth, and do not, when in health, require touching by the 
smith. 

I have with me a manikin of the foot, showing all its parts 
plainly, — every bone, tendon, nerve, artery, vein, natural 
divisions of the hoof, &c, — which enables a better idea of 
its wonderful mechanism than can be shown by cuts, or any 
amount of labored verbal description. This I will cheerfully 
exhibit to the class, if desired, and explain the parts in detail 
to them. I have also models to illustrate the treatment for 
bringing the foot back to its natural form as desired, and thus 
of easily curing the worst condition of contraction of either 




(No. 6.) 
A front view of the 
tendons of the 
foot. 



142 



SHOEING HORSES. 




or both heels or of quarter-crack, difficulties that have baffled 
the best students of the foot heretofore to do successfully. 
In the first place, we see that in trimming and fitting the 
foot for the shoe, we must be governed by 
the rule of cutting away only the superfluous 
horn of the upright shell, and only so much 
as brings the foot back to its natural shape 
and bearing, no attention whatever to be 
given to the frog and sole, and that the hoof 
must not be cut away enough to permit the 
possible pressure of the shoe upon the sole. 
The object to be attained in the form of the 
shoe is to carry out as nearly as we can by 
it the form of the wall, or this bearing sur- 
face, so as to preserve its freedom and ac- 
tion most naturally, and afford as nearly as 
possible the same relation of pressure of 
the sole and frog upon the ground, and in 
fitting it to the foot, that it will bear evenly 
and naturally upon the wall of the hoof all 
the way round, to prevent any possible 
bruising of the sole or heels. In nailing 
the shoe to the foot, first, the shoe must 
be nailed on strong enough 
to hold it to the hoof firmly 
as long as desired, special 
attention being given to pre- 
vent splitting or breaking 
the horn; second, not to 
bring any restraint upon the 
quarters, so as to preserve 
their freedom independent of the shoe, as the 
foot enlarges with growth; third, that the 
nails are not driven into the sensitive part 
of the foot, which would be a direct cause 
of injury and lameness. In cutting and trim- 
ming the hoof, be careful not to cut away too 
much, — just so much only as is necessary to 
bring the foot back to its natural shape and 
bearing, making an even level surface at least from a sixteenth 
to an eighth of an inch higher than the edge of the sole. 



(No. 7.) 



View of the foot 
with the skin 
and hoof re- 
moved showing 
the arteries and 
some veins of the 
foot. 

1 Vein. 

2 Plantar artery. 

3 Branches to 
the coronary sub- 
stance and laminae. 

4 Posterior divi- 
sion of plantar ar- 
tery. 




A view of the foot 
showing the 
veins. 



SHOEING HORSES. 143 

Neither do I care what you use to cut away the horn with ; 





(No. 9.) (No. 10.) 

a The inside of the hoof as seen at the quarter, b The a a The frog, 

coronary ring, c The little homy plates lining the crust. 6 The sole. 

d The same continued over the bars, e e The two con- c c The bars, 

cave surfaces of the inside of the horny frog. / That d d The crust, 
which externally is the cleft of the frog, g The bars. 
h The rounded part of the heels, belonging to the frog. 

that is not a matter of important consideration here. But 
cutting recklessly until there is no horn to nail to, or cutting 
away the frog, and scooping out the sole thin, or burning the 
shoe into the hoof, should not be per- 
mitted. First take a general look at 
the foot, and if thin-shelled, and does 
not grow horn very fast, be careful 
not to cut away too much at the heel. 
Level down the bearing surface from 
the heel to the toe, but not coming 
too near the level of the sole where 
it unites with the hoof. Do not med- 
dle with the sole or frog. Let this 
scooping out of the sole, and trim- 
ming the frog, be a point you must, 
at all hazards, avoid. 

The old horn preserves the moist- 
ure, and is necessary to shield the 
sole from being bruised, while the frog 
is indispensable for the protection of 
the heel, and cutting it away not only 
removes the natural means of protec- 
tion to the delicate machinery of the 
coffin -joint and tendons above it, but permits such rapid 




(No. 11.) 
A view of sole and frog of 

foot, prepared for tbe 

shoe. This sole should 

not be touched. 

a The heel of the crust. 
c c The quarters of the crust. 
d d The bars as thev should 
be left, with the full frog 
between them, e e The an- 
gles between the heel and 
bars, where corns appear. 
ff The concave surface of 
the toe. 



144 



SHOEING HORSES. 



evaporation of its moisture that it in consequence soon be- 
comes dry and hard, all so far as permitted causing direct 
injury to the foot. Simply level down the wall, and let the 
frog and sole alone. (See special 
reference to this in another part of 
this chapter.) Do not lower the 
bars any more than the level of the 
heel. Round off the sharp edge of 
the toe a little with a rasp, but not 
enough to destroy in the least the 
natural shape of the hoof. (See 
cut, shoe fitted.) You, in fact, aim 
to bring it back to its natural round- 
ed form. The shoe should come 
round evenly, flush with the outer 
edge, but so much longer and 
wider than the heels, as you think 
the foot will grow in the time 
kept on, before resetting. If properly done, there can be 
but little or no chance for pressure upon the sole at the 
angles between the bar and heel. Pressure upon this part of 
the sole must be avoided, there is danger of bruising the sole, 
and breaking the blood-vessels beneath, and causing erTu- 




(No. 12.) 

A view of the foot after the 

hoof had been stuffed off. 





(No. 13.) 
View of a healthy hoof. 



(No. 14.) 

View of the sole and frog of a 

hind-foot. 



sion, which is to be guarded against. The usual cause of 
corns or bruising the sole here, is leaving shoes on so long 
that the growth of the foot draws the shoe forward until the 



SHOEING HORSES. 145 

heel comes directly under the sole, or the heel has been cut 
down so near the level of the sole as to cause direct pressure 
upon it and bruise it, or the heel is worn down and broken, 
allowing gravel to become imbedded under the shoe, and 
to press into the sole at this point. A red spot, or corn, or 
general inflammation of the heel, is the result. The bearing 
all around should be left sufficiently high to prevent the 
shoe touching or resting upon the sole. As to the SHOE, 
I will confine myself to the general form most desirable. 
First, the shoe should in its form carry out as nearly as pos- 
sible the natural function of the wall ; secondly, that it is not 
so thick at heel that it will not raise the frog and sole so high 
as to prevent some contact with the ground ; third, it will 
get sufficient hold upon the ground to prevent slipping. 
The first condition requires that the shoe should approxi- 
mate exactly to the bearing surface of the wall, all the way 
round, from the heel to the toe, and be so accurately fitting 
that there is no appreciable space between. Care should 
be taken, especially at the heel, from the turn of the hoof 
back, that the bearing is cut or rasped so that it is perfectly 
flat. Too often the smith runs the buttress or rasp so 
recklessly, that this part is cut out cup like, the outside 
edge much the highest, so that looking from the outside 
the shoe may seem to fit nicely; the consequence would 
be, the rapid breaking down of this thin edge of horn, leav- 
ing the shoe loose, and permitting gravel to work in under 
the heel and press upon the sole. The point is, when the 
shoe is fitted, see that the bearing surface, of the heel espe- 
cially, be perfectly level, if any thing a little convex, and have 
sufficient horn to support the hoof perfectly. 

BAD PITTING OF SHOE. 

Nine times out of ten, upon critical examination, the 
bearing surface of the shoe, when fitted, will be found 
largely concave at the heel, thereby causing a moderate 
but constant pressure of the quarters together. 

Let the whole surface be flat and smooth, a good even 
fit, coming out flush with edge of the hoof all the way 
round. For light driving, and especially if the hoof is 
light, the shoe should be a thin, flat bar. If the roads are 
hard and stony, and the sole thin, the bar should be rather 



146 



BAD FITTING OF SHOE. 



wide, so as to extend over the sole, but should be per- 
fectly level. This will greatly protect the sole from in- 
jury. If, on the contrary, the horse works on sandy, 
gravelly roads, make the bar rather narrow, which will 
expose the sole and heel to constant, but moderate pres- 
sure upon the ground. Instead of a thick-heeled shoe, 
or spring-heel as it is called, when it is desired to raise 
the heels, corks should be used. A thick heel removes 
all possible pressure from the sole and frog ; while heel- 
corks raise the heel all it is necessary, and their breaking 
into the ground serves to lessen the force of the concus- 
sion, and allows of occasional moderate pressure upon the 




(No. 15.) A shoe fitted as it should be ; comes out under the toe flush with the 
hoof, but represents being drawn under the heel a trifle too much. 

frog and sole. All horses that are sore and stiffened 
should have the toe rounded. Two small corks may be 
placed on each side of the toe, on the under edge, and the 
heel raised pretty well by making the heel-corks high. In 
all cases of the horse being occasionally lame a little, at 
other times better, there is undoubted soreness of the 
heel or of the coffin-joint. The heel should be raised with 
a high-heeled shoe, and the toe rounded. If a colt, it is 
desired to drive and work a little. A thin, flat shoe, or a 
simple clip nailed around the toe, would be just the thing. 
No strictly arbitrary rule can be given, because you must 
adapt to the requirements of the case. Let the nail-holes 



NAILING AND RASPING. 147 

be where you can get the best hold and do the least dam- 
age. If the foot is broken and weak, I have the shoe 
fitted carefully, but omit punching the holes. Now put 
the shoe in place, and with a pencil mark where you can 




(No. 16.) The bearing surface as it should be made, perfectly level. It is not 
a matter of any account to seat or lower the inside edge as here represented. 
If the hoof is not trimmed down too close to the level of the sole, the sur- 
face may be left flat. 

get the best nail-hold, nailing into the strong horn of the 
toe all you can. In thin shoes I allow no creases made. 
Make the holes large enough to let the head in deep and 
strong. For light shoes I prefer steel ; and for summer 
use would not use corks. 

NAILING AND RASPING. 

For a light shoe and foot a No. 5 globe nail is heavy 
enough; and if you will drive two in the toe, you can 
drive eight nails, and not do any more harm to the hoof 
than you would ordinarily with six, and have less danger 
of losing the shoe. Any way, drive the nail deep enough 



148 NAILING AND RASPING. 

to get a good hold, which you can easily do, if you have left 
horn enough, and confine yourself to nailing on the out- 
side and around the toe firmly. The quarters must be 
given all the freedom possible to prevent any external 
pressure on them. There should be no rasping under 
the clinches, and but a bare rounding-off of the sharp 
edge at the toe. The hoof should not be cut away to the 
shoe, because the shoe may be a little short, or sets well 




(No. 17.) The ground surface showing the location of the nail-holes to enable 
giving all the freedom possible to the quarters, so that as the foot grows 
there is no compression upo i the quarters. 

back under the toe. Preserve the hoof in its natural 
shape and bearing, regardless of what the shoe may be. 
If necessary, smooth off the clinches a little, but omit 
any thing like an effort to give the surface a nice finish 
by rasping the whole or any part of the surface above the 
nail-holes, and the less below them the better. In the 
first place, the outside of the shell is by far the hardest, 
strongest, and toughest, and should be preserved and made 



THE SHOE. — BEST FORM. 



149 



use of all you can. In the second place, rasping away the 
surface permits rapid evaporation of moisture, that causes 
a direct tendency to make it dry and hard, and* of contract- 
ing it. Hence the advantage of covering the hoof and 
frog with a preparation that will prevent evaporation in 
the treatment of weak, contracted feet. The outside of 
the hoof should be let alone all you possibly can, doing 
nothing for your foolish idea of making a nice-looking 
foot as it leaves the shop. The smith will usually insist 
upon running the corner of the rasp under the clinches ; 
may tell you he cannot make a nice job. Pay no atten- 
tion to this : simply have the clinches turned down strong- 
ly, touch the rough corners and edges, no more, with the 
file, and when done you will be glad you followed my ad- 
vice. Shoes should be reset as often as every five or six 
weeks. 

THE SHOE. -BEST FORM. 

I will now say a few words about the shoe ; and I would 
remind that I cannot here do more than suggest general 
principles, the condition of foot work, &c, requiring 
modification to suit each case. The nearer you keep 
the frog to holding the same relation of pressure to 





(No. 18.) (No. 19.) 

View of a foot that has heen cut away The bearing surface left so high that 
too much, bringing the shoe too near the sboe cannot rest upon the sole, 
the sole, and the nails are driven too and showing how the nails should 

near the edge ; liable to split and be driven to get a good hold; start- 
break off, and spoil the hoof. ed in deep, but brought out low. 

the ground that it had before shoeing, or before the 
foot has been meddled with by the shoer, the better. 
Second, the nearer you make the shoe on the ground 
surface the form of the rim of the foot before being 
cut away, the better. The toe, you notice, is always 



150 



THIN-HEELED SHOES. 



EXPERIMENTS. 



worn rounding a little : consequently, to be exact, let the 
heels be drawn back rather thin, and the toe turned up a 
little in the order of a sled-crook, and concave, the middle 
part, and toe the outer edge cup-shape, touching the 
ground first. Such a shoe should be made of steel to be 
stiff enough, and will wear much slower than iron. Soft 
iron will wear out too quickly. Still better, in my judg- 
ment, is drawing down the heels of the shoe to a wedge- 
like shape, so that there is just room enough to run out 
to an edge at the point of the heel, which may be turned 





(No. 20.) 

A view of a foot with the shoe as it 

should be fitted. 



(No. 21.) 
View of a foot with the shoe too short. 
The toe is not only cut away too 
much, but the heei is too short. 
Will soon spoil the foot. 



up a little over the heel. This enables all that is required 
for preserving the foot, and gives the sole and frog nat- 
ural contact with the ground. You should do something 
towards supplying the feet with moisture when standing 
much in the stall. The course I take during the day is to 
throw a little bedding under the fore-feet, upon which I 
throw water enough to wet it. At night remove this, and 
put in dry bedding, or you can mix some flaxseed meal 
with water, and stuff the feet. 

THIN-HEELED SHOES. — EXPERIMENTS. 

Some years ago a well-known veterinary surgeon called 
my attention to experiments made by a livery man, who took 
it into his head to shoe his horses with tips, or thin-heeled 
shoes. All alike were shod in this way. He said "many of 
them had sore and weak heels, and corns, and I thought he 
would spoil the horses by such shoeing, and driving them on 



THIN-HEELED SHOES. EXPERIMENTS. 



151 



the hard-paved streets of the city ; but, to my surprise, in a 
few weeks they got over the soreness, the feet became strong 
and healthy, and he had no trouble with corns or weak heels." 
I noticed, long ago, that when the shoe was worn thin, letting 
the frog and sole have contact with the ground, and espe- 
cially in horses that were worked on sod that would give and 
press upon the heel, the feet were the most healthy and strong, 
and less disposed to contract. I have noted also that healthy 
feet that were shod with thick or high-heeled shoes, that raises 
the frog and sole from all contact with the ground, soon 
became dry ; and if the foot was at all disposed to contract, 
there was a rapid drawing in or contracting of the heels. 
One of my horses had his shoes worn down quite thin : the 
feet were in good condition, though not over strong, having 
been foundered, and suffered from contraction, which I cured 
by the treatment I give for contraction under that head. 
One shoe was lost, and in the hurry of business I was unable 
to give my personal attention to his shoeing. A heavy, 
coarse shoe, with large heel and toe corks, was put on. The 
heel was raised at least three-fourths of an inch from the 
ground. I pointed out at once the defect, and said I in- 
tended to have the shoe replaced by 
a flat, thin shoe. But the pressure of 
business caused me to neglect the 
matter. In two weeks that foot was 
quite tender, dry, and hard, and very 
sensibly contracted ; while the other, 
with its old thin shoe, was soft, large, 
and healthy. I put on an ordinary 
thin, flat shoe, with bearing surface at 
the heels, a little convex. I poulticed 
the foot two or three times to remove 
the inflammation and soften it; and 
in a short time the foot was all right, 
looking as healthy and strong as the 
other. This past season I had a very intelligent horseman 
in my class, who inquired as to the best way to shoe horses. 
I told him to keep the feet natural, bring the heel to the 
ground : if dry and hard, apply moisture, by tying wet rags 
around the foot and stuffing. Said he, " That is just what I 
do." "Then," said I, "your horses have good feet." 




(No. 22.) 
The ground surface of a 
common shoe, with lo- 
cation of nail-holes. 



152 HIGH HEELS. 

" Yes," said he : "I soon get the worst of feet all right ; but 
it is an idea of my own." In my judgment the principal 
secret of the success of the Goodenough shoe is that the 
iron is so soft that it wears down rapidly, and brings the sole 
and frog to the ground, and to the rule of not touching the 
frog or sole when trimming the foot for the shoe. 

HIGH HEELS. 

But I would right here make an explanation : If there is 
any morbid inflammation in the cartilage of the coffin -joint 
or of the sheaths of the tendons passing down over the heel, 
especially if there is any tendency to coffin-joint lameness, 
bringing the heels to the ground will make the horse decid- 
edly lame. In this case you must raise the heel high enough 
to prevent contact with ground, and the toe should be ham- 
mered down and made rounding like the toe of a shoe well 
worn. A member of my class who had 
been in one of the car-stables in New 
York, after advising thin-heeled shoes, 
said a man came to that stable while he 
was there, and talked that system into 
the president of the company ; and he 
was employed to shoe all the horses 
on that plan. I asked him if he shod 
all alike; and he said, "Just alike." 
"(No. 23.7" "Then," said I, "you had quite a 

Bearing surface of a shoe, number that became dead lame, while 
of G the n naii hoieT" 011 the others did better." He said that 
was so. I then explained that those 
having any tendency to coffin -joint lameness got badly lame ; 
and that such, instead of a low heel, should have high heels 
and round toes to remove pressure from the frog, and aid 
the mobility of the foot. He had an idea, but no knowl- 
edge of principles back of it, and was consequently a dan- 
gerous authority to be guided by. 

CONTRACTION. 

The hoof is a shell of yielding horn ; and when it becomes 
dry and hard, grows smaller, and presses upon the structure 
of the foot within, as a boot that becomes dry and crisped 
is drawn down tightly upon the foot. The result is inflam- 




CONTRACTION. 



153 



mation and injury, that ultimately destroys the action and 
vitality of the parts. I will not stop to designate the various 
causes of contraction, more than to say that badly-fitting, 
thick-heeled shoes, that raise the sole and frog from all possi- 
ble pressure upon the ground, nailing so far back in the 
heels as to prevent spreading Of the foot as it grows, badly- 
fitting shoes, and, I will add, standing in narrow stalls, on 
dry planks, all contribute more or less directly to this cause. 
Then, too, there is a frequent contraction only of one heel, or 
of one more than the other. All pedestrians are careful, as 
a primary condition of success, that the shoes fit easily and 
perfectly to the feet. The soles are broad and long, the heels 
low and wide, the uppers soft and easy, with no pressure 
upon the toes. Even the stockings are selected with great 
care. They must be free from seams or wrinkles. The foot 
is supported as nearly natural, and kept so, as possible. This 
is what we must aim to do in shoeing the horse's foot ; and now 
we will come to the best way of doing this. The first step 
towards curing contraction is to remove the cause ; secondly, 
the use of such means as 
will bring the quarters 
back to their natural form 
and condition most nat- 
urally and easily. I will 
first give the best pallia- 
tive means, which does 
not require much care 
and skill to do. The sec- 
ond requires a nicer de- 
gree of skill, but will 
enable curing easily the 
worst cases of contraction 
of either or both heels. 
The same principle will 
enable curing with ease 
and certainty any case 
of quarter-crack. First, 
poultice the foot thor- 
oughly, until soft, and will 
cut easily ; next cut down the foot until all excessive growth 
is removed. If the sole is thick with old horn, cut it away 




(No. 24.) 
A convex shoe. The hearing surface is 
from a sixteenth to an eighth of an 
inch lower at the outer edge of the 
hearing surface where the outside of 
the heel rests. Should he fitted care- 
fully. 



154 CONVEX SHOE FOR CURING CONTRACTION. 

with a sharp English shave that is ground sharp on both 
sides ; cut down carefully between the bar and frog, espe- 
cially well back towards the point of the heel ; do not cut 
deep enough to bring blood, yet enough to let the quarter 
spread or give easily when pressed upon. 

CONVEX SHOE FOB CUBING CONTBACTION. 

Next have fitted a thin-heeled, convex shoe. (See cut.) 
Fit it carefully, so that the quarters rest nicely on the 
convex surface, without touching the sole anywhere. The 
point is here not to cut the wall down too near the surface 
of the sole. The inner edge of the shoe settles into the horn, 
and forms a shoulder that prevents the quarter giving to the 
pressure of the body, as this will do when improperly 
fitted. Keep the feet stuffed with flaxseed-meal poul- 
tice, and tie a wet cloth around the coronet when in the 
stable. Put the horse to work, keep on such shoes, carefully 
fitted, and the feet kept soft : the horse will improve very 
rapidly, and all ordinary cases of contraction will be easily 
cured. This is, however, but palliative, compared with the 
following treatment, which enables the easy and certain cure 
of all cases of contraction, and quarter-crack, or splitting 
of the quarters. 

A SHOE TEAT WILL ENABLE THE OPENING OP THE 
QUABTEBS AS DESIBED. 

Soften the foot, either by tying two or three thicknesses of 
blanket around the feet, and keeping them wet with cold 
water for twenty-four hours ; or fill two little bags with bran, 
put each foot into a bag, tie a string loosely around the top 
and leg. Dip each foot in a bucket of water for a few min- 
utes, and afterwards pour on water to keep wet, or stand the 
horse with the feet in a tub of moderately warm water until 
soft. Now cut down the feet to their natural shape. There 
is usually a large accumulation of horn at the heel : however 
small the foot may seem, cut away all the old superfluous horn, 
then cut down between the bars and frog as before described, 
until the quarters will give easily to pressure. Now accu- 
rately fit a shoe of a simple flat kind to the hoof. It must 
come out even and flush all the way round, and at the heels 
be a little wider and longer than the foot. Lay on the shoe 







A SHOE ENABLING OPENING QUARTERS AS DESIRED. 155 

as intended to be nailed, and with a pencil make a mark on 

the outside, directly over the inside of the bar, at the point 

of the heel on each side. This 

done, accurately drill or punch two 

holes about three- sixteenths of an 

inch in diameter through the heels 

where the marks were made ; and 

if you can, the holes should be on 

the bevel of the bar at this point, 

extending up and back at the point 

of the heel. By the way, particular 

care should be taken not to cut any 

thing from the side of the bars or 

inside wall of the heels. Fit two 

little pieces of good iron or steel, 

about three-fourths to seven-eighths 

of an inch long, by three-sixteenths 

thick, and about five- eighths of an 

inch wide. Cut down the end until 

it will fit the hole in the shoe, and, 

fitted properly, rivet it in thorough- 
ly. You have now two clips at the 

inside exactly where you want 
them, and in general shape, with 
a little filing when the shoe is laid 
on, to come inside each heel, and 
extend well up to the top of the 
arch connecting the frog with the 
heel. Fit these carefully until 
they will rest perfectly up against 
the point of the heel, so as to 
give an easy and perfect pressure 
with the full breadth and length 
of the iron against the horn; but 
the end must not touch the soft 
part above. Weaken the shoe on 
each side at the turn of the foot, 
until, with sufficient pressure, it 
will bend there and at no other 
place. This is done by filing a 

notch in each side, as shown in cut. Put on in place, and 

nail down firmly. (See cuts of shoes and fitting.) 



(No. 25.) 
A view of a shoe when fitted 
to nail on. It does not give 
the exact idea of the size 
and shape of the flanges as 
they should be. 




(No. 26.) 
A badly contracted foot, with a 
shoe fitted ready to be spread. 



156 A SHOE ENABLING OPENING QUARTERS AS DESIRED. 



It is seen the heels must now spread so far as the shoe 
is opened, and that you have the power to open the quarters 
as little or much as you desire, at will, with the spreaders. 
You can put the tongs between the heels, and spread them ; 
but the difficulty will be the pressure coming equally on 
both sides ; the side that is the weakest, or hied away the 
most, will do all the bending, thereby bringing pressure only 
no the quarter outside the part so bending outward. This 

will not do ; for we 
must not only be ex- 
act in fitting this form 
of shoe in the first 
place, but we must be 
equally exact in our 
ability to open either 
or both quarters as lit- 
tle or much as we de- 
sire, with certainty. 
And this little point, 
small as it may seem, 
caused me a great 
deal of trouble to de- 
vise a means to do. 
The spreaders are the 
result of the effort, the 
idea of which the 
reader can easily catch 
from the engraving, 
and make the cure of 
contraction easy and 
sure. This illustration 
does not, however, 
give the right propor- 
tions, the part to the right from the fulcrum of bearing against 
each other to the part resting against the heel appearing too 
long. With this simple means of getting a strong lever- 
power upon each heel, outward, independent of the other, 
we can open the heels with great ease, as we desire. I 
would caution you not to spread too much when the shoe is 
first put on, which you will be liable to do because you can 
do it so easily, or at any time afterwards. Measure accu- 




A SHOE ENABLING OPENING QUARTERS AS DESIRED. 157 



rately the distance between the heels of the shoe. The 
quarter that is contracted most first open, but not over an 
eighth of an inch ; then open the other about half that 
space. You cannot with safety spread the heels more than 
three-sixteenths of an inch at a time, and either quarter not 
over an eighth of an inch. If you spread the quarters the 
least too much you may cause violent inflammation, which 
must be arrested promptly. About an hour after the quar- 
ters are spread, examine the horse carefully ; and if the foot 
is sore, with a hammer knock back the side bent too much, 
to remove the pressure. Next, put the foot in cold water, 
or tie a wet rag around it ; the 
inflammation will subside very 
quickly. Every few days spread a 
little more, not over an eighth of an 
inch at a time, until the quarters 
are spread as far as you desire, 
and the foot is brought back to 
its natural shape. A shoe of the 
form described for the cure of con- 
traction should not be thick nor 
heavy, just what is necessary for 
strength to support the strain upon 
it. The heels should not be over a 
quarter of an inch thick, to allow 
the frog having contact with the 
ground. If in the winter, and corks 
are necessary, fit the shoe first, 
corks, &c, as you desire ; then drill 
the holes in place up near the 

corks. It is very easily done, and can be fitted to a hair, 
and no one can detect any unusual form of shoe, when on, 
unless attention is called to it. The principle of weakening 
the shoe on each side well forward in the toe, and turning 
the inside of the heels up in the form of clips, to rest against 
the inside of the bars at the heel, is well known. It is next 
to impossible to fit this form of the shoe to the foot. If in 
the least too large or small, it would be all out of shape. 
I tried it over and over again, and gave up in despair. With 
a tongs or screw, the pressure being equal on both quarters, 
there was usually a too violent strain of the quarter from the 




(No. 28.) 

The foot with the heels opened 

by the expansion shoe. 



158 



QUARTER-CRACK. 



toe back, while perhaps the opposite was not disturbed. It 
was an idea ; but so crude and difficult to put in practice, that 
with all the care and patience I could use, I could not make 
it work as I desired, and it is almost sure to make the horse 
violently lame. The improvements I have made are, first, 
in weakening at the turn of the hoof, between the toe and 
heel, adjusting the clip with exactness after the shoe had 
been fitted, which enables, too, a full, broad, naturally fitting 
clip, just where it is desired to be ; and lastly, a thin shoe, 
that will give the frog some pressure upon the ground ; and 
finally, the form of the spreaders, which enables opening 
either side independent of the other, with the greatest exact- 
ness and certainty of result, gives us just what we want to 
cure contraction and quarter-cracks, or splitting of the quar- 
ters. When it is seen that many fine horses have such severe 
contraction of the feet as to virtually ruin them, and that 
there was no practical way known of giving easy or sure 
relief, we can realize the value of this simple contrivance for 
opening the quarters as we now can do. 

QUARTER-CRACK. - HOW TO CUKE ANY CASE. 

Blind Billy burst his quarter severely. Previously, by 
opening the quarter, making a crease across at the edge of 
the hair, and keeping the foot soft, and 
stimulating its growth, I had no trouble 
in growing down the hoof sound. But in 
this case the ground was so hard, rough, 
and frosty, in connection with the great 
extent of the split, in spite of the utmost 
precaution and care, the horn would split 
back as fast as it grew down, until it was 
split almost to the ground. I knew the 
hoof split because too small for the parts 
within; that this pressure caused the 
hoof to burst ; and so long as this con- 
tinued, cure was practically impossible. 
Cutting down between the bar and frog, 
and weakening the quarter, so that it 
would spread, would not do it. I was 
driven to the resources of my ingenuity to 
overcome the difficulty. The usual remedy for the cure of 




(No. 29.) 
Cut of shoe for quarter- 
crack. 



QUARTER-CRACK. 159 

quarter-crack is to put on a bar-shoe, make a crease with 
a hot iron across at the edge of the hair, and keep the foot 
soft and grow it down. All this I had tried, and knew its 
value exactly. Opening the quarter, so as to let the hoof 
give to the pressure upon the edge of the horn was before 
entirely effective; but in this case, with the utmost care, 
it would not do. I was at my wit's end, when one night 
it occurred to me how to contrive the shoe, so as to 
spread the quarter out, and remove all possible pressure 
upon it. Next day I fitted one, as explained for contraction, 
fitting a clip or spur to the side of the quarter-crack. I nailed 
on the shoe firmly, and on the opposite side, well back to the 
heel, and spread the quarter out all I dared. I repeated 
this spreading two or three times; and, though the horse 
was driven and used as usual, and is the hardest horse on 
his feet of any I ever saw, — the shell being very thin, and 
he being blind, striking the ground very hard, — the foot 
grew down sound. Repeated trials with the same treatment 
since have proved to me that the remedy is complete. No 
matter how hard the horse is driven or used, the hoof will 
grow down without any inclination to split the new growth 
of horn, until the hoof is grown down sound. I cut away 
the edges of the horn where it is split, so that gravel or dirt 
cannot imbed between, and then spread the quarter out- 
ward, sometimes covering the crack with a little resin and 
tallow. I was so successful by this contrivance for opening 
and holding the quarter spread for the cure of quarter-crack, 
that I was led to try it upon one of my horses that had the 
heels drawn in badly. I fixed both sides of the shoe to be 
spread, and put on carefully. It worked perfectly. I was 
able to open the quarters as I pleased, and, in two months, 
opened the quarters fully an inch, making a complete change 
in the horse's action. Of course I could have opened the 
heels all I pleased at once ; but this would not do, as violent 
inflammation would follow opening either quarter in the least 
too much at once. You must spread a little more every day 
or two, until the point desired is accomplished. 

The primary cause of quarter-crack is, that the hoof is sim- 
ply too small for the internal structure of the foot. The quar- 
ters always burst during dry, hot weather, or dry, freezing 
weather, when the ground is hard, causing severe strain and 



160 QUARTER-CRACK. 

concussion. The quarter, if drawn in a little, is then liable 
to split, and always on the inner side, because the shell is 
there thinnest and weakest. Simply open the heel on the 
side split between the bar and frog, cutting well down, but not 
to bring blood. Put on the form of shoe described, and spread 
the quarter enough to remove all possible pressure upon it. 
Crease with a hot iron across at the edge of the hair, and 
let the horse go to his work, observing to keep a good strong 
pressure upon the quarter by repeated spreading of the shoe, 
until the quarter is natural. To show the value and impor- 
tance of this means of curing contraction and quarter- crack, 
I would refer to the fact that no work on shoeing or the care 
of the foot published gives any practical means of cure for 
contraction and quarter- crack. I read a report recently 
of a series of lectures delivered by Prof. Cressy of Amherst 
College, before the medical students and farmers in Burling- 
ton, Vt. The high standing of this gentleman, as a teacher 
of veterinary practice and a lecturer, makes him authority 01 
the highest order. He described the nature and cause ot 
contraction and quarter in well-chosen language. It is 
caused, he says, by want of moisture and pressure upon the 
frog. For the cure of contraction, he advised stuffing the 
feet with oil, meal, and pine-tar, moistening them with cold 
water ; and, to prevent evaporation from the foot, to cover 
the hoof with an ointment made of equal parts of sweet oil, 
pine-tar, and mutton-tallow, and a little beeswax. For quar- 
ter-crack he gave no treatment. If the object is to remove 
pressure from the vascular structure of the foot, simple 
moisture and preventing evaporation is but the merest pal- 
liative treatment. It is not treatment by which the horse that 
is crippled can, in any practical sense, be cured ; for, once 
the heels are turned in, they will, like the nail of the toe, keep 
inclined more and more to grow in unless mechanically con- 
trolled. Certainly this is no practical treatment for quarter- 
crack. The hoof can be preserved easily enough, as it grows 
down, from splitting, by keeping the animal in a stall ; but 
the hoof grows down as it was before. The cause remains 
of the heel being drawn in, making the hoof too small ; so 
that, as soon as the horse is put to work, and the hoof be- 
comes dry, it is liable to burst at any time. 

No amount of stuffing or moisture will remove pressure 



CORNS. 161 

from the coronet and quarter after the feet are once sensibly 
contracted, and no care in fitting a shoe to make the bearing 
of the heels level, or bring pressure upon the frog by the use 
of a bar-shoe, will in a practical sense give relief. Mr. Bon- 
ner would, I think, smile at such treatment. I am aware a 
great deal of mischief has been done by parties, who, without 
any scientific knowledge, cut or saw recklessly into the heel 
between the bar and frog, and spread the quarters violently, 
thereby causing violent inflammation, an injury that would 
cause the animal great tortures and endanger tetanus. Where 
there is no regard for the use of the horse, the horn may be 
cut away to almost any extreme ; and by allowing pressure 
of the frog and sole upon the soft ground the heels must 
grow wide with the new accumulation of horn, and a cure will 
be almost certain. But if we can do all this easily and safely, 
and preserve the hoof as well as retain the use of the horn, 
as we now can do, it is much better and safer treatment; 
but what is surprising to the writer is, that so high an author- 
ity as the gentleman referred to would not say something 
about the principles of giving direct relief to the pressure 
upon the internal structure of the foot now shown so neces- 
sary and valuable to prevent and cure contraction by me- 
chanically removing the cause, as shown by the success of 
Mr. Bonner especially, whose success and skill in this field 
of study are beyond question. I really desire to benefit the 
farmers and horse-owners who honor me with their attention ; 
and I will be glad to make these difficulties plainer to them 
by such explanations as I am able to give, personally, with 
aid of apparatus. 

CORNS 

Appear at the angle of the inner heel : they are usually 
caused by the shoe being worn so long that it is drawn for- 
ward under the quarter, and presses upon the soft horn of 
the heel. This undue pressure bruises and breaks the blood- 
vessels, leaving a red spot. This bruise is the same as any 
other simple bruise of the sole. More or less inflammation 
may result, and, if allowed to go on, may cause suppuration. 
The first and most important step towards a cure is to 
remove pressure from the part. The shoe must not be 
allowed to press upon it. If we raise the shoe from the 



162 



INTERFERING. 



heel, or cut away the heel near the corn, to remove the pres- 
sure of the shoe from it, the in- 
creased pressure upon the horn near 
there breaks it down, and permits 




4 A 

(No. 30.) 
Bar-shoe to enable remov- 
ing pressure from the 
corn. 




(No. 31.) 
Testing for corn. 





the shoe, as before, to rest upon the sensitive part, and the 
difficulty is made thereby worse. The only true way now 
to prevent pressure upon the part, is to use a bar-shoe, 
which will enable entire relief 
to the quarter by throwing 
pressure upon the frog, and 
thereby holding the shoe 
away from the heel. 

If there is much inflam- 
mation, poultice. If an or- 
dinary red spot or corn, cut 
it out pretty well. Put on a 
little pitch and tallow hot, ^ 

or a little butter of anti- 
mony. Spread a little tow over it to keep out gravel and 
dirt, and put on a bar-shoe, being careful there is no pres- 
sure upon the part. 

ZKTTERFEKrKTG. 

Some horses travel so close that the least neglect of 
having the shoe well under the quarter, and the part 
nicely dressed down, would cause a bruising and cutting 
of the opposite ankle. The shoe should be so formed 
and fitted as to come well under the hoof. To do this 
well, that side of the shoe should be made rather straight, 



(no. 33.) 
Situation and 
appearance 
of 
corn. 



WEAK HEELS. 



1G3 




(No. 34.) 
A shoe for interfering. 



with the web narrow, and the nail-holes well forward in 
the toe ; at all events, there must be no nails driven into 
that part of the hoof that 
strikes, as the clinches will 
be likely to cut. If the 
toe cork is set well round, 
on the inside of the toe, 
and the foot is so pared, 
or the shoe is so formed 
that the bearing of the in- 
side of the foot is raised somewhat, there will be a tendency 
in the ankle to be thrown out when borne upon. But the 
great object is to have the shoe fitted and filed smoothly, 
and set well under the part hitting, so that after the hoof 
is rasped off all it is prudent to do, and rounded down 
carefully, the shoe sets far enough under not to endanger 
its cutting, yet supports 
the hoof, and gives a nat- 
ural bearing to the foot. 
The chief danger will be 
that some portion of this 
part of the shoe will be 
made to extend beyond 
the hoof, and the shoe be 
fitted and put on so rough- 
ly that it can scarcely be 
said to be fitted any 
smoother or better than 
is usually done, without regard to such a purpose. It is 
always best to keep the bearing natural by trimming the 
foot level, and making the shoe of an even thickness, but 
set it under and file smoothly. If this will not do, raise 
the inside a little. Driving young horses to sulky will 
often cause interfering ; getting a horse in good condition 
will often overcome the difficulty. If the ankles are cut 
or sore, they should be protected with pads until well. If 
the owner values the animal highly, he should give such 
shoeing his personal attention. 

"WEAK HEELS. 
Cutting down too close, and fitting the shoes roughly, so 
that the horn wears and breaks down the heels, will cause 





(No. 35.) 
Interfering pad. 



(No. 36.) 
A leather boot to 
protect the ankle. 



164 WEAK HEELS. 

them to be low and sensitive. Such feet should be simply- 
levelled down with the rasp carefully, and the shoe fitted 
to touch every part of the bearing surface at the heels. 

In some cases where there is but little horn at the heel 
to support the foot, the whole bottom of the foot 
seems to be flat and weak. This class of foot is usually 
so weak, and grows horn so slowly, that it is the cause of 
great annoyance. Two points are to be accomplished : 
First, growing all the horn we can, the want of which is 
the real cause of difficulty. Second, supporting the foot 
to prevent bruising or injury. It is clear, if the horn is 
not thick or strong enough, we must support it all we can ; 
and, if there is not sufficient growth of horn, we must 
stimulate the growth of hoof all it is possible to do, but 
we must get a tough, healthy condition of hoof to do any 
lasting good. The real cause of the weakness is usually 
owing to the horse being over-heated a little, leaving a 
weak condition of the circulation. The hoof grows thin 
and brittle, and the horn gives out as soon as subjected 
to the strain of hard work or badly fitting shoes. Have 
made a nicely fitting, rather thin, flat bar-shoe, the bar 
all the way round wide ; the part across under the frog 
to extend well forward so as to give a full, even support to 
the frog, almost covering it. (If the heels are spreading, 
which some weak feet of this kind do, nail well back 
in the quarter, or turn up little clips at each quarter to 
press gradually, but firmly, upon them.) The shoe should 
be fitted very carefully ; yet no horn is to be cut away 
more than to level the wall. Next fit a piece of thin, hard 
leather, and put between the shoe and foot, and nail the 
shoe on carefully, If the whole bottom of the foot could 
be supported perfectly with rubber, it would be just the 
thing; but I never saw any thing of the kind, that, in a 
practical sense, could be depended upon. In the first 
place, nailing the shoe on tight enough to hold destroys 
its elasticity; second, it wears out too quickly. A cast 
should be taken of the bottom of the foot, so that it 
would be a perfect support ; then a flat shoe nailed care- 
fully over it, or have made an ordinary shoe with good 
wide bar, but not over thick; have next fitted to the 
inside, resting upon the inner edges of the shoe at the 



LINIMENT FOR HEELS. 165 

heel and toe, and fastened to it firmly, a piece of thin 
steel or piece of saw-plate, the whole to form a flat, even 
surface. Fit this to the foot as nicely as you can, and nail 
it on firmly. Now take some oakum saturated with oil of 
tar, reduced with a little oil ; the oil of tar itself being 
too stimulating. Stuff the oakum between the shoe and 
sole until there is an equal firm pressure upon the whole 
sole and frog. Remember, however, it is unnatural to 
have the frog and sole covered : thrush may result, but we 
choose the least evil for the time until we can grow horn. 
The best thing I have found to grow a good, healthy con- 
dition of horn, and keep the hoof soft and elastic, is the 
following — 

LINIMENT FOR SOKE, CONTRACTED, AND WEAK 
HEELS. 

Venice turpentine, half pint ; aqua ammonia, two ounces ; 
salts of nitre, one ounce ; benzoin, one ounce ; alcohol, 
three ounces : apply to the edge of the hair, and all over 
the foot, two or three times a week. This will grow the 
hoof rapidly, and make good, healthy horn. A mild 
blister to the heel and coronet, repeating as you would an 
ordinary ointment for a month or two, will grow horn 
rapidly by exciting circulation to the coronary ring from 
which the horn is grown ; but it should be followed up 
with the above liniment. 

BREAKING DOWN OP THE SOLE. 

If a horse is foundered, and inflammation is allowed to 
go on, the connection of the hoof and coffin-bone is liable 
to give way, and break the sole down. It is evident, if the 
sole is weak, and unable to support the weight of the body, 
there is but one alternative : it must be supported, and we 
must now study how to do this best. Have made a good 
strong, flat shoe, with bar across the centre of the sole 
well forward towards the toe. To do this, weld in a piece 
of flat iron, which should come a little lower than the sur- 
face of the shoe, according to the foot. 

Fit on the shoe carefully, and nail on firmly ; now fit a piece 
of leather under the sole ; over this piece of iron, across 
the sole, pour in a solution of tar and tallow to cover the 



166 PRICKING OR DRIVING A NAIL INTO THE FOOT. 

sole ; put in the leather over, and now comes the important 
point. Drive wedges, nicely fitted, between the iron and 
leather, all you dare, to cause a strong but even pressure 
upon the sole under the pedal or coffin-bone. What next? 
Keep down inflammation by poulticing ; but keep an even, 
firm pressure upon the sole until inflammation subsides, and 
the sole remains in its natural position. 

Of course success will depend largely upon the care and 
skill with which this is done. If there is not too much dis- 
organization, you can make a reasonably good foot. See 
that no matter was retained under the sole or hoof. Cut 
away the horn, and make an outlet if necessary, and dress 
as any simple incised wound. 

PRICKING OR DRIVING A NAIL INTO THE FOOT. 

Be very cautious about letting the smith drive the nails 
too deep into the foot. Sometimes the shoe is too short ; 
and to remedy the matter it is set back so far under the toe 
as to endanger driving the nails into the sensitive part of 
the foot. You should not on any account allow such a shoe 
put on, and the hoof cut down to it ; but if you see the horse 
flinch sharply when the nail is driven, and it is at all deep, 
have it pulled out, and leave that hole without a nail. If 
after a few hours, or next day after being shod, the horse 
points, or is lame, there is cause for alarm. Put your hand 
gently upon the hoof, and see if you can detect any unusual 
heat ; next, get a hammer or stone, and tap around over the 
nails carefully until there is a flinch, and you detect soreness 
and heat plainly ; have the shoe at once removed, pulling 
out the nails carefully, cut down to where the nail strikes 
the quick, enough to make room for any matter that may 
have formed to escape ; then poultice the foot with flax- 
seed meal until the inflammation is reduced, when a little 
tar, resin, or tallow should be put on the opening, filled up 
with a little tow, to prevent gravel or dirt getting in, and put 
the shoe on again. 

SHOEING SORE AND LAME HORSES. 

If the horse is simply stiff and sore, we will suppose the 
result of chronic founder, make a simple flat shoe. Raise 
the heels with heel corks, and round the toe something like 



SHOEING SORE AND LAME HORSES. 



167 




(No. 37.) 
A shoe with a high heel and 
the toe rounding, without 
a toe cork, for a sore, 
stiffened horse, or one 
that has any soreness or 
inflammation in the coffin- 
joint. The heel must be 
raised from the ground 
and the toe rounded to 
aid mobility. 



a sled-runner or worn off like an old shoe. (See cut.) You 
thereby aid mobility by helping the foot to turn easily on 
the ground, and will enable travel- 
ling much easier. If in winter, and 
you must have corks forward, have 
two set in at the back edge of the 
toe on each side, which will allow 
the same freedom of rolling to the 
foot. If the horse is OFF AND ON 
LAME, and seems to go worse when 
he loses his shoe, and is off and on 
lame, there is more or less inflam- 
mation in the heel or in the coffin- 
joint. In this case put on a high- 
heeled shoe with no toe cork, and 
in addition, round the toe. If there 
is a thickening or inflammation of 
the tendons on the back of the leg 
below the knee, run your fingers 

down the tendons ; and if there is found slight heat and en- 
largement, or in the ankle, put on a high-heeled shoe. If a 
strain of the ankle, bandage lightly, and keep wet with a hot 
liniment of salt and vinegar; and, if you must drive the 
horse, bandage tightly while moving, keeping the leg wet, 
but loosen as soon as the stable is reached, to permit more 
freedom of circulation. If a good, 
healthy foot and no lameness, put 
on a simple flat shoe with the heel 
quite thin, but the bar rather wide : 
let the frog have some contact with 
the ground. If the horse is lame 
in the forefoot, — sometimes almost 
well, at other times quite lame, — 
poultice the foot, fit the shoe care- 
fully, raise the heel with corks round 
the toe, nail on as lightly as you can, 
no heavy hammering, keep wet, and 
there will be marked improvement 
(see coffin-joint lameness), and 
most cases will get well ; gradually 
lower the heel as you find the foot will bear; remember, 




(No. 38.) 
A clip or thin heeled shoe, 
to give the sole and frog 
contact with the ground. 
For contraction. 



168 SHOEING COLTS. 

when you raise the heel, and throw increased strain upon 
the tendons on the forward side of the leg, you do it to 
remove pressure and strain from the tendons, and soreness at 
the heel or under the frog. When the foot is healthy, keep 
the bearing natural, — a simple level bearing, preserving the 
health, activity, and strength of the sole and frog by occa- 
sional possible contact with the ground. If the foot is con- 
tracting, by all means throw the heel to the ground, but keep 
the foot soft as you can, and use a convex shoe. 

SHOEING COLTS. 

You should not shoe colts until compelled to by the feet 
wearing down too much. About the first thing the farmer 
thinks necessary to do, when he wishes to break a colt, is to 
have big shoes put on. Remember, at best, shoes are unnat- 
ural, and a cause of injury to the feet ; and the longer the 
feet will wear without shoes, the better. When you must put 
on shoes, let them be simple flat ones, or better, little more 
than tips, or thin-heeled shoes, that will permit about the same 
pressure, or nearly so, of the frog upon the ground, there was 
before being shod, and nail in the toe, and never to but one 
quarter. The common custom is to put on big, strong shoes, 
with high corks, and nail them on firmly. The frog is, in con- 
sequence, raised unnaturally high from the ground. It be- 
comes dry and hard : as the foot grows, the quarters are held 
firmly to the shoe, and cannot spread, or act naturally. There 
is an unnatural restraint upon the quarters, that is increased 
as the foot grows. The feet soon become hard and con- 
tracted, and, before being fully grown, are weakened and 
suffering from some one of the common causes of malformation 
and injury that ruins the horse. Do not meddle with your 
colt's feet by putting shoes on them, so long as the feet 
remain strong and good, no matter how much you drive and 
use them. trim colts* feet. 

You should look to the colt's feet, and have them trimmed 
down, if the hoof is growing long and out of shape. They 
are liable to split up ; and, if not, the foot is likely to grow 
out of shape. Have them cut down level, and round the 
toe a little. 

WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT PERMIT. 

No rasping of the outside of the hoof, no large, stiff nails 



DRIVING THE NAILS. 169 

driven into a hoof that is light and thin, or into any ordinary 
foot, as they split and shell the hoof, and spoil it. 

DRIVING THE NAILS. 

Let the nails be driven well forward in the toe, or outside 
the toe. See that the quarters are not bound so firmly to the 
shoe that they are not free to spread freely as the foot grows ; 
for as the foot grows, it is just so far losing its original pro- 
portion with the shoe, because getting constantly wider and 
longer than it was when the shoe was put on. 

Do not allow, on any condition, thick, heavy shoes on a 
light, thin-shelled foot, with square heels. 

RASPING THE HOOF. 

Do not allow any rasping, more than a little around the 
edge of the toe, but any splinters cut out. The less filing 
and rasping of the surface of the hoof, the better. Do not 
allow the feet to become dry and hard. Do not allow a 
favorite, valuable horse to stand in a narrow stall he cannot 
move in. Give room, and plenty of it. 

It is but proper the writer should acknowledge his indebt- 
edness to Mr. Robert Bonner of " The New York Ledger," 
and Dr. Bryden of Boston, for many valuable ideas on shoe- 
ing. Dr. Bryden is specially skilful in the treatment of the 
feet, and I am only doing him simple justice in recommend- 
ing him to the confidence of those who are able to secure 
his services. Mr. Bonner is the most thorough student of 
the foot, and the principles of its care in shoeing, the writer 
has ever met. A good many in the country think the editor 
of the famous "Ledger," and equally famous stable of trot- 
ters, is admitted skilful because wealthy ; while the fact is, he 
is undoubtedly the deepest and best thinker on the science 
of shoeing in this or any other country. No other man has 
studied the causes and principles of curing contraction so 
thoroughly, or the weight and form of construction of shoes 
to harmonize with action with such nicety. Observing with 
the greatest care the speed and action of each horse, with 
different forms of shoe, he knows how to remedy every de- 
fect with precision ; and I am safe in saying that he has no 
peer as a keen student of the points and conditions of shoe- 
ing, and keeping the feet strong and healthy. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



I aim here to give you, in the plainest and fewest words, an 
explanation of the causes and symptoms of diseases and the 
best treatment for cure. All the best chance prescriptions 
I have obtained during my experience, I also give here. 
To obtain reliable treatment for diseases, I employed one of 
the ablest and most successful veterinary surgeons in this 
country, at a large expense and nearly two years loss of time, 
to give me a private course of lectures on the treatment of 
diseases and lameness in horses, and thus give me a practical 
knowledge of all his best treatments for cure. 

There are but three diseases to which horses are subject 
that are both common and dangerous ; namely, Colic, In- 
flammation of the Lungs, and Founder. These three dis- 
eases constitute about nine-tenths of the causes of loss to the 
farmers. These diseases will be found carefully explained ; 
and the plainest, simplest, and most reliable treatment for 
each, which I know to have been used with most success, 
and have used myself, is given for cure. Do not be con- 
fused and dependent upon some neighbor who presumes 
himself competent because he has a pet receipt or two. 
I give you treatment you can rely upon, if you follow it 
rigidly. It is next important to know what to do for 
cough, sore throat, or distemper, cuts, sprains, bruises, 
&c. Many a fine horse is ruined, and exposed to severe pain 
and injury for weeks and months, for want of a little common- 
sense treatment at the start. A cut on the leg, a simple cork 
off the hoof, neglected, results in a morbid action that leaves 
an incurable blemish and injury, which, treated at first prop- 
erly, would not amount to any thing. Here you will get 
treatment to be depended upon for all such chance injuries, 
and all the common diseases, including spavins, ringbones, 
170 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 171 

taking off bunches, and all those common difficulties to 
which horses are subject, which makes this little book invalu- 
able to horse-owners. The chapter on shoeing should be 
read with much care. I have tried to make the ideas plain 
and comprehensive for cure ; and the advice, if followed, will 
save many a valuable horse from lameness and injury 
from shoeing. The importance of keeping the feet strong 
and healthy, the annoyance, damage, and loss so common 
from ignorance in shoeing, induce me to make a special 
effort to make what is written on the subject as clear and full 
in detail as I could. In the name of common-sense, as a 
matter of personal interest to you, see at least that your 
horses are not ruined, by preventing the possible roughness 
and ignorance of the shoer from a repetition of his too com- 
mon faults. 

Believe me in this, at least : I have, at great expense and 
trouble, done the very best I could to give you such instruc- 
tion and treatment as I was able to do, which time and expe- 
rience will, I am led to hope, make you appreciate more 
highly. 

DR. WILLIAM SOMERVILLE'S CERTIFICATE. 

" This is to certify that D. Magner, Esq., served under me 
nearly two years, during 1868 and 1869, as an apprentice, to 
learn and be instructed in the veterinary profession. I con- 
sider him well qualified to treat successfully all diseases in 
horses, and able to practise as a skilful and competent veteri- 
nary surgeon. 

"WM. SOMERVILLE, 

" Veterinary Surgeon. 
a A member of two Veterinary Colleges, 
" and thirty-six years' practice, 
"Buffalo Horse Infirmary, 127 Erie St., 
" August 1st, 1869." 

Respectfully, 

D. MAGNER. 

I would urge the necessity, at least of ordinary prudence, 
in preventing colds and sickness by guarding against un- 
necessary exposure, or mercilessly driving until in a profuse 
perspiration, and then leaving the horse in some cold, bleak 
place, without more, perhaps, than a poor blanket, and that 



172 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

thrown on carelessly, while the driver is perhaps enjoying 
himself with his friends in some drinking saloon, toasting 
his shins while the poor animal stands shivering at the door. 
The effect of such bad treatment will not then have time to 
develope itself, but will be seen in a few hours, or at farthest 
on the following day. This is the common cause of acute 
laminitis (founder) and of pleuro-pneumonia (pleurisy). 
The three principal points in the health of a horse are feed- 
ing, air and exercise. In the first place, irregularity of 
feeding will certainly produce disease. (See article on 
feeding.) Ventilation — the stable should be neither too 
hot nor too cold. The animal will show the effect in a few 
days by coughing or having slight irritation of the mucous 
membrane of the throat. 

A horse can take cold as easily by going out of a cold 
air into a hot stable, as he can by going from a hot stable 
into cold air, and vice versa. It is the sudden change of 
temperature which produces the change on the mucous coat 
of the larynx and throat. 

The clothing of the horse in the stable should be neither 
too hot nor cold. But if kept too warm, he will be more 
likely to take cold when he goes out to exercise on a cold 
or chilly day. The stable should be well ventilated with 
pure air at all times, and all poisonous air and gases, par- 
ticularly the ammonia, which is formed from the urine, 
should be allowed free egress from the stable, as the animal 
cannot be expected to keep in good health while compelled 
to inhale such malaria. 

Let me tell you, one of the great points in keeping horses 
in good health and condition, is regular feeding and good 
care, being careful, after a sharp, hard drive, especially if 
there has been exposure to wet and cold, to blanket warmly 
— anticipate and look for a chill, or being off of food. If 
so, a little fever medicine and a warm bran mash should be 
given at once, and a serious attack of pneumonia may be 
thus averted. Men who talk and slash horses around reck- 
lessly, I have a low opinion of as horsemen. To keep 
horses doing well, even though worked hard, requires at- 
tention to little things. -If the road is heavy or up-hill, 
and the horse shows fatigue or is warming up excessively, 
hold up and shove, if necessary, on good road and down 
grade, aiding and nursing along by watering often but not 
much at a time. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 173 

A very little driving without regard to this prudence will 
soon get even a good, hardy horse off his food, if not cause 
sickness, and then Providence, or something else, is the 
supposed cause. Use all the care and prudence you can in 
guarding against and preventing sickness ; it is your safest 
and best rule. I give the very best treatment in the follow- 
ing pages you can use with most success. The medicine is 
easily obtained and administered. Indeed there are single 
remedies in this book I would not be without for one thou- 
sand dollars. 

SPASMODIC OOLIC. 

Colic is one of the most common as well as most danger- 
ous diseases to which the horse is subject. There are two 
forms of this disease, namely, Spasmodic and Flatulent 
Colic. 

The first is wholly of a spasmodic nature, and if not re- 
lieved, will, in severe cases, run into inflammation of the 
bowels, causing speedy death. 

The second, while exhibiting the same general symptoms, 
shows marked enlargement of the belly, from generation of 
gas, which, if not checked and neutralized, results fatally 
by rupturing the diaphragm, causing suffocation and death. 

The common causes of colic are, application of cold 
water to the body, drinking cold water when in a heated 
condition, costiveness, unwholesome food, etc. 

Premonitory symptoms, are sudden. The animal paws 
violently, showing evidences of great distress, shifting his 
position almost constantly, and manifesting a desire to lie 
down. In a few minutes these symptoms disappear, and 
the horse is easy.* But the same uneasiness soon returns, 
increasing in severity until 'the animal cannot be kept upon 
his feet; the pulse is full, scarcely altered from its normal 
condition ; a cold sweat breaks out over the body ; temper- 
ature of legs and ears natural. As the disease advances the 



* Note.— He may also act as if he wanted to make water, which he cannot do, 
there being a spas'modie contraction of the urethra. Hence the desire to give 
diuretic medicine. Straining in this way is usually prompted by a desire to re- 
lieve the muscles of the belly. No diuretic medicine ehould be given as the horse 
cannot pass urine until the attack of colic ceases, or it is taken from hiiu with a 
catheter. 

It is very seldom, even necessary to use a catheter. In fact, it is not necessary 
to pay any attention to this symptom. As soon as relieved of the colic, the hora 
will pass water freely. 



174 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



symptoms become 
more severe, the ani- 
mal at times throwing 
himself down with 
force, regardless of 
consequences, looks 
anxiously at the sides, 
sometimes snapping 
with the teeth at the 
sides, looking anxious- 
ly at the belly, and 
striking upward with 
the hind feet, showing 

First Stage of Spasmodic Colic. almogt ^ game gymp _ 

toms as in inflammation of the bowels. There are, 
however, strongly marked characteristics peculiar to each. 
The better to point them out, I will tabulate them, by which 
the difference and peculiarities of each can be easily deter- 
mined. 




COLIC. 

Sudden in its attacks. 

Pulse, in the early stage of the 
disease, not much quickened or 
altered in its character. 

Legs and ears of a natural tem- 
perature. 

Rubbing the belly gives relief. 

Relief obtained from motion. 
Intervals of rest. 
Strength scarcely affected. 



INFLAMMATION OF BOWELS. 

Gradual in its approach, with 
previous indications of fever. 

Pulse much quickened, small, 
and often scarcely to be felt. 

Legs and ears cold. 

Belly very tender and painful 
to the touch. 

Motion increases pain. 

Constant pain. 

Rapid and great weakness. 



This disease being wholly of a spasmodic nature, it mus 
be counteracted by antispasmodic treatment; and laudanum 
being the most powerful and reliable antispasmodic it is 
here indicated. 

Treatment. — Give from two to three ounces of laudanum 
and a pint of raw linseed oil. If not better in an hour, 
give two ounces of laudanum and the same quantity of oil 

If there is not relief in a reasonable time after the second 
dose is given, take from six to twelve quarts of blood from 
the neck vein, according to the size of the horse and chi- 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



175 



severity of the attack. Always in bleeding make the ori- 
fice large, and extract the blood as quickly as possible. As 




Second Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 



Third Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 



bleeding is the most powerful and reliable means of relax- 
ing the system, it can be always relied upon in the cure of 
this form of colic. There will be no relapse after bleeding. 

Special Notice. — To guard against confusion, and 
aid the reader all I can, I would say here that in my prac- 
tice I use the remedy given for Flatulent Colic on next 
page ; namely, peppermint, ether, and laudanum. It is 
peculiarly valuable to the non-professional man, because 
it will cure either or both, if given promptly. It is the 
only preparation experience proves is specific for Tympan- 
itis, or Flatulent Colic, and is almost equally good for 
Spasmodic Colic. Hence its peculiar value to the farmer 
who cannot tell one kind of colic from the other, and, in 
the excitement of a horse taken suddenly sick, would be 
less likely to determine correctly. So I would advise, if 
you have a favorite horse that is subject to colic, to keep 
at least two doses of this medicine in your stable, ready 
for the emergency when it arises. In all cases of Spas- 
modic Colic, bleeding largely will give relief and prevent 
a relapse. But to bleed for Flatulent Colic would cause 
almost certain death. The exact symptoms of each, 
causes and treatment, are given under each head. Prof, 
Somerville said in his lecture on colic, that he had killed 
hundreds of horses before he learned to cure this form of 
colic with certainty, and the remedy referred to here was 
his favorite prescription. I saw in infirmary practice while 
studying, and during my experience since, a great many 
cases treated with this remedy with perfect success, and 



176 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



it will be found invaluable. If the horse is not relieved 
in thirty to forty minutes, I repeat the dose, always with 
success. This form of colic is often fatal in two to three 
hours. I always keep for immediate use a dose or two of 
this medicine. 

FLATULENT COLIC, (TYMPANITES.) 




Symptoms same as spasmodic colic, with the difference 
of there being so great an accumulation of gas in the 
stomach and intestines that the belly is swelled. This dis- 
ease will often prove fatal in from one to three hours. It is 
generally very sudden 
in its attack, often oc- 
curring while the ani- 
mal is at work, particu- 
larly during warm 
weather or changeable 
weather from cold to 
heat; but is generally 
caused by indigestion, 
producing gases in the 
bowels or stomach.* 

If to terminate fatally 
it will become weaker and slower until it is almost imper- 
ceptible. If the animal is allowed to fall down suddenly 
while pressure of the gas upon the walls of the stomach is 
very great, there is probability of rupturing of the dia- 
phragm, which would cause almost instant death from 
suffocation. 

Treatment. — In the first place do not commit the error of 
bleeding for this form of colic, as it would be almost sure 
death. Second, keep up evaporation of the body as much 
as possible by sweating with blankets. What would be still 
better, if available, would be a hot bath. If you have any 
of the remedy comprising ether, ammonia, asafcetida, etc.,' 



First Stage of Flatulent Colic. 



*Note. — There are two locations for this disease, but in either it requires the 
same treatment, as it is generally produced by the same causes — the stomach, colon 
and ccecum. When in the stomach it will be distinguished by eructations or belch- 
ings of gas through the esophagus or gullet. If from the ccecum or colon, the 
horse is violently swollen along the belly, flanks and sides generally. Pulse is 
rarely disturbed until the disease advances, when it will become quickened, run- 
ning to its height quickly, and receding as rapidly, if fatal. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 177 

given for spasmodic colic, give it at once as directed. If 
this is not available, give a drench of the following: 

Peppermint, 2 oz.; sulph. ether, 2 oz.; laudanum, 1 oz.; 
soft water, 1 pint. 

Be particular to keep the composition in motion while 
administering; to be repeated in half or three-quarters of 
an hour if not better. There is great danger of this dis- 
ease ending fatally by rupturing of the diaphragm, through 
the great distention of the intestines, and contrary to the 
regular rule of scientific veterinary surgeons' practice. To 
prevent these violent falls and rolling in the stall, to keep 
the animal on his feet as much as possible, and to avoid all 
irritation or action of the bowels, it would be advised that 
he be walked as slowly as possible, led by the head to prevent 
falling or rolling, until such time as the treatment has had 
the desired effect.* 

PLEURISY— INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS- 
CONGESTION OF THE LUNGS. 

All these diseases are only extremes or modifications of 
one disease. I will include their treatment under one head, 
first describing the symptoms peculiar to each. 

\All diseases of the chest take the scientific name " Pneu- 
monia" and are called Pleurisy, or P leuro- Pneumonia ; 
Typhoid inflammation of the Lungs — Typhoid Pfieumonia ; 
Congestion of the Lungs, or Congestive Pneujnonia; and 
lastly, a disease known as Dropsy of the Chest — {Hydrotho- 
rax) — which last is generally the result of the former disease. 
H Tien the word Congestion is spoken of, it means in common 
phrase, that one or the other {right or left lobe) of the lungs, 
are so engorged with blood forced into them that they are 
either unable to receive or discharge any blood, become hard, 
and almost black in color. WJien in this stage the disease 
is called Congestion, and often terminates at this period in 
death.~] 



* Note. — The ether disturbs the breathing, making the horse apparently dis- 
tressed, breathes laboriously, which will pass off again in a few hours. I could 
give more of a variety 01 treatment for this form of colic, but all things consid- 
ered, I think this is the safest and best, if not the most reliable for use by those 
not skilled in practice. 

It is well to bear in mind also, that if the horse is small and the case not severe, 
leas is to be given, while if very large and the attack severe, even more may b€ 
given. 



178 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

The most common causes of lung fever, as it is termed, 
are, exposing the animal while warm to a cold wind, or 
becoming chilled from driving fast against a cold wind, 
washing with cold water immediately after exercise, changes 
irom heat to cold, or from cold to heat, removing from a 
warm to a cold, or from a cold to a warm stable, or cold 
applied to the surface of a heated animal, by which the 
blood is driven from the skin and extremities to the internal 
organs, or any cause by which the circulation is obstructed 
and deranged, may excite any of these forms of inflamma- 
tion and congestion. 

When the pleuro — (a watery or fine membrane covering 
the external surface of the lungs, and lining membrane of 
the cavity of the chest) — is inflamed, the disease is called 
pleurisy. 

When the inflammation is located in the lungs, it is called 
pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs. When the ac- 
tion of the capillaries is greatly lessened from their being 
weakened, or the blood being so forced through them that 
they are obstructed and clogged, the difficulty is called con- 
gestion of the lungs. 

There cannot be inflammation of a part without there 
being more or less inflammation of the other parts surround- 
ing, and there cannot be inflammation without congestion, 
as there is always more or less obstruction of the circulation 
where there is inflammation. 

PLEURISY 

may be sudden or gradual in its attack, the horse showing 
indisposition sometimes for days previous. The horse will 
be dull and heavy in action for a day or two, unwilling to 
lie down, pulse not much disturbed, or there is a chill, or 
slavering fit, which lasts from one to three hours, when 
fever sets in; breathing at flanks a little accelerated, coun- 
tenance is anxious, the head is sometimes turned towards 
the side, does not lie down. As the disease advances the 
symptoms become more marked. The ears and legs become 
cold; the pulse, from being a little accelerated, grows 
quicker, hard and full; the head is hung forward, stands 
up persistently, breathing hurried, the membrane of the 
nose and eyes red. Turning the horse round, or hitting 
against the chest, back of the shoulder, will cause a kind 
of grunt. 



DISEASES AND THE.R TREATMENT. 



179 




The Commencement of Inflammation of the Lungs. 



CONGESTION OF THE LUNGS 

is first noticeable by the horse having a severe chill or 
shivering fit. He refuses his food, hangs his head between 

the fore legs or up- 
on the manger, will 
not move or lie 
down, breathing 
quick and short, 
panting like. The 
nostrils are expand- 
ed, the head thrown 
forward; the coun- 
tenance expresses 
pain and great pros- 
tration. (See cut.) 
The pulse is some- 
times full and quick, but generally quick and weak, scarcely 
perceptible; the membrane of the nose and eyes bright 
red, tending to purple; ears and legs very cold; with a 
cold clammy sweat at the extremities. 

In this case the inability of the horse to take air into the 
lungs causes great and rapid prostration, (and will often, 
from extreme pain, lie down and get up, resembling colic, 
but the coldness of extremities, prostration and condition 
of pulse will, if carefully examined, enable an understand- 
ing of the real cause,) 
a choking noise some- 
times coming from the 
throat. In some cases 
a little blood may be 
thrown from one or 
both nostrils. Extreme 
prostration and labo- 
rious breathing and 
bleeding from the nos- 
trils shows severe con- 
gestion of the lungs. 




Second staere of Inflammation of the I ungs. 



TYPHOID PNEUMONIA. 



First symptoms. — The horse is off his feed, disinclination 
to move, appetite gone, pulse weak and low — will some- 




180 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

times eat a little, will 
not lie down, not 
much cough, rarely 
any discoloration of 
the membrane of the 
nose or eyes — urine 
scanty and high col- 
ored — faeces hard and 
coated. After two or 
three days the mem 
brane of the nose and 

Third stage^HnTammlln^h^ngs. e 7 eS ^ little discolored 

or red, pulse quicker, 
65 or 70, breathes quicker. About the fourth or fifth day 
there is usually a discharge from the nostrils, of a blackish 
brandy color cerumen. 

Treatment. — Experience proves that sedative treatment 
is the most effective for cure of inflammation of the lungs, 
which is greatly assisted by counter irritation. The seda- 
tives proved to be most effective and reliable are aconite, 
veratrum and belladonna. Veratrum exhibits great power 
in lowering the action of the heart, while aconite is not 
only a powerful sedative, but seems to act as a stimulant to 
the capillaries, thereby causing profuse perspiration. 

There is so little judgment or attention given to condi- 
tion in giving medicine and its effects upon the system, 
that I shall be compelled to limit myself to the most effect- 
ive simple treatment. There are but few who seem to know 
anything about the pulse ; this of course should be under- 
stood, directions in relation to which, find in anothei 
chapter. 

Take of tincture (radi) aconite 1 oz.; veratrum ^ oz.; 
soft water 4 oz. Dose from 15 to 30 drops on the tongue, 
every thirty or forty minutes, more or less, and at longer or 
shorter intervals, according to the severity of the case. In 
ordinary cases the veratrum may be omitted. If the case is 
found to be obstinate the veratrum may be added or given 
separately in about the same proportion. 

FOR AN ATTACK OF PLEURISY. 

Blanket warmly, and put in a comfortable stall, where 
there will be pure air, and give of the above fever medicine 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 181 

from 15 to 30 drops every twenty or thirty minutes, on the 
tongue. If the case is severe apply some strong stimulant 
to the legs and on each side of the body and breast, such 
as mustard made into a paste and rubbed in thoroughly, or 
a liniment composed of aqua ammonia, reduced one-half 
with water ; or any strong stimulating liniment should be 
applied. The legs may also be rubbed and bandaged 
warmly but not tightly, or some stimulating preparation 
may be used before bandaging.* 

INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS OR CONGESTION. 

Treat as for Pleurisy. — If there is much congestion, it 
is necessary to give prompt relief, which can be done best 
by taking four to six quarts of blood quickly from the neck 
vein, stimulate the sides and legs, and give fever medicine 
as for pleurisy. I wish now to call your attention to what 
you must not do. First, you must not give physic or oil 
for any of the forms of inflammation of the lungs. Cathar- 
tic medicine in any form is poisonous, such as aloes, oils, or 
tartar emetic. There is so much nausea attending the oper- 
ation of these medicines and debility from their effect. 
There being also such powerful sympathy between the bow- 
els and the lungs, that they hasten the cause of the 
inflammation of the lungs, often producing death in a few 
hours after administering them. Second, do not bleed for 
pleurisy, as so doing would cause debility of the capilla- 
ries of the part that would induce hydrathorax and death. 
In a severe attack of congestion, bleeding cannot only be 
resorted to with safety, but is the quickest and surest treat- 
ment to give relief, but must not be carried too far, merely 
to assist the lungs to throw off the load of blood forced 
upon them, and to give the medicine prescribed a chance 
to operate. 

TYPHOID PNEUMONIA TREATMENT. 

As the word typhoid means low, it is necessary to watch 
it carefully in that stage, which will last as described in the 
symptoms, the first four or five days, when in many 



*Note. — If you give a few doses of aconite as above prepared, about tbe time 
lever sets in, or before, tbe borse will be relieved next day A. few swallows of wa- 
ter should be given occasionally. Improvement will be denoted by tbe pulss 
becoming full and regular, and tbe expression and actions being lively. 



182 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

cases the pulse may run down to thirty. Stimulants 
should be used at this stage, such as a little brandy and 
water or whisky and water. A gill or two of liquor to be 
given as a drench, or what is much better, is, take carbonate 
of ammonia, from one to two drachms ; powdered ginger 
root, one to two drachms, made into a ball with honey or 
molasses and given twice a day. It should be remembered 
that this treatment alone is intended only for the low stage 
of the disease. When the pulse seems to rise to fifty or sixty 
about the fifth or sixth day, the patient should then be 
treated as for pleurisy, with fever medicine. Under the 
influence of the latter treatment, the pulse will recede and 
resume its natural number of beats (forty). In this form 
of disease it is extremely prostrated at first, the whole sys- 
tem being inactive. The pulse may run up in time to 
seventy, or even eighty.* 

The reader may take up veterinary works, and those too 
by good authority, in which he is told to bleed for pleurisy 
and lung fever; bleed until the pulse falters. I have only 
to say that I give you what I know from experience to be 
safe, reliable treatment, and you are safe in following im- 
plicity the treatment given. Indeed, for all ordinary cases, 
a few doses of aconite, to which may be added, if desired, 
a little belladonna and veratrum in the proportion given, 
including same proportion of belladonna there is of vera- 
trum, given promptly, will in almost every instance give 
relief quickly. 

Dr. Somerville of Buffalo, puts up a preparation for the 
cure of lung fever, colds and chills, which is specific. It 
will cure every case of chills or fever. A bottle of which 
should be kept in every stable. If available at your drug- 
gist's, get a bottle by all means. It is just the thing, and 
cheap at any price. 

See also introductory chapter to treatment of diseases 
before treatment for colic. 



* Note. — In all cases in feeding while the animal is laboring under any of the 
forms of pneumonia, the animal should be kept moderately warm, have plenty of 
pure air, cold water in small quantities, a hand full of wet hay, a carrot or two, 
an apple or a potato or more ; anything of an alterative form. Be careful not to 
exercise too soon. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



183 



CATARRH, OR COLD. 




Effect of a Cold. 



Cold is of common occurrence, and 

may lead to very serious consequences if 

neglected. If looked to in time, with a 

little rest and nursing, the system will soon 

resume its normal condition. 

The usual symptoms are, a little increase 

of pulse, a slight discharge from the nose 

and eyes, the hair roughed, not much 

appetite, and some cough, which is some- 
times severe. 

Blanket warmly, give aconite as for 

fever. Nurse by giving bran mashes, etc. 
If the case is serious it may run into general 
inflammation of the air passages, as bronchitis 
or laryngitis. Would aim to keep up the 
strength, giving fever medicine, alternating 
with belladonna. Put on a bag, made of 
coarse, loose cloth, into which put some 
bran on which throw an ounce or two of 
turpentine. Hang the bag on the head, same 
as in cut, being careful not to have it so tight 
around the nose as to heat or scald and be 
oppressive. A few repetitions of this will 
cause the nose to run freely. Rest and care 
will usually do the rest. 

If there is obstinate inflammation of the 
throat and air passages, any good liniment 




Steaming the Nose 
of a Horse having 
Cold. 




184 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



may be applied around the chest and throat and bandaged, 
as shown in the cut. The object is to stimulate the surface, 
and this would be an easy, practical way of doing it. 

STRANGLES OR DISTEMPER. 




Severe attack of Distemper. 



This is another form of sore-throat, familiar to every one. 
Its design seems to be to throw some poisonous matter frcrr 
the system, and the object should be to keep the strength 
of the animal up and hasten suppuration. 

The horse is out of sorts; the 
neck becomes sore and stiff; an 
enlargement appears which is first 
hard and tender; there is some 
discharge from the nose. The case 
usually grows worse, if very severe, 
often threatening to cause suffoca- 
tion ; horse unable to eat or drink 
but little, and strength is lost 
rapidly. 

Use freely a poultice made of wheat bran and warm 
vinegar, changing as often as the 
poultice becomes dry, using the 
eight-tailed bandage, until the 
enlargement becomes soft and can 
be opened, when relief will be 
prompt. Or the following treat- 
ment may be adopted, which is 
similar, and if the alteration is 
not good, is preferable: Take 
spirits of turpentine, two parts; 
spirits of camphor, one part; 

laudanum, one part. Put this on the neck with a brush, if 
convenient, or any way to apply it 
without exciting pain, three or four 
times a day until soreness is caused. 
After each application have ready 
three or four pieces of flannel, 

Which should be a good thick Eight-Tailed Bandage. 

article; put these over the parts 

and bind on with the eight-tailed bandage. When the 

tumor points, open it, and be sure that the matter has a 




Applying an Eight-Tailed Bandage 
in Distemper. 




DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 185 

thorough outlet. Sometimes the inflammation is so deep as 
to cause serious soreness and swelling of the throat. In this 
case the horse must be nursed carefully by feeding with 




Opening the Abscess in Distemper. 

warm gruel; the drink should be warm; grass or anything 
that will tempt the appetite should be given. Simpler 
treatment would be rubbing on the enlargement an ordinary 
fly-blister, to bring the enlargement to a head. Physic must 
not be given. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BOWELS. 

This disease is generally caused by constipation of the 
bowels, hard driving, over-purging or looseness of bowels, 
or drinking cold water when warm. Constipation is, how- 
ever, the principal cause of the disease, and when this is 
the case, the first and most important condition of relief is 
to get an action of the bowels. 

Symptoms. — For the first 
few hours the horse is uneasy, 
paws, looks around at the side, 
the pulse is slightly accelerated 
and wiry. As the disease ad- 
vances the intermissions be- 
tween the attack become less, 
pulse quicker, running fr )m 
Symptoms of intest^aai and Abdomi- seventy to eighty beats in a 
SuS'SIS'B^r 1 " Inflam " minute, >u some instances even 




186 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREA'IMENT. 



faster; lies down and gets up, shows much pain, no swelling 
of sides. Now begins to exhibit fever, bowels constipated, 
urine highly colored and scanty. 

Remedy. — Give a quart of raw linseed oil. 

Note. — If constipation is very great, add from four to six 
drops of croton oil. 

If scours or over-purging, give an ounce and a half of the 
tincture of opium with six ounces of water. But in order 
to suppress the inflammation it is necessary to bleed imme- 
diately from the neck vein from six to ten quarts of blood, 
according to the strength and size of the animal. In 
extreme cases bleeding may be repeated to the extent of 
four to six quarts in three or four hours. If much pain 
exists in constipation, give from one to three ounces 
tincture asafcetida. Feed lightly for a week at least, giving 
gruel, roots, grass and bran mashes, and keep quiet. No 
exercise for several days if there is danger of a relapse. 
This a dangerous disease and requires prompt treatment. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE KIDNEYS. 



Inflammation of the kidneys is generally caused by hard 
work, by slipping, throwing the hind parts so suddenly under 
the belly as to produce undue tension of the lumbar verte- 
brae, or from sudden colds by being exposed to rain and 
cold, the eating of musty hay or oats, or unhealthy food of 
any kind. Too powerful or too 
often repeated diuretics produce in- 
flammation of the kidneys, or a 
degree of irritation and weakness of 
them that disposes to inflammation, 
from causes that would otherwise 
have no injurious effect. 

Symptoms. — Less or more fever 
of the system generally, and unwil- 
lingness to move, particularly the 
hind legs, dung hard and coated, 
very sensitive to pressure on the 
spine. The horse looks anxiously 
round at his flanks, stands with his 
hind l^gs wide apart, straddles as 
he walks, shows pain in turning ; the 




Appearance of a Horse Suffer 
ing from Diseases of the 
Urinary Organs. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



187 




Test for Inflammation of 
the Kidneys. 



urine is voided in small quantities, and is usually high 
colored, sometimes bloody; the attempt to urinate becomes 
more frequent, and the quantity voided smaller, until the 
animal strains violently, without being able to pass any or 
but very little urine. The pulse is 
quick and hard, full in the., early 
stage of the disease, but rapidly be- 
coming small, though not losing its 
character of hardness. Introduce 
the hand into the rectum. If the 
bladder is found full and hard under 
the rectum, there is inflammation of 
the neck of the bladder. If the 
bladder is empty, yet on the portion 
of the intestimes immediately over 
it there is more than natural heat 
and tenderness, there is inflammation 
of the body of the bladder. If the 
bladder is empty and there is no 
increased tenderness and heat, there 
is inflammation of the kidneys. 

Treatment. — If the pulse is high, about sixty, take five or 
six quarts of blood and give a fever ball ; to be repeated in 
three hours if not better. Fever ball : 4 drams Barbadoes 
aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2 drams ginger, calomel about 
the size of a bean, molasses sufficient to make into a ball. 
Counter irritation must next be excited over the seat of the 
disease. The loins should be fomented with hot water or 
covered with mustard poultice, or, better, heat a peck of 
salt in an oven, place it in a bag, and put it over the part 
affected. If the case is severe and protracted, a sharp blister 
may be used. No diuretics are to be given, as they would 
simply aggravate, and make the disease worse. After the 
bowels are open, give aconite, and treat as for fever. After 
recovery the horse should be kept very quiet for a month, 
and if in season, turned out to grass. If in winter, feed 
with light mashy diet; exercise lightly by leading, if the 
animal be valuable and it is desired to aid recovery by 
extra care. 



188 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BLADDEB. 

Symptoms almost the same as those of inflammation of the 
kidneys. Frequent voiding of urine in small quantities, 
quick pulse, looks frequently at flanks, paws violently, ten- 
der when pressed upon under the flanks. 

Here the principal object is to lower inflammation and 
relax the muscular contraction of the neck of the bladder. 
Bleed largely, almost to fainting; give physic as for inflam- 
mation of the kidneys, or a quart of linseed oil. A dram 
of powdered opium, made into a ball, or given in drink, 
every two or three hours, and blister over the loins. Give 
aconite, as for inflammation of the kidneys.* 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BBAIN, OB STAGGERS, 

Is first noticeable by dullness or sleepiness of the eyes, an 
unwillingness to move, general heaviness of the system. 
This disease is frequently called megrims, fits and mad stag- 
gers; but in part only one disease, according to the extent 
of such disease as the animal may be affected with. 

The cause of staggers, is, an undue flow of blood to the 
brain, which rarely or never occurs in any animals except 
those in a plethoric (fat) condition. 

Some writers and practitioners assert that there is a 
disease known as stomach staggers. I have never seen a 
case where it was necessary to treat the stomach, but always 
direct attention to the brain, as being the seat of this 
disease, which may be properly called head staggers. (In 
his lecture on this difficulty, Dr. Somerville was emphatic 
in this conclusion.) 

In cases of megrims or fits it is merely a lesser attack, or 
pressure of the blood-vessels on the brain, and mad staggers 
is a greater pressure of the same vessels on the same part. 
The brain is divided into two parts, namely, cerebrum and 
cerebellum, which occupy a horny box in the head. The 
blood-vessels passing over the brain and coming in contact 
with the skull, become distended by an increased quantity 
of blood, and produce the feeling, which is thus exhibited. 



* If possible call a vetmimry surgeon who will introduce a catheter which 
will relieve the auimal immediately. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 189 

There is but one cure for this disease, and that is, remove 
the cause. Bleed largely from the neck — ten, twelve or 
fourteen quarts, or until the symptoms of fainting. After 
the horse is convalescent a sharp dose of physic should be 
given to regulate the bowels. I would advise owners of such 
horses to dispose of them. Once taken with the disease, 
they are subject to a repetition of the attack when the blood- 
vessels become filled again. 

Note. — Small doses of aconite (of the quantity for fever) 
may be given three or four times a day as a good preventive. 
Turning horses to pasture that may be liable to this disease 
will prove both injurious and dangerous. 

FOUNDER, (LAMINITIS.) 

There are two stages of this disease, acute and chronic. 
The first produces a high state of excitement and inflamma- 
tion of the sensible laminae of the foot. The second, a 
morbid or insensible feeling of the parts generally. The 
first is invariably cured if properly treated. The second is 
not curable, but may be palliated to a limited extent. 
Acute founder is easily detected. The animal invariably 
extends the fore feet as far forward as he can, and brings 
the hind ones in the same position under him. There is so 
much pain in the fore feet that he endeavors to throw his 
weight on the hind ones. (See cut.) The common causes 
of founder are exposing the animal when warm to sudden 
changes, usually produced by the following means, namely: 
Standing in cold air when warm, after being driven, 
driving through a river while warm, or giving cold water to 
drink while warm, washing the feet when warm and neg- 
lecting to dry them, &c. It is generally supposed that 
feeding a horse while warm will produce founder. This is 
an error, unless it is such food as will chill the system, 
which may be done by giving a large quantity of cold wet 
mixed feed, whereby the circulation would be checked, as 
before explained. 

Founder is simply inflammation in the feet, whatever 
general disturbance of the system is caused by the pain and 
soreness in them, and the correct principle of cure is to 
lower and remove this inflammation before change of struc« 
ture or sloughing can take place. 



190 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



Treatment. — As soon as the disease has developed itself, 
bleed from the neck, according to the size and condition of 
the animal — from six to twelve quarts. Then give a sharp 
cathartic ball (7 drams aloes, 4 drams bar soap, 1 dram gin- 
ger). Make into a ball and give immediately. After the 




The Horse as he Appears when Suffering from Inflammation 
in the Feet, or Founder. 



fore shoes have been removed, poultice thoroughly with 
bran wet with cold water. This poultice may, while on the 
feet, be kept wet by dipping the poulticed foot into a pail 
of cold water, or pouring some on. This poulticing should 
be kept up from four to five days, when the shoes may be 
tacked on, and the animal exercised a little. Cloths wet 
with cold water should be tied around the coronet and the 
soles stuffed for a week or two. The horse should have 
tepid water to drink and warm bran mashes during the 
operation of the medicine. If the disease should be stub- 
born, which is rarely the case, a second ball may be given 
after an interval of five days. 

Nothing can be done for a sub-acute founder, or case 
badly treated. If the sole is broken down do not pare the 
sole. Fit the shoe so as not to press on the sole. Stuff 
the whole bottom with oakum and tar, and apply leather 
over. Put on the shoe carefully. Cure is impossible. If 
warm fomentations are used, instead of cold, a relaxation 
of the sensible laminae on the wall of the foot is liable to 
take place. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. ±Q\ 

The great trouble with most farmers and horsemen is, 
they do not know either how to bleed or give a ball of 
physic medicine. 

In that case you must do all you can by poulticing the 
feet and the use of sedatives. Take a large tub or part of 
a barrel ; put in some blue clay, upon which pour hot water. 
(The mixture should come half way to the knees when the 
horse stands in it.) See that it is not hot enough to scald. 
Stand the horse in for several hours, after which poulticing 
as before, at the same time give aconite as for fever. You 
can also give a pint of raw linseed oil. It would be also 
conducive to success to bleed from the toes, which can be 
easily done by cutting through the sole at the toe. 

If, however, you can treat as first advised, your success 
will be certain, as this treatment I know will cure any case 
of acute founder, or laminitis. 

HBA.VES, OK BROKEN" WIND. 

Heaves produces increased action of the flanks. The 
inspiration is natural, but the expiration requires two mo- 
tions to expel the air. There is always a short cough, or 
grunt, and at the same time expels wind while coughing. 
Heaves are never found in the racing stable, where horses 
are properly fed. They are always found among cart or 
team horses, where the owners suppose they must feed a 
large quantity of coarse food or hay. 

The seat of the disease is located in the air cells of the 
lungs, causing enlargement and sometimes a rupture of these 
cells. A result of bronchitis, or inflammation of the small 
air passages of the lungs, is the lodgment of mucous fluid in 
those passages of the lungs, causing inability to breathe, 
(wheeze,) and leads to this result. But in all cases of 
heaves we find the horse to be a greedy eater, — stuffs the 
stomach with coarse food, causing the lungs to be greatly 
restricted in their action, causing an enlargement of or rup- 
turing of the air cells. 

An important and necessary auxiliary to the successful 
treatment of heaves is restricting the quantity of coarse 
food or hay, and increasing that of condensed, nourishing 
food, thereby giving the lungs increased room to act. 
Horses fed on chopped stuff, corn fodder, etc., improve, 
and get worse by being fed on coarse food or hay. 



192 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

Heaves disappear by feeding prairie hay or grass, because 
it is so coarse the horse cannot gorge the stomach with it. 
Hence there is improvement by feeding corn stalks or fod- 
der, as they contain more saccharine matter and do not 
engorge the stomach. I have given the tincture of rosin 
weed, which is claimed to be the curative principle of 
prairie hay, without satisfactory results, and can produce 
equally satisfactory results by other treatment that is claimed 
for that of feeding prairie hay. 

First give one of the following balls : Ginger, powdered, 
y 2 oz.; capsicum, j^ oz. Form a ball. This ball to be 
given three nights in succession ; then omit two or three 
nights, and one or two balls may be given again in succes- 
sion. The horse should have regular exercise, be watered 
often, (small quantities at a time,) and have straw instead 
of hay to eat, (corn fodder would be much better.) Under 
this treatment heaves will disappear. 

FAVORITE REMEDIES FOR HEAVES. 

i. Spanish brown, 2 oz.; tartar emetic, 2 oz.; resin, 4 oz., 
ginger, 2 oz. Mix and give two teaspoonfuls twice a day 
in the feed. 

2. Vegetable tar, in mass, y 2 oz.; gum camphor, ^ oz.; 
tartar emetic, 1 dram. Form into a ball, one of which is 
to be given once a day. 

3. Take indigo, 1 oz.; saltpeter, 1 oz.; rain water, 1 gal- 
lon ; mix and give a pint twice a day in the feed. 

I could include a great many pretended "sure cures " for 
heaves. I have used in my practice almost everything for 
this purpose, comprising sulphuric acid and corrosive sub- 
limate, etc., as experiments, and find them comparatively 
or wholly worthless. If the horse shows heaves after a 
severe cold or inflammation of the lungs, there will be 
wheezing from a filling of the air passages with mucus. 
Hence gentle exercise, stimulating medicine to the air pas- 
sages and lungs, and condensing the food, will give relief, 
since the lungs are thereby stimulated and freed from 
mucus, as well as giving freedom to act, and there is, in 
consequence, relief. 

You will find the above treatment to work splendidly in 
most cases. They will give relief in all cases with proper 
attention to feeding, and will in many cases possibly make 
a cure. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 193 



TO CURE ROARING, OR ■WHISTLING. 

The following treatment for the cure of roaring, or whistling, as it is 
termed, has been used by Mr. E. D. Conklin, and others, in Cleveland, 
Ohio, and they claim the m; st satisfactory results. Mr. Conklin, who is 
a large owner of horses, and perfectly reliable, states that he cured one 
very bad case; could not pull a load two rods up-hill without blowing 
and choking down ; was completely cured in six weeks. Has tried it 
in a number of cases, and always with satisfactory results. The treat- 
ment was introduced by Mr. Johnson, of Cleveland, who claims he can 
cure any case. As there is no really satisfactory treatment for this dif- 
ficulty in regular practice that I know of, I give this remedy and state 
my authority. It can be tried with safety. 

Treatment.^-Yxovo. 10 to 20 drops of sponga fosta on the 
tongue in the morning. At night the same proportion of 
Fowler's Solution in the same manner, to be repeated 
alternately for from four to six weeks, giving more or less 
and for a longer or shorter time, according to the severity 
of the case, until a cure is effected. 



TETANUS, OR LOCKED JAW 

This disease is wholly of a nervous character. A descrip- 
tion of the symptoms is scarcely necessary, but in the first 
stage there is a disinclination to move; then the tail be- 
comes erect and quivers, the ears set back, and the 
conjunctiva is thrown over the pupil of the eye, and the 
head is elevated. 

As the disease advances, the muscles all over the neck 
and body become stiff and rigid, and the legs have the ap- 
pearance of a four-footed stool. The animal has little or 
no power to move. 

For the first few days the teeth remain apart, but as the 
disease advances, the muscles of the jaw become so con- 
tracted as to bring them close together. Hence the name 
of locked jaw. 

The causes of this disease are numerous, but it is gener- 
ally produced from a wounded nerve or bunch of nerves, 
pricking the tail, and very often from docking, punctured 
wounds in the feet from glass or nails, and sometimes from 
severe exposure to cold, and I have known one case to occur 
from fright. As to the pulse, it is almost- normal for the 
first few days. As the disease advances the pulse quickens, 



194 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

and the animal is compelled to stand on his legs unta 
death, if it terminates fatally. If favorably, a relaxation 
of the muscles begins from the fifth to the seventh day. 
This disease is more common in the extreme South than in 
the North. 

Treatment. — First, as the disease is of a nervous charac- 
ter, quietness is of the greatest importance. The animal 
should be put into an isolated place or box, by himself, and 
the cause of the disease found. If from docking, the next 
joint should be taken off the tail. If from a wound in the 
foot, the wound should be opened up and made new, and 
an application of digestive ointment inserted, so as to pro- 
duce a healthy flow of matter. When the irritation has 
ceased from the wound, a pail of gruel should be placed 
before him, in which is mixed half an ounce of tartar 
emetic. This medicine should be given daily, and the spine 
rubbed well with a strong liniment, composed of one part 
of aqua ammonia and two parts of sweet oil. This embro- 
cation should be employed daily until the back becomes 
sore. 

Tetanus never arises from a wound until about the period 
that it may be considered healed. Bleeding about four 
quarts daily for four or five days has cured several bad 
cases. Think if the bowels can be regulated, quietness has 
more to do in producing a cure than all other remedies. 

POLL EVIL AND FISTULA OF THE WITHERS. 

These difficulties are of the same character, though in 
different locations, and the treatment of one will be suffi- 
cient for both. Poll evil is sometimes caused by striking 
the poll against a beam or floor, being struck or otherwise 
injured, or it may be the result of constitutional predisposi- 
tion. 

When the inflammation and enlargement are first discov- 
ered, you may be able to disperse it by giving a dose of 
physic and applying cooling applications to the part. 

If the inflammation does not abate, clip the hair and rub 
on some blistering ointment. When the swelling enlarges, 
open and allow the pus' to escape; cut down to the bottom, 
making a good large orifice. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 195 

In treating all ulcers, there is one point that must be kept 
in mind, and that is to make an opening at the bottom if 
you can, to let the matter run out, as matter always bur- 
rows to the bottom. This should be done by running a 
seaton through, bringing it out a little lower than the bot- 
tom of the wound, or what is termed a dependent opening. 
Wash the sore out clean. It is afterwards to be washed 
clearly with any of the healing preparations for ulcers, given 
in another page. 

If pipes are formed requiring caustic medicine, you can 
use either chloride of zinc, corrosive sublimate, or any 
strong escorotic to destroy such growth, after which treat as 
before. These are very serious difficulties to treat, requir- 
ing proper dressing daily. 

Fistula of withers to be treated in the same manner. The 
principle of treating these difficulties is really the same as 
that of any ordinary deep seated ulcer, more special direc- 
tions for the treatment of which will be found under that 
head. 

SWEENY. 

Sweeny is really a fictitious disease, discarded by all relia- 
ble practitioners. They claim, and how justly I am not 
prepared to say, sweeny is the effect of diseases of the feet, 
such as corns, navicular diseases, ossification of the lateral 
cartilage, contraction, etc., producing atrophy of the mus- 
cles of the shoulder, and their treatment would be to 
remove the cause, and the effect would cease. If you wish 
to pursue a local treatment of sweeny or filling up of the 
shoulder, you can do it by the application of most any 
stimulating treatment. One of the simplest and best, which 
will work in every case, and which most horsemen will 
regard as of more value than the price of this book, is the 
application of soft soap. Add a little salt to soft soap and 
rub on the part thoroughly four or five times in the course 
of a week. Four applications will fill up the depression of 
the worst case. The regular treatment would be seaton ing 
and blistering, but this will do all that is required so far as 
local treatment. 

In addition, by all means, if any difficulty is discovered 
in the foot, treat it also, as explained in another chapter. 



196 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



SPAVIN AND EINGBONE. 





There are two kinds of bone spavin, namely : Jack and 
occult, or consolidated joint. The first is located at the 
upper portion of the metatarsal bone at its juncture with 
the cuboid bones. The second is usually located higher up 
and more on the inside of the astragalus bone at its junc- 
tion with the cuboid bones. 

Spavins of either of the above classes have the same ori- 
gin and same causes, namely, inflammation of the cartilage 
of the joint in the first instance, and extending to ulcera- 
tion of the bone, consequently bony matter is thrown out, 
uniting more or less of the bone of the hock and excess of 
matter and ulceration of the bones from the enlargent. 

The causes of spavin are numer- 
ous, but principally of one class, such 
as sprains, hard work, blows, and, 
in fact, any cause exciting inflamma- 
tion of this part. But a common 
cause and a great fault lies in the 
breeders of horses, as very often the 
colt is bred from spavined sire or 
dam, or both, and the colt is certain 
to inherit the same predisposition. 
The symptoms at the commencement are treacherous. 
Very often horses are treated for hip lameness before any 
enlargement makes its appearance. The horse, at first, is 
very lame while laboring under acute inflamma- 
tion of the hock joint. He will not wear out or 
the lameness as he does in the more advanced 
stage of the disease. The tumor generally 
makes its appearance from the fifth to the 
eighth week. Sometimes, however, the lame- 
ness is very gradual — scarcely perceptible at 
first — getting worse until there is marked lame- 
ness at starting, which will soon wear off as the 
horse warms up. 

The method of curing is varied, as there are hundreds oj 
different remedies and applications. Some men go so far 
as to pretend they can remove spavins. To a skillful practi- 
tioner this is absurd. It will be seen that if such quacks can 
remove the external tumor, they cannot separate the bones 



Showing the Changes of Struc- 
ture Caused. 




Bone Spavir 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



197 




Natural Action. 



Effect of bad Spavin 
— Leg not brought 
Forward. 



which are united, and 
horses may be spavined 
without any visible en- 
largement. 

I can simplify all this 
to gentlemen interes- 
ted, by illustrating with 
my specimens, the lo- 
cation, nature, changes 
of structure, &c, in 
spavin, a large collec- 
tion of which I carry 
for the purpose. Sub- 
limates, muriatic, sul- 
phuric, and nitric acids form the basis of the different oint- 
ments that are applied to remove this formidable disease. 
They always make a bad sore, and blemish the animal for 
life. 

The only reasonable treatment for bone spavin is counter 
irritation and rest. If there is heat during the first few 
days, apply cooling applications, such as an ounce of sugar 
of lead to half a pail of ice water. Keep the leg wet for 
about two weeks, when it may pass off. A dose of physic 
should be given. If this stage has passed, repeated blister- 
ing with a preparation of iodine or cantharides will be 
necessary ; but much better would be the actual cautery in 
an operator's hands. Clip the hair closely over a large 
surface four or five inches above and below the enlarge- 
ment, and then out to the middle of the back and fore- 
parts of the leg. t Any of the strong blisters recommended 
for spavins, for which formulas arc given below, are to be 
used. If a blister, rub it in well with the hand for ten 
minutes or more. In two days put on some grease. When 
the inflammation goes down, wash with warm water and 
castile soap, and when dry put on more blister, and so re- 
peat, % keeping up just as much irritation as you can without 
destroying the hair. In the meantime, the horse must be 
kept in a comfortable stall, for one of the conditions oi cure 
is rest. Keep up the inflammation in this way for four or 
five weeks, after which give a run to grass. It is sometimes 
necessary to blistei lightly, if the lameness does not disap- 
pear, in six or eigl t weeks, which may be repeated a few 




198 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

times, with iodine ointment in the proportion of cne part 
of iodine to four of lard. 

Work should be light, if any, within 
three months. This treatment will usually 
cure without leaving a blemish. 

Treat ringbones on the same principle. 
Trim off the hair and blister in the same 
manner, observing the same condition of 
rest. As regards taking off the enlarge- 
ment, this treatment is as effectual towards 
that end as can be used. 

Several of the very best recipes for the 
cure of spavins and ringbones will be 
found below. 

Bear in mind, you must always clip the 
hair off of the part to be blistered, and that the medicine 
must be rubbed in well with the hand for ten minutes. 

VERY STRONG BLISTER FOR SPAVINS, RINGBONES, CURBS, ETC. 

Finely powdered cantharides, i oz.; powdered euphor- 
bium, 2 drams; lard i oz.; tar, 2 oz. 

A VERY ACTIVE BLISTER FOR SPAVIN, RINGBONE, ETC. 

Two drams corrosive sublimate, 1 oz. lard, y 2 oz. tar, 2 
drams cantharides. Rub and mix well together. 

A GOOD BLISTER FOR SPAVIN, RINGBONE, ETC. 

Biniodide of mercury, }4 dram; cantharides, 1 dram; 
lard, 1 oz. 

A fine blister for any purpose requiring counter irritation 
and absorption, will take off curbs, splints, &c. 

POWERFUL ABSORBING BLISTER FOR SPAVIN AND RINGBONE. 

Equal parts of beniodide of mercury and cantharides, 
three parts of tar and lard each. Rub in well with the 
hand for three mornings, and use lard after to soften «md 
take off the scab, when it may be repeated if necessary. 

SWEATING LINIMENT FOR WINDGALLS, ETC. 

Strong mercurial ointment, 2 oz.; camphor, j4 oz.; oil 
of rosemary, 2 drams ; oil of turpentine, 1 oz. Mix. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 199 

VERY STRONG SWEATING BLISTER, FOR WINDGALLS, CURBS, 
SPLINTS, ETC. 

Biniodide of mercury, ^ to i dram; powdered arnica 
leaves, i dram ; soap liniment, 2 oz. Mix. 

A FINE ABSORBENT FOR TAKING DOWN ENLARGEMENTS 
OF ANY KIND. 

One ounce beniodide of mercury ; from 1 to 3 ounces of 
lard, according to the strength desired. 

The following remedy for the cure of spavin and ring- 
bone is regarded as one of the best used. It is sold in the 
Mohawk Valley, (where I obtained the prescription,) for 
$5.00 a box, and Fifty Dollars has been paid for this re- 
ceipt. It is, I think, the best of this class of prescriptions 
published. 

FOR SPAVIN AND RINGBONE. 

Five ounce euphorbium, 2 oz. Spanish flies (fine), 1 oz. 
iodine, dissolved with alcohol, y 2 oz. red precipitate, 1 oz. 
corrosive sublimate, ^ oz. quicksilver, 6 oz. hog's lard, 
6 oz. white turpentine, % lb. verdigris. Melt the lard and 
turpentine together, then while hot add all together. Mix 
well; when cold it is fit for use. Rub it in thoroughly on 
the spavin every day for three days ; then wash clean with 
soap suds ; omit for three days and then repeat for three 
days again, and so on until a perfect cure is produced. 
Should it blister, use it more cautiously. 

This medicine will get up as much inflammation as you 
desire, and must be applied cautiously or it will blemish. 

The following remedy for the cure of ringbone and 
spavin, and taking off enlargements, has been peddled 
through the country as a remedy of the greatest value. As 
high as one hundred dollars has been paid for this receipt. 
I give it as given me. 

Take alcohol, 14 oz.; iodine, 304 grains; bichloride of 
mercury, 150 grains. Let stand in a sand bath twenty-two 
hours, then add 230 drops croton oil; let it stand in sand 
bath twenty-two hours longer, then bottle for use. 

Next take quicksilver, 14 oz.; nitric acid, 7 oz.; stir one 
minute; cantharides, 7 drams; stir five minutes; sulphuric 



200 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

acid, 7 oz.; stir three minutes ; 50 drops of the above lini- 
ment. Let stand five hours, stir every half hour, then add 
7 oz. prepared chalk. 

First shave the hair off the "bunch," then apply the 
liniment with a lather brush. Sprinkle a little of the pow- 
der on paper, and rub on, after washing with the liniment. 
When the bunch is reduced two-thirds, wash with warm 
water and castile soap. In twenty-four hours grease. 

This is one of the very strongest remedies used for spavin 
and ringbone, and if not used with great care is pretty sure 
to blemish. I will here state that educated practitioners 
use the milder treatment, immediately following the des- 
cription of spavin. Properly done, the actual cautery or 
firing is undoubtedly the best and most reliable treatment. 
This is the treatment I use for these difficulties. Dr. Win. 
Somerville frequently charges $100 for curing spavins, &c, 
on valuable horses by firing, guaranteeing not to blemish. 
While the operation of itself is simple, it is one that requires 
rare practical skill, and is done successfully only by a few 
of the best practitioners. 

Youatt, one of the best of the old English authors, says 
in regard to 

FIBING FOB. SPAVIN. 

Whatever seeming cruelty may attend this operation, it is, in many- 
cases, indispensable. The principle on which we \ui\c recourse to it 
is similar to that which justifies the use of a blister; by producing 
superficial inflammation we may be enabled to remove a deeper-seated 
one, or we may excite the absorbents 10 take away any unnatural bony 
or other tumor: it has also this additional advantage, that, while it 
raises intenser external inflammation than we can produce by other 
means, it is the most powerful agent that we have at our disposal. 
Humanity, however, will dictate, that on account of inflammation whi :h 
it excites, and the pain which it inflicts, it should only be had recourse 
to when milder means have failed, except in those cases in which ex- 
perience has taught us that milder means rarely prove successful. 

The part which is to be submitted to the operation is shaved, or the 
hair is cut from it as closely as possible with the trimmii g scissors. 
This is necessary to bring the iron into immediate contact with the 
skin, and likewise to prevent the smoke that will arise from the burned 
hair from obscuring the view of the operator. 

The details of the operation belong to the veterinary surgeon. The 
grand points to be attended to are to have the edge of the iron round 
and smooth; the iron itself at, or rather below red head; to pass it 
more or less rapidly over the skin, and with slighter or greater pressure 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



201 



according to the degree of heat ; to burn into the skin until the line 
produced by the iron is of a brown colour, rather light than dark, and 
by all means avoid penetrating the skin. Leaving the additional 
cruelty of deep firing out of the question, we may depend on it that, if 
the skin is burned through, inflammation, and ulceration, and sloughing 
will ensue, which will be with much difficulty combated; which will 
unavoidably leave unnecessary blemish, and which have destroyed 
many valuable horses. It may happen, nevertheless, that by a sudden 
plunge of the animal, the skin will be unavoidably cut through. The 
act of firing requires much skill and tact, and the practitioner cannot be 
always on his guard against the struggles of the tortured beast. It will 
also, and not unfrequently occur, that the skin, partially divided, will 
separate in two or three days after the operation. This must not be 
attributed to any neglect or unskillfulness of the surgeon, and the ulce- 
ration thus produced will be slight, and easily treated, compared with 
that caused by the actual burning through of the skin. 

Some practitioners blister immediately after firing. As a general 
usage, it is highly to be reprobated. It is wanton and useless cruelty; 
but it may be required in bony tumors of considerable extent, and 
long standing, and interfering materially with the action of the neigh- 
boring joint. Spavin, accompanied by much lameness, and ring-bone 
spreading round the coronet, and involving the side cartilages, or the 
pastern -joint, may justify it. The inflammation is rendered more in- 
tense, and of considerably longer duration. In old affections of the 
round bone it may be admitted, but no excuse can be made for it in 
slighter cases of sprain, or weakness, or staleness. 
The point in firing for a spavin is first to fire over a large surface. 
The perpendicular lines should run about two inch- 
es apart, and the oblique ones about 
a scant half inch apart. The iron 
should have an edge of about a thir- 
tieth of an inch across the edge, but 
smooth and rounding, not sharp or 
too prominently dull ; something like 
the back of a wood-saw, but slanting 
back thick immediately from the 
edge, and should be of steel. Two 
irons are necessary. The end, or 
firing part, shown, is just half size. 
The handle part should extend back 
twenty one or two inches, of simple 
half -inch round iron. 

First clip the hair off the leg to be 
fired for spavin quite close, and over 
about the proportion of surface 
shown, clear around to the middle of 
the leg, behind and before. Now put 
your irons in the fire, and make ready. Aq " f a ^ e f e ng ^ e J 
Back view of a leg Tnere is a g reat difference in horses sliouldbe fired 
fired for spavin, about standing while firing ; .some for spavin. 





202 



FIRING FOR SPAVIN. 





A side view of a leg 
as it should be 
fired for spavin. 



will stand quite well with an ordinary twist on and the opposite hind 
leg tied forward with a rope or strap around the neck. The best "" 
putting in a frame, with the 
irons a dull-red heat. 
Catch a firm hold about ten 
or twelve inches back, and 
draw the edge backward 
and forward rapidly on the 
floor, rolling the edge a lit- 
tle, right and left, so that the 
whole surface will be pol- 
ished smooth. Now draw 
the edge down, forming 
the main outline creases : 
of course they come nearer 
together at the bottom than 

at top. And now for an A view of the leg when 
important point. You must drawn forward after 
not burn through the skin, firing, 
yet as near it as you safely can. Your hand must 
be perfectly steady, and, the instant you rest the 
edge on the skin, draw it steadily but carefully, at 
one stroke, to the end of the line. There should 
be a dull white line, of a uniform size and color. Your eye should 
be on the iron, and the effect it is producing. If the iron is very hot, 
it acts too quick, and may burn through if you are not very careful, 
which is what you must avoid if you would avoid 
blemishing; for, wherever the skin is broken 
through, sloughing will follow, unless you arrest it 
by using an astringent, and then you cannot always 
prevent such a result. If the iron is at just the 
point of heat so that it will burn, but not too rap- 
idly, you are able to repeat the stroke two or three 
times to get it just what you desire. 

Without the perpendicular lines made 
now, you should commence at the bot- 
tom, and draw obliquely from one line to 
g for ragbone. the . other slowly but steadily, like an 
Lines perpendicu- artist who draws a fine brush to make a 
lar (no cross-lines) stripe. The heavier you draw the iron, 
about same dis- and hotter it is, the deeper it will cut ; 

spavin? ^ so that the colder the iron becomes, the 
slower and heavier you must draw it, and 
the hotter the quicker and lighter. Do not make the dis- 
tance between these lines less than seven-sixteenths 
of an inch apart, and not much, if any, over a half inch. 

If you run them much nearer together, and at all 
heavy, the whole skin would possibly slough ; while, 
if you make the lines much farther apart, you will not A side view of a leg 
get the amount of inflammation you desire. As one fire 4 for "* fla " ,_ 
iron gets cold, put it in the fire, and take out the back'tenclons. ^ 
other. If too hot, plunge it into water until just 





FIRING FOR SPAVIN. 



203 





right ; when, as before, rake the edge back and forth on the plank 
or floor : and go on until you get the surface to be fired done. The 
deeper you fire, the more extensive the inflammation ; 
the lighter, the less. Usually, all the in- 
flammation that can be obtained is desira- 
ble ; but, on the other hand, it is impor- 
tant not to leave a blemish, and this is sure 
to follow if the skin is cut or burned 
through. 

Put the horse now in his stall, and next 
day, if the firing is deep and looks very dry, 
rub on a little lard. This will soften 
the skin, and render it less likely to 
ulcerate. In a day or two, if you see any 
part disposed to slough, take a little of the 
Magic Healing Powder, — given in anoth- 
er page, — and dust it on. This is one 
of the nicest healing preparations I ever 
saw, and works finely here. When the 
leg looks dry, put on a little more grease ; 
but be careful about putting much, or too 
often, as it lessens the action of the fir- 
ing quite rapidly, which is what you do 

A front view of not want Nothin g more is necessary to 
a leg tired be done. Let the leg alone, being careful A back view of 
for strain of to keep the horse tied a little short, for he the lines for 
the back ten- may try to bite the part, and cause a severe f o^ifg. e 
ons * blemish. 

A good action of firing will run some two weeks or more. The 
inflammation will gradually go down, until the lines heal and draw up 
together, forming a, 
bit of a seam. In 
about three weeks 
the inflammation 
will be about all 
out. The lameness 
will usually disap- 
pear as the inflam- 
mation now sub- 
sides. If there is 
much enlargement 
and much soreness, A gide yiew of ^ begt f orm of firing . ilon one-half size, 
you may now apply 

a little of the biniodide of mercury ointment, mentioned on page 198, 

about one part of 
I biniodide of mer- 
cury to two or 

A view of the edge of the firing-iron, one-lialf size. three parts of lard, 

more or less, ac- 
cording to the strength desired, and rub on with the hand several 
minutes. Do not attempt to drive or use the horse for five or six 
weeks, or more, if you can avoid doing so. 





204 



FIRING FOR SPAVIN. 



This is really all there is of this matter of firing. It does not mat- 
ter, so far as it effects the cure, about the form of the lines ; but the 
point is, the less the lines cross, or are broken, the less danger of 
sloughing; and made as directed, obliquely, they draw the skin 
shorter, and are thus a sort of a bandage upon the part, which of it- 
self aids absorption. The principle of firing is the same for firing the 
fore-legs, the form of the lines simply being different. For ringbone, 
simply drawing the lines straight down, the same as the cut shows. 

It does but little or no good to fire over the enlargement only ; be- 
cause not getting action enough, unless the surface is burned very 
deep, which would leave a bad blemish. 

So far as medicine will cure, any of the spavin prescriptions under 
that head in this chapter are among the very best. Some of them 
are very active, and splendid in their action. The whole theory is to 
produce a strong local inflammation, which must be kept up, or re- 
newed often enough to cause a union in the bones involved ; we sim- 
ply produce this necessary condition to help nature make a cure. It 
is easy enough to compound medicine that will make the leg sore ; 
but here, as in firing, dissolving the skin will leave a bad blemish, 
and medicine should be used, that, while making a strong irritation, 
will not destroy the skin. 

BLOOD SPAVIN, THOROUGH PIN, 

Soft enlargements upon the hock. If not of long standing, 
the following will be found very 
effective, though simple : Rub 
on soft soap, to which has been 
added a little salt, at night, and 
wash off in the morning. Two 
or three applications will cure, 
if recently caused. If of long 
duration, blister two or three 
times, as for bone spavin. 

Thorough Pin. 



SPLINTS. 

This is an enlargement between 
the cannon and splint bones, show- 
ing itself on the inside of the fore 
leg. The same treatment as for 
spavin. 





Bog, or Blood 
Spavin. 




Changes that may 
be Produced. 



Splint 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



205 



CURB, 




Clean Hock. 



Curb. 




Curb. 



This is an enlargement of the integument, and in some 
cases of bony deposit, usually caused by a strain. It is 
situated on the back part of the hock, just below the cap. 
Blister with remedy for spavin. 



SPRAIN OF THE BACK SINEWS. 

The animal becomes suddenly lame, and by use grows 
worse. Pass the fingers down 
on each of the tendons back 
of the knee. A little enlarge- 
ment, if there, with considera- 
ble inflammation, will be dis- 
covered. Use cooling astringent 
liniment until the acute stage 
passes off. If not better then, 
blister, observing to give the 
animal rest. Firing is the most 

reliable treatment. Enlargement ca^sedby Sprain of «h» 




COFFIN" JOINT LAMENESS 



Is often mistaken by those who are not capable of locar\ s i$ 
the diseases of horses' feet to be lameness of the shoulder, 
from the fact that generally after the shoe is removed, and 
no external injury is discovered in the foot, some distant 
part is selected as the location of the disease. Navicular 
disease is dangerous and treacherous in its progress and 
development. It is commonly caused by violeYi sprains of 
the navicular joint, although sometimes, and in fact, very 
often, may be induced by a contusion of .he frog; and 




206 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

again, there is a disposition to have this disease from heredi- 
tary causes. 

The coffin joint is composed of three bones: the os 
pedis, the navicular and small pastern bones. The navicu- 
lar bones answer the purpose of a sup- 
port in allowing great elasticity of mo- 
tion. The flexor tendon inserts itself 
into the os pedis, and passes immediate- 
ly over the navicular bone, so that at 
each step the navicular bone is thrown 
upon one part of the os pedis and small 
pastern at the same time. It will be 
seen that in all cases of lameness of this 
joint, as well as in any other joint lame- 
ness, that the cartilage of the bones is 
inflamed, and as the disease progresses 
Section of the Parts En- ulceration takes place, and consequently 
tering into the compo- ancholosis. It is almost striving against 

sition of the Foot, and . 111 1 • .1 

the Fetlock and Pas- hope to be able to explain to the gener- 

tem joints. a j rea d er the symptoms to enable ability 

a os suffraginis. 6 Os to locate the disease with any degree of 

coronae. c Os pedis, d certainty. Corns or bruises of the sole, 

^rforans U indperforJtuS contraction, or almost any cause exciting 

tendons, g inferior sesa- inflammation in the foot, may cause simi- 

moideal ligament. h , . -. -, . J , 

cieft of frog, i side of lar lameness, and to an ordinary observer 

Cnfst. Cl fcoronartsuh- there Cann0t be that fine judgment 

stance. necessary to trace from certain pecu- 

liarities the location of the trouble. 
Horses having navicular disease invariably travel more on 
the toe than on the heel, consequently the shoe is always 
worn more at the toe than at the heel. The hoof rarely or 
never is malformed, but the disease commonly occurs in 
healthy looking feet, contraction of one or both heels, which 
will in many cases interfere with the outer cartilage of the 
joint. In the cases of long standing the frog appears to 
recede, and does not have a natural appearance. If the 
horse is taken suddenly lame, sometimes scarcely putting 
the foot down, and only presses upon the toe, feel of the 
foot carefully. If there is heat around the top of the hoof 
and tenderness — even a little at the heel — there is probably 
strain of the coffin joint. In incipent cases (first stages) 
there is fever and tenderness to motion of the joint, which 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 207 

is noticeable by catching the foot in one hand, the ankle in 
the other, and twisting a little. The animal will show pain 
and resist. 

As to treatment, in the first stage, the shoe should be re- 
moved, and have the toe of the shoe hammered down. 
The heels should be raised, and applied again so as to 
remove all pressure from the frog, and a cloth or rug satur- 
ated with cold water applied to the coronet. The bottom 
of the foot should be stuffed with oil meal or some adhesive 
substance. If this is done for a few days, with rest, the 
first attack will generally pass off. 

In the more advanced stage of this di ease it will require 
thorough treatment. The shoe should be formed and ap- 
plied as before, and a severe blistering applied to the 
coronet, which should be continued for from one to three 
weeks, with rest. At a still more advanced stage the frog 
seaton may be used, but this must be done by an ex- 
perienced practitioner. 

In all cases of this disease the animal will require con- 
sideiable rest. 

I would here remark that in an advanced stage of the 
disease the horse is a little lame, sometimes worse, at others 
better; rough road and down hill worse; is no worse to be 
at work ; usually no apparant change in the hoof; will go 
better when the heels are raised by using high-heeled shoes; 
worse by bringing heels to the ground. 

LAMENESS. 

In treating lameness successfully, it is necessary to be 
able to understand the peculiarities of joint from muscular 
lameness, — in fact, of the action and movement incidental 
to each. 

The horse is, for example, lame in the fore foot, and with- 
out knowing just what the trouble is, something must be 
done, and the shoulder is furiously attacked, being blistered, 
seatoned or subjected to some needless form of cruelty 
which can have no effect whatever on the injured part. 

In the first place, if the shoulder is strained or injured, 
the horse cannot raise or put the foot forward naturally. 
He will drag it like, giving it a sort of swinging motion, 
and does not bring it very far forward. On the other hand ; 



208 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

if the injury is in the foot, the foot is raised up and put 
forward easily and naturally, but is put down tenderly. 

Again, a case of muscular lameness, such as shoulder 
lameness, straining of the back sinews, (suspensatory liga- 
ments,) the lameness will get worse by use. That of the 
foot, such as corns, coffin joint lameness, pricking with a 
nail, etc., remain about the same; besides, if there is much 
soreness in the foot, from contraction, corns, pricking, 
strain of the coffin joint, the foot will be put forward or 
rested upon the toe. This will always be the case if there 
is much soreness of the heels, as resting upon the toe re- 
lieves the pressure and pain. Hence it is a marked 
symptom of coffin joint injury, of corns and thickening of 
the lateral cartilages. 

Again, if there is much inflammation, increased heat can 
be felt in the foot. 

FIRST, SHOULDER LAMENESS. 

Symptoms. — The animal drags the leg, with the toe on 
ground, and cannot raise the foot. 

Treatment. — Local bleeding from the plate vein on the 
inside of the leg is very effectual, with a purging ball. Fo- 
menting the shoulder with hot water will be found useful. 
If, in a few days, fomentations do not succeed, and the case 
seems obstinate, rub on thoroughly soft soap and salt, which 
will be found a fine stimulant, and is easily obtained. . If 
any eruption should arise from the application of this dress- 
ing, apply a little sweet oil or lard, which will remove the 
scab in a few days. 

PRICKING. 

If the horse becomes lame after being shod, examine the 
foot carefully. If pricked by driving any of the nails too 
near the quick, there will be heat and tenderness in the 
hoof easily discovered. Tap the nails around carefully; 
when the part injured is struck there will be prompt resist- 
ance shown. Have the shoe taken off, and cut down to 
where the nail strikes the quick, enough to make room for 
any matter that may have formed to escape ; then poultice 
with flax seed meal until the inflammation is reduced, when 
a little tar, resin, or tallow, or something of this kind, 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 209 

should be put on, and the opening filled up with a little tow 
to prevent gravel or dirt from getting in, and put the shoe 
on again. 

COKNS. 

Described in the article on Shoeing. The most difficult 
corns to treat are those in weak, broad heels. If in a high, 
strong heel, and contracted, all that is necessary to do is to 
trim out the corn, dress it with a little mild caustic to pro- 
duce a healthy action, fitting the shoe so as to preclude all 
pressure upon the part, and the horse will go off all right. 
There is not horn enough to protect the heel from pressure 
when the heel is wide and weak, we must now accomplish 
two ends : remove pressure from the sole, and at the same 
time make the heels strong by growing strong, healthy horn. 
Put on a nicely fitting bar shoe, which will protect the heel 
by bringing pressure upon the frog. 

The usual and scientific treatment is to apply a strong 
cantharides blister right over the seat of the corn, on the 
coronet. Stimulants of any kind will increase the action. 
Many remedies are used for this purpose with varied effects, 
but regular blistering really stands at the head of all. There 
is great danger of separation from the continued pressure 
of the shoe upon the affected part. The blacksmith may 
tell you it is a gravel, to shield himself from his inability 
to fit a shoe that will relieve pressure. In such a case it 
will be necessary to let the animal lie still and dress the 
part with an astringent, such as alum and water, sugar of 
lead and water. After the feet seem healthy, put on a bar 
shoe as before stated, and put the animal to work. 

The following remedy seems to have a splendid effect in 
removing soreness and growing the feet. I know of its 
being sold for ten dollars. It is the best thing for the cure 
of weak, sore feet I ever saw. It softens the hoof and 
grows horn rapidly, as well as removes soreness. 

HOOF LINIMENT FOR CONTRACTED OR SORE FEET. 

Venice turpentine, y^ pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; salts 
of niter, 1 oz.; benzoin, 1 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to the 
edge of the hair and all over the hoof once a day for a week; 
after that, for a week or two, three or four times a week, as 
may be necessary. 



210 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

The effect of this preparation on sore, weak feet, and 
upon contracted feet, in many cases, is wonderful, and is 
undoubtedly the best preparation for the feet yet published. 
It is well, however, to bear in mind that the primary con- 
dition of curing contraction is the use of mechanical means 
of expansion as given under that head. 

STEPPING ON NAILS, GLASS, OR ANYTHING THAT 
PUNCTURES THE SOLE OR PROG. 

The first thing to be attended to is to remove the nail, 
glass, or whatever it is, from the foot, carefully. See that 
no part remains, and remove a little of the hoof from 
around the opening. Drop a few drops of Friar's balsam 
into the orifice, and cover the part with a flax seed poultice. 
Friar's balsam can be obtained in almost any drug store. 
If this is not obtainable use the simple digestive ointment, 
given in another chapter. 

HIP LAMENESS 

Is a formidable disease. Its principal seat is in the whirl- 
bone joint, and is usually caused by sprains or falls. The 
animal from this form of lameness will stand on the affected 
limb, and will not show lameness. The muscles are not 
called into action in elevating the limb. Then there is a 
dragging or swaying motion of the limb outwards. By plac- 
ing the hand on the hip joint, an extra degree of heat will 
be found to invest this part. 

Treatment. — First, absolute rest ; • next, same treatment 
and remedies as given for shoulder lameness. Treatment 
should be repeated until recovered, which requires from one 
to two weeks. 

RETENTION OP URINE. 

The most common cause is keeping the animal at work, 
not giving time to urinate, and a spasm of the neck of the 
bladder or gravelly concretions ; any cause of irritation 
may cause spasm. Symptoms are the same as in inflamma- 
tion of the kidneys, except standing very wide behind, and 
when walking, a straddling gait resembling a cow with a 
very full bag. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 211 

The most prompt treatment is to use the catheter, and 
scarcely anything more is necessary. But if one is not ob- 
tainable, bleed freely and give a strong opiate. 3 oz. tinct. 
opium, in half pint of water. 

SCOURS, OR PURGING. 

This disease is generally produced by two causes : change 
of food or water, or unhealthy food, and sometimes through 
nervous excitement. 

Cure. — Neutralize the acids in the bowels by giving an 
ounce and a half of prepared chalk and a dram and a half 
of powdered catechu, mixed in a pint of water. Give once 
or twice a day until purging ceases. Keep the animal with- 
out exercise, and do not give much water to drink. 

If this disease should arise from nervous excitement, give 
a dram of powdered opium in the food once a day for three 
or four days. 

PROFUSE STALING. 

The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diu- 
retic medicines, as saltpeter, resin, &c. Unwholesome food 
will sometimes produce it. 

Treatment. — Give one of the following balls every night : 
Powdered opium, y^ oz. ; powdered kino, 1 oz. ; prepared 
chalk, 1 oz. Mix with molasses, and make six balls. 

Or give the following powder once a day mixed in the 
food : gentian powdered, sulphate iron, a dram and a half 
of each. 

BLOODY URINE 

Is generally the result of injuries of the loins, unwholesome 
food, violent exercise, &c. 

Treatment. —Give plenty linseed tea to drink; if the ani- 
mal refuses it, drench him. Give internally, once a day, 
one of the following pills: sugar of lead, 1 oz.; linseed 
meal, 2 oz. Mix with molasses and divide into eight parts 

SPASMODIC ACTION OF THE DIAPHRAGM, 

Commonly called thumps, is caused by severe and long 
continued driving and hard work. Horses of a nervous 



212 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



temperament having too much cold water given to drink on 
a cold morning, nervous irritation, severe work or excite- 
ment from any cause, may excite this trouble. 

Sy?nptoms. — A sudden jerking or twitching of the muscles 
of the sides and flanks ; pulse wiry, quick and low, more or 
less fever; extremities natural. 

Cure. — This disease being of a purely spasmodic charac- 
ter, but in this case wholly of a nervous nature, bleeding 
must be omitted, and must be treated wholly by giving 
spasmodic remedies. Give assafcetida, in a dose of from 
i to 3 ounces of the tincture, mixed in a half pint of wa- 
ter. Given as a drench will stop it almost instantly. 

If necessary, the medicine may be repeated in two hours. 
Keep the horse well clothed, and keep all exciting causes 
away from him. The bowels should be kept loose and regu- 
lar, by giving bran mashes and moderate exercise. 

WORMS. 



The symptoms of worms are debility, feebleness, slug- 
gish movements, emaciation, staring coat, hide bound, 
skin covered with blotches, irregular and capricious appe- 
tite, tucked up belly, pallid ap- 
pearance of the lining mem- 
brane of the lip, badly digested 
faeces, rubs the tail, and where 
fundament worms exist a whi- 
tish substance will be found 
about the fundament. 

Give of calomel, 3 drams; 
tartar emetic, 1 dram. Mix and 
divide into three powders; one to be given at night for 
three successive nights. To be followed, in twenty-fcur 
hours, with a good purging ball. 




Symptoms of Worms. 





Taenia, or Tape Worm 



Different Kinds of Wormtt. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 213 

INFLAMMATION" OF THE EYES. 

Symptoms. — A watery discharge from the eye, eyelids 
partly closed, membrane of lid on under side much red- 
dened. 

In ordinary cases all that is necessary to do is to keep 
the horse quiet and bathe the eye with cold water. Either 
of the following will be found good : 

Laudanum, i oz.; rain water, i pint. Mix. Or, acetate 
of lead, i dram ; sulphate of zinc, ^ dram ; rain water, 3 
pints. Mix for use. 

Either of the above may be applied with a soft sponge 
two or three times a day. 

Give on the tongue, three or four times a day, three or 
four drops of belladonna. 

More thorough treatment would be a seaton below the 
eye, which of itself, will soon, in most cases, effect a cure. 

The following is perhaps one of the very best eye washes 
used. It is a favorite remedy of great value. I insert it as 
given me. 

EYE "WASH. 

Take three hen's eggs and break them into a quart of 
clear cold rain water; stir until a thorough mixture is ef- 
fected ; boil over a slow fire, stirring every few minutes ; 
add half an ounce of sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol;) con- 
tinue the boiling a short time, and the compound is ready 
for use. In this preparation a solid substance, or curd, is 
precipitated or thrown down, and a liquid solution rests 
upon the top. This is the best wash for sore eyes of either 
man or beast that was ever made. The curd applied to the 
inflamed eye at night will draw the fever and soreness 
nearly all out by morning. After two or three days the 
water should be strained from the curd, and put into a 
bottle for future use. This eye wash is invaluable. When 
applied to the human eye it should be diluted. 

A gentleman who had a copy of my old edition, having 
this remedy in it, informed me that he was offered $10 for 
the book on account of the value of this receipt, having 
used it in his neighborhood with great success, and that he 
would not sell it at any price. 



214 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



CUTS OR WOUNDS— REMEDIES FOR. 

If the cut or wound is very bad, trim the hair off close 
around the edges, and wash out carefully with warm watei 
and castile soap. The object next is to produce a granulating 
process. There is hardly any use in sewing up cuts, as the 
stitches will sluff out. In treating deep wounds, or cuts or 
ulcers of any kind, bear in mind that the matter must be 
sponged or syringed out daily with castile soap and warm 
water, or what is termed a dependent opening must be made 
for the matter to run off. Matter alway burrows or pockets. 
The principle is the same in all cases, — using caustic to cut 
out fungous or other diseased growths; using for indolent 
ulcers proportionately more stimulating preparations than 
for those in a fresh, healthy condition. 

THE FOLLOWING DIGESTIVE OINTMENT 

is unrivaled for the cure of cuts or fresh wounds on horse- 
flesh, and is alone worth more than the price of this book 
to any horseman. 

For a healing ointment the following is unrivaled: 2^ 
lbs. palm oil, 2 lbs. lard, y z lb. gum turpentine, % lb. 
beeswax, 1 lb. calamine. Simmer all together over a slow 
fire, and it will be fit for use. Put a little in the wound 
once a day. Wash the wound with warm water and castile 
soap before applying the ointment. 



A GOOD SIMPLE HEALING PREPABATION. 

Blue vitriol, in the proportion of two drams to a pint of 
water is an excellent application for wounds. If a caustic 
effect is desired, increase the quantity to an ounce or more, 
and it will be found a fine preparation to rouse old ulcers 
to a healthy action. Good for poll evil or other ulcers. 

A fine healing lotion is : Tincture myrrh, 1 oz. ; tincture 
aloes, 2 oz. ; water, y 2 pint. Mix, and apply once a day. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 215 



HEALING OINTMENT FOR CUTS, GALLS, ETC. GOOD. 

Oxide of zinc, pulverized fine, 4 drams; carbolic acid, 6 
grains; lard, 1 ounce. Melt the lard and stir in the zinc. 
Add the carbolic acid and mix thoroughly. Apply once or 
twice a day to the cut or injury. Will cause a healthy dis- 
charge from a foul ulcer. 



XINIMENT FOR OPEN "WOUNDS. A FINE 
PREPARATION. 

Take sulphate of copper (copperas), 1 oz.; white vitriol, 
2 oz.; muriate of soda (salt), 2 oz.; oil linseed, 2 oz.; 
Orleans molasses, 8 oz. Boil over a slow fire fifteen minutes, 
in a pint of urine, all of the above ingredients. When 
nearly cold add 1 oz. of oil of vitriol and 4 oz. spirits of 
turpentine, and bottle for use. Apply to the wound with a 
quill, which will soon set the wound to discharging, and 
perform a cure in a few days. Be careful to keep the wound 
covered either with a bandage or a plaster. Should be 
applied once or twice a day until it discharges freely. 



WASH FOR FRESH WOUNDS. A FAVORITE 
REMEDY OF GREAT VALUE. 

One teaspoonful white vitriol, 1 teaspoonful copperas, 2 
teaspoonfuls fine gunpowder; add to 1 quart of boiling 
water, and let it stand until cool. If the wound is deep, 
apply with a syringe. One of the best of remedies for the 
purpose recommended. 

LINIMENT FOR FOUL ULCERS. GOOD. 

Sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; nitric acid, ^ oz.; water, 8 
to 12 oz. 

COOLING LINIMENT FOR EXTERNAL INFLAM- 
MATION. GOOD. 

Goulard extract, 1 oz.; vinegar, 2 oz.; spirits of wine, 3 
oz.; water, 1^ pints. Apply with a bandage. 



216 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

FOB INFLAMED LEG, GALLED SHOULDERS OB BACK. 
A BEALLY GOOD THING. 

Sal ammoniac, i oz.; vinegar, 4 oz.; spirits of wine, 2 
oz.; tincture arnica, 2 drams; water, yi pint. Mix, and 
bathe with it often and thoroughly. 

BTJTTEB OF ANTIMONY. 

For corns, canker, indisposition of the sole to secrete 
healthy horn, wounds in the foot not attended by healthy 
action, and for every case where the superficial application 
of a caustic is needed, the chloride of antimony (butter of 
antimony) is one of the very best. 

STICKING-PLASTER, FOB CUTS OB WOUNDS. 

Burgundy pitch, 4 oz.; tallow, 2 oz. Melt the articles 
together, and spread on linen or cloth while hot. Cut in 
strips of proper length and width, and draw the wound 
together; warm the strips and apply them. Clip the hair 
short where the plaster is to be applied. 

"WASH FOB BEDUCING AN INFLAMED WOUND. 

One oz. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz. crotus martes, y 2 oz. sugar 
of lead, 1 pint water. A sore will not smell bad when this 
wash is used. 



SPRAINS AND BRUISES. 

It must be borne in mind, the first object in treating 
acute inflammation caused by injury of any kind is to lowei 
the inflammation. Cold water, or one ounce of sugar of 
lead to a pint of water, would be better, and is a remedy of 
great value, to be used repeatedly until relief is afforded. 

The following is excellent : Saltpeter, 4 oz.; sugar of lead, 
1 oz.; muriate of ammonia, 1 oz.; common salt, 1 pint, 
cold water, 2 galls. Mix and bathe the parts affected; 01 
keen constantly wet with the following, which is good: 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 217 

Tincture arnica, 2 oz.; cold water, 1 quart. This will pre- 
vent inflammation or swelling following a bruise or sprain. 



ANODYNE STIMULATING LINIMENT. 

Spirits of hartshorn, 1% oz.; sulphuric ether, \y 2 oz.; 
spirits of turpentine, y 2 oz.; sweet oil, ^ oz.; oil of cloves, 
^3 oz., chloroform, 1 oz. Put into a strong 8 ounce bottle 
and cork tightly; keep in a dark place, or wrap with paper. 
This liniment relieves pain, and is good for lameness, etc., 
and for all cases of strains and soreness. To be well 
rubbed in. 

Oil of turpentine, 1 oz.; tine, opium, 1 oz.; soap liniment, 

1 oz.; tine, capsicum, x / 2 oz. Stimulating liniment; good 
for rheumatism, sprains, etc. 

MAGIC LINIMENT. 

Used very generally; good not only for sprains, bruises, 
etc., after the acute stage, but a fine counter-irritant for 
pleurisy, inflammation, etc.: Oil of spike, 2 oz.; organum, 

2 oz.; hemlock, 2 oz.; wormwood, 2 oz.; sweet oil, 4 oz.; 
spirits ammonia, 2 oz.; gum camphor, 2 oz.; spirits turpen- 
tine, 2 oz.; proof spirits, 1 quart — 90 per cent. Mix well 
together, and bottle tight. 

FOB FBESH STBAINS, ETC. 

Carbonate ammonate, 2 ounces; apple vinegar, ^ gill. 
Rub in well. 



TO ABATE SWELLING CAUSED BY AN INJUBY. 

Take common wormwood, 2 oz. ; New England rum, 1 
quart. Steep the wormwood in the liquor and apply thor 
oughly. 

A FINE SIMPLE LINIMENT. 

Two parts ammonia to 4 parts of soft water, good lor 
strains, etc. 



218 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



THRUSH, 

This is a rotting of the frog, with a discharge of matter 
from the cleft or division of the frog, occasionally producing 
lameness. The treatment is simple and effectual. Wash the 
parts well with soap and water, then apply powdered 
sulphate of copper to the parts, and fill up all the cavities 
with cotton, packed in so as to keep out all dirt. This 
process should be repeated in a few days if necessary. 

For Thrush or Canker : Burnt alum, 4 oz. ; sulphate of 
iron, 2 oz.; sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; camphor, 2 drams. 
Mix. 

MAGIC HEALING PREPARATION. 

Burnt alum, y 2 oz.; prepared chalk, 1 oz.; pulverized gum 
camphor, 1 dram; calamine, pulverized, 2 drams. Mix. 

Sprinkle on the sore. Its effect will be apparently wonder- 
ful, healing a simple wound in a few hours. 

If it is desired to cicatrice a wound quickly, this is to be 
used. Good for fresh wounds, galls of collar, saddle, or in 
fact for any purpose requiring a fine healing astringent. 
This is the receipt for the wonderful healing powder so 
much advertised. Its effect will appear wonderful to those 
not accustomed to its use. It is just the thing for sore or 
lacerated mouths, or any such difficulty requiring great 
astringent healing properties. 



TO REDUCE SWELLING OF THE LEGS AND STRENGTH- 
EN THE TENDONS AFTER HARD DRIVING 

A favorite remedy on Long Island. One pint alcohol, 
1 ordinary sized beef gall, 1 ounce organum, 1 ounce oil 
of spike, 1 ounce gum myrrh, y 2 ounce camphor gum. 
First wash and rub clean and dry. Then bathe with the 
liniment and rub dry. Then apply again and bandage the 
leg, being careful not to bandage too tight. 

This is the best liniment for the purpose recommended I 
have ever used. It should be kept in every stable. 

This is a splendid remedy for the above purpose. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 219 

TO RECRUIT A HORSE HIDE-BOUND OH OTHERWISE 
OUT OP SORTS. 

Nitrate potassa (or saltpeter), 4 oz.; crude antimony, 
1 oz.; sulphur, 3 oz. Nitrate of potassa and antimony 
should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur, and mix 
the whole well together. Dose: A tablespoonful of the 
mixture in a bran mash daily, for a week or two. 

This will be found an excellent remedy. It was given me 
ten years ago, by Dr. T. Burton, of Fultonville, N. Y., (one 
>f the most successful of medical practitioners, and not only 
one of the best horsemen with whom, in my varied experi- 
ence, I have become acquainted, but one of the best men I 
have ever met, and to whose interest and encouragement I 
am more than to any other single cause indebted for my great 
success. It was by this gentleman's advice that I made a se- 
ries of models with which to illustrate the principles of shoe- 
ing, which have so often since been admired by horsemen. 
There are a few chance acquaintances I have made during 
the inception of a checkered career in my profession, the 
icmembrance of whom becomes at all times only a growing 
source of pleasure and encouragement, but chief of them 
all stands this gentleman, whose encouraging predictions I 
now take the liberty of acknowledging in this connection, 
as an assurance of my continued appreciation of his inter- 
est so long ago, and that I have done the best I could to 
prove worthy of his high, flattering assurance of my future 
success.) 

CRACKED HEELS. 

Two ounces resin, 2 ounces copperas, 2 ounces alum, 
1 ounce beeswax, 1 pint tar, size hen's egg of tallow; boil 
over a slow fire, skim off the filth and add the scrapings of 
sweet elder a handful ; when cool, fit for use. 

This is the best local application for cracked heels or 
stufiing of the heels that I have ever used, and is in fact 
one of the very best of healing preparations. 

Six years ago, in Ohio, Turco had an aggravated crack- 
ing and stuffing of heels of so bad a character that I feared 
stuffing of the hoofs. In defiance of all the treatment I 
could then think of for cure, I was compelled to poultice, 
ai*d did so continually, using a variety of preparations 



220 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

including charcoal and night soil as experiments. Of course, 
I could now manage such a case easily, but at that time all 
my efforts were baffled, and there was a strong prospect , f 
my favorite horse I then valued at three thousand dollars, 
being ruined. 

At this time, an old gentleman who claimed some success 
as a "horse doctor," saw the case, and, against my judg- 
ment, insisted upon using this remedy, which he said would 
cure it in two weeks, and, to my surprise and gratification, 
there was a perfect cure in less than that time. 

There was no internal treatment given. It will be found 
a remedy possessing great curative virtues for this purpose. 

In treating scratches or grease heel, a local treatment 
will always be facilitated powerfully, and is almost indis- 
pensable, by giving a dose of physic. 

GREASE HEELS. 

This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the heels 
of the horse. The skin becomes hot, tender and swollen. 
The acrid character of the discharge often causes large por- 
tions of the skin to slough away, leaving an ugly sore 
behind. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels with the following ball: 
Barbadoes aloes, i oz.; pulverized gentian root, 2 drams; 
pulverized ginger, 1 dram; water sufficient to make the 
ball. Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or three 
days with the following : Flax seed meal mixed with a solu- 
tion of 2 drams sulphate of zinc to a pint of water, which 
keep clean, and bathe frequently with glycerine, or the solu- 
tion of zinc ; or a solution of the chloride of lime may be 
used ; or the bichloride of mercury may be used in inveter- 
ate cases with good results, provded it is not repeated 
oftener than once a week. 

CUBE OP SCRATCHES. 

Four ounces tincture arnica, 4 ounces glycerine. If 
leels are cracked badly, add: 1 ounce iodine, 2 ounces 
incture myrrh, y^ ounce gun powder (powdered fine.) 
Put all into a bottle and shake thoroughly; put on two 01 
hree times a day. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 221 

In treating scratches, first give a dose of physic, or a few 
bran mashes. 

CANKER. 

This is a more aggravated form of thrush, often proving 
very troublesome to manage. It is a continuation of the 
thrush between the horny frog and the internal structures of 
the foot, causing separation between them. 

Treatment. — Cut away all the horn which has been sepa- 
rated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply the 
following ointment : Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, 
melt over a slow fire, and add sulphuric acid very slowly 
until ebullition (boiling) ceases, and apply to the parts. 
The foot must be protected from dirt by a bandage or a 
leathern boot. 

QUITTEB. 

This is a formation of pus between the hoof and the soft 
structure within ; a sore at the coronet or upper part of the 
foot, which at first is a hard, smooth tumor, soon becoming 
soft, and breaks, discharging quantities of pus. 

Treatment. — Poultice the foot for several days with flax 
seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut away all 
loose portions, but no more, and inject with a syringe 
either of the following once a day: Chloride of zinc, 2 
drams, dissolved in a pint of water; or, sulphate of zinc, 
1^ drams, in a pint of water; or, nitrate of silver, 2 
drams, in a pint of water; or glycerine may be used with 
advantage. Before using the wash have the foot well 
cleaned with castile soap and water. 

MANGE. 

Take the horse in the sun and scrub him thoroughly all 
over with castile soap and water, then wash him well from 
head to tail with gas water, in which put 2 drams white hel- 
lebore to the gallon. He must now be put in another stall, 
distant from the one in which he has been standing. Thus 
treated, it rarely requires more than one washing to effect 
a permanent cure. The harness should be thoroughly 
scrubbed and put away for six or eight weeks. These pre- 
cautions are necessary to success in this otherwise trouble- 
some disease. 



222 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

No. 2. — Oil turpentine, 4 oz.; oil tar, 4 oz.; linseed oil, 
6 oz. Mix. 

PREPARATION TO KILL LICE ON HORSES. 

One ounce of arsenic to a pail of soft water. The horse 
should be washed thoroughly in some warm place. It is 
not known to many that hen lice and common human body 
lice grow on horses with great rapidity. This remedy is a 
sure cure, and is invaluable. 

t 

NASAL GLEET. 

This is a chronic discharge from one or both nostrils, of 
a whitish, muco-purulent matter, the result usually of neg- 
lected catarrh. The general health of the animal does not 
seem to suffer; he looks well, feeds well and works well, 
yet we have this discharge, which is caused by weakness in 
the secretory vessels of the lining membrane of the nose. 

The successful treatment in all cases where this disorder 
has existed has been on tonic principle. Bleeding and 
purging are positively injurious. Give one of the following 
powders night and morning: Seaquin-chloride of iron, 2 
oz.; powdered cinnamon, 1 oz. Mix and divide into four 
powders. Or: Carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian and 
pulverized quassia, of each 1 oz. Divide into four pow- 
ders. Or: Nux vomica, pulverized, ^ oz.; linseed meal, 
2 oz. Divide into eight powders. Another good prepara- 
tion is: Muriate of barytes, y?, oz.; linseed meal, 1 oz. 
Divide into eight powders. The last is best. 

CAUSTICS 

Are substances which burn away the tissues of the body 
by decomposition of their elements, and are valuable to 
destroy fungous growth and set up healthy action. 

Corrosive sublimate, in powder, acts energetically. 

Nitrate of silver is excellent to lower granulation. 

Sulphate of copper, not so strong as the above, but good. 

Chloride of zinc is a powerful caustic. It may be used 
in sinuses, in solution, 7 drams in a pint of water. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 223 

MILDER CAUSTICS. 

Verdigris, either in powder or mixed with lard, as an 
ointment, in proportion of one to three. 

If a wound or an ulcer will not heal so long as there is a 
foreign body, or unhealthy growth in it ; hence, if a wound 
or puncture from any cause, there must be a removal of 
hair, pieces of wood, bone, etc. No matter what you do, 
if any foreign body remains in the wound, it will not heal. 
This done, wash it or inject with warm water and castile 
soap, after which the regular digestive ointment can be 
used, or a mild solution of any of the remedies recom- 
mended for the purpose. But if fungous growths cannot 
be removed with the knife, a caustic becomes necessary, a 
little of which is to be put on the part, or into the sinews. 
Carrying this treatment to extreme implies using a hot iron. 
(The actual cautery.) 

FARCY— CURE OP. 

One-quarter pound sulphur, }i pound saltpeter, i ounce 
black antimony. If acute, give one tablespoonful twice a 
day. If sub-acute, once or twice a week. 

The sum of $50 was repeatedly paid for this prescription, 
and it has made some marked cures. It is regarded as 
specific for farcy in the portion of Ohio in which I obtained 
it. In two instances, gentlemen who have used it in the 
treatment of farcy have informed me it cured, and ex- 
pressed themselves as valuing it worth $50. 

The following is my regular treatment for this formidable 
disease : 

Three drams of powdered sulphate of copper, given every 
night in the food, until the animal refuses to eat. After a 
few days repeat, but if the case is bad give the medicine in 
water as a drench, for ten days, if he will not take it in his 
food. 

CONDITION POWDERS. 

Take 1 pound of ginger, 1 ounce of anise seed, pulver- 
ized, 1 ounce of fenugreek seed, 2 ounces of ginseng root, 
pulverized, 1 ounce of the seed of sumach berries, pulver- 
ized, 1 ounce of antimony; mix it with one pound of 



224 DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 

brown sugar. This is excellent for coughs, colds, or to 
give a horse an appetite. 

TO CUBE COUGH— NO. 2. EXCELLENT. 

Put all the tar into alcohol it will cut, and add one-third 
in quantity of tincture belladonna. Dose: From one to 
two teaspoonfuls once or twice a day. Very good. 

TO CURE COUGH— NO. 3. 

Take tartar emetic, i oz.; resin, 2 oz.; bloodroot, 1 oz.; 
salts of tartar, 2 oz.; ginger, 2 oz. Mix, and give a tea 
spoonful three times a day, in the feed. 

COUGH POWDER. 

Fenugreek, ginger, licorice and bloodroot, equal parts 
Half proportion lobelia and camphor may be added. Dose 
tablespoonful twice a day. For heaves, add more camphor 

DIURETIC DROPS 

that are reliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or in- 
flammation of the kidneys, in all cases : 

Take of sweet spirits of nitre, 4 oz.; balsam copaiba, 
2 oz.; oil of juniper, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.; 
gum camphor, pulverized, 1 oz. Mix all together, and 
shake well, bottle, and it is fit for use for man or beast, 
under all cirumcstances where a diuretic is required. 

Dose : For a horse, 1 oz. in half a pint of milk once in 
six hours ; for a man, 1 teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of 
milk once in six hours. 

Be sure to shake the ingredients up well before turning 
out for use. 

THE PULSE. 

The beating, as it is termed, of the heart, and that of an 
artery, tells the exact condition of the circulation and of 
the health, to the experienced practitioner. 

In a state of health the pulse is from 36 to 40 in a min- 
ute. It will be felt easiest and best at the lower jaw, a 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 225 

little behind where the sub-maxiliary artery and vein come 
from the under jaw. Pass the ringer down the jaw, up near 
the neck on the inner edge, and you will feel a cord-rike 
ridge, and upon quietly but firmly pressing it you will feel 
it-throb or beat. Each contraction of the heart forces a 
jet of blood through the arteries throughout the system. 
The arteries are strong elastic tubes, which expand as the 
blood is forced through them, but contract again as soon 
as the volume of blood passes, forming a beat which can 
be plainly felt under the finger at this point. It is highly 
important to understand the condition of the circulation 
to treat diseases, especially of an acute character, success- 
fully. 

Frequent reference is made to the state of the pulse in 
different diseases, such as colic, pneumonia, laminitis, &c, 
&c. Hence it should be studied carefully. For example, 
during the early stage of colic, the pulse will be hardly af- 
fected, and the ears and legs will be natural in tempera- 
ture; while in inflammation of the bowels the pulse will be 
quick and wiry, ears and legs cold, &c. In fever it is 
quick, wiry and light, indicating the extreme or not of ob- 
struction in the circulation. 

BLEEDING. 

For general bleeding the jugular vein is selected. The 
horse is blindfolded, or his head turned away; the hair is 
smoothed along the course of the vein with a moistened 




Raising the vein. 



226 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



finger, then with the third and little fingers of the left hand, 
which holds the fleam, pressure is made on the vein suffi- 
ciently to bring it into view, but not to swell it too much. 
The point to be selected is about two inches below the 




Bleeding from the Neck Vein. 



union of the jugular vein at the angle of the jaw. (See cut.; 
The fleam is put in a direct line with the vein at the center, 
when it is to be hit sharply with a stick. See 
that the fleam is large, sharp and clean, for if 
rusty or dull, inflammation of the vein might 
result. It is of great importance that the 
blood be drawn quickly. When sufficient 
blood has been taken, the edges of the wound 
should be brought closely together, and kept 
together by a small sharp pin being passed 
through them. Around this a little tow or a 
few hairs from the mane of the horse should 
be wrapped, so as to cover the whole of the 
incision, and the head of the horse should be 
tied up for several hours, to prevent his rub- 
bing the part against the manger. When the 
bleeding is to be repeated, if more than thiee 
or four hours have elapsed, it will be more 
piudent to make a fresh incision, rather than to open the 
old wound. 




first 
stuck through 
the lips of the 
wound ; a por- 
tion of tow, 
thread or hair 
is then wrup« 
ped round the 
pin. 



VALUABLE MISCELLA>, EOUS RECEIPTS. 227 

PHYSICING. 

It is always best, if possible, to prepare the horse for 
physic by giving a bran mash twenty-four hours previously, 
as the medicine will act more favorably and there is less 
danger of superpurgation. Five drams of aloes (Barbadoes 
aloes are always used for horses) will act as forcibly after a 
mash as seven without. Again, the quantity of physic should 
be adapted to age and size. The rule is to give one drain 
for each year up to seven. Eight drams is the largest given 
at one dose. 

Physic Ball: Barbadoes aloes, pulverized, 7 drams; bar 
soap, 4 drams ; ginger, 1 dram. The usual way is to mix 
the ingredients in this proportion, then reduce to the weight 
intended and give. 

For Alterative Balls simply give from one to two or three 
ounces of mass, as above prepared, two or three times a 
week, for a week or two. 

For Worms : Give 4 drams aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2 
drams ginger, about the size of a bean of calomel, and 
molasses enough to make into a ball. To be given every 
morning for three days. 



VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
The following remedies will be found excellent: 

DEENCH FOB DIABBHCEA. 

Opium, 1 dram; prepared chalk, 1 oz.; compound pow- 
der of tragacanth, 1 oz.; mint water, 1 pint. 

MERCTJBIAL ALTEBATIVE BALLS. 

Calomel, y 2 dram; aloes, 1 dram; castilesoap, 2 drams; 
oil of juniper, 30 drops; syrup to form a ball. 

ASTEINGENT BALLS. 

Catechu, y 2 ounce; alum, 3 drams; cascarilla, 2 drams; 
flour, 2 drams; treacle. 



228 VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

DBElfCHES TO PROMOTE PARTURITION 

Ergot of rye in fine powder, 2 or 3 drams ; pennyroyal 
water or infusion of rue, 1 quart. 

FOR DIABETES. 

Opium, 1 dram; ginger, 2 drams; oak bark, p. 1 oz.; 
decoction of oak bark, 1 pint. 

CORDIAL AND ANODYNE BALL. 

Castile soap, 3 drams; camphor, 2 drams; ginger, ij£ 
dram, and Venice turpentine, 6 drams, made into 1 ball. 

AROMATIC POWDER. 

Caraway, 6 oz.; pimento, 4 oz.; ginger, 2 oz.; licorice, 
2 oz. Mix. Dose, 6 to 8 drams. 

COOLING AND DIURETIC DRINK. 

Dissolve 1 ounce of nitre in a pail of water. 

TONIC BALL (VEGETABLE TONIC). 

Peruvian bark. 1 ounce; opium, ^ dram; ginger, ij4 
dram; oil of caraway, 20 drops. Treacle to form a ball. 

DIURETIC ALTERATIVE BALLS. 

Dried common soda, 1 oz. ; castile soap, 6 drams ; resin, 
2 oz.; licorice powder, y^ oz.; Barbadoes tar, to form 6 
balls. One daily. 

LAXATIVE ALTERATIVE BALLS. 

Aloes, 4 oz. ; soft soap, 4 oz. ; common moss *\ 01 
Mix. Dose 1 oz. 



VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 229 

BALLS FOB APPETITE. 

Equal weights of assafoetida, saffron, bay berries, and 
aloes, made into a mass with extract of gentian. Dose i oz. 

ANODYNE BALL. 

Opium T /& dram to i dram; camphor, i dram; anise 
seed, ^ oz.; soft extract of licorice. 

CORDIAL BALLS. 

Ginger and gentian, equal parts ; treacle to form a mass. 
Dose, i oz. to i^ oz. 

Ginger and caraway, each 4 lbs. ; gentian, 1 lb. ; palm 
oil, 4^2 lbs. Beat together. Dose, 1 oz. to 1^ oz. 

MIXED BALLS, COBDIAL ASTRINGENT BALLS. 

Catechu, 1 dram; opium, 10 grains. To wash horses 

BEFORE OR AFTER A JOURNEY. 

DIUBETIC BALLS. 

Resin soap and nitre, of each equal parts, beaten together 
into a mass. Dose, 1 oz. to 1^ oz. 

White soap, 8 oz. ; nitre, 3 oz. ; 3 resin, oz.; camphor, 
3 drams ; oil of juniper, 3 drams. For 6 balls, one every 
morning or every other morning. 

TONIC DIUBETIC BALL. 

Gentian, 1 dram; ginger, y 2 dram; sulphate of iron, 2 
drams; nitre, j4 oz. ; resin, j4 oz. Mix with molasses. 

FEVEE BALLS. 

Emetic tartar, *4 dram; camphor, j4 dram; nitre, s 
drams ; ginger, 3 drams. Mix in ball. 



230 VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

Antimonial powder, 2 drams; nitre, 3 drams; cream 
tartar, 2 drams ; honey to form a ball. In influenza twice 
a day, after a mild laxative. 

BALLS FOB FARCY AND GLANDEBS. 

Sulphate of copper, 1 dram; calomel, 20 grains; common 
turpentine, 3 drams; licorice powder and syrup to form a 
ball. 

Sulphate of iron, 2 drams; iodide of potassium, 10 gr.; 
gentian, 2 drams; ginger, 1 dram, and treacle to form a 
ball. 

COUGH BALLS. 

Emetic tartar, y 2 dram; digitalis, x / 2 dram; nitre, i}£ 
dram; tar enough to form a ball. One every night. 

Powdered squills, 1 dram; gum ammoniac, 3 drams; 
opium, y 2 dram ; syrup to form a ball. 

FOB BLOODY TJBINE. 

Acetate of lead, 10 gr.; sulphate of zinc, 40 gr.; catechu, 
4 drams ; conserve of roses to form a ball. One daily. 

FOB DIABETES. 

Catechu, ^£ oz.; alum, ^ dram; sugar of lead, 10 gr.; 
with conserve of roses to form a ball. 



ANODYNE DRENCHES. 

Opium, 1 dram, dissolved in warm water, ^ pint ; add 
1 quart of starch gruel. 

Mix tincture of opium, 1 oz. with sweet spirits of nitre, 
\yi oz.; ess. peppermint, 1 dram, and water, 1 pint. 



VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 231 

WOBM POWDERS 

Sulphur, i oz.; tartar emetic, 4 drams; common salt, 
8 oz., liver of antimony, 1 oz. Mix for 6 doses; 1 daily, 
in wetted corn. 

TO CUBE AN INDOLENT ULCER. 

Take the green scum that gathers on the water in the 
frog ponds in the spring and summer ; boil over a slow fire ; 
then add fresh butter to the consistence of an ointment. 
This is an Indian remedy; cured an ulcer of seventeen 
years' standing that had resisted all other treatment. 

The gentleman whom it cured deemed it so valuable, and 
desiring to benefit those that may be similarly afflicted, re- 
quested that I would put it in my book. 

For a lacerated wound and bruise, I have found the 
following so effective a remedy that I insert it. It has a 
peculiarly soothing, healing effect. I once had one of my 
big toes crushed by a heavy horse stepping upon it ; under 
like circumstances, previously found even arnica or lauda- 
num to afford the desired relief; by pouring some of this 
on the part, wetting the stocking, in fifteen minutes I had 
no pain, and had no trouble afterwards : 

Simple tincture of marigold, called callendula, reduced 
one-third to one-half with soft water. Bathe the part re- 
peatedly with it. It possesses remarkable healing qualities. 

GRAIN POUNDER— CURE OP. 

Take three pints of vinegar, into which put six red pep- 
per pods, and boil until reduced to one quart. When cool, 
give as a drench. Blanket the horse warmly. This will 
put the horse in a profuse perspiration, and perform a per- 
fect cure. The gentleman of whom I got this, cured a 
valuable horse that got into his granary and ate so much 
grain that he was in the morning perfectly stiff". One dose 
made a perfect cure. He said he would not be without it 
for one hundred dollars. 



232 VALUABLE MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

CONDITION POWDER. 

One-half pound grains paradise, ground; ^ lb. ground 
ginger; ^ lb. powdered gentian; 6 oz. cumin seed, ground; 
6 oz. fenugreek, ground; 6 oz. carbonate soda; 6 lbs. 
common brown sugar; i^ lbs. salt. Put in one hundred 
pounds of meal. Dose: one pint to be given with the 
usual food. 

This is considered one of the best tonic condition pow- 
ders ever used. It is sold in the eastern cities at a large 
price, under the name of Condition Food, and is held as a 
secret of great value. I have known #50 to be refused for 
the receipt. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



There are chance receipts here that will be found valuable. At all 
events, I give such plain, practical explanations, and include the best 
remedies, obtained by me in various ways during my experience, as I 
believe best and most reliable. Dr. Somerville informs the writer that 
he is having the best of success lately in treating colic and inflamma- 
tion of the bowels with the fever medicine. He gives about a tea- 
spoonful every thirty minutes until there is relief. 

You will, however, find the regular treatment under those special 
heads, colic, pneumonia, inflammation of bowels, founder, to be, if 
available, the best the writer has found, and in fact he gives the best 
treatment he can. Altogether, this edition will be found much better 
than any former one. 



TO CURE A FISTULA, POLL EVIL OR ANY INDOLENT 
ULCER. 

Burn corn cobs to ashes, fill the sore to the bottom with the ashes. It 
may be necessary to repeat two or three times, until a cure is effected. 

A countryman who claimed he could cure any fistula, poll evil, etc., 
with one or two applications of a certain remedy, brought forward 
several neighbors who fully endorsed his assertions. One man said he 
had a horse that had been doctored for fistula for two years without 
doing any good, and at large expense. He was advised by this man 
to treat as above directed, and a cure was effected in a few weeks. 
Others who had used it endorsed the statement in the strongest terms. 
In the cases referred to there was no effort at dressing the ulcer. The 
ashes were stuffed to the bottom, when a granulating process set in 
and gradually healed up. Being simple and safe it is worthy a trial, 
and persons using it will confer a favor by reporting result to me at 
Buffalo, N. Y., from which point all mail matter will be received. 



TO CURE WEAK BACK. 

O. J. Madison, livery keeper and large dealer in horses, of Mas- 
sillon, Ohio, a few years ago, cured several very bad cases. One horse 
was so weak that he would fall down and could not get up ; said it 
would cure any case of weak back, ard that he never knew it to fail. 

233 



234 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

Give one grain of strychnine night and morning ; next take equal 
parts of pine tar and pitch, warm until it spreads easily, and spread 
over the small of the back, from the hip forward ten inches, and 
across to almost the points of the hips ; then spread on cantharides 
(should be well pulverized) until the pitch is thoroughly covered ; 
then cover with two thicknesses of cotton flannel. 

A stiff sticking plaster of this nature is called a charge, and the 
following is one of the best formulas : 

Burgundy pitch or common pitch, 5 ounces ; tar, 6 ounces ; yellow 
wax, 1 ounce, melted together, and when they are becoming cool, 
half a dram of powdered cantharides well stirred in. This must be 
partially melted afresh when applied, and put on the part with a large 
spatula as hot as it can be without giving too much pain. Tow or 
cotton should be scattered over it while it is warm , this forms a thick, 
adhesive covering, which cannot be separated from the skin for 
months. This is applied for old sprains of the loins, and also strains 
of the back sinews. The charge acts in three ways — by the slight 
stimulating power which it possesses, gradually removes all deep- 
seated inflammation ; it promotes absorption of any thickening 
beneath, and gives general strength to the parts. 



DR. SHELDON S TREATMENT FOR WORMS. 

Dr. Sheldon says it never fails to clean the worms out of a horse. 

1st. Bran mash. In 24 hours give I drachm of santonine, which 
should be dissolved in water; then 'mix in a quart of starch, and give 
as a drench ; in 30 minutes give aloes in solution sufficient to move 
the bowels promptly. The rule, as to the amount of aloes to be 
given, is explained on page 197, under the head of Physicking. 

The same authority claimed such success in the cure of Tetanus, 
which is among the most difficult diseases to control, that I include 
his treatment. He claimed that it never failed to cure : 

Take a large handful of lobelia (about 1 lb.) ; steep in a gallon of 
water ; give one quart of the infusion ; put poultice of same over the 
back of the head ; same on the cut, or part injured, and continue re- 
peating, at first in thirty minutes ; repeating at longer intervals, as 
there is improvement. Blanket warmly and keep in a quiet place. 

Dr. Sheldon practices near Canandaigua, N. Y.; a man of experi- 
ence He claims the most perfect success by this treatment. He was 
for several years, Surgeon in charge of 7th Avenue R. R. stables, in 
New York city. [Regular treatment on page 165.] 

I would remind that the veterinary practice is mixed and doubtful 
iu the treatment of tetanus. Prof. Somerville said, I have tried all 
kinds of treatment and failed. It is a hard disease to control. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 235 

STICKING PLASTER THE VERY BEST. BY AN OLD 

PHYSICIAN. 

Burgundy pitch, I oz. ; dragon's blood, I oz. ; oxcoro, I oz. ; Venice 
turpentine, I oz. Put in a cup ; melt together. Spread, while warm, 
on leather or cloth. 

old mr. gould's preparation for putting on the 
clamps for castrating horses. 

Mr. Gould is a resident near Bath, Steuben Co., N. Y. He is 
known in that and surrounding counties for his success in castrating 
horses, claiming to have never lost a case, and but little swelling after 
the operation. 

The writer took particular pains to see the old man operate, and 
learn his secret. 

The horse was laid down and tied in the usual manner. He 
washed the parts thoroughly with warm water, and then greased with 
lard. The clamps were of the usual kind. It is the preparation he 
put on the clamps that made his success, he said. 

He put on the clamp, first rye flour paste ; on this sifts on equal 
portions of red precipitate and corrosive sublimate, mixed together in 
powder. In 24 hours the clamps were taken off. This method of 
treatment has been pursued for many years by a friend of the author, 
and he claims, with unfailing success, by never having lost a case, and 
is followed by no appreciable swelling. 

WIND-BROKEN, WHEEZING, OR WHISTLING. 

On page 165 is given a remedy for the cure of whistling, and author- 
ity. This proof, when set up, I was unable to read, but arranged, as I 
supposed, for its being made according to copy. The printers, how- 
ever made a bad blunder. Instead of " sponga fosta," it should 
read " Spongia, and Fowler's " solution, 20 drops each, or 20 drops of 
one in the morning, and the same of the other on the tongue at night, 
and so repeating until a cure was effected, requiring from four to six 
weeks. Mr. Conklin referred to, of 25 Jackson street, of that city, 
informed the writer recently, after being carefully questioned about it, 
after an experience of nearly five years, that his success has been en- 
tirely satisfactory. Instead of dividing and giving alternately night 
and morning, as before stated, he unites the medicines, and gives of 
both, so united, 20 drops, night and morning. He said further, that 
rilling a sponge with spongia and pushing it up the nostrils of the 
horse until thoroughly absorbed into the system, would give marked 
immediate relief to a heavy or wheezy horse ; that he depended upon 
it for relief to show up a horse well. 

The above medicines are not on sale at the drug stores. Go to a 
Homoeopathic Repository to get them or you will be annoyed and 
disappointed. 



236 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



TO CURE WEAKNESS AND WEEPING OF THE EYES THE 

LIDS SWOLLEN AND THE EYES WEAK. FOR HORSES. 

An old man's Remedy. Claimed that he never failed in curing 
with it. 

Take saltpetre, i% oz. ; sulphate of zinc, I oz. ; suga-r of lead, I oz. 
Mix all with a pint of vinegar and a quart of soft water. Take a 
small sponge ; fill with it and squeeze in the hollow over the eye once 
a day until a cure is effected. 

CURE OF BIG LEG AND BLOOD SPAVIN. 

Mr. James Brown of Troopsville, Cayuga Co., N. Y., cured a Blood 
Spavin, by rubbing on at night a simple blister (i part Spanish flies 
to 4 parts lard). 

He put on the blister at night, and washed it off in the morning 
and applied a liniment of salalmoniac and vinegar (reduced one-half 
with water), rubbed in thoroughly, using the liniment two days and 
blister one. It took nearly six weeks to make a cure. 

For Big Leg, this treatment was kept up for eight weeks, to make 
a cure. 

BRUISE AND CUT ON MAN OR HORSE. 

A favorite prescription of great value. 

Laudanum, I oz.; arnica tine, I oz.; sassafras oil, I oz. Mix, band- 
age lightly, when possible, and keep wet. Said the gentleman who 
gave the above prescription, I bruised one of my fingers terribly, liter- 
ally smashing nail and flesh. I was in the greatest pain. When, 
after hours of suffering, a gentleman from New York accosted me, and 
learning my trouble, said for thirty cents I can relieve and cure you. 
He gave me this prescription. I had it put up, kept my finger wet with 
it during the night, and next day there was no pain, and in two days 
my finger was well. It removes all fire and pain and heals by first 
intention. 

There are two prescriptions in this book that are above all price for 
cuts and bruises. One is the tincture of marigold, called callendula, 
described on page 201, and the above. For man or horse they 
are unrivaled and are worth far more to any family than the cost of this 
book. One of my horses (Tommy), was kicked and seriously injured, 
deep holes being made in the shoulder by the corks of the shoe. Se- 
vere swelling and soreness followed immediately, making the horse 
seriously lame and sore. Bathing thoroughly during the same evening 
and r.ight, following with the first-named remedy removed all soreness 
and he went to work next day apparently as well as ever, and the cuts 
were healed in two days. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 237 

Mr. James Ben net, of Cleveland, a gentleman of great skill as a 
horseman, and of the highest integrity, called my attention to the cal- 
lendula preparation. Said he, I never saw anything that would take 
out soreness like it. A stallion bit me on the back. I was in great 
pain. A gentleman obtained some of it which he poured upon my 
shirt over the part, and in twenty minutes I was relieved from pain. 
The writer, in Painesville, Ohio, had a mare offered that pulled, on a 
walk, six men by the bit around the ring. It was an exhibition of the 
most desperate pluck imaginable. The result was the animal's tongue 
was cut fully half off, and the mouth was badly bruised and became 
terribly swollen in a short time. I had a few ounces of caliendula with 
me, which I had previously obtained to try it, if opportunity presented. 
I reduced some of it one-third to one-half with water, and bathed the 
mouth with it thoroughly, repeating at first every hour, and next day 
every two to three hours. In the course of a few hours the swelling 
went down and within three days the tongue was healed and the mouth 
was entirely well. 

You can make caliendula by filling a bottle with marigold blows 
and filling it with good whisky, and let stand until the strength is taken 
up by the liquor. Reduce this one-third to one-half for use. Or you 
can get it at a homoeopathic repository. It is not usually kept in 
ordinary drug stores. 

COUGH DROPS, FOR COLD AND COUGH. 

Fluid extract belladonna, to to 15 drops in a tablespoonful of water 
on the tongue three or four times a day. If there is swelling of the 
glands of the neck, and especially if the attack is acute, apply any 
stimulating liniment or mild blister — anything that will act well as a 
counter-irritant. This works splendidly in most cases. In fact you will 
find it just the thing, as we have found and proved by long experience. 

COUGH POWDERS. 

An excellent remedy. 

Liquorice root powdered, fenugreek, lobelia, blood root, camphor 
gum, equal parts. Dose — tablespoonful two or three times a day in 
feed. In all cases of acute or chronic cough, if thickening of glands 
of neck, stimulate outside neck sharply. 

EYE WASH. 

A remedy of great value for inflammation of the eyes or sores of 
any kind. 

Crotus martes and white vitriol, equal parts ; dissolve in a half-pint 
of snow water or pure soft water. Dissolve thoroughly, and when 
settled pour off and add half as much more water. If too sensitive, 
or much inflammation, reduce. 

This has cured fever sores when all other treatment failed. Alzerah 
Williams, Mrs. Waite of Jamestown, N. Y., and John Woodford of 
West Hickory. Pa., were cured by it. 



238 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



FOR DEEP WOUNDS. 



Prevents inflammation or tendency to sloughing or mortification. 

One lb. saltpetre, I gallon water, I quart best whisky. Inject into 
the wound with a syringe three times a day until a cure is effected. 

A gun-shot wound, a foot deep, in the thigh of a horse (the ball 
could not be found, remaining in the leg) was perfectly cured in two 
weeks by this treatment. 

In treating deep and dangerous wounds, especially if the animal is 
plethoric or fat, take away the grain, give a dose of physic, feed 
bran, carrots, etc. If grass is available substitute it for hay. You can 
also omit physic if grass is given freely. The acid on the grass neu- 
tralizes physic and makes it unnecessary. 



FOR REMOVING CALLOUSES OR THICKENING, CURBS OR 
BUNCHES OF ANY KIND. 

Oil origanum, oil spike, oil amber, spirits turpentine <tnd camphor, I 
ounce each. Rub on thoroughly two or three times a week. 

When in Ohio, the writer bought a fine work horse very cheap, on 
account of having a very bad curb on one of his legs, making a very 
disagreeable blemish. He was purchased late in June and kept con- 
stantly to the hardest pulling as a wheel horse. A little of the above 
medicine was rubbed on about once a week, sometimes oftener, and 
again would frequently neglect doing so for more than that time. By 
fall the enlargement was all gone, and the leg was as smooth and well 
as the one opposite. 

SLOW BUT SURE CURE FOR SPAVINS. 

Spirits of turpentine and hog's lard, simmer in the sun three or 
four days. Apply three or four times a week until well. By this 
treatment the horse may be kept to his work. 



TO CURE FITS. 

Put as much valerian root, and the castor or wart from a horse's 
leg, which is to be cleaned and cut into small pieces, as will be di- 
gested in a pint of whisky. Dose — three teaspoonfuls each day, and 
repeated until a cure is effected. A son of Mr. Hoyer's, of Shelby, 
Niagara county, N. Y., twelve years old, was subject to fits terribly, 
being in a fit sometimes, Mr. Hoyer stated, for two hours. Dr. Fail- 
ing, of Royalton, next town, obtained the above remedy in Canada, 
which cured the boy in six months. Mr. Henderson, hotel keeper oi 
Otisco, N. Y., claimed to have been cured by this prescription. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 239 

A spavined horse will travel better if the inside heel-cork is ham- 
mered down, or the inside of the shoe is perceptibly thinner, so as to 
relieve pressure upon the inside of the leg. If ringboned before, 
hammer down the toe-cork, and turn the toe up like a well worn 
down shoe, rounding up like a sled crook with medium crooks be- 
hind. The object is to enable the.foot to roll or turn on the ground 
easily, and thus bring less strain upon the joint which is sort and 
sensitive. 



TO CURE CUTS OR BRUISES OF THE CHEEKS. 

Use inside I dram tannin to ^ oz. borax, three or four parts 
water ; swab once a day inside of wound. P'or outside dressing, use 
tincture myrrh and aloes (described on foot page 1S4). All wounds 
or injuries before being dressed should be washed or sponged clean 
with castile soap and tepid water, then dress with medicine. Wounds 
or sores should not be dressed oftener than once in 24 hours. 



MAGIC LINIMENT. 

Two oz. oil of spike, 2 oz. origanum, 2 oz. hemlock, 2 oz. worm- 
wood, 4 oz. sweet oil, 2 oz. spirits ammonia, 2 oz. gum camphor, 2 oz. 
spirits turpentine, and I quart proof spirits — 90 per cent. Mix well 
together, and bottle tight. For sprains, bruises, lameness, etc., in man, 
this liniment, without turpentine, is unrivaled. 



Note. — This prescription was obtained by the writer twelve years ago, in On 
ondaga Co., N Y. Much was claimed for it ; that it would cure lame back, 
bruises, sprains, etc., and with the turpentine worked well upon horse flesh. My 
attention has been particularly called to it during the past two years by parties 
who used it. In Niagara C«., N. Y., a gentleman, in looking over his book after 
the school, pointed to it, saying : "There is a receipt I would not take $50 for." He 
said a very fine horse in that neighborhood a few years ago got strained in the 
back so badly that he could not get up in consequence. A negro from Syracuse, 
took the horse in charge, made and applied a liniment to the back, bathing it in 
thoroughly twice daily. There was rapid improvement ; the animal being soon 
able to get up, and got entirely well. He offered the negro $10 for the receipt, 
without avail, that he made the nigger drunk and stole the receipt from him, 
" and," said he, " that's it exactly." He took down a bottle from a shelf in the 
sitting-room (in Charlotte, Niagara Co., N. V.), saying: " Here is some of it ; 
they could not keep house without it here. For toothache, neuralgic pains, 
sprains, etc., the landlady said it was indispensable ; that they kept it always in 
the house." This was corroborated by others. 

At Clifton Springs, Ontario Co., N. Y., during my last tour through that sec- 
tion in 1874, a gentleman pointed out the same prescription taken from my ola 
book, and said he would not take $100 for it ; that he had cured 40 cases of neu- 
ralgia with it ; that he put up the medicine as a specialty for that purpose, at 
$1.00 a bottle ; first making it up for his wife, who was troubled with neuralgia 
curing her. It was used by others with the same result. The demand becorrinj 
so great that he put il up as a specialty and had thus secured a large local sale c f it. 



240 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



TO GROW HAIR. 

Add as much sulphur to sweet oil as will make it thick as cream ; 
rub thoroughly into the tail or mane twice a week. This will grow 
hair on a tail rapidly. One of my horses rubbed the hair off his tail 
so as to spoil it. The skin was smooth and glossy, but no hair would 
grow there. Some one told me to apply the above ; in a short time a 
thick heavy growth of hair started and grew to full length. Gifford 
lost all the hair from his tail, falling out (in 1873), in defiance of all 
that could be done. The above was rubbed well into the dock twice 
a week, and a heavy growth of hair soon started, making a fine tail. 



FOR SCRATCHES, SADDLE GALLS, ETC., SORE TEATS, CAKED 
BAGS, ETC., IN COWS. 

Two oz. Goulard's extract ; 2 oz. sulphate zinc ; 8 oz. lard. 

Dr. D. Van Camp, a resident of Theresa, Jefferson Co., N. Y., in 
1861, with whom the writer became acquainted at that time, made a 
sort of specialty of this medicine, to dairymen, claimed that it would 
cure sore teats, caked bags, etc. Dairymen regarded it through that 
section with special favor, as the medicine sold readily for such use, 
and the receipt was sold to quite a number of farmers, after the medi- 
cine was used by them, for $10 to each. The Doctor gave the receipt 
to the writer on condition of not giving it to any one in that section. 

SURE CURE FOR NEURALGIA (SELECTED). 

The Norwalk Gazette says : " A friend of ours who suffered horri 
ble pains from neuralgia, hearing of a noted physician in Germany 
who invariably cured that disease, crossed the ocean and visited Ger- 
many for treatment. He was permanently cured after a short sojourn, 
and the doctor freely gave him the simple remedy used, which was 
nothing but a poultice and tea made from our common field thistle. 
The leaves are macerated and used on the parts afflicted as a poul- 
tice, while a small quantity of the leaves are boiled down to the pro- 
portion of a quart to a pint, and a small wine-glass of the decoction 
drank before each meal. Our friend says he has never known it to 
fail of giving relief, while in almost every case it has effected a cure." 



TO STOP HAIR FALLING OUT. 

Fill a bottle with lobelia (roots and stems). Fill the bottle now with 
whisky ; scent with anything desirable ; wet the hair, rubbing well 
into the scalp, once a day for a week or two. This is as good as it 
is simple. The writer's hair was coming out badly ; this was used 
with perfect success. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 241 



BOTS. 

There has been and is so much misconception about bots and their 
destructiveness to horses, that a few words about them seems advisable. 
All horses that are exposed to the bot-fly, must, as a result, have bots 
in their stomachs. But the question of interest is, what can you do for 
the cure of bots. In a report by Dr. Adams, published in the " Med- 
ial and Agricultural Register," he stated, having made the following 
experiments at different times on bots three-fottrihs grown: 

When immersed in rum, they live, 25 hours ; decoction of tobacco, 
II hours ; strong oil of vitriol, 2 hours, 18 minutes ; essential oil of 
mint, 2 hours, 5 minutes. Were immersed, without apparent injury, 
in spirits of camphor 10 hours ; fish oil, 49 hours ; tinct. aloes, 10 
hours ; in brine, 10 hours ; solution indigo, 10 hours. A number of 
small bots, with one that was full grown, were immersed in a strong 
solution of corrosive sublimate, one of the most powerful poisons ; the 
small ones died in one hour, but the full-grown one was taken out of 
the solution, six hours after its immersion, apparently unhurt. 

Bots hang to the muscular coating of the stomach, on the upper 
side. We see very plainly that we cannot put any medicine into the 
stomach that will affect the bot, that will not destroy the coating of 
the stomach, and injure or destroy the horse. In the second place, 
there is no veterinary surgeon of any pretension to skill, or being 
authority, who can tell the symptoms of bots from colic. No attention 
in fact is given to the subject of bots in practice. The symptoms 
usually indicate colic, the case is treated accordingly, and cured, and 
the presumption of the diagnosis is supposed to be correct. No man 
can tell the symptoms of bots from colic, and if he could, he could do 
nothing for their expulsion ; this is the opinion of the best veterinary 
surgeons in the country. I have been led to take up time and space 
with this matter to aid the reader should he have occasion to treat an 
attack of "bellyache" or colic. The majority of horsemen will doc- 
tor anyhow for bots without, in fact, knowing but little about the 
difficulty. Do not be misled ; follow the treatment laid down for 
colic on pages 146 and 148, and follow it rigidly. Do not be misled by 
persons who may assume to know just what to " give to cure." The 
treatment given has been used by the writer in hundreds of cases with 
success, and it is the standard treatment of one of the best practition- 
ers in the country. 

A CURE FOR RHEUMATISM. 

The berry of the common scoke-weed, or scoke-root — often called 
poke root. The berries when ripe should be put into spirits — gin is 
the best — at the rate of two ounces to the pint. Of the tincture thus 
made, a tablespoonful is given three times a day. This simple rem- 
edy, persisted in for a week or more, has effected some remarkable 
cures. Has been published by the press as a rem ,dy of value and is 
thrown in. 



242 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

ITCH OINTMENT (FOR Man). 

I oz. red precipitate; I oz. spirits of turpentine; 2 oz. Buigund) 
pitch ; ^ lb. fresh butter. Melt the butter and pitch, and add the 
other ingredients, stirring until cold. 

VEGETABLE CAUSTIC. 

Make a strong lye of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron kettle, 
and evaporate to the consistence of thin molasses ; then remove into 
a sand bath, and continue the evaporation to the consistency of honey. 
Keep it in a ground stopped glass jar. 

This caustic is very valuable in fistulas, cancers, scrofulas and indo- 
lent ulcers, particularly where there are sinuses, necrosis (or decay oi 
bone), and in all cases where there is proud flesh ; and also to excite a 
healthy action of the parts. It removes fungous flesh without exciting 
inflammation, and acts but little except on spongy or soft flesh. 

A VALUABLE REMEDY (CLIPPED FROM THE PRESS). 

Every family should keep a quantity of chlorate of potash. We 
have never found anything equal to it for a simple ulcerated sore 
throat. Dissolve a small teaspoonful of it in a tumbler of water, and 
then occasionally take a spoonful of the solution so as to gargle the 
throat. It is nearly tasteless and not at all offensive to take, and is 
hence well adapted to children. Nothing is better than this for chap- 
ped or cracked hands. Wash them in a weak solution and they will 
soon be well. It is also good for a rough, pimply or chapped face. 
It may be procured at any druggist's. 

SORE MOUTH. 

The lips frequently become sore at the angles of the mouth, from 
cutting or bruising of the bit. Tincture of myrrh and aloes, equal 
parts, applied to the sore, will soon cause it to heal. 

A VERY FINE HEALING PREPARATION FOR CUTS. 

Equal parts tine, myrrh and balsam copaiba. To be used once a 
day. This is the favorite remedy of one of the most successful horse- 
men, a man of good sense and remarkably successful. It is one of the 
best of healing remedies. 

TO CURE BOILS. 

Two parts cream tartar, one part sulphur, one pirt whisky. (About 
four cents' worth of each of the two.) 

Take one tablespoonful three mornings; then skip thice mornings, 
and so on, for nine mornings. Obtained by an -old man, and claimed 
to be an infallible cure. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 243 

TO CURE COLDS, CHILLS, AND LUNG FEVER. 

Take tincture aconite, I oz. ; veratrum, \ oz. ; soft water, 4 oz. ; dose 
25 to 40 drops on the tongue, to be repeated every thirty or forty min- 
utes, more or less, and at longer or shorter intervals according to the 
severity of the case. You may substitute belladonna for the veratrum ; 
and, if there is much chill, 30 grains of quinine can be added, which 
must be cut with sulphuric acid before mixing. 

The first is the Fever Medicine used so generally in the principal 
stables in New York and* other cities. This is what I use for my own 
horses. I have seen it used for the cure of hundreds upon hundreds 
of cases of inflammation of the lungs, and in all cases of chills and 
fever arising from exposure to cold. This prescription is priceless to 
owners of horses, because it makes the treatment so safe and simple, 
and it is just as good as it is simple. 

FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE EYE, CAUSED BY INJURY, 
HAYSEED, ETC. 

Put 30 to 40 drops of the preparation into a tumbler of soft water, 
and you have a fine preparation for acute inflammation of the eye, the 
result of an injury. I have used it with marked success. Bathe the 
eye with it several times a day ; keep the horse in a dark stall, and 
take away all grain. Feed green grass, bran mashes, &c. 

FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN, OR MEGRIMS. 

The horse is taken suddenly with a fit from undue pressure of blood 
upon the brain. (See megrims, or inflammation of brain.) Give the 
fever medicine three times a day for a few weeks, and a cure will be 
effected. Several horses subject to this difficulty, that required bleed- 
ing, &c, every few months, were given the fever medicine three times a 
day for a few weeks. No relapse followed. 

When the horse is exposed to cold, and has a chill, ears and legs 
cold, &c. (see symptoms of lung fever, &c, in a preceding chapter), 
give the fever medicine promptly: do not give physic or oil. 
Put the horse in a well-ventilated stall, where no current of air can 
strike him. Put on a good warm blanket. You may rub the legs, and 
use even a sharp liniment ; but it is seldom necessary to do more than 
give the medicine, and let the horse alone. The pulse, ease of breath- 
ing, and the heat in the ears, will indicate improvement. 

FOR RHEUMATISM IN MAN. 

Three times the writer has been cured of severe attacks of rheuma- 
tism, in two to three days, by taking 8 to 10 drops of the fever medi- 
cine on the tongue. 

Years ago the writer, on two occasions, was kicked on the shin, 
causing serious ulceration, most difficult to cure. In 1875 had the same 
part badly cut ; severe pain and inflammation followed. As a mere 
matter of chance experiment, 40 drops of fever medicine were put into 
a glass of soft water ; a handkerchief was saturated with this, and tied 
around the leg at 7 and 10, P.M., and at 7 and 10 o'clock next morning. 
All soreness and inflammation subsided, making a perfect cure. 



244 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

Have used it about same strength in several severe cases of inflam- 
mation of the eye, from injury (in horses), with the most marked suc- 
cess. Simply bathe the lids, and drop it into the eye from a sponge 
from four to six times a day. 

I state the simple facts, and hope they may serve to help others. 

HOOF LINIMENT FOR CONTRACTED OR SORE FEET. 

Venice turpentine, ^ pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz. ; salts of nitre, I 
oz. ; benzoin, i oz. ; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to the edge of the hair and 
all over the hoof once a day for a week ; after that, for a week or two, 
three or four times a week, as may be necessary. 

Gifford, one of my trained horses, when seven years old, was found- 
ered. At that time I knew nothing about the treatment of diseases in 
horses ; and besides, I did not see the horse until five weeks after 
being foundered. His feet became small, dry, and hard, and so brittle 
and weak that with three clips on a shoe we could not hold a shoe 
with nails on either forefoot. The horse was a complete cripple, and 
ruined. The above prescription was given me by a Western man, 
who claimed great things for it, for curing soreness and weakness of 
the feet. Its application two months gave not only a good condition 
of the hoofs, but cured of all soreness ; and now, after eight years' use, 
the horse has sound, strong feet. This grows good, tough horn rapidly. 
It will make the horn soft, and, preventing evaporation as well as stim- 
ulating growth, is the best hoof-liniment of which I have knowledge, 
and is invaluable. 

Note. — In this prescript'on in another part of the book, the word "benzoin" 
was inaccurately printed " benzin." 

A NAIL IN THE FOOT. 

For driving a nail into the foot, or stepping on a nail, the following 
treatment you can rely upon. 

If a nail has been driven into the foot, get the horse to the stable as 
quick as you can, take off the shoe, poultice the foot, and give a sharp 
dose of physic, and let the animal stand quietly. The object is to keep 
down inflammation. No hot oils or any thing stimulating are to be 
applied. 

A little of the digestive ointment maybe used after the inflammation 
goes down, to excite a healthy granulating process, or any cooling astrin- 
gent. There is liable to be tenderness if the sole should strike the 
ground afterwards, as there may be inflammation of the periosteum, to 
relieve which, put on a high-heeled shoe, and blister around the coro- 
net. The sole is sometimes bruised by the shoe pressing upon it, 
causing much inflammation and lameness. Take off the shoe, poultice 
for twenty-four hours or more ; fit the shoe so as to remove all pressure 
from the sole ; if sore yet, continue the poultice ; if matter is formed, 
treat as you would any simple ulcer, with a healing astringent. Several 
good preparations are given in another part of this work. 

Note. — The digestive ointment prescription is given as the first and best remedy 
for healing cuts and fresh wounds, under the head of Cuts. 

FOR CRACKED HEELS. 
Two ounces resin, 2 ounces copperas, 2 ounces alum, 1 ounce bees- 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 245 

wax, i pint tar, size hen's egg of tallow ; boil over a slow fire, skim off 
the filth, and add the scrapings of sweet elder, a handful ; when cool, 
fit for use. 

This is the best local application for cracked heels, or sloughing of 
the heels, that I have ever used, and is, in fact, one of the very best 
of healing preparations. 

Years ago I owned a horse that had a fearful condition, the fore- 
feet cracking and rotting. Army men said the feet were taken as they 
were in the army, when the feet rotted off. I despaired of being able 
to cure the horse — a valuable one. After doing every thing that I 
could think of without success, an old drunken horse-doctor gave me 
the above prescription, asserting that it would make a perfect cure in 
two weeks. Its use did cure perfectly in that time, and is one of the 
best I ever saw. It is good to heal any kind of a cut or sore, saddle- 
galls, &c. 

FOR COLIC IN HORSES. DR. BURTON'S REMEDY. 

A Favorite Prescription of Great Value. 
Sulph. ether, I pint ; aromatic spirits ammonia, I pint ; sweet spirits 
nitre, 2 pints ; opium, \ lb. ; asafcetida (pure), \ lb. ; camphor, \ lb. 
Put it in a large bottle, let it stand fourteen days, with frequent shak- 
ing, and it will be fit to use. Dose : one ounce, more or less, accord- 
ing to the severity of the case, once in from thirty minutes to an hour. 
Should be given in a little water. 

Note. — By using the same proportion of tincture for the gum you can use this 
immediately. 

Dr. Burton of Fultonsville, N.Y., regards this prescription for colic as invaluable. 
He is a gentleman of high attainments, and large experience as a medical man ; and 
the above he said was the best remedy for colic he ever used, that he never knew it 
to fail in making a cure. He said at one time a boatman was about leaving his horse 
to die on the tow-path, from a severe attack of colic, when he came along. The man 
was induced to go two miles for some of the medicine, which relieved the horse in half 
an hour. I use the remedy given under the head of Tympanitis, or Flattdent Colic, 
and never knew it to fail when given promptly. 

A GOOD APPLICATION TO A PUTRID ULCER. 

To remove fetid smell of fistulous withers, poll evil, canker, and 
wounds, dilute chloride of lime with twenty times its quantity of water, 
and dress with it whenever there is an offensive discharge ; mix a 
poultice with this preparation, and put it on. It will remove all smell, 
and cleanse by its action. 

SWEATING OR LIQUID BLISTER. 

An infusion of two ounces of Spanish flies in a pint of oil of turpen- 
tine. This forms a good liquid blister. If you wish to make a good 
sweating blister, so that it will raise a certain degree of irritation and 
inflammation on the skin, but not sufficient to blister, good to gradually 
remove some old or deep-seated inflammation, or cause of lameness, 
add a little common oil. Should be rubbed in well. 

THE BEST CORDIAL FOR A HORSE. 

The following is the best cordial for a horse that is old, has lost his 
appetite, and is recovering slowly from sickness, or for an old horse 
that has been worked too hard. 



246 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

Four parts each of carraway powder and bruised raisins, and two 
each of ginger and palm oil, beaten into a mass. This is harmless, and 
is one of the very best. 

A TONIC BALL. 
Good for Chronic Debility after Sickness or Overwork. 
Gentian, 4 drs. ; chamomile, 2 drs. ; carbonate of iron, 1 dr. ; 
ginger, 1 dr. 

DIGESTIVE FOR HEALING RECENT OR OLD WOUNDS. 

They act as mild stimulants to produce a healthy granulating action 
to heal. 

The best digestive or healing preparation is that given first, under 
the head of Cuts. A weak solution of blue vitriol, in the proportion of 
two drachms to a pint of water, is also a good preparation. 

A very good healing ointment is one composed of three parts of 
calamine ointment and one of common turpentine. Sponge the cut or 
wound with warm water and castile soap, and dress with the prepara- 
tion once a day — no oftener. 

ASTHMA. HOW CURED. 

Take smart-weed, carefully dried. Fill an earthen bowl with smart- 
weed, pour in hot water, and cover until steeped. Take half a glass 
three times a day until cured. Given by James Garcelon of Lewiston, 
Me. Mr. Garcelon for two years could not sleep, except by sitting in a 
chair. Relief was immediate, and a cure was effected in a year. 

Another Remedy. 
A lady of intelligence in Western New York told the writer that her 
uncle was cured of asthma by taking a teaspoonful of salt in half a tum- 
bler of water before going to bed at night, and in the morning ; that he 
sat up to sleep for years ; that he had taken the salt and water for a year. 
He was entirely relieved of the asthma, but he kept taking the salt and 
water. 

HOW TO GIVE RELIEF IN OBSTINATE CONSTIPATION. 

Cyrus W. King, of Brunswick, Me., was relieved by this remedy after 
taking pills, &c, and failing to get a passage of the bowels for seventeen 
days. Put a table-spoonful of coarse Indian meal into a cup, and wet 
thoroughly with common molasses, and take it all. An old lady who 
happened to hear of the case said she could relieve the man in a few 
hours, and advised this. It was taken at night, and there was perfect 
relief by morning. 

TO CURE COLIC IN MAN. 

Take at once a tumblerful of hot molasses. A sailor who was de- 
lirious from colic, and nearly dead from it, was relieved in five minutes. 
Calling my attention to it, and claiming it would cure every case, I was 
induced to make a note of it. The sailor said he took cold molasses 
with the same effect. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 247 



TO CURE A FEVER-SORE. 



Take 3 ozs. blue vitriol and 3 ozs. gunpowder. Boil in a quart of 
soft water until thoroughly dissolved, and reduced to one-half the quan- 
tity. Pour on to the sore while hot as can be borne. 

Steven Johnson of Gouverneur, N.Y., was cured of a fever-sore on 
his arm, of the worst character, of a year's standing. Doctors said he 
must lose his arm, — his own words. There was necrosis of the bones 
of the arm ; sores in three places ; was cured by one application. Mr. 
Olmsted, of Oxbow, N.Y., had a bad sore below the knee ; went on 
crutches for six months ; was cured with one application. Several other 
cases were reported of an equally remarkable character. 

TO CURE AN INDOLENT ULCER. 

A gentleman who had a fever-sore on his leg for seventeen years, had 
spent five thousand dollars in trying to get the sore cured, and had no 
hope of having it healed, was cured in three months by the following 
remedy : — 

Take the green scum that gathers on the water in the frog ponds in 
spring and summer ; boil over a slow fire ; then add fresh butter to 
the consistence of an ointment. Dress the sore with it once a day. 
The man claimed to have given it to others who were afflicted with 
obstinate ulcers, and that it had made perfect cures, and wished, from 
humanity to others so afflicted, that I would give it an insertion in my 
book. 

FOR WEAK BACK, RHEUMATISM, AND CRICK IN THE BACK. 
British oil, 1 oz. ; oil of spike, 1 oz. ; origanum, 1 oz. ; camphor, 1 oz. ; 
alcohol, 1 pint. Put the British oil and camphor into the alcohol first ; 
shake well. T. H. Brown, of Madrid, N.Y., was cured of rheumatism in 
the leg with this. His mother had a crick in the back ; was entirely dis- 
abled. A few applications cured her. Accounts of its valuable effects 
in the cure of other cases were reported. 

THE GREAT TANNING PREPARATION. 

This is the great secret sold a few years ago for tanning 
all kinds of skins with the hair on. The secret and right to use it were 
sold through the country at large prices. 

To two pails of water add 2 lbs. alum ; 2 quarts salt ; 2 lbs. Epsom 
salts ; 2 oz. oil vitriol. Wet and scrape the meat and oil out ; then put 
the skins into the liquid and let stand from eighteen to twenty-four 
hours. 

REMARKABLE CURE. 

The following is a case of remarkable cure of bruise of thigh, from 
the use of hot salt. 

H. D. Johnson of Pottsdam, St. Lawrence Co., N.Y., fell from a build- 
ing, twelve feet, upon a pile of wood, injuring him seriously in different 
parts of the body — the thigh very seriously bruised, causing him to 
faint away. He had a stiff leg for a month, the part swollen from the 
hip to the foot to twice its size, was treated with cold water by advice 



248 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

of three physicians. The limb was entirely stiff and disabled. As a 
matter of experiment he bound on a poultice of hot salt about an inch 
thick before going to bed. Next morning he could move and bend his 
leg, the swelling was all gone down and he was perfectly cured. 

The simple facts, as stated above, were given to the writer six years 
after the injury by Mr. Johnson. 

FOR SPAVIN, IN FIRST OR ACUTE STAGE. 

40 grs. nitrate silver to 2 oz. water. Apply from three to five times 
a day. If the horse has been driven or exercised, apply it when brought 
in from work. 

FOR SCRATCHES, A VALUABLE REMEDY. 

Sweet oil, 6 oz. ; borax, 2 oz. ; sugar of lead, 2 oz. Frst wash clean 
with soft water and castile soap ; when dry apply once a day. This is a 
good thing. 

FOR RHEUMATISM, LAME BACK, AND DIFFICULTY OF THE 
KIDNEYS (IN MAN). 

Digitallis, calcicum, and aconite, equal parts. Take 10 to 15 drops in 
water, twice a day. This is a favorite prescription that is valued 
highly, — worth, so claimed, many times the cost of this work. 

FOR STRAIN OR INFLAMMATION, 

Whenever there is much inflammation from strain or wounds : 1 lb. 
saltpetre, 1 gal. hot water ; when cool add 1 quart best whiskey. Sat- 
urate a sponge or cloth with the preparation, and keep the part thor- 
oughly wet with it. 

HOW TO THROW A HORSE. 

First, have made a strong leather surcingle, long enough to go 
around the body of the horse, to which have attached a strong back 
strap and crupper. On the off side of the surcingle, about eight 
inches from the back, have a two-inch ring ; from this ring to the back 
strap at the hip have a strong double strap extend. Now put on this 
harness, which will be like a bitting harness. 

Next take a common hame strap, pass around the near fore leg 
and over the surcingle, buckling only short enough to allow the foot 
to come in a horizontal position, or the strap can be tied around the 
arm and foot. This done, take a cord eighteen or twenty feet long, of 
the strongest kind you can get, about y% inch in size, if strong enough ; 
tie the end into a knot; about twenty inches from this end make 
another simple knot, but do not draw it tight. Now pass this end 
over the neck, put the end knot through the tie, or other knot, and 
draw close. The object is to have the cord fit around the neck, some 
distance from the head. Pass the other end of the cord through the 
ring in the side of the surcingle ; at the same time let the cord at the 
other end extend through the mouth. When the cord is now drawn 
tight it will be seen to pass from the neck through the mouth back 
through the ring, and by pulling on the end held in the hand the head 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 249 

will be drawn to the side. The leg on the opposite side being tied up, 
when the cord is pulled upon the horse must roll over on his side. 
This plan will enable throwing a horse very easily, and will enable 
doing all that is possible to do by this principle of subjection. 

SHOEING. 

In the first place the object of trimming and fitting the foot for the 
shoe is to bring it back to its natural shape and bearing. If the foot 
is healthy, the safest course is not to touch the frog or sole, but cut 
down the wall from the heel to the toe until the bearing is natural. 
The bearing of the shell or hoof should be level. The shoe should 
be made to fit the foot, only so much longer as the foot will grow in 
the time it is expected to be on. The bearing surface of the shoe 
should be level, and fit exactly all the way round to the foot. This 
means just what is said ; and the owner should see that the shoe is 
level at the heels, and not beveled-in cup shape, as shoes will usually 
be found when ready to be nailed on. Next see that the shoe is as big 
as the foot. The best way is to sternly object to allowing the foot to 
be touched with a red-hot shoe, and never on any conditions to allow 
the shoe to be burned into the foot to fit it. 

Let the nail holes be as well forward in the toe as possible ; at all 
events, do not allow the nails to go into but one heel. 

Do not, under any circumstances, allow any rasping under nail 
clenches, and none over them ; no filing at all on the outside of the 
hoof, not even below the clinches, excepting enough down near the 
shoe to round the edge, but on no account should the hoof be cut 
down to the shoe, because the shoe happens to be small or short. 
This sort of work must not be allowed, yet it is just what all country 
shoers will insist on doing. Simply let the nails be cut off with nip- 
pers, clenched down upon the outside of the horn, and if there is any 
soreness or tenderness the hammering should be light, and carefully 
.done. As to corks, &c, their object is to prevent slipping. In a state 
of health the nearer the foot is to the ground the better. If the feet 
are getting dry and hard, you should take measures to keep them 
damp, — flaxseed wet with water, stuffing or buckling a couple of 
thicknesses of wet blanket around the foot. The simplest way is to 
throw some water on the bedding under fore feet during the day. 

CONTRACTION. 
If in a state of health. the object should be to keep the feet natural 
and healthy, the object now should be to bring the foot back to its 
natural shape. If one heel is drawn in, then this heel only should be 
brought back natural. If both heels are drawn in, then both should 
be spread back. Two conditions now become necessary : first, that 
the foot is prepared properly ; and second, that we have mechanical 
means that will enable spreading the heels without injury, vet as 
desired. The practice of sawing between the heels and frog, and then 
putting on an expansion shoe and spreading the quarters outward 
violently, is exceedingly cruel and dangerous. In the first place, if the 
object is to weaken the horn between bar and frog, it can be done but 



250 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 

very imperfectly with a saw ; and violently spreading the heels, and 
thus, in a measure, bursting the shell apart, will produce violent in- 
flammation and lameness. Spreading the heels even in some cases a 
quarter of an inch, but little resistance may be shown, the horse may 
walk to his stable all right ; but in a few hours, if examined, he may be 
in great pain, possibly in a high state of fever. It is really very doubt- 
ful policy for you to intrust a good horse in the hands of doubtful 
men who travel the country, assuming to cure all sorts of lameness by 
this system of treatment. 

The first thing to be done in the way of curing contraction, is to 
thoroughly soak the feet, by tying two or three thicknesses of blanket 
around the feet and keeping wet for 24 hours, or standing the feet 
in a tub in which is some mud. When the horn is soft, cut down 
the feet level to the point of removing the superfluous horn; now, 
with a knife adapted to the purpose, weaken the horn between the 
heel and point of the frog, especially back, near, and at the point 
of the heel. This done properly on both sides, fit a shoe of the 
simple flat kind accurately to the shell. Well back at the turn on 
each side, cut or file out enough, as shown in the Tyrrell shoe, but 
further back, so that it will bend as desired, about at the widest part. 
Now lay on the shoe as intended to be nailed, and mark on the outside 
over the inside of the bar at the point of the heel ; punch or drill two 
holes through, if you can, obliquely the direction of the bar; make 
and drive two strong spikes from the ground surface up. Now bend 
and file these spikes so that they will extend up and back inside the 
bar at the point of the heels. The shoe must fit all round : there must 
be special attention to having those spikes fit, resting against the bar, 
but not so long as to come against the sole above. Nail on now care- 
fully. Do not, by any means, allow the nails to be large, or rasping 
of the shell outside. This done, spread the shoe not over three- 
sixteenths of an inch, if shoe is fitted close. The heels, it is seen, 
are spread so far as the shoe is opened. This spreading should be 
repeated once every one or two days, but never more than an eighth of 
an inch at a time, but follow it up until the foot is brought back to its 
natural shape. 

If the heels are weak, do not grow horn enough, do not cut away 
any when paring for the shoe. Simply level the foot, being as careful 
as you can not to waste by undue cutting where there is none to spare. 
The shoe should be fitted carefully, and in this case must, in a measure, 
protect the foot. For where the horn is light at the heel, the sole is 
also usually light, and will not bear pressure. 

If there is a corn, you must protect that part from pressure, and 
this is done best by bringing pressure on the frog with a bar shoe ; but 
if there is weakness or inflammation in the coffin-joint, this is not by 
any means advisable, as it would aggravate the difficulty. You must 
now use an ordinary open shoe with middling high heel-corks, with no 
toe-cork ; on the contrary, you should round the toe to imitate an old 
shoe, by bending or turning up the toe. If the horse is stiff and sore, 
in all cases round the toe, so that the foot will naturally roll a little, 
and thus in a measure relieve the strain upon the machinery of the 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 251 

foot and joint above it. To make the heels stronger, that is, have 
more horn, stimulate coronary ring at the upper edge of the hoof, 
using a mild blister, just enough to stimulate sharply, twice a week, or 
use the Hoof Liniment ; but you must grow horn from the top down, 
and you will not see benefit until you have grown the foot down pretty 
well. If you have contraction, open the feet as directed, minding to 
keep the feet stuffed when in stable ; at all events, the feet must^not 
be allowed to get dry and hard. 

QUARTER CRACK. 

The only practical way to cure quarter crack is to open the heel on 
that side, between bar and frog, cutting well down, but not to bleed, 
until the quarter will give freely, then put on the shoe for expanding 
the heels. In this case you are to open or spread only the inner heel. 
The hoof is simply too small for the foot, and doing this properly 
reaches the point directly. In addition, burn with a firing iron a crease 
across at the upper edge of the hoof. If this is done properly the 
hoof will not split any more. You may now grow the hoof more 
rapidly if you desire, but opening the foot and shoe is the point of 
success, 

MR. BONNER'S SYSTEM OF FEEDING. 

In the morning, at five o'clock in summer, and six o'clock in winter, 
each horse is given two quarts of oats. At nine o'clock two quarts 
more are given, and the same quantity is given again at one o'clock. 
Before feeding, each horse is given all the water he will take, unless 
he is to be driven, in which case the allowance is cut short a little. At 
five o'clock in the afternoon the allowance of hay is given, usually 
about ten pounds to each horse, and none is given at any other time 
during the twenty-four hours. At nine in the evening each horse is 
given a hot supper, prepared as follows : For the ten horses, twenty 
quarts of oats are put into a large kettle and boiled, after which is 
added about the same quantity of wheat bran by measurement, with 
the proportion of a teaspoonful of salt to each horse. The whole is 
thoroughly mixed, and when sufficiently cool, each is given his share. 
If not driven, each horse is walked from half an hour to an hour daily, 
and the greatest care is taken not to expose them needlessly for a 
moment without clothing. 

INGENIOUS ARRANGEMENT 

For sifting, cleansing, and measuring the grain for feeding. The grain 
is conducted from the left to the feeding floor by a spout in which are 
two slides. Pulling one of them out a few inches permits the escape 
of two quarts, and the other four quarts of grain, which is depos- 
ited in a drawer beneath, in the bottom of which is a screen with the 
handle projecting from the side of the spout. Moving this handle 
right and left a few times removes all dirt and dust, and leaves the 
grain clean and fresh, ready for use. 



PROF. MAGNER'S EDUCATED HORSES. 



The portraits of my horses and ponies, on the opposite 
page, all stallions, which was cut from a painting of them, 
mide from life, by one of the most eminent artists in the 
country, and is a perfect representation of them, will give a 
better idea of their beauty and value than any worded des- 
cription I could give. They are conceded by all who have 
witnessed their performances, to be the finest, most beauti- 
ful, best educated, and most valuable troupe of horses ever 
owned, for the purpose of giving free exhibitions by which 
to amuse and interest horse men and others in my efforts; 
and never before, perhaps, was there so fine and valuable 
an equipment used in illustrating and teaching the science 
of educating horses. 

These horses are not only of the most varied character, 
but their performances are unquestionably the most exci- 
ting and interesting ever exhibited in this country, showing 
all the peculiarities of driving without reins or bits, and 
show a sagacity and intelligence in the ring that is conceded 
to be most wonderful. 

a?unco, 

Turco, the farthest on the right, is a black stallion of 
Duroc-Morgan blood. He is nearly fourteen years old, of 
beautiful form. He was, when a colt, remarkably viciojs; 
at four years old, having resisted all efforts to break him, he 
was purchased by me of Esq. Cole, of Smithville, Jeffer- 
son county, N. Y., in June, 1861. He was trained by me 
in Smithville, and among the most interesting features of 
his training was that of driving to carriage without bridle 
or reins. The performances of this horse excited the great- 
est attention in all the principal towns and cities of the 
north and east. I trained several horses to drive with him, 
and he has been driven and exhibited, double and single. 
by me, through the principal towns of twenty-three states 
252 



PROF, magner's educated horses. 253 

This ceasing to be a novelty, by the number of horses 
soon after so trained by others, who assuming the most ex- 
travagant pretensions, made it no better than a burlesque, I 
superseded it with other and more interesting features ol 
performance under canvas, as now exhibited by me daily. 

This fine horse has shown some peculiar features of saga- 
city. He will not allow a stranger to loaf around him, will 
allow any one to approach, feed, water and clean him, but 
curiosity seekers who may show any timidity in going nea* 
him, are soon reminded that he is not to be trifled with, 
but is perfectly docile. 



Gifford, the black horse on the near side, is of Mor 
gan blood, ten years old, and is one of the most beautifully 
modeled, as well as one of the finest performing horses in 
the country. Have owned and exhibited him for nearly 
five years, both north and south. Among his most remark- 
able feats is that of acting vicious or gentle at will. He 
will play sick in the most natural and wonderful manner, 
even groaning from apparent intense pain. 

BIiIKTD BILIiY. 

Next on the off side, to the left, is represented Blind 
Billy, which is acknowledged by all witnessing his per- 
formances, to be not only the finest modeled pony, but the 
most wonderful performing blind horse in the world. 
Billy is now nine years old, mahogany bay color, fourteen 
hands high, and weighs nearly 900 pounds. He is as above 
stated, totally blind, and has been so for four years. He 
does everything by word of command only, and not the 
least interesting peculiarity of his performance is the atten- 
tion with which he waits for and promptly obeys every 
command. He will run the ring, turning right or left, 
go lame, walk on his knees, kick on his knees, look for and 
find a handkerchief, jump clear of the ground and kick, 
walk on his hind feet around the ring, or turn right and 
left in circles while standing erect on his hind feet. He 
will sit down like a dog, turn right or left while sitting on 
his haunches. All this, and much more, he does in the 
promptest manner, at the word of command. He is 
acknowledged not only to excel all other horses, blind or 



254 



PROF. MAGNER S EDUCATED HORSES. 



not, by the difficulty and variety of his performances, but 
surpasses as well all horses known, by his wonderful perform- 
ances of squealing and laughing, at the word. of command. 
The sum of Seven Thousand Dollars has been offered and 
refused for this beautiful and wonderful animal. He is un- 
questionably, the rarest, finest, and most valuable perform- 
ing pony in this country, if not in the world; and the 
witnessing of his performances the most instructive and 
interesting novelties of the day. 




•roaacaac-sr- 

The best Trick Pony in the World. 

The nearest on the left is the Spotted Pony, Tommy. 
As his appearance shows, he is the smallest and most cun- 
ning of the group. He is eleven years old, weighs 720 
pounds, bright bay color with white spots, extending back 
on each side of his body, and is a perfect model in form. 
Tommy is the clown of the lot. He is in himself a whole 
show, and the amusement he excites by his unique per- 
formances is really side-splitting; it is not so much what he 



PROF. MAGNER'S EDUCATED HORSES. 255 

does as the way he acts out his performance that so 
intensely amuses. He is as apparently innocent and gentle 
as can be; even allowing a child to go under, around, or 
over him. Should a rider even fall under his feet, he will 
either carefully step over him or stand still until the rider 
gets up; yet in an instant by the merest signal, his whole 
nature seems to be changed to the character of a vicious, 
dangerous stallion, with ears back, mouth open, eyes flash- 
ing fire, and every hair on his body on end, he will clear 
the ring of all intruders. At such a time there are but few 
of the most courageous who will dare to enter the ring, so 
apparently dangerous does he appear; yet as quickly at 
command will he assume his former gentle appearance, and 
play with any one or go around the ring for presents. The 
sagacity he exhibits even in this is almost wonderful, for 
if given no attention he will pass by without apparently 
noticing a person, going directly to those of the sunniest 
nature by whom he delights being caressed, always showing 
preference for well dressed and good looking ladies, for 
whom he seems to have a great fondness, acknowledging a 
caress or a present with the politeness of a courtier, by 
a bow of the head. 

It is, however, in his great contests with riders that he 
shows the most wonderful sagacity and power, throwing or 
not a little boy easily and quietly as commanded, but send- 
ing the smartest and best riders flying at will from his back. 
It is in his great performance of "throwing the boys" that 
he brings down the house with almost insane applause. I 
have seen at such times the most habitually grave men and 
women laugh and scream with delight, until the tears 
coursed down their cheeks, and in many instances of per- 
sons lying down upon the seats, or rolling upon the 
ground, yielding in their paroxysm of excitement to the 
uncontrollable impulses which seized them. When the elo- 
quent preacher and senator from Ohio, Mr. Garfield, who, 
with his friends and faculties of the Hiram College, 
attended one of my exhibitions in that place; so great was 
his pleasure while witnessing this great performance of 
Tommy's, that he rolled, clapped his hands, and shouted 
with delight. 

The following from the Cleveland Leader, in speaking of 
Tommy's performance during one of my exhibitions in that 



256 prof, magner's educated horses. 

city, will better illustrate the excitement and interest which 
his performance excites : 

"But the most laughable scene took place when the spot- 
ted wild horse, Tommy, was introduced. He presented 
every appearance of a wild steed, and ran restively about 
with distended nostrils and fiery eye, his mane bristling 
like the quills of a fretful porcupine, but at the approach of 
his master he became as tame as a lamb. Every one was 
invited to try their equestrian skill on Tommy, and all who 
tried were thrown to the ground, tenderly, but in the 
twinkling of an eye. Mr. Magner offered $500 to any one 
who would ride Tommy one minute. Several tried, but 




Tommy, in his famous act of throwing the Boys. 

none were rewarded with success. One ambitious gentle- 
man threw off hat, coat and vest, and said he ' would be 
d— d if he didn't ride him.' Tommy was too much for 
him. He was thrown several times, and finally concluded 
that he had better let Tommy have his own way. 

Thus it is seen I not only give the most interesting exhi- 
bitions free under canvas, but being the author of my own 
work, and handling and controlling the wildest and most 
vicious horses daily in illustrating my system, and devoting 
too, my whole attention to this end, that I am inaugurating 
an era of interest in the study and kind treatment of the 
horse, which is in the extreme, commendable and valuable 



THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 



There have been so many who have travelled in the 
business of late years, who have claimed to be authors of 
a new system, &c., that a few words of explanation, in re- 
lation to the part I have taken and of my success in this 
field, become necessary as a matter of duty and justice 
to myself and the public. 

I have now been before the public over eighteen years, 
employed in imparting a knowledge of such principles of 
educating and managing horses as I found to be most 
simple and practical. I claimed and advertised a new 
system from the start. In the winter of 1863-64 I wrote 
and published in Utica, N.Y., at " The Herald " office, an 
exposition of my treatment, called "The New System," 
copyrighting the same under that title. 

Some time afterwards I sold to Mr. A. H. Rockwell, for 
three hundred dollars, the right to republish this work 
under his own name, a copy of the contract of sale of 
which I have still in my possession. 

Mr. Rockwell, in the revision of this book, implied 
having taught me, of having trained the horse I then 
owned, &c. ; when the fact was, I was over a year on the 
road before I met or heard of him. I had trained and 
exhibited this horse nearly two years before he saw him, 
and was in no way connected with him except in this 
business transaction. 

I also gave a gentleman named R. P. Hamilton the 
privilege of republishing one of the earlier editions of my 
book, which he did under his own name, a copy of which 
edition I have in my possession. 

In March, 1868, I started a resident of Batavia, N.Y., 
named O. S. Pratt, in the business, selling him two trained 
horses — one of them a gray trick-pony called Billy — 
and a fancy advertising wagon. At the same time I sold 
another gray trick-pony, named Tommy, to a gentleman 

257 



258 THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 

named Graves, a resident of Lockport, N.Y. This pony 
was afterwards purchased of Mr. Graves by the said Pratt, 
and is the same that has been used by him. 

This man Pratt, who had carried on previously a small 
grocery-store in Batavia as his sole business, and was so 
illiterate that he could not even write, started out, adver- 
tising himself as the great horse-tamer of the world. 
Adopting the tactics of the most presumptuous quack, 
he pushed himself into notice. This man, with others, 
worked upon the Wilkins horse referred to in Mr. 
Bonner's letter for a week, utterly failing to do any thing 
with him. He claimed that the horse could not be 
broken. I offered to forfeit $2,000 if I could not make 
this horse gentle to handle with entire safety in forty 
minutes. I did it in thirty minutes. This private experi- 
ment led to my giving a series of test experiments before 
a committee of leading horsemen in that city. With what 
success the reports which I here copy will show : — 

From the New York Sunday Democrat. 

On Friday evening Mr. D. Magner gave an exhibition, to which 
none but invited guests were admitted. Among the horse -fanciers 
present were Robert Bonner, Dan Mace, Ed. Wilkins, J. D. Walton, 
George Lewis. Jacob Creveling, Amos Little, Dave Bonner, W. S. 
Ridabock, R. J. Anderson, Arthur Gillender, Walter Briggs, W. Jack- 
son, Jo. Bennet, N. H. Leadbetter, Jacob Baulch, James Moffatt, Wil- 
liam Rutzer, Dr Ogle, Dr. Brighton of Boston, Dr. Lee, Henry Casey, 
J. C. Durant, Isaac Sonburg, Dr. O'Shea, Hamilton Busbey, William 
Watson of Westchester, with his two sons, William Apgar, C. Moran, 
jun., Dr. Beadle, James Morris, E. H. Freeman, and M. Bain. 

After exhibiting some extraordinary tricks by his trained horses, 
Mr. Magner requested them to choose from those present a committee 
to report on his system. 

The committee selected consisted of Messrs. Robert Bonner, chair- 
man, Charles Swift, jun., secretary, Dan Mace, Amos Little, Arthur 
Gillender, George Lewis, J. D. Walton, James Moffatt, W. W. Briggs, 
N. H. Leadbetter, and others. 

The committee having taken their seats, Mr. Magner, in a brief ad- 
dress, explained the main points of his treatment. . . . . In the 
course of his remarks he very justly stated that more men than horses 
require training. 

A notoriously vicious horse was then brought into the ring ; and in 
less than thirty minutes he was trotting in harness as gentle as though 
he had always been a family horse, and this, too, without throwing or 
harsh treatment. Mr. Bonner, turning to the committee, said, " Rarey 



THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 259 

taught us our A B C; but Magner teaches us how to put the letters together?'' 
The committee are to witness several more exhibitions before mak- 
ing their report ; though, without exception, they state that they are 
fully satisfied with what they have seen. 

At the close of the exhibition the following 

AUTOGRAPH LETTER FROM MR. BONNER 

was handed to the representative of this paper : — 

"Office of 'The Ledger,' 
"Mr. D. Magner. New York, Jan. 25, 1872. 

" Dear Sir, — From the conversations I have had with you, and 
from the satisfactory manner in which you handled Mr. Wilkins's 
horse to-day in my stable, I have no hesitation in saying that I con- 
sider you the most scientific and successful educator, or tamer, of 
vicious horses I have ever met. Mr. Wilkins's horse was a most 
vicious brute. He would kick with more spite and determination than 
any horse I ever saw ; and at the same time he would strike with his 
forward feet. Indeed, Mr. Wilkins himself told me that he was, to 
use his exact expression, ' the worst horse in New York.' 

" In less than an hour you succeeded in handling him as freely, and 
with as much apparent safety, as you would any ordinary familv horse. 

"I have myself handled Princess, the famous old competitor of 
Flora Temple, on your new system; and, although she was at one 
time so vicious as to be almost unmanageable, my youngest boy — a 
lad of fifteen — has, during the past week, been driving her daily in 
the Central Park. 

" All things considered, your treatment is, in my opinion, entirely 
new and reliable, as well as humane and practical. 

"Yours truly, "ROBERT BONNER." 

In a conversation subsequent to the exhibition, Mr. Bonner stated, 
that, if he could have made his letter any stronger, he would have 
done so. 

Committee Report. 

April 9, 1872. 

We, the committee appointed by the citizens and prominent horse- 
men of New York to investigate and report upon the merits of Mr. 
Magner's system of training and educating wild and vicious horses, 
respectfully report that we have exerted every effort in obtaining 
horses of bad character to. test the practicability of his treatment, and 
secured a thoroughbred mare, owned by L. C. Popham of No. 945 
Broadway. This mare was fourteen years old, and had resisted all 
efforts to control her in single harness ; would kick herself free from 
shafts, and run away at all hazards. Also, a thoroughbred gelding, 
sixteen years old, owned by H. L. Herbert of Red Bank, N.J. He 
would balk while riding, kicking and running away while in harness, 
and was so vicious that he could not be driven or controlled in har- 
ness ; was purchased by Mr. Herbert for $2,500; proved so worthless 
that he sold him for $150, and afterwards repurchased him for $25. 
Also, a fine Star mare, owned by R. L. Pell, Esq., of Fifth Avenue 
and Twenty -sixth Street ; would kick herself free in single harness, 



260 THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 

and would run away. This mare could not be driven single. These, 
with others, were handled in our presence, including a large number 
of prominent citizens and members of the press, all of whom were 
invited to witness the experiments proposed to be made before this 
committee. 

In eighteen minutes (without throwing or any cruelty) the Professor 
made the Herbert horse so docile, that he could be driven with the 
greatest freedom without breeching, demonstrating the most wonder- 
ful change in his character. The owner publicly stated the fact of his 
former vicious reputation and unmanageable habits. The Popham 
mare was driven with equal success in twenty-seven minutes, submit- 
ting to all kinds of handling, even from strangers. The Pell mare 
was next handled, and driven gently in ten minutes, and the other 
horses with the same marked success. 

We have carefully studied the merits of this treatment, and have 
no hesitation in saying that Prof. Magner is the most skilful and suc- 
cessful horse tamer and educator who has ever visited this city. His 
treatment reduces the subjection and education of horses to a definite 
and fixed science, and is in principle and effect entirely superior to 
any other ever brought to our notice, and inaugurates a new era in 
the subjection of horses. The great ease and certainty with which 
horses of extreme viciousness can be controlled by this treatment 
makes the knowledge of it indispensable to all interested in horses, 
particularly to farmers and those who raise colts, and induces this 
committee to recommend all who can to attend Prof. Magner's lec- 
tures, and obtain a copy of his book. 

We, the committee and members of Mr. Magner's class, would 
state that we have never given our indorsement to any other party 
travelling for this same purpose. 

Geo. Lewis (Proprietor Sale and Boarding Stable, Fiftieth Street). 
J. D. Dun walton (Proprietor Boarding and Sale Stable, Thirty- 
ninth Street). 
Dan Mace (Proprietor Sale Stable, Forty-ninth Street). 
W. W. Briggs (Proprietor Tattersall Stable, Seventh Avenue and 

Forty-second Street). 
Arthur Gillender. 
N. H. Leadbetter (Proprietor Livery and Sale Stables, Seventh 

Avenue and Forty -fifth Street.) 
James Moffat. ROBERT BONNER, Chairman. 

CHARLES SWIFT, Jun., Secretary. 

The following well-known gentlemen, with one hundred others, 
fully indorse Mr. Magner's system as the best and most humane they 
have ever witnessed : — 

Frank D. Curtis, Esq., Vice-President State Agricultural Society, 
Charlton, Saratoga Co., N.Y. 

David Bonner, Esq., brother of Robert Bonner. 

G. Chapman, Esq., inventor of Chapman's patent safety reins. 

E. H. Hathorn, proprietor boarding and sale stable, Thirty- 
eighth Street, New York. 



■ THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 261 

Ralph Ogle, V.S., 330 West Twenty-fifth Street, New York. 

L. H. Braily, V.S., chief veterinary surgeon U. S. cavalry. 

D. CoSTELLO, Esq., circus proprietor, with P. T. Barnum's show. 

J. E. Wilkins, owner of vicious horse mentioned in Mr. Bonner's 
letter. 

Budd Doble, driver of Goldsmith Maid, South Pennsylvania 
Square, Philadelphia, Pa. 

O. H. Hickok, driver of Lucy, St. Elmo, and Western Girl, Cole- 
man House, New York. 

Frank Leslie, Esq., publisher of Frank Leslie's weeklies, &c. 

James Harper, Esq., of Harper Bros., publishers. 

Rev. Dr. Field, editor " New-York Evangelist." 

Sidney E. Morse, Esq., publisher " New-York Observer." 

Rev. E. P. Roe, chaplain in Harris's light cavalry, now of Highland 
Falls, N.Y. 

Buffalo (N.Y.) Class. 

The Buffalo, N.Y., Class, represented by the following well-known 
citizens, George W. Tifft, Esq., Judge Masten, Major Dickey, 
C. J. Hamlin, Esq., and F. W. Tracy, Esq., unanimously resolved, 
that " we commend Prof. Magner to our friends as a reformer of more 
than ordinary usefulness ; that his theory of governing and educating 
horses is the most practical, humane, and valuable in its results we 
have ever witnessed ; and can be learned and practised by any one of 
ordinary intelligence." 

Cleveland (O.) Class. 

At the close of the last lecture of his course in Cleveland, the fol- 
lowing resolution was moved by Hon. Silas Merchant (President of the 
City Council), which was carried by acclamation of the entire class, 
which comprised one thousand leading citizens. 

Resolved, That we, as members of Prof. Magner's class in this city, 
deem it but a just recognition of his skill and success in teaching us his 
system of educating horses, which we regard as the best ever shown 
us ; and for his gentlemanly demeanor ; that we are fully satisfied with 
his instructions, hereby indorse him and his system of educating and 
treating horses, to our friends and the public. 

From the Toledo (O.) Commercial. 

Monday, the last lesson of Prof. Magner to his class in Toledo was 
given. His success here has been unprecedented, and his teachings 
unparalleled in their line. What the members of the class have learned 
could not be bought of them for ten times the sum paid by them for 
the instruction. He goes to Adrian, Mich., from here; and we 
bespeak for him there a hearty welcome and the usual success attend- 
ing his efforts. The Professor is a man of his word, professing no 
more than he performs, and doing good wherever he goes. In his 
teachings he not only learns his scholars, but benefits the horses, by 
introducing a more humane and gentle course of treatment, and there- 
fore merits the name of benefactor to the brute race, or a niche beside 
the renowned Bergh. We congratulate the Adrianites on their acqui- 
sition. 



262 THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 

From the Jackson (Mich.) Patriot. 

Prof. Magner gave his last exhibition and lecture in this city on Sat- 
urday afternoon last, and, as usual, a large number were in attendance 
at the opening exhibition, and at least two hundred members of his 
class were present to listen to the closing lecture, and witness some of 
his wonderful feats of subduing and managing horses. At the close of 
the lecture, one of the members of the class offered the following reso- 
lution, which was received with applause, and adopted without a dis- 
senting voice : — 

Resolved, That we, the members of Prof. Magner's class, hereby 
express to him our high appreciation of his instructions in his system 
for the reform and elevation of horses, which, in our estimation, is 
incomparably superior to any system ever brought before the public. 
By this system the management of the horse is reduced to a definite 
and exact science, and we desire most heartily to commend Prof. Mag- 
ner to the confidence of the public, and to express to him personally 
our thanks for his patience, his thoroughness, and his gentlemanly bear- 
ing, while engaged in his profession in this city. 

From the Adrian "Weekly Times. 

During the present week, Prof. Magner, the celebrated horse tamer 
and educator, has conducted his classes in this city. He has created a 
genuine furore among all interested in horses in this city; and his 
reputation has extended to a circuit of country, and persons have 
attended his classes from, over twenty miles distant. He has succeeded 
in subduing and rendering perfectly tractable some horses which have 
resisted all previous efforts of horse-breakers and others to reduce 
them to submission ; and his wonderful power over horses excites the 
most astonishment from those the best posted in equine care and 
treatment, and the exhibitions of the trained stud of horses which he 
owns and carries with him are superior in interest to the choicest 
features of the best circus travelling. In every place he has been, the 
Professor has received the most emphatic and cordial indorsements. 

From the Michigan Horse Breeders' Association of Jackson, 

Mich., May 6, 1871. 
We, the undersigned officers and members of the Michigan Horse 
Breeders' Association, and citizens of Jackson, have attended Prof. 
Magner's lectures on the education of horses while in this city, and 
indorse him to the people of the State as a reformer of great merit. 

His treatment reduces the education of horses to a definite and fixed 
science, insuring not only the most humane, but the most wonderful 
results in the control of wild and vicious horses. We have witnessed 
the effect of his treatment in the control of a large number of vicious 
horses, and have no hesitation in saying his system is the best in the 
world. S. S. VAUGHN, President. 

C. C. TURNER. J. A. ROBINSON, Secretary. 

DAN. B. HIBBERD, GEO. SHERWOOD, Treasurer. 

From the Turf, Field, and Farm. 
We have one man who professes horse-taming, and who at the same 



THE NEW SYSTEM OF EDUCATING HORSES. 263 

time rises above the vulgar tricks of the charlatan. His name is Mag- 
ner. He seems to have given honest study to his art, and to have 
brought a high degree of intelligence to the study. He regards the 
horse not as a dull, stupid piece of clay, but as an animal able to draw 
deductions, and to be moulded by firmness and kindness. His best 
subjects are those which the charlatans pronounce the worst. His sys- 
tem is based upon logic, such a system as is worthy of a controlling 
power. Mr. Magner can cure the very worst cases. We honestly believe 
that there is not a horse in the world which he cannot make gentle and 
obedient. 

" The following flattering notices, taken from a large number, 
are included, as a further proof of the superiority and value of 
my system. 

.Letter from Hiram Buck to Robert Bonner. 

Crown-Point Centre, April 4, 1877. 
My Dear Sir, — I enclose a slip from one of Mr. Magner's "Ad- 
vance Circular " papers, purporting to be a copy of a letter over your 
signature. As the world is full of humbugs, and some bold ones, I 
write, in my own and several of my neighbors' behalf, to ascertain if 
the letter is genuine, and you really find Magner's system original and 
meritorious. One reason of our asking this favor is, in an article from 
" Up North " (correspondent in " The Argus ") Mr. Magner is spoken 
of in disparaging terms. Prof. Magner has advertised to be at Crown 
Point in a few days ; and should you have the kindness to favor us 
with a reply, please do so soon, as it will make a difference with some 
about attending his school. Yours very truly, HIRAM BUCK. 

Autograph Letter from Robert Bonner in Answer to Hiram Buck's 
Letter. 

Dear Sir, — Mr. Magner understands his business better than any 
living man. My letter, to which you refer, is genuine. He is not a 
humbug : on the contrary, I think, he has no equal living as a horse- 
tamer. If you know of any other person who understands how to 
subdue vicious horses better than Mr. Magner, I will thank you to 
send him to me. Yours truly, ROBERT BONNER. 

Autograph Letter from Bev. W. H. H. Murray. 

The Murray Stock Farm, Guilford, Conn., Sept. 1, 1877. 
I fully concur in what Mr. Bonner has said. Mr. Magner is a bene- 
factor in the truest sense of that word. His knowledge of the horse 
is thorough, and his ability to impart it unusual. The horse to-day is 
man's most useful servant. How to make him a safe and reliable ser- 
vant easily and quickly, Mr. Magner can teach people. I know him 
and his methods and mannerism of teaching, and cordially commend 
him to popular favor. Every man who owns or drives a horse should 
be sure to receive Mr. Magner's instruction. I cordially commend 
Mr. Magner to all acquaintances of mine who love or own horses 
everywhere. They will find him all his indorsements say he is. 

W. H. H. MURRAY. 



TEACHING TRICKS. 



Do not hurry a horse too fast in his training. If you 
undertake to teach too much, or too fast in the start, or 
indeed at any time, you only confuse or discourage. Do 
only so much as the horse can comprehend, and make daily 
progress. 

TEACHING TO FOLLOW. 

If it is desired to simply teach the horse to follow prompt- 
ly with halter or bridle on, apply the war bridle (small 
loop); when he comes round promptly, stand off a short 
distance and say, " Come here, sir." If he d ss not come 
to you, give a sharp pull, gradually changing positions and 
going a little farther. If he comes to you promptly, caress 
him; if not, pull sharply, repeating in this waj until you 
can make him come to you promptly, in any direction, at 
the word. 

TO MAKE FOLLOW WITH THE WHIP. 

The simplest and easiest way of doing this, is to work up 
sharply with the war bridle, and when the horse comes to 
you promptly, take a short, blunt whip, step up to the 
shoulder, and while holding the bridle loosely in the left 
hand, pass the whip gently over the shoulder, and tap 
lightly with the end on the off side of the head. This will 
annoy the horse and cause him to move the head a little 
from it, toward you; instantly stop and caress, then repeat 
the tapping again; should he attempt to run from you, 
hold him by the bridle. Repeat in this way until the horse 
will step toward you promptly. Then touch the whip over 
the hips and say, "Come, sir." If he comes up to you, or 
shows the least disposition to do so, caress, and so continue 
until he will come up promptly. Now step a little sidewise 
and ahead and say, " Come, sir." If he should step after 
264 



TEACHING TRICKS. 265 

you, caress, if not, touch the lash over the hips. In a short 
time the horse will learn to step to you, and follow promptly 
When he will do this, stand him in a corner of the room, 
stand a little in front of him and touch him lightly with the 
whip on the fore-legs and say, " Come here, sir." At the 
least intimation of coming, stop and caress. Then repeat, 
touching with the whip. If he moves to you a little, stop 
and caress, and in this way repeat until he will come to you 
promptly. Then get a little farther from him and repeat in 
the same manner until he will learn to hurry up to you, to 
get away from the whip. Should he bolt away, put on the 
bridle, and hold the end in the left hand. You can now 
hold him by the bridle when he attempts to run, until he 
finds he cannot get away, and will come up promptly, 

This lesson should be made very thorough before there is 
an attempt to take the horse out of doors, and then in a 
small yard. If this is not convenient, put on the bridle, 
having good length of cord, and hold in the left hand 
loosely. 

If the horse is of a bad character, the following method 
may be used : Turn the horse into a room or small yard well 
enclosed. Provide yourself with a good bow whip. The 
horse will feel uneasy and look around at you, and then 
perhaps for some place by which to escape. Walk up to 
him, and as he runs into a corner apply the lash sharply 
under his flanks, following him up, making the whip sting 
keenly around the hind legs. When he stops or turns his 
head toward you, stop instantly, reach out the hand, at the 
same time approaching gently. Should he run or turn 
around to kick, whip instantly as before, and so continue 
until you can approach and caress the head and neck a little. 
Then say, "Come, sir," at the same time touching the 
whip lightly over the hips. If he comes, or shows the least 
disposition to do so, caress and speak encouragingly. If 
he runs, whip as before, and so repeat until the horse will 
come up promptly when touched by the whip. 

As the object is to make the horse honest in following, 
it is necessary to make him feel that you whip him only for 
resistance, encouraging and flattering for every intimation 
of obedience, until he realizes his safety from the whip to 
be in coming to you. 



266 TEACHING TRICKS. 

TO LIE DOWN. 

Tie the bridle reins into a knot back of the neck. Throw 
your strap over the back, under the body, and tie to the 
near foot, below the fetlock. Now pass the right hand well 
over the back and take a short hold of the strap. Cause 
the horse to step toward you and pull the foot up. Then 
pass the left hand around the reins and pull back and down 
upon them in such a manner as to turn the head a little to 
the off-side, at the same time pulling down steadily but 
firmly on the strap over the back with the right hand. As 
the horse goes down, gradually pull the near rein, so as to 
bring the head to the left, at the same time pressing down 
and from you firmly with the right, until the horse will lie 
down. Pass the end of the strap now through the ring of 
the bit and draw through gently, step over the neck, and as 
the horse attempts to get up, pull him back, until he lies 
quiet. Rub and caress him, and after lying a few minutes, 
say, "Get up, sir." Repeat in this way for a few times 
until the horse will lie down readily. Then while holding 
him on or near the knee with the strap, hit him on the skin 
of the other with a little whip, until he will bring it under 
and lie down. After awhile he can be made to come on 
his knees and lie down by simply pulling the head down a 
little and hitting the skins with the whip, at the same time 
saying, "Lie down, sir," repeating until the horse will lie 
down to the motion of the whip. This is about the easiest 
and most practical way of teaching a horse to lie down. 

TO SIT DP. 

When the horse will lie down promptly, put on him a 
common collar, and while being down take two pieces of 
rope, or anything suitable, about ten feet each in length. 
Tie the ends around the hind feet, carry them forward be- 
tween the fore legs and bring them once around the collar. 

Now step on his tail, take the bridle reins in the right 
hand, while you hold the ends of the ropes firmly in the 
left. Give a little jerk on the reins and say, " Get up, sir." 
When the horse throws out the forward feet and springs to 
raise himself on the hind feet, he finds himself unable to 
complete the effort, on account of the hind feet being tied 



TEACHING TRICKS. 267 

forward under him, and so he brings himself in a sitting 
position. Instantly step forward, holding the ropes firmly, 
rub and caress the head and neck a little for a few seconds, 
then as you see the effort to keep up becoming tiresome, let 
loose and say, " Get up, sir." By repeating in this way a 
few times the horse will soon learn to sit up when com- 
manded without being tied. 

TO MAKE A BOW. 

Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and 
fore-finger, stand before, but a little to the left, of your 
horse, and prick him on the breast lightly. This produces 
the sensation of a fly biting, to relieve which he will bring 
down his head, which you will accept as yes, and reward 
for by caressing and feeding as before. Then repeat, and 
so continue until he will bring his head down the moment 
he sees the least motion of the hand toward his breast, or 
you can substitute some signal which he will understand 
readily. 

TO SAY NO. 

Stand near the left shoulder, holding the pin in your 
hand, with which prick him lightly on the withers, which 
will cause him to shake his head. You then caress as 
before, and so repeating, until he will shake his head at the 
least indication of touching him with the pin ; you can 
train your horse so nicely in this way in a short time as to 
cause him to shake his head or bow by merely turning the 
hand a little, or moving it slightly toward him. 

TO KISS YOU. 

Teach him first to take a piece of apple out of your 
hand. Then gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, 
at each repetition, until you require him to take it from 
your mouth, holding it with the hand, telling him at the 
same time to kiss you. He will soon learn to reach his nose 
up to your mouth ; first to get the apple, but finally, because 
commanded to do so. Simply repeat until the horse under- 
stands the trick thoroughly. 



268 TEACHING TRICKS. 

TEACHING A HORSE TO DANCE. 

Put on the war bridle; hold the cord some four or fi\e 
feet from the horse's head, and with a whalebone whip tap 
him on the shin or ankle until he lifts his foot, then caress 
him, and do the same with the other, making him raise 
first one foot, then the other, then stop and caress. Next, 
make him raise them several times, until he moves his 
whole body by the motion of the whip to the time of 
music. Caress and encourage frequently. 

TEACHING A HORSE TO WALTZ. 

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his 
chest and fasten the bridle-reins to it, the left rein much 
the tightest, bringing his head well around to the left side. 
Then make him move forward, when he follows his head, 
and every time as he is turning his head from you give him 
a sharp cut with the whip, which will make him jump round 
quickly until his head comes around to you again. Then 
you should caress and encourage him by talking kindly, pat- 
ting and feeding him. He will then be slower to move his 
head from you, but you must continue with the whip every 
time the horse's hind parts are toward you and his head 
from you, caressing every few minutes until he understands 
to move at the motion of the whip. Patient and careful 
practice in this way will make your horse prompt and grace- 
ful in his movements. 



INDEX, 



Backing 48,98 

Balking 81-86 

Bitting, 43 

Biting, 102 

Breeding 127 

Bleeding 225 

Bruises 216, 234 

Big Leg 234 

Botts 242 

Caustics 222, 244 

Canker 221 

Cold or Catarrh . . . . .183 
Coffin-Joint Lameness . . 205 

Curbs 205,238 

Corns 209 

Colt Training 33 

Cuts and Wounds, 

214, 215, 231, 236, 240 
Condition Powders . . . 213 

Contraction 249 

Colic 173, 176, 246 

Cough 224,237 

Callouses, To remove . . 238 

Cracked Heels 219 

Cribbing 109 

Callendula 231 

Diuretic Drops 224 

Diseases and their Treatment 170 

Distemper 184 

Digestive Ointment . 214, 215 

Farcy 223, 230 

Fever Medicine . . . 180, 227 

Fear of Objects 52 

Foot-strap 74 

Four-King Bit 107 

Fistula, or Poll Evil ... 223 

Fits, Cure of 238 

Feeding 134, 251 



Getting Cast in Stall 



111 



Heaves 



191 



Indolent Ulcers ... 231, 247 
Inflammation of Lungs, Pleu- 
risy, &c 177 

Inflammation of Bowels . 285 
" of Brain, or Staggers, 

188, 244 
" of Bladder . 188, 227 
" of Kidneys ... 186 
" of Eyes . . 213, 237, 244 

Jumping out of Shafts . . 107 
" over Fences. . . 115 

Kicking in Harness ... 64 

" while Harnessing . 77 

" " Grooming . 77 

" Shoeing . . 78 

" in Stall 113 

" Cows 39 

" and Running Away 72 

Laminitis, or Founder, 189, 231 

Lameness in the Shoulder . 208 
Liniment for Sore Weak 

Feet 165 

Lice, To kill 222 

Large Crupper ..... 69 

Locked Jaw 193 

Mange 227 

Magic Healing Preparation, 218 
Magic Liniment . . . 217, 240 

Nasal Gleet 222 

Nail in the Foot and Prick- 
ing 210, 245, 208 

Overdraw Check .... 70 

Pulling on one Rein ... 92 
Pulling on the Halter . . 99 

269 



270 



INDEX. 



Pulling or Lugging on Bit . 107 

Pulse 224 

Putting Tongue out of Mouth, 111 

Pawing in Stall 113 

Poll Evil 194, 243 

Physicking 227 

Quarter Crack . . . 158, 251 
Quitter 221 

Punning Back 90 

Running Away 91 

Roaring,— Whistling. . . 193 

Ringbone 196 

Rheumatism . 242, 243, 227, 249 

Shoeing 124,249 

Sore Mouth . . . . . .242 

Strangles 183 

Sweeny 195 



Spavins, Splints,&c, 196, 238, 249 
Sprain of Back Sinews . . 205 
Sprains and Bruises . 216, 249 

Swelling of Leg 218 

Scratches and Grease Heel, 

220, 219, 249 
Scours or Purging .... 211 

To recruit a Horse out of 

Sorts 219 

Trotting , . 123 

Thrush 218 

"Watering Horses .... 137 

Weak Back 223 

Weak Heels ...... 163 

Whistling 235 

Worms 212,234 

Wounds and Cuts, 

214, 215, 231, 236, 238, 240 
















% * 8 
















% & 

V V 












